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Easiest way to make hash! Quick Wash ISO!
- Thread starter mexicanmafia
- Start date
You can separate the water from your iso wash with salt.
I washed my green with iso and filtered out the bits so I just had the laden iso. Then I about doubled the volume of my laden iso using water. Lots of the unwanted products that I had extracted were just as happy in the water content as the iso content, but at this point it was just a jar of fluid. I needed to separate the water (and anything it carried) back out from the iso, along with any water the iso may of provided itself. Because as said earlier, 70% iso is likely 30% water also. And water slows the evaporation part of the process considerably. So.. the separation. Just add salt. That's it. Water will take on salt, but iso won't. As the water does so, it becomes heavier and heavier, and will sink to the bottom of your container, while the oil and alcohol both float upon it. This separation is very quick, they just don't want to be together anymore. Now you can pour or siphon off, and get onto evaporating your laden iso without that dirty water slowing the job down. You get to just pour it away.
ISO extracts really do taste like industrial waste though, don't you think? Carbon scrubbing and water separation makes little difference. Purged with heat and cold till its almost hard, it still tastes like a refinery. There is something nasty that just refuses to leave. Find some ethanol instead if you can. It actually has no smell or taste, and is still a wash and evaporate procedure. Just don't salt it. Ethanol takes on salt.
I washed my green with iso and filtered out the bits so I just had the laden iso. Then I about doubled the volume of my laden iso using water. Lots of the unwanted products that I had extracted were just as happy in the water content as the iso content, but at this point it was just a jar of fluid. I needed to separate the water (and anything it carried) back out from the iso, along with any water the iso may of provided itself. Because as said earlier, 70% iso is likely 30% water also. And water slows the evaporation part of the process considerably. So.. the separation. Just add salt. That's it. Water will take on salt, but iso won't. As the water does so, it becomes heavier and heavier, and will sink to the bottom of your container, while the oil and alcohol both float upon it. This separation is very quick, they just don't want to be together anymore. Now you can pour or siphon off, and get onto evaporating your laden iso without that dirty water slowing the job down. You get to just pour it away.
ISO extracts really do taste like industrial waste though, don't you think? Carbon scrubbing and water separation makes little difference. Purged with heat and cold till its almost hard, it still tastes like a refinery. There is something nasty that just refuses to leave. Find some ethanol instead if you can. It actually has no smell or taste, and is still a wash and evaporate procedure. Just don't salt it. Ethanol takes on salt.
Wow amazing hash and best advice for safety I’ve seen to make this thanks!
mayorofthdesert
Active member
i'm sure it's been mentioned but bears repeating, 99.95% iso can be had online. no worry about water soluables & lower evap temps.
I agree. Not a good long-term solution. I've felt some success making concentrate using ISO, in the sense that you're able to create a stronger product more desirable to consume.
One dab or vape is far less taxing on the airways than combusting a joint and so the entourage effect is very different.
However the ISO product leaves some aftertaste it seems. Decreasing the volume of solvent minimizes this (i.e. 250 ml total of ISO for 30 grams cured flower).
With the labor involved and noticeable characteristic taste of 99% grocery store ISO extract other solvents may be preferred.
The expense and nature of volatile organic solvents necessitate expensive equipment and/or training which may bottleneck quality extract production.
Water extraction or dry sift is worth pursuing. Acceptable yields without the use of solvents may prove ecologically sustainable while providing the highest quality product.
I have turned trim into QWISO and it was no good. Every single time I've tried the product after evaporation even weeks later and the taste is just no good. I used 99.95% isopropyl and it always had a weird taste.
I built a rosin press and using trim from the same plant I used to make QWISO...the rosin came out so much more flavorful without the nasty taste ispropyl leaves behind.
I built a rosin press and using trim from the same plant I used to make QWISO...the rosin came out so much more flavorful without the nasty taste ispropyl leaves behind.
It has been recommended to wash hydrocarbon derived cannabis extract after drying with 192+ proof ethanol and evaporate/boil several times to dilute and help purge remaining hydrocarbons. That sounds like a lot of work and time during which the material could heat up or cook. The fumes of iso and other solvents require outside or fume hood conditions only. Cold ethanol extraction is likely preferable to iso.
P
pongster
just wanted to stop by and say that i tried the method on the first post and worked perfectly.
a little more trials to adjust temperature to scratch and the tools, but nevertheless succesful. still it tastes like refinery hehehe but oh boy. i will be doing this with the crap weed i have leftover from purchases.
thanks a lot for posting, nice way to consume poor or sick weed.
a little more trials to adjust temperature to scratch and the tools, but nevertheless succesful. still it tastes like refinery hehehe but oh boy. i will be doing this with the crap weed i have leftover from purchases.
thanks a lot for posting, nice way to consume poor or sick weed.
ISO Oil
ISO Oil
I find NOT grinding the buds works just as well and less particles to filter. I just break the buds up by hand and then dry them before mixing with the ISO. I use 99% ISO, as it's all about removing the water content. Spread thin on a baking tray in an oven @ 200 for about 1/2 hour will dry them completely. Or, you can do it in a microwave. (Care and close monitoring in the mic, as the weed can combust and burn!) Short bursts are good if you can't turn the power down. Once my buds are really dry, I chuck them in a stainless pan and just cover with the ISO. I mash this mixture with a fork vigorously before putting a lid on and giving it a good shake.
Next, I pour the liquid into a Pint glass through some 400 mesh which I squeeze out by hand. Then I pour the mixture through a coffee filter into a glass mixing bowl and it's ready for reducing.
Most people use a rice boiler for this rather than a hob and pan for safety reasons, and you should always do this outside or in a very well ventilated area. I don't bother with a rice boiler, as I find them hard to clean, so I just sit my glass bowl on an electric heating pad, the kind you use in bed for a bad back. This gently evaporates the ISO, leaving a lovely golden honey oil.
I love vaping this oil in a wax/oil vaping pen, especially for the 1st hit in the morning!
Stay safe peeps!
ISO Oil
I find NOT grinding the buds works just as well and less particles to filter. I just break the buds up by hand and then dry them before mixing with the ISO. I use 99% ISO, as it's all about removing the water content. Spread thin on a baking tray in an oven @ 200 for about 1/2 hour will dry them completely. Or, you can do it in a microwave. (Care and close monitoring in the mic, as the weed can combust and burn!) Short bursts are good if you can't turn the power down. Once my buds are really dry, I chuck them in a stainless pan and just cover with the ISO. I mash this mixture with a fork vigorously before putting a lid on and giving it a good shake.
Next, I pour the liquid into a Pint glass through some 400 mesh which I squeeze out by hand. Then I pour the mixture through a coffee filter into a glass mixing bowl and it's ready for reducing.
Most people use a rice boiler for this rather than a hob and pan for safety reasons, and you should always do this outside or in a very well ventilated area. I don't bother with a rice boiler, as I find them hard to clean, so I just sit my glass bowl on an electric heating pad, the kind you use in bed for a bad back. This gently evaporates the ISO, leaving a lovely golden honey oil.
I love vaping this oil in a wax/oil vaping pen, especially for the 1st hit in the morning!
Stay safe peeps!
I have always used this method. I haven't made any in years, but back in 2008-2009, I would make this regularly with cheap QPs of surprisingly really good mexican sativas. At the time, I would always be smoking bowls topped with pretty large amounts, my tolerance got insane. The great thing about this method, is that it's good if you want to get really fucking high. Yeah, dabbing it, or vaping it would be more efficient, as it generally continues to burn like incense in such large amounts. I would pack bowls and then take a medium sized marble ball of it, slightly flatten it, and then smoke. It was nice watching it bubble and "melt" into the weed. It would make a bowl that if smoked consecutively would last 5 minutes or so, smoke for around 30 minutes. It produces a very white smoke.
One trick I learned is that putting it in the freezer for about 10-15 minutes makes the scraping much easier. If done when warm or room temperature, no matter how flat your dish or whatever is, and no matter what type of scraper you're using, you're going to need to cool it. I haven't tried refrigerating it, but I found that freezing it for longer than 15 minutes does make the scraping even easier, it basically just flakes off into golden shards, BUT the issue I found with freezin it for longer than 15 minutes is that water starts to condensate. this isn't really that big of an issue, it's not much, and dries out quickly, but I still say in the freezer, 5-15 minutes is a good time.
The following are the methods I've used to evaporate the alcohol and the water. I always used 90% ISO.
1. Indoors with a portable heater gently blowing on it. This method usually takes 4-5 hours and is not my preferred method due to the time.
2. some sort of electric heating device. pretty fast depending on the quantity. For small batches (under an oz) about an hour or less. This is a good method.
3. The sun. This is the fastest natural way. Depending on your location, if you sun dry it in summer, the alcohol and water will evaporate rapidly. Especially if the temps are high and it's full sun. This depends on your location in the world. I'm sure in countries where it's usually cloudy and/or cold, it wouldn't be a good method. As I said this is the fastest natural method, but I have found that virtually every time I've done this in the sun, something because of the wind contaminates it, usually nothing you can't remove before it completely evaporates, but still, that is just the air, and various pollen, leaves, etc... that blow in the wind can and usually will to some degree end up in this oil. It's still a great method that I used all the time in the summer.
4. DISCLAIMER: OPEN ENVIRONMENT, VERY DANGEROUS, KNOW YOUR LOCAL FIRE LAWS, BE CAREFUL AND USE PRECAUTIONS AND HAVE FIRE EXTINQUISHER OR OTHER FIRE SNUFFERS NEAR BY.
This method is the fastest method of them all, but the only one with the disclaimer. Contrary to what I initially thought, and what I thought would make scientific sense, this method does not destroy the quality or change the product for better or worse if done properly. By the way, all of these methods end up being potent, consistant in texture, appearance, etc...
With that said. Read the disclaimer again above. I personally don't suggest doing this, unless you are 100% confident you won't end up setting yourself or anything else on fire.
Take a lighter and quickly spark it over your dish. The alcohol instantly ignites to about 2-3ft. Step away immediately after lighting. Just like QWISO, with only doing it for around 20-30 seconds, the same applies here. After around 30-45 seconds (much less if it's a very small batch), blow the fire out by either blowing it out, or using a t-shirt or something to produce wind that will put it out. The dish will be extremely hot. There will be black soot on the top edges of your dish or plate but not on or in the oil itself. The oil is not evaporated completely at this point, but it's very very close. It's a very thick golden liquid, but with the heat of the plate/dish it will all be evaporated within 10-15 minutes from that point.
Those are the only methods I have experience with. I have never tried using boiling water, but I'm sure it would work well. As for my preferred method, is to let it completely naturally evaporate in a closed location, to where no contaminants can get to it. This takes a few days. I forgot to mention this method, because I'm pleasantly stoned off of some really good dry sift of a mix of various strains.
As far as the fire method, I did it as an experiment, and it took trial and error. If you let it burn all the way, you still have good viable oil, but because of the heat, a lot of it is being vaporized unless you put the plate/dish in an ice bath/ice water bath immediately after the fire is out. The key is to get the majority of the alcohol evaporated, but not all. Just enough until you're left with a non-transparent golden liquid.
Surprisigly, I thought the fire method would result in lower potency oil, but I have done side by side comparisons, as well as blind tests with various friends, and they can't tell the difference at all. With that said, I'm sure there is some loss of final product and perhaps some chemical change, but I haven't noticed it. With every single method I've done, and every single method that everyone else who uses this QWISO method uses, it's always the same.
That leads me to something I've always wondered but never asked.
In my experience with the QWISO method, the taste is extremely pleasant and delightful no matter what the strain, but the only terpene I can detect is limonene. Why? For example, if I'll take a strain that normally tastes skunky, including it's dry sift, or any other non-limonene predominant flavor, like a lot of fruity strains for example, that does not transfer to the QWISO oil. Why is this? I can (as can anyone in the vicinity) also detect the myrecene (sp), in the aroma of the smoke, and perhaps as a background note, but the limonene is very predominant no matter what the strain. In my experience it doesn't take with it all of the terpenes, because for example, I once made this with an OZ of Sweet Tooth which on it's own has a very fruit-salad/fruit candy taste, but that does not carry into the oil made with QWISO but the limonene sure does.
These days I haven't had much interest in concentrates, as I love flower and dry sift, but I will most likely make some with some trim in the near future, to bring back memories of over a decade ago.
In my opinion, rosin presses are just a better method all around of making concentrates 100% natural and quite fast.
Peace and Love,
Tetra
One trick I learned is that putting it in the freezer for about 10-15 minutes makes the scraping much easier. If done when warm or room temperature, no matter how flat your dish or whatever is, and no matter what type of scraper you're using, you're going to need to cool it. I haven't tried refrigerating it, but I found that freezing it for longer than 15 minutes does make the scraping even easier, it basically just flakes off into golden shards, BUT the issue I found with freezin it for longer than 15 minutes is that water starts to condensate. this isn't really that big of an issue, it's not much, and dries out quickly, but I still say in the freezer, 5-15 minutes is a good time.
The following are the methods I've used to evaporate the alcohol and the water. I always used 90% ISO.
1. Indoors with a portable heater gently blowing on it. This method usually takes 4-5 hours and is not my preferred method due to the time.
2. some sort of electric heating device. pretty fast depending on the quantity. For small batches (under an oz) about an hour or less. This is a good method.
3. The sun. This is the fastest natural way. Depending on your location, if you sun dry it in summer, the alcohol and water will evaporate rapidly. Especially if the temps are high and it's full sun. This depends on your location in the world. I'm sure in countries where it's usually cloudy and/or cold, it wouldn't be a good method. As I said this is the fastest natural method, but I have found that virtually every time I've done this in the sun, something because of the wind contaminates it, usually nothing you can't remove before it completely evaporates, but still, that is just the air, and various pollen, leaves, etc... that blow in the wind can and usually will to some degree end up in this oil. It's still a great method that I used all the time in the summer.
4. DISCLAIMER: OPEN ENVIRONMENT, VERY DANGEROUS, KNOW YOUR LOCAL FIRE LAWS, BE CAREFUL AND USE PRECAUTIONS AND HAVE FIRE EXTINQUISHER OR OTHER FIRE SNUFFERS NEAR BY.
This method is the fastest method of them all, but the only one with the disclaimer. Contrary to what I initially thought, and what I thought would make scientific sense, this method does not destroy the quality or change the product for better or worse if done properly. By the way, all of these methods end up being potent, consistant in texture, appearance, etc...
With that said. Read the disclaimer again above. I personally don't suggest doing this, unless you are 100% confident you won't end up setting yourself or anything else on fire.
Take a lighter and quickly spark it over your dish. The alcohol instantly ignites to about 2-3ft. Step away immediately after lighting. Just like QWISO, with only doing it for around 20-30 seconds, the same applies here. After around 30-45 seconds (much less if it's a very small batch), blow the fire out by either blowing it out, or using a t-shirt or something to produce wind that will put it out. The dish will be extremely hot. There will be black soot on the top edges of your dish or plate but not on or in the oil itself. The oil is not evaporated completely at this point, but it's very very close. It's a very thick golden liquid, but with the heat of the plate/dish it will all be evaporated within 10-15 minutes from that point.
Those are the only methods I have experience with. I have never tried using boiling water, but I'm sure it would work well. As for my preferred method, is to let it completely naturally evaporate in a closed location, to where no contaminants can get to it. This takes a few days. I forgot to mention this method, because I'm pleasantly stoned off of some really good dry sift of a mix of various strains.
As far as the fire method, I did it as an experiment, and it took trial and error. If you let it burn all the way, you still have good viable oil, but because of the heat, a lot of it is being vaporized unless you put the plate/dish in an ice bath/ice water bath immediately after the fire is out. The key is to get the majority of the alcohol evaporated, but not all. Just enough until you're left with a non-transparent golden liquid.
Surprisigly, I thought the fire method would result in lower potency oil, but I have done side by side comparisons, as well as blind tests with various friends, and they can't tell the difference at all. With that said, I'm sure there is some loss of final product and perhaps some chemical change, but I haven't noticed it. With every single method I've done, and every single method that everyone else who uses this QWISO method uses, it's always the same.
That leads me to something I've always wondered but never asked.
In my experience with the QWISO method, the taste is extremely pleasant and delightful no matter what the strain, but the only terpene I can detect is limonene. Why? For example, if I'll take a strain that normally tastes skunky, including it's dry sift, or any other non-limonene predominant flavor, like a lot of fruity strains for example, that does not transfer to the QWISO oil. Why is this? I can (as can anyone in the vicinity) also detect the myrecene (sp), in the aroma of the smoke, and perhaps as a background note, but the limonene is very predominant no matter what the strain. In my experience it doesn't take with it all of the terpenes, because for example, I once made this with an OZ of Sweet Tooth which on it's own has a very fruit-salad/fruit candy taste, but that does not carry into the oil made with QWISO but the limonene sure does.
These days I haven't had much interest in concentrates, as I love flower and dry sift, but I will most likely make some with some trim in the near future, to bring back memories of over a decade ago.
In my opinion, rosin presses are just a better method all around of making concentrates 100% natural and quite fast.
Peace and Love,
Tetra
TheGrandmaGrows
Member
This is my go-to since years ago. I prefer Ethanol over ISO though, is more expensive but also safer in my opinion, just do 3 min instead of 30s
ethanol yeilds a superior product, ime... but isopropanol is almost as good. i like iso hash better than bho.
i would still winterize with ethanol for maximum bell clarity.
fresh frozen ftw... my absolute favorite stuff is live pressed, but it's still too expensive compared to a couple bucks in iso bottles... iso is almost as good imo.
i would still winterize with ethanol for maximum bell clarity.
fresh frozen ftw... my absolute favorite stuff is live pressed, but it's still too expensive compared to a couple bucks in iso bottles... iso is almost as good imo.
Consolidated
Well-known member
I greet the company, I have some buds slightly moldy.
Is it OK as starting material for QWET or QWISO?
Is it OK as starting material for QWET or QWISO?
Latest posts
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9 hours light from start to finish quick turn around low yield sativas.- Latest: Smoke Creek Cannabis
Latest posts
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9 hours light from start to finish quick turn around low yield sativas.
- Latest: Smoke Creek Cannabis
