Electrical- Need help wiring my shed

[GreenManDan]

Sorry bro, cant find where the separate neutral bar is. I included a photo of my box. The metal strip where the grounds and neutrals attach is all one strip with the green bolt at the top and a large lug where a thick wire could be attached.

 

[cocktail frank]

you can purchase a ground bar for that panel.
being it is a MAIN BREAKER panel, it didnt need a seperate ground bar.
but it will in your instance.
the bar goes where those raised tips are on the left and right sides. there are tapped holes vertically by those tips where you screw the bar in.

or, if your not running a neutral, you can use the neutral bars just the same. i'm sure the panel came with a bonding screw. should be a green screw that runs thru the neutral bar and bonds to the casing on the panel box.
if you plan on running 120v for anything else in this shed (besides lighting) then run a sepeerate neutral and ground. then you will need the additional ground bar.
p.s. i believe the bonding screw is the combo philip head screw directly over the 100a breaker.

 

[Guest]

I can't blow up pics for nuthin with this hardrive,I see two busbars one on either side.One should be bolted directly to the can and thats where your ground should go.The other should be up on insulators isolated from the metal can,thats where the neutral goes.If bolt are bolted directly to the can,there should be some plastic insulators with the kit.The idea is you mustn't haven't continuity between the noodle and the ground past the main service,only there should they be bonded.Now I havent been in the trade actively working for awhile,but it could be what you have there isn't a "subpanel" at all,but a 60A main lug panel..This would be designed for the main service of a trailer or such.See what I'm saying?EDIT If used as the main service in a trailer or large paper box lol,the neutral and ground would have continuity(be bonded together)

 

[Guest]

Looks like someone had enough confusion for one day cf lol...

 

[senseless]

if you have a subpanel rated at 100 amps then you should run and a breaker wire rated for 100 amps(2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground) use 2 guage for hot and nuetral and 4 guage for ground. why use a 60 amp breaker to power a 100 amp subpanel?

also on the picture above there is 3 lag terminals right... the left one NEUTRAL goes to the two bus bars on the sides and the middle and right lag terminals HOT go to the breaker bus bar. there is NO grounding bar. you must install one. and bolt or screw it to the box. hope that helps. good luck!

 

[GreenManDan]

So what I am going to do is run 2 #6 hot wires and 1 #6 neutral from a 2 pole 60a breaker. The 2 hot wires will go to a 100a main breaker in the shed panel. I am using the 100a breaker because it came pre-mounted and its safer having a main shutoff in the shed. The neutral will go to the neutral and I will then install a separate grounding strip that will be grounded via grounding rod. The ground and the neutral will not be bonded.

Currently there are no metallic connections between the house and the shed; however, I may add a phone line later on. This is where I am still a little confused. It is okay to bond the ground and neutral at a sub building as long as there are no metallic paths between buildings and the new panel has a grounding stake. But if there is any type of metallic path between buildings the ground and neutral must remain separated. It is optional whether you bring the ground with the 2 hot and neutral as long as there is a new ground stake. Correct?

Think I got it now.

 

[cocktail frank]

you need to run a ground. the neutral should only be run if you have anything 120v coming off the sub.
if you plan on duing that, than you will need to run a total of 4 wires from the main to the sub.
3 #6's (2 hots, 1 neutral)
1 #8 for ground.
if you don't plan on 120v then just pull 2 6's and 1 #8
you can downsize one guage for the ground (8)
regardless if there are metal connections or not between the house and shed, you still need to pull a ground.
any dead short works its way back to the utility, so you can not count on a ground stake as your only means of grounding.
you dont necesssarily need the ground stake, but if you would like to add one AFTER you bond the sub to the main via PULLED ground wire, then go ahead.
you can terminate both grounds to the same ground bar.

plus, you never stated what kind of lighting and wattage you were running.
6's are good for 60a, but if you are drawing close to that, plus the 150ft run, you might have to derate the wire.
derating is basically running a wire size higher to avoid loss due to voltage drop.

 

[Guest]

No it's not OK to have the neutral and ground bonded at the panel,they must be kept seperate.Remember if you use a neutral for 120V circuits its a current carrying conductor,the ground isnt.The neutral and ground are bonded at ground potential only at the main service.