What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

Ever grown in Native soil?

bigshrimp

Well-known member
Veteran
If your working with native soil (unammended/unfertilized/no irrigation), you will do best putting lots of plants out late season.

This is going to keep them small and they will develop properly. Let them get too big in a situation without proper nutrients and water availability your going to get some really shitty nuggets.
 
Last edited:

budsnblunts

Well-known member
Veteran
Gonna grow them in rows, fertigated, in a field, with lots and lots of attention


I done a patch that I ran rows in, they have been booming. I dug down to the clay, upside down triangle. Then I dumped 20 litres of crystal rain in each row. Just a little stretch happening at the moment but all looks well.
 

Tiami

Member
The field mice chew the stalks all the way through. Was thinking about getting some feral cats to catch the mice and a dog to dig up the gophers.

maybe it was rats. put the chicken wire around a plant with top of it closed with same wire. taller it is the better. I couldn't grow anything without chicken wire because of rats. wire holes need to be small enough so a rat can't enter and big enough so the branches can grow through it. rats are not interested in branches most of the time. not sure if this can work for much smaller mice.
 

Tiami

Member
If your working with native soil (unammended/unfertilized/no irrigation), you will do best putting lots of plants out late season.

This is going to keep them small and they will develop properly. Let them get too big in a situation without proper nutrients and water availability your going to get some really shitty nuggets.

totally agree with late planting in drought places.

what do you consider optimal time for germing seeds? june, july?
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
What you haveta be mindful of when growin rowcrops , especially with dope cultivars that`ve not been tested to know where they end up sideways as well as vertical by end of stretch , is what to do once they do overcrowd each other and end up like rows of hashplants in Morocco and Afghanistan......IOW.....

Even in rows proper spacing should be first and foremost in anticipation of how close they`ll grow next to each other by end of stretch without having to pull every other plant to provide proper airflow and light penetration till Harvey with increased plant numbers and smaller plants.....plus....

Growing directly in the ground leaves you wide open for moles and gophers to ransack and ruin full crops unbeknownst and underneath.....but...

Plenty of ways to prevent by being proactive with any of several different methods , or even blowin their ass up if they become too much of a problem....regardless....

Good luck , and with your knowledge and experience there`s no doubt this could get epic with a lil planning and attention to detail.....I`ll be over here on my bucket watching and waiting for the first glimpse of 1000`s of lbs in 1 setup growin like corn....:biggrin:....

Peace....DHF....:ying:....
 

Bradley_Danks

Active member
Veteran
maybe it was rats. put the chicken wire around a plant with top of it closed with same wire. taller it is the better. I couldn't grow anything without chicken wire because of rats. wire holes need to be small enough so a rat can't enter and big enough so the branches can grow through it. rats are not interested in branches most of the time. not sure if this can work for much smaller mice.

Nope, they are field mice. I tried all types of chicken wire and others. Even buried it a few inches below the dirt. The mice would burrow under the wire... Then they would proceed to gnaw on the stalks til the plants died.

I was think about putting down some 15x15 foot squares of chicken wire and putting 1000 gallons of native soil on top of it and folding the sides of the wire up so nothing can get through. It would be some caged in mounds.
 

Henrik

Member
Thought about direct seeding them? as seed plants are more vigorous then a cloned plant, direct seeded planst are often more vigorous then planted ones as I see it. As Julian talked about the "Grab" these are set from the start.


These are direct seeded in native soil, broadcasted, only amended with chicken manure and bonemeal I think tho week before the sow date. sowed and harvested, no attention. With some more attention a waaay different result. hehe , been there done that to, sorry no pic....
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=236382
 

coldcanna

Active member
Veteran
I did this last year and worked great for me. Take a pick ax and till up a circle that's a few feet across and a foot or so deep. Break up any roots and remove big rocks. I had some old promix on hand to add aeration but don't think that makes much of a difference. The pros are that once roots were established they didn't require much supplemental irrigation, when potted plants near them started to get the thirsty droop on hot dry days the buried plants always seemed to stay hydrated from ground water. They grew enormous. I would say make sure each plant has an 8x8 square of space to grow and maintain air flow... i had to cage one up last minute and it led to rot and mildew problems. The down side to putting them in the ground is that it's hard to gauge how much they were getting fed.

We had a cat at the time and he was frequently out in the patch, that and our dogs run free most of the day, never had any issues with rodents. Maybe you look at getting a couple outside cats for your space?
 

budsnblunts

Well-known member
Veteran
I know there are scent deterrents out there that are well worth the money. In the end you do pay for quality, Do hair/fur goes a far way to. They have been a lot of small pest's worst nightmares for thousands of years. They know to keep clear of the dogs patches.
 

iTarzan

Well-known member
Veteran
BReal in post #5 pic 5 that purpling is from phosphorous being locked out from cold root temps. Put down some triple phosphate and mulch around the base. You can foliar feed with some flower ferts with high P. But only 1/4 strength.
 

orechron

Member
Yes and no. Plant count is no longer a limiting factor!! The only constraints are Flowering canopy limits. So not interested in giant hard to manage bushes, a butt-load of man sized plants I think will be mo betta

If plant count is unlimited I'd even go with 2-3 foot plants. What will happen sometimes is that despite getting native soil well amended in the top foot or so, later in the season the plants will start mining the subsoil which is often acidic/cation deficient. Thats bad news in bloom when plants need a bunch of Calcium. Further more you can amend the top foot then plow or rake up mounds in long rows like tomatoes are often grown. This will get you an extra foot for the root zone and its easier to irrigate.

Sounds good.... I can't see you having a problem...Providing you know what strains will grow well in your area....You should do well.

In 2014 there was a thread Called Ceps outdoor odyssey, I'm sure he was growing in native soil and was very particular in regard to testing his soil and basically everything else regarding his grow....

He's not a member anymore, but if you do a search you should find his thread 20 odd pages back...It's worth a look.

I chose to delete my account because I'm no longer doing outdoor grows like that and the people I rented land from were borderline retarded. It was all in native soil that got better every year composition wise. You may run into hemp canker like I did but like other field crops you have to rotate. I still have a few pics from the last season:

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php


BReal in post #5 pic 5 that purpling is from phosphorous being locked out from cold root temps. Put down some triple phosphate and mulch around the base. You can foliar feed with some flower ferts with high P. But only 1/4 strength.

If you do use P fertilizer you can get away with really dilute amounts at every application. Most of it gets tied up with Calcium rather than used by the plant. Or you can go the mycorrhizal route. Chances are the soil already has tons of P from compost applications and any more will just inhibit micronutrient uptake. Like others have said, a test will determine this.
 

4grow

Member
I moved to the mountains and grow in forest soils by using good compost, dry fertilizers, myco, a bit of lime/wood ash and I try and blend in lots of humus, composted pine cones, manures and things from the surrounding area. I feel like the plants are very adaptable to different environments and it can do interesting things to them. I try to avoid bloodmeal due to bears and coyotes and I have to spray urine regularly to keep the cervids away.

I have a few years under my belt now and the biggest help I've found has been proper genetics. Start with those and you can nearly just stick it in the ground, keep it watered, and be happy with what you end up with. I've been burned the most by not starting there. It's really hard to mess up organics, just aim to be as diverse as possible with your inputs. :)

4g
 

HellaFella420

Active member
Veteran
If plant count is unlimited I'd even go with 2-3 foot plants. What will happen sometimes is that despite getting native soil well amended in the top foot or so, later in the season the plants will start mining the subsoil which is often acidic/cation deficient. Thats bad news in bloom when plants need a bunch of Calcium. Further more you can amend the top foot then plow or rake up mounds in long rows like tomatoes are often grown. This will get you an extra foot for the root zone and its easier to irrigate.

Heh, good thinkin'! This was pretty much my exact plan. Mebbe 4-5 feet tall though. And there is an implement on the farm that makes the tilled and formed row/mound things like you see in strawberry fields. So rows of tilled, raised beds with a nice drainage rise and beautiful fluffy black dirt!
 
B

BAKED_BEANZ

^^ you,ll kill it with that plan . young plants have great vigour and also stem strength . no cages ect . have you thought about security ? word may get around even at a private location . wondering teenagers ect .

whats the plan , seeds or clones ? either way your going to need to plan that in advance . be a good thread to put up when you start . i,ll grab a seat for sure
 

HellaFella420

Active member
Veteran
^^ you,ll kill it with that plan . young plants have great vigor and also stem strength . no cages ect . have you thought about security ? word may get around even at a private location . wondering teenagers ect .

whats the plan , seeds or clones ? either way your going to need to plan that in advance . be a good thread to put up when you start . i,ll grab a seat for sure

If everything comes to fruition, this will be a an Oregon based licensed recreational facility. A large component of the application process is security intensive. This included a large, possibly multilayered privacy fence. Security system, motion detectors, IR all-weather cameras, etc. There will be so much ganja, that it would take all night and multiple dump trucks with a crew of like 20 people to take anything worthwhile.

Seeds and clones. Mostly clones, but there are some homebrew sees that will be available to me, I hope to do some hunting and find a pheno or two that might ultimately wide up as our "house brand" or something to that effect.
 
B

BAKED_BEANZ

sounds wicked , you got to do a thread if it go,s ahead . be a blast , this is the action i like .

give me this any day over 24 X 10 pound plants in cali . have i missed the total numbers your allowed ? . :)

security wise : dogs too lol hahaa seems you got everything else sorted .
 
Last edited:
Top