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Electric surges after electrician
- Thread starter Former Guest
- Start date
Former Guest
Active member
You'll love this. It's a metal halide operating on a hps setting because I flipped it while it was running. It shut off once before a few weeks ago so I bought the 600 to run a conversion bulb the right way. I just haven't bought it yet but I finally got some Christmas cash to purchase one and set it up. I'll let it cool down and plug it back in.
I wish I could've taken shop class instead of home economics class. I can cook anything sew anything and set a table like nobodies business
I wish I could've taken shop class instead of home economics class. I can cook anything sew anything and set a table like nobodies business
R
rbt
I was reading the previous posts. Do you know the SEER rating of the AC unit ? amperage requirements? age? can you open a panel and take a picture? how old are your ballasts ? Your electrician take a draw meter ?
seventhchild
Member
did your problem get fixed?if not you need to get a real electrician asap!extension cords are a fire hazard and should only be used in temporary situations (christmas lights,drop light in garage).wire gauge to sub panel should be #8 min but your sub panel appears to be 60 amp which would need #6.is your grow legal ? if it is get a licensed and bonded ele company to inspect the wiring and bring it up to the NEC .$100 per hour in my area.if not legal get references from other growers you trust,inspect previous work by any electrician if possible, and pay NOTHING until work is done to your satisfaction .
Former Guest
Active member
Yes. I don't run my metal halide bulb on a hps setting 24/7. It overheats and that is what caused the surge. I turn it off for a few hours each day. I also unplug the lights daily for bloom. The Titan 8 timer can't handle the initial start up power draw. I went to Home Depot and didn't find much.
The electrician was legit, the grow is legal but the actual work needed some sort of permit?
but we didn't do that so I don't want someone inspecting it.
What's a good timer for a 1000w?
The electrician was legit, the grow is legal but the actual work needed some sort of permit?
but we didn't do that so I don't want someone inspecting it.What's a good timer for a 1000w?
The only ones that are really capable of handling a 1K light are the Intermatic T-101 water-heater timers, and you would need to install a cord on it to make it work. Simple enough if you want to do it, I can talk you through it.
If you want to use a digital timer, then you need an intermediate power relay that will actually switch the load and things get considerably more complicated. I have never found a digital timer that is capable of handling a 1k light - if you look at there specs, you will see that they are invariably rated for a resistive load, while ballasts are either inductive (magnetics) or capacitive (digitals) and they are much more difficult to switch.
You will probably get some people that will tell you that any $15 timer will work. Wrong. They don't understand the specifications or the potential hazards.
If you want to use a digital timer, then you need an intermediate power relay that will actually switch the load and things get considerably more complicated. I have never found a digital timer that is capable of handling a 1k light - if you look at there specs, you will see that they are invariably rated for a resistive load, while ballasts are either inductive (magnetics) or capacitive (digitals) and they are much more difficult to switch.
You will probably get some people that will tell you that any $15 timer will work. Wrong. They don't understand the specifications or the potential hazards.
Former Guest
Active member
I was showed how to repair a cord a cat ate through by keeping each side of the cord seperate and the inside cords too. You use electrical tape to connect each side but still not touching each other.
This is a bit different.
The easiest way is to use a heavy-duty extension cord that is of the appropriate length for the final use, and then cut it at the point where the male end will comfortably reach the ultimate timer location while plugged into the receptacle that you want to use. You then use the male cord end to feed the timer, and the female end to go from the timer to the ballast. Voila - a very heavy-duty timer for HID use.
The easiest way is to use a heavy-duty extension cord that is of the appropriate length for the final use, and then cut it at the point where the male end will comfortably reach the ultimate timer location while plugged into the receptacle that you want to use. You then use the male cord end to feed the timer, and the female end to go from the timer to the ballast. Voila - a very heavy-duty timer for HID use.
R
rbt
I would agree in the intermatic timers I use a pool timer's same kind but 240 volt. I wont run 1000 watt on 120 volt. Depends on what part of the country you are on but the cost of electricity plus other needs to a grow can be cost prohibitive if cost of your grow is concern.
Extension cords with regular end are only rated for 15 amps, you can get the twist connectors 20 & 30 amp plug ends. Just the 15 amp ends will heat up and cause resistance and heat in electrical line is not a good thing. I believe rives information is spot on. I would not worry myself with the NEC as it relate to installation with load and amperage calculations estimated. I am able to use 3 phase which is charged on a industrial rate scale which is 20% of the use and cost of residential power. Just something to consider if you wanted to upgrade you electrical ass opposed to buying it. Just this alone in commercial areas is going to put the backyard grower out of business.
Extension cords with regular end are only rated for 15 amps, you can get the twist connectors 20 & 30 amp plug ends. Just the 15 amp ends will heat up and cause resistance and heat in electrical line is not a good thing. I believe rives information is spot on. I would not worry myself with the NEC as it relate to installation with load and amperage calculations estimated. I am able to use 3 phase which is charged on a industrial rate scale which is 20% of the use and cost of residential power. Just something to consider if you wanted to upgrade you electrical ass opposed to buying it. Just this alone in commercial areas is going to put the backyard grower out of business.
UNREGISTRD
Active member
Yes. I don't run my metal halide bulb on a hps setting 24/7. It overheats and that is what caused the surge. I turn it off for a few hours each day. I also unplug the lights daily for bloom. The Titan 8 timer can't handle the initial start up power draw. I went to Home Depot and didn't find much.
The electrician was legit, the grow is legal but the actual work needed some sort of permit?
What's a good timer for a 1000w?
if this guy is so legit..THEN why Did he not set you up with 240v plugs for your 1000w lights...Knowing your running two 1k's he still set you up on 120v..Thats recipe for disaster...He must not like you very much. You should really consider gettting someone else out there to look at it and get you setup right!
Rives is seriously helping you out and giving great info but it sounds to me what should have been done in the first place was overlooked..
