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Drybacks. Do you do intentional drybacks?

Tmik

Active member
I’ve done probably too many accidental drybacks. (Soil grow) but never intentionally.

Do you ever do drybacks on purpose?
Why do that?
When do you do it?
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Making the plant think water is scarce, will make it think about either growing a bigger root system, or moving from veg to bloom. It really depends on a few things, but in the full swing of veg, the plant will root more in preparation of it happening again. Big roots systems are good, so this is an advantage.
Into bloom it gets risky. The plant is done with being the best it can be in those terms. Now against the clock, it will probably see a water shortage as reason to rush. In early bloom this might be a useful nudge, but you don't want to kill any roots, and dry roots don't last long at all.
By mid bloom, isn't not going to be a good idea. They have given up on repairing roots, and will just do what they can, with what they have. Indicate that a long summer is about to kill them, and they won't want to fill out, and may even think about herming.

Studies suggest a couple of deeper dry backs through veg, and maybe one during transition, is the most likely route to successful crop steering

No.. never tried it on purpose. The most outstanding evidence revolves around the damage it causes into flower. With the gain of more roots in veg, being a bit uncertain. I myself, don't really want to spend time diverting my plants efforts into bigger roots. Which then may lead to a bigger plant, undoing my efforts. I veg into a screen, and really don't want big roots leading to greater competition. It just doesn't suit me.
 

ChefGreen

Member
I’ve done probably too many accidental drybacks. (Soil grow) but never intentionally.

Do you ever do drybacks on purpose?
Why do that?
When do you do it?

1. Yes
2. To force stronger rooting systems
3. Once per week
4. No more than 50% dry back ( Bio365 soil, DTE amends)

The plant does not have droopy leaves, the grow bag is just “light” if that makes sense. If organic, consistent dry dry backs can lower the level of microbial activity in the soil. So it’s more of a timed thing.

In salts, it’s different… dry back no more than 20-30% due it being able to control the EC in the soil ( dry back with zero runoff = higher EC) ( runoff 10/15% = lower EC in media).
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
When root tips dry out, they essentially die off. Letting the substrate dry out too much is a sure way to cause problems. If you know the the water-holding capacity of your container you can know how much water the pot holds a any given time from the amount of discharge.

For example, say I have a 3-gallon pot that holds three 1000 ml cups of water. If I water with two cups and get discharge then I know one is still in the pot. If I water and it takes all three cups and does not discharge, then I know my container was dry because my water holding capacity took all three. If I add 1 and get discharge then my pot has 2 in it and shouldn't be watered at all.

AI
The root tip is where most water is absorbed due to the presence of root hairs, so when it dries out, the plant can't efficiently take up water from the soil.

As the root tip dies, new root growth is significantly impacted, leading to stunted plant development.
 

chilliwilli

Waterboy
Veteran
Usually i do a dryback 1-2 weeks after flip.
I grow in 90l concrete mixing tubes and let the first 2 inch get dry. Normally i won't let the soil get dry. Never tested it with a side by side.
 

tobedetermined

Well-known member
Premium user
ICMag Donor
I have been interested in drybacks in coco ever since I read this post from @gmanwho in an auto water thread here. I had budrot in my last two grows after 5 years of none so my ears perked up. He basically says that in a coco grow - even though it is hydro and it does require a constant supply of water and nutrients - you can still overwater the damn things - especially with bigger pots. It's all about the roots.
 

ChefGreen

Member
I have been interested in drybacks in coco ever since I read this post from @gmanwho in an auto water thread here. I had budrot in my last two grows after 5 years of none so my ears perked up. He basically says that in a coco grow - even though it is hydro and it does require a constant supply of water and nutrients - you can still overwater the damn things - especially with bigger pots. It's all about the roots.
Are your plants on risers or on a flat surface ( tent floor or similar)?
 

tobedetermined

Well-known member
Premium user
ICMag Donor
I have really thought about it and I think it is 2 things. I did not use Canna's Cannazym for these 2 grows. And I just threw water on daily . . . rather than thinking about it and watching (and feeling) the pots for moisture level. I think some sort of dryback - or near dryback - during flower could be important.
 

ChefGreen

Member
I have really thought about it and I think it is 2 things. I did not use Canna's Cannazym for these 2 grows. And I just threw water on daily . . . rather than thinking about it and watching (and feeling) the pots for moisture level. I think some sort of dryback - or near dryback - during flower could be important.
You are organic/synganic?
 

Rodehazrd

Well-known member
This year I took the advice of some I consider wiser than most and did dry back three weeks before chopping withheld all water. Runtz is new strains for me so anecdotal at best is my evidence but it got really potent and reflowered on top of the big buds like lace doilies. I’m doing that again this year!!
 

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