Electrician Help Needed $100 reward

[sneakyninja]

Having an out of town electrician build the sub panel so I won't have to worry about that part, just have to screw it onto the wall, run the wire into there and hook it up following his instructions on that.

My electrical meter does have a little ring lock on it, so I assume I need to call them unless you guys can tell me how to disable the power another way? Please don't suggest doing it with the power live because I'm not comfortable doing that for obvious reasons.

Waiting on my camera to be dropped off soon then I'll have pictures of what you guys wanted.

Already figured out how/where to run the wire once I get it out the main breaker, the room is right above so I'm gonna run a completely vertical run.

Gotcha about weeding out the waste of time people too, I think I've read almost every thread in Indoor Hydro, Grow Equipment, Main Grow forum and Security and there're plenty of them out there.

The intermatic t104 showed up as a 40amp 24 hour pool pump style timer so I can't imagine thats correct.

Here's a link to all the conduit lowes hardware sells. Could someone please give me a link to what wire I'm going to want to buy from Lowes so that I can just go in with the model # and ask for it.


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?acti...7294&category=Conduit+&+Fittings&N=4294948809

I'm deffinitely running A/C, consuming power from this circuit will be:

18,500 BTU A/C (240, 8.3A)
6 x 600w Digital Lights (240, 16.2A)
5 wall mount oscillating fans
Santa Fe Dehuey (thanks IC for that suggestion) (120, 6.8A)
2 Ecosub 420 Water pumps (7 amp draw a piece) (120, 14A)
Air pump (120)
3 12" vortex's and 1 8" vortex (120, 11.4A)

Actually now that I add those numbers up again I'd rather go 80 amps just for safety and to follow the 75% rule.

 

[PharmaCan]

SN - You can turn "most" of the power in your main off with the main breaker, but one side of the main breaker is still going to be hot. That may present a problem, it may not. Better to have the locking ring removed, just in case.

Now is not the time to be buying materials. The wire you want is #4AWG, but you need to know the correct length.

PC

 

[gdawg]

okay bro good deal on the board. ya swappin the breaker is easy but droppin that new wire in the panel is the sketchy part. call the power company tell em you gotta electrian doin some work and he needs the meter pulled for 3 hrs. schedule that shit and have your story right but he prolly aint gonna say shit and leave. there is no other way to do it unless you wanna hook it up hot(which really is easy and youll realize that after you do it un-hot)or wait for a lightning storm to knock the power out..... sounds like you got it whoopd bro throw some op pics up ina couple weeks and your buddys board skills

 

[ben ttech]

the distance to your subpanel as measure in wire length is part of the equation when sizing wire... but for short distances its more forgiving...


that #4 wire sounds oversized to me... [ not now that i see you back up to 80 amps... ]




btw...
if your main service entrance has a master breaker which deenergizes the bars your breakers snap onto... you dont need to involve the power company... thats more than adaquate safety for an electrician to proceed with a subpanel hookup...

as was covered i notice...



there are lots of rules and proceedures regarding running the wires...
soas to prevent their damage in the process of instalation and to best ensure their longevity once in place...

will this line be something you want to be able to remove easily in the future???
or are you opening up the walls to make it a permenant and correctly installed line?

 

[ben ttech]

Now is not the time to be buying materials. The wire you want is #4AWG, but you need to know the correct length.

PC

always add additional length to what you assume your going to need...
particularly IF your buying your wire before youve exposed the entirely pathway you intend to run it...

btw... is #4 wire available as romex in a cable?
if not... you will have to run a conduit for it i believe...

 

[yamaha_1fan]

always add additional length to what you assume your going to need...
particularly IF your buying your wire before youve exposed the entirely pathway you intend to run it...

btw... is #4 wire available as romex in a cable?
if not... you will have to run a conduit for it i believe...

My main feed line (200 amp service, wire # unknown) runs through the basement w/o any conduit. Its one bundle, like romex.

 

[ben ttech]

dont see that around here...

they make us run main feeds in steel pipe from weather head to service panel here...
or they come up in schedule 80 pvc from underground in residential...

 

[gdawg]

dude hes not havin it inspected im sure. yama i know the wire you're talkin bout. gotta thick black sleeve and sometimes has a string to split it. dependin on legnth of run which he said was right above the panel 20'? i thinkin #6, that #4 is goona be a bitch to work with. but his sparky buddy will tell him the specs im sure. peace you guys

 

[og dmc]

200- 300 my ass. I just had a 50 amp sub instaled for alot more than that. I bought the wire 100 feet #6 ( 3 legs) wire from lowes and a panel for $500. After I paid for labor it was more than $1200 and these guys had to work their asses off.

 

[sneakyninja]

Gonna open up the wall and install it. Definitely not having this inspected but I still want to do it properly, as long as its sufficiently safe I'm fine with whatever is easiest. Sorry about still no pictures I've been really busy, ill try to have them up tomorrow.

 

[green_grow]

"The intermatic t104 showed up as a 40amp 24 hour pool pump style timer so I can't imagine thats correct..."

yes, this is the timer that you want. it's a heavy-duty mechanical timer. nice unit.

 

[gdawg]

bro hes wantin to run 80 amps...i would suggest 2 of those timers and stagger your lights (on/off) a little. but hes not buildin the board remember

 

[PharmaCan]

200- 300 my ass. I just had a 50 amp sub instaled for alot more than that. I bought the wire 100 feet #6 ( 3 legs) wire from lowes and a panel for $500. After I paid for labor it was more than $1200 and these guys had to work their asses off.

Apples to oranges. This is a completely different installation. The run here is about 10' and sneakyninja is going to do all the drywall work. The hardest part of this job is going to be getting the sawdust out from the back of your shirt after drilling the hole thru the plate. This is a two-hour job, tops.

PC

 

[Shcrews]

wow cool i will be doing this soon too

Good Luck ninja

 

[og dmc]

Apples to oranges. This is a completely different installation. The run here is about 10' and sneakyninja is going to do all the drywall work. The hardest part of this job is going to be getting the sawdust out from the back of your shirt after drilling the hole thru the plate. This is a two-hour job, tops.

PC

Cool , I forgot to mention my house sux.

 

[VenturaHwy]

I am an electrician, not residential but commercial - also rusty because of disabilities. Since you already are having the sub panel made you probably won't need my suggestion. What I did was simply run two 30 amp circuits from the main panel over to my room - each circuit went to a Dayton or Intermatic timer, the kind you use for water heaters. I had two 4 square metal boxes attached to one timer and just one box on the other. An offset nipple is used to connect them. The boxes have two recepticles each with a raised cover. On the timer with two boxes - one of the boxes is hot all the time, the other is controlled by the timer. Actually the no. 10 romex is run to the boxes I believe and then fed up to the timers.

Very simple and easy to do, and yes all you do is turn off the main breaker, electricians hardly ever do that even - if you start messing with the cities meter that will draw attention to what you are doing. . .

Deep 4 square boxes give you more room to work.

 

[ben ttech]

offset nipple...

http://www.espelectrical.com/files/storeimages/ON394X.jpg

 

[VenturaHwy]

offset nipple...

http://www.espelectrical.com/files/storeimages/ON394X.jpg

Perfect -

 

[Danksta408]

Well, according to my knowledge, for a 60 amp breaker: #3 Type UF cable if using copper...........If aluminum, #2 Type UF cable..........FYI there is no positive, negative, nuetral, ground.........It's 2 ungrounded hots (2 phase), grounded conductor (neutral), and your grounding conductor

For 80 amps:#1 UF copper and 1/0 UF for aluminum

Don't use aluminum.........It's cheaper yes, but doesn't conduct electricity as well as copper, the wire diameter is bigger and heavier, and it oxidizes bad

 

[sneakyninja]

Sorry about the delay on the pictures, unexpected business trip came up.


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