start with mild and work to normal if all ok. follow directions on back bottle for how much. i havent needed to go above normal dose except for a boost.
Hibrid1,
The MO is a primary part of the problem. It drops the pH way down, and the low pH is inhospitable to the non-fungal critters that raise the pH. That's why I've started using the Sucanat or Agave in the initial mix. They have little effect on the pH.
Are you using MetaK? If you are, you don't need the MO for K. Another source of sugar that doesn't drop the pH like MO does is all you need to go with the MetaK. If the pH of your first mix is still below 5, I would use less Grow, Bloom, and MetaK in the first mix [but don't lower the sugar], then add the rest later, after the pH rises. Then let the pH brew back up, and add Microblast and other additives, and adjust the pH with Catalyst at feeding. If you are using other additives, I would mix them one by one, checking the pH after adding each to get an idea of their effect on the mix. Again, don't bubble the Microblast.
If your pH allows, then you can use MO, but carefully. The Sucanat has the carbs covered, and if you want more carbs without lowering the pH, you can add more Sucanat or Agave. You may need to do this to bump the pH up high enough so that when you do the final pH ajustment, you can add at least 2 tsp/gal total of Catalyst. You'll want to add that much in certain stages of bloom cycle.
http://www.iherb.com/Sucanat ,or you can get it at "Natural Food" stores. Whole foods has it in bulk cheap. A pound goes a long way.
I don't think the amount of EWC is very critical, but the more you use, the more critters you start with which gives you faster brewing time. I use a big handful in 4 gal. Using more, unless bagged in a paint strainer bag or similar can be a bit cumbersome. Report back with your experiences after playing with it some. Good luck. -granger
Dude, just went out and bought some Sucanat sugar, made some solution using ONLY that, worm castings and EJ Grow and Bloom and my PH is 4.3 (EXACTLY what it was with the MO)
It's the EJ bloom and grow that lowers the PH for me, not the molasses.
Tribal,
What brand is it? -granger
I have a totally 100% organic grow, only distilled water, and worm poo teas, I never use EJ for tea even tho you can. I found out the hard way that the meter will throw you off everytime, just because you may have a synthetic somewhere in the equation. If you are growin synthetic, and using EJ, yes you will see problems. The most I see now is barely yellowing of the two bottom leaves, but never new growth.I know this has been discussed in other threads but Im not seeing the answer to my question.
This is my first run using EJ and I knew before I ever bought a bottle that there are issues with the PH. I know you're supposed to bubble the tea for 24-72 hours and the PH is supposed to rise and stabilize. This is not happening for me. The PH does not change from the low 4s no matter how long I bubble it. Then I get runoff in the mid 7s. Im having serious lockout issues and using a solution around 5 to try to balance things out. The tea does foam as I bubble it, so I know the microbes are doing their thing.
Why is my PH not rising as I bubble the tea? Im using the standard EJ line + 10ml blackstrap per gallon. The temp of the tea as I bubble is low 70s. Do I need to heat the tea to change/stableize the PH? Medium is FF Ocean Forrest. Should I start amending this with peat moss?
Thanks
start with mild and work to normal if all ok. follow directions on back bottle for how much. i havent needed to go above normal dose except for a boost.
Rainman himself couldn't have said it better.
Yeah, ive got earf juice, yeah
Lx
The bottle say 30ml/gal for large and rapidly growing container plants. So 'mild' means what? 15ml? I started at 10 and up to 15/20 V/B.
Also, some people in this thread have said that runoff PH doesnt mean anything. This is wrong. I have 9 lemon larry og plants in flower and the most unhealthy one has a runoff of 7.6 (highest runoff). The healthiest specimen has a runoff of 6.7 (lowest) -- there a definitive relation with the other plants as well. Runoff PH matters ALOT if the reading is accurate.
No, I was asking Tribal Seeds what brand of organic blackstrap he uses that doesn't drop the pH. Yeah, Hi-Brix is thick and it drops the pH like the other brands of molasses I've used. -granger
are you refering to regular ej line or sugar peak?my bottles all list mild ,normal,strong,extra strong, for soil soilless. rates are diff for each bottle
i thought so, its a keeper in my book ..regular. havent even seen sugar peak yet. the place i go hasnt got it yet. is it better than regular?
agreed.... however 48 hours is good.. take ph to 5.-5.8.. ,My buddies mix and pour with great success... i run reserc and drain to waste.. always had good results with both!!heres the deal with earth juice. it must be mixed/brewed every day for 2 to 4 days .the ph will rise from about 2.5/ 3 when first mixed according to label directions with ro water to about 8.once the ph stops rising usually about 7.5/ 8 and about 3/4 days its time to ph down to 6.3 where it will be stable and no ppm increase will occur.if you ph up at the begining after it brews for a few days the ppm sails off the chart.Morningdewd