NizzyJones
New member
I also thought of the Sticky Brick Jr after I posted. Requires some torch technique but it's also instant vapor. Runs like $135 from puffitup.
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dynavap ?
- Thread starter nattyroots
- Start date
NizzyJones
New member
Or MistVape Essence, very similar to the SBs, for like $80.
I have a Sticky Brick Flip Brick for sale for $60 shipped CONUS if you are interested (and CONUS).
Also have 2 of those fake VapCaps and I can confirm that the caps DO NOT click. No TRUFLEX disc in the cap.
Also have 2 of those fake VapCaps and I can confirm that the caps DO NOT click. No TRUFLEX disc in the cap.
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SandyFantasyman
Canadian brick and mortar sales?
Canadian brick and mortar sales?
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Canadian brick and mortar sales?
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https://www.planetvape.ca/vaporizers/dynavap/
Planet Vape is the CA dist for VCs.
Or, you can go to Alibaba and buy the Chinese clones for $10 each.
Planet Vape is the CA dist for VCs.
Or, you can go to Alibaba and buy the Chinese clones for $10 each.
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SandyFantasyman
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Oops, sorry. I misread your post. I missed that you were looking for a bricks and mortar store.
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SandyFantasyman
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White Beard
Active member
For the record, I have added a convection vape,to my arsenal: an MV1 from Ghostvapes. Mine was having power-management problems, but I’ll have a replacement unit in days. The difference between the two Vapes, besides the obvious one of convection vs conduction, is that the MV1 uses crucibles, is app-controlled (as well as button), and provides 5-6 solid hits per load. It is also battery powered (as was the IH I used until it quit).
Can hardly wait for the replacement to arrive....
Can hardly wait for the replacement to arrive....
Just FYI, if your induction heater was an SJK, it's probably the relay. I replaced 2 of mine.
White Beard
Active member
Nah, I bought one from pipes, and it was great until it stopped. Shipped it back, paid for repair, still doesn’t work, and back and forth. It’s dead, Jim...
I bought 3 from Pipes. Only 1 worked. LOL Nice quality control. LOL
Egzoset
Member
Salutations,
The hard reality is that DynaVap's initial design was never intended to include 3rd-party ready-made power Induction Heat drivers as the NoFlame/SJK (dental wax) device, so it's only to be expected when DynaVap items prove to exceed manufacturer (IH) specifications - a direct consequence of this tool's active complementary handheld metal weight, for example... In other words it may be irrational to insist until the owners decide to match energy output to workload properly. Until then either the delivery medium shall require a conceptual fix by trimming down its IH-related mass, either the DynaVap awaits IH-drivers capable of supplying enough juice on-demand without burning relay contacts. Consequently i'd advise close to 300 Watts judging from rare recent FC echoes...
Anyway i made my point early in this thread, so i simply mean to remind ourselves there won't be miracles nor some auto-magic solution. Consider yourselves lucky to benefit from your lousy contraptions this long; now try to imagine if things were managed properly, starting from the blueprint stage!
So my suggestion is to trim down your IH workloads until their susceptor's (metal) weight reaches around 0.75 g, then pay attention trying to verify that your flameless heat tool no longer complains...
IMO that's all it takes to experiment with "Micro-Bursting" once reasonably implemented, e.g. by adjusting susceptor weight to match its associated IH driver. Then the "Heat Charge" still needs to be matched to its cannabic load by adjusting bowl capacity, etc.
In my LAVA engine scenario the addition of magnetic poles and turbine fans would even turn the capsule into a rotor and a propellor simultaneously, ideally surrounded by water glassware also optionally supplying Inlet Water for Self-Conditioning purposes, etc. Just because Induction heat technology happens to prove quite modular, versatile and compatible when principles translate into practice... Which in turn allows designer freedom never dreamed off before.
Too bad though it's not this much superior it would pop into the realm of our everyday reality all on its own, so lets quit such present lethargic state and start with the basics, then see what's next! In any case i consider at this moment your situations look somewhat stalled.
Euh...
M'well... Please do as if i didn't disturb this thread!
Good day, have fun!!
The hard reality is that DynaVap's initial design was never intended to include 3rd-party ready-made power Induction Heat drivers as the NoFlame/SJK (dental wax) device, so it's only to be expected when DynaVap items prove to exceed manufacturer (IH) specifications - a direct consequence of this tool's active complementary handheld metal weight, for example... In other words it may be irrational to insist until the owners decide to match energy output to workload properly. Until then either the delivery medium shall require a conceptual fix by trimming down its IH-related mass, either the DynaVap awaits IH-drivers capable of supplying enough juice on-demand without burning relay contacts. Consequently i'd advise close to 300 Watts judging from rare recent FC echoes...
Anyway i made my point early in this thread, so i simply mean to remind ourselves there won't be miracles nor some auto-magic solution. Consider yourselves lucky to benefit from your lousy contraptions this long; now try to imagine if things were managed properly, starting from the blueprint stage!
So my suggestion is to trim down your IH workloads until their susceptor's (metal) weight reaches around 0.75 g, then pay attention trying to verify that your flameless heat tool no longer complains...
IMO that's all it takes to experiment with "Micro-Bursting" once reasonably implemented, e.g. by adjusting susceptor weight to match its associated IH driver. Then the "Heat Charge" still needs to be matched to its cannabic load by adjusting bowl capacity, etc.
In my LAVA engine scenario the addition of magnetic poles and turbine fans would even turn the capsule into a rotor and a propellor simultaneously, ideally surrounded by water glassware also optionally supplying Inlet Water for Self-Conditioning purposes, etc. Just because Induction heat technology happens to prove quite modular, versatile and compatible when principles translate into practice... Which in turn allows designer freedom never dreamed off before.
Too bad though it's not this much superior it would pop into the realm of our everyday reality all on its own, so lets quit such present lethargic state and start with the basics, then see what's next! In any case i consider at this moment your situations look somewhat stalled.
Euh...
M'well... Please do as if i didn't disturb this thread!
Good day, have fun!!
Drewsif
Member
Dynavap sucks due to the milkshake conundrum.
Why do vape manus insist on forcing the user to suck the damn sides of their head in til their eyes pop out just to get a pull? I know the answer is that most people will suck too hard with no restrictions, but those people don't matter. I can suck slow without being forced. It shouldn't hurt your jaw to get a hit. I need braces after hitting the vapcap. Damn..
I think the cap has actually gotten tighter, have to scoot it down a notch and wiggle it in just the right position to even get a rip.. I mean look at it, the cap blocks all airflow. Not theoretically, literally, a round circle inside a circle, the entire perimeter is blocked of air flow by those 3 rings. Fix that and it's still just a fancy one hitter,but would actually work. It's very hard to combust.
I got the omni because of the increased airflow. What good is an extra carb? The carb is already giant. I'm so lost on why these vape companies do this. The only restriction should be the herb itself. The whole extra carb adjustment makes no sense. If you dont block the carb completely, zero air passes through the herb, its that restricted. No way in hell you can use this thing in the dark, you have to find the carb.. Why does it even have one.. So confused
Why do vape manus insist on forcing the user to suck the damn sides of their head in til their eyes pop out just to get a pull? I know the answer is that most people will suck too hard with no restrictions, but those people don't matter. I can suck slow without being forced. It shouldn't hurt your jaw to get a hit. I need braces after hitting the vapcap. Damn..
I think the cap has actually gotten tighter, have to scoot it down a notch and wiggle it in just the right position to even get a rip.. I mean look at it, the cap blocks all airflow. Not theoretically, literally, a round circle inside a circle, the entire perimeter is blocked of air flow by those 3 rings. Fix that and it's still just a fancy one hitter,but would actually work. It's very hard to combust.
I got the omni because of the increased airflow. What good is an extra carb? The carb is already giant. I'm so lost on why these vape companies do this. The only restriction should be the herb itself. The whole extra carb adjustment makes no sense. If you dont block the carb completely, zero air passes through the herb, its that restricted. No way in hell you can use this thing in the dark, you have to find the carb.. Why does it even have one.. So confused
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SandyFantasyman
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Drew.... I agree that Dynavap sux. But, mostly for personal reasons. The product they make is not too bad, Grossly overpriced.
Anyway, you dilemma is a common one with VapCaps and there's an easy fix.
I'm not sure I can explain this without pictures but you need to take a very small round file and file the tip (stainless or titanium? It seems to be more prevalent on the stainless tips) where the air paths end at the tip of the tip.
A small notch filed those 3 or 4 places will allow plenty of air flow. I have seen people file so much off that it give way TOO much air flow.
So, if I can explain this and you have a small file, we can solve your problem quite easily.
I'll try to get a picture.
Without the small 'notches', the tip fits flush against the inside of the cap and, as you said, you cant get a hit at all.
This is one of the problems I have with DynaVap. Most of their products require that the user finish the manufacturing process themselves. LOL
Also, for anyone interested, I bought a dozen of the Kepler clones to the DynaVap M. They are a perfect copy. Actually, the machining on the Chinese copies is a little better and cleaner. LOL Sad, but true. I sold a handful of them but I have 3 or 4 left. Do we have a 'for sale' forum here? If you're USA and PayPal, I can send you one of these for $40. Better than the $65 (plus shipping) they want.
Also, if you have not used the VapCap with an induction heater, you don't know what you're missing. Way better than a torch (IMO).
.
Anyway, you dilemma is a common one with VapCaps and there's an easy fix.
I'm not sure I can explain this without pictures but you need to take a very small round file and file the tip (stainless or titanium? It seems to be more prevalent on the stainless tips) where the air paths end at the tip of the tip.
A small notch filed those 3 or 4 places will allow plenty of air flow. I have seen people file so much off that it give way TOO much air flow.
So, if I can explain this and you have a small file, we can solve your problem quite easily.
I'll try to get a picture.
Without the small 'notches', the tip fits flush against the inside of the cap and, as you said, you cant get a hit at all.
This is one of the problems I have with DynaVap. Most of their products require that the user finish the manufacturing process themselves. LOL
Also, for anyone interested, I bought a dozen of the Kepler clones to the DynaVap M. They are a perfect copy. Actually, the machining on the Chinese copies is a little better and cleaner. LOL Sad, but true. I sold a handful of them but I have 3 or 4 left. Do we have a 'for sale' forum here? If you're USA and PayPal, I can send you one of these for $40. Better than the $65 (plus shipping) they want.
Also, if you have not used the VapCap with an induction heater, you don't know what you're missing. Way better than a torch (IMO).
.
S
SandyFantasyman
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No problem. Glad to provide DynaVap's customer service since they don't. LOL
I did manage to fine a couple pics just to make it clear.
Oddly enough, the only ones I have had to file are the stainless steel tips. The Titanium tips seem to have the tip already filed. However, you can always file it more to allow more flow.
Here are a couple pics I found showing the difference between a flat tip and a tip with the little indentation filed into it.
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I did manage to fine a couple pics just to make it clear.
Oddly enough, the only ones I have had to file are the stainless steel tips. The Titanium tips seem to have the tip already filed. However, you can always file it more to allow more flow.
Here are a couple pics I found showing the difference between a flat tip and a tip with the little indentation filed into it.
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This is a growers forum... I suggest you check out a Vaping Forum for a more broad take and more objective reviews.
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