S
SeaMaiden
It is my opinion that grossly overmixing/overusing a product like E20 is far better than underusing it, at least in terms of creating resistance.
And while it may be well-known in the ag/horticultural community that products like E20 cause resistance, it is very much UNKNOWN in the cannabis community.
I speak to this because I had one occasion to try it, before I did my due diligence, on plants that had been infected with root aphids and the PM suffered during and after that was impossible to eradicate.
Before I say more, I would like to qualify my own experience with quarantine, observation and treatment protocols for organisms housed in artificial environments (public aquaria and wholesale aquatic & exotic ornamental import/export), which hopefully alludes to my ability to use a given product and procedure properly. I began keeping aquaria of my own back in 1986, by 1989 I had my first miniature reef tank and needed a job to pay for my habit, which led to employment at an old, well established (and well connected in the trade) aquarium shop in SoCal. That led to employment in the import/export field, and that widened from aquatic ornamentals to include exotics. My experience is much more solidly founded in aquatics, though. I have written a great deal on husbandry techniques, including disease control and treatment, and a good deal of what I've written is still referred to.
I treated this group of cuts which weren't responding to any other methods with E20, and stuck them outside. Putting plants outside is my typical first course of action, it allows a type of QT (physical separation) as well as allows me to observe the plants and disease or pest behavior under natural conditions. I was able to achieve elimination of PM on all but one plant, a cut of The White.
So since reporting this I've had a lot of people come at me and tell me that I must have missed something, didn't apply properly, what have you. And while I would love to give those notions quarter, I must state emphatically that my training and experience with other living organisms disallows such casual mistakes. I feel that somehow I managed to observe a variety, species or subspecies of PM that was able to resist treatment in this one plant.
I have also experienced PM in very dry conditions, with excellent air flow. This discounts the common arguments that high humidity is to blame, or lack of air flow is to blame. I feel, and I think the science bears this out, that it's a variety of factors that come into play, especially issues such as species. I mean, who would argue that The White is a "PM magnet"?
In the aquatic ornamental field we use a quaternary ammonium product to sterilize all tools that go from tank to tank. If we didn't, we'd be wiping out thousands of animals with one simple ignorant dip. There are many shops that achieve exactly this, and it's preventable.
So, don't use bleach to sterilize, use something that's known and proven to work on surfaces.
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I want to bring up a point based on some news articles I read recently about the laboratories themselves. I am not aiming to shoot down Steep Hill, but it appears that we have a problem when there are no standards for testing, no P&P that is standardized, nor any type of licensing or permitting process that allows the end user to know that the lab in question is actually performing good work.
In other words, just because a lab tested it, doesn't mean it is what they say it is. I personally would like to see better guidelines (as in some sort of guidelines) and standards that would allow any and all laboratories that test cannabis to create reports that are truly useful.
If there are standards in P&P, etcetera, I personally would like to learn more.
Here is one of the articles to which I refer: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2012/02/15/BANG1N7DLQ.DTL
And while it may be well-known in the ag/horticultural community that products like E20 cause resistance, it is very much UNKNOWN in the cannabis community.
I speak to this because I had one occasion to try it, before I did my due diligence, on plants that had been infected with root aphids and the PM suffered during and after that was impossible to eradicate.
Before I say more, I would like to qualify my own experience with quarantine, observation and treatment protocols for organisms housed in artificial environments (public aquaria and wholesale aquatic & exotic ornamental import/export), which hopefully alludes to my ability to use a given product and procedure properly. I began keeping aquaria of my own back in 1986, by 1989 I had my first miniature reef tank and needed a job to pay for my habit, which led to employment at an old, well established (and well connected in the trade) aquarium shop in SoCal. That led to employment in the import/export field, and that widened from aquatic ornamentals to include exotics. My experience is much more solidly founded in aquatics, though. I have written a great deal on husbandry techniques, including disease control and treatment, and a good deal of what I've written is still referred to.
I treated this group of cuts which weren't responding to any other methods with E20, and stuck them outside. Putting plants outside is my typical first course of action, it allows a type of QT (physical separation) as well as allows me to observe the plants and disease or pest behavior under natural conditions. I was able to achieve elimination of PM on all but one plant, a cut of The White.
So since reporting this I've had a lot of people come at me and tell me that I must have missed something, didn't apply properly, what have you. And while I would love to give those notions quarter, I must state emphatically that my training and experience with other living organisms disallows such casual mistakes. I feel that somehow I managed to observe a variety, species or subspecies of PM that was able to resist treatment in this one plant.
I have also experienced PM in very dry conditions, with excellent air flow. This discounts the common arguments that high humidity is to blame, or lack of air flow is to blame. I feel, and I think the science bears this out, that it's a variety of factors that come into play, especially issues such as species. I mean, who would argue that The White is a "PM magnet"?
GREAT post and information, and I want to be in on that discussion on how you achieve high Brix (sap sugars, yes?) levels. Are you able to do it organically?
Part of the problem is this paradigm on cannabis forums that bleach is the end-all, be-all sterilizer. It is NOT. If you want true sterilization, go for isopropyl alcohol, a quaternary ammonium product (such as Physan 20), or something similar. Think along the lines of how a medical office or hairdresser would sterilize their tools.
In the aquatic ornamental field we use a quaternary ammonium product to sterilize all tools that go from tank to tank. If we didn't, we'd be wiping out thousands of animals with one simple ignorant dip. There are many shops that achieve exactly this, and it's preventable.
So, don't use bleach to sterilize, use something that's known and proven to work on surfaces.
Thank you for this.
Again, many thanks!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I want to bring up a point based on some news articles I read recently about the laboratories themselves. I am not aiming to shoot down Steep Hill, but it appears that we have a problem when there are no standards for testing, no P&P that is standardized, nor any type of licensing or permitting process that allows the end user to know that the lab in question is actually performing good work.
In other words, just because a lab tested it, doesn't mean it is what they say it is. I personally would like to see better guidelines (as in some sort of guidelines) and standards that would allow any and all laboratories that test cannabis to create reports that are truly useful.
If there are standards in P&P, etcetera, I personally would like to learn more.
Here is one of the articles to which I refer: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2012/02/15/BANG1N7DLQ.DTL
