Tutorial DIY STS Mixing/Using Guide for Feminized Pollen/Seeds R.C.Clarke Method as Base

[Douglas.Curtis]

Glad you found it, and thanks for participating.

New pistils still forming is a good sign you have not used too much silver. Optimally we want a few new pistils forming alongside the male flowers. A tiny bit of ethylene is needed for the best quality pollen production.

Best of luck to you both

 

[QWETminus60]

Glad you found it, and thanks for participating.

New pistils still forming is a good sign you have not used too much silver. Optimally we want a few new pistils forming alongside the male flowers. A tiny bit of ethylene is needed for the best quality pollen production.

Best of luck to you both

Good thread dc, going to try the 1:9 STS method after reading countless STS articles.
Using all autoflowers:
GSC auto, Pineapple Express auto, & my favorite Tangie auto

Plants 11 days old & I suspect will apply STS around day 18 or 20 for 1st spray ( spray in semi dark area then no lights for 6 hrs ?) Will also turn the circulation fan off.

2nd spray 3 or 4 days later, aiming for 6 sprays till male pods show swelling

Now, I have read that sativa’s require more frequent spraying than Indica’s & keep spraying until approximately 10% of the pods are ready to burst open (this was posted by a Seed breeder) ?
Have you ever heard that before???

And if you have any good advice??? I am all ears, I will post my progress with pictures.

 

[QWETminus60]

Good thread dc, going to try the 1:9 STS method after reading countless STS articles.
Using all autoflowers:
GSC auto, Pineapple Express auto, & my favorite Tangie auto

Plants 11 days old & I suspect will apply STS around day 18 or 20 for 1st spray ( spray in semi dark area then no lights for 6 hrs ?) Will also turn the circulation fan off.

2nd spray 3 or 4 days later, aiming for 6 sprays till male pods show swelling

Now, I have read that sativa’s require more frequent spraying than Indica’s & keep spraying until approximately 10% of the pods are ready to burst open (this was posted by a Seed breeder) ?
Have you ever heard that before???

And if you have any good advice??? I am all ears, I will post my progress with pictures.

I wonder what day the big seed supplier’s start spraying STS on Autoflowers???
Apparently STS is what they use To make feminized auto seeds.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Best of luck on your adventures! Spraying that often will definitely put a lot of silver in the plants. Every 5-7 days is plenty, and be sure to stop spraying when you see pods forming. With luck you'll still have a few new pistils forming along the way.

I strongly recommend reversing full plants, then collecting, drying and storing the pollen for the next 10+ years in the freezer. That's the ultimate way to always have pollen at the perfect time to pollinate.

 

[Pawtz]

I ended up doing the last spray with not much dilution. I went full strength with maybe 10/20ml or so of extra distilled water. I was debating on adding soap, but went against it. I also noticed a few videos on youtube where some people wrapped gauze(?) or toilet paper(?) around the node and sprayed that so it stays wet @ a particular area. Not sure how many have tried that. Also read into gels that get dabbed on nodes which helps the solution to stay in that area longer. Didn't look much into that either. Just went with the good ol' fashion spray.

Looks like I may have something forming though. Waiting a little while longer before I call them balls.





I'm working with a few braches(around 6-8) and a clone.
Also waiting around week 3 before I start pruning/defoliation because it's getting out of hand. Already had to bend a few branches that were 6" or so from the light.

 

[Pawtz]

Going to put the brakes on posting until these fully develop, but it's for sure working. Not sure what goodies will come from it. Not trying to litter this thread with picture posts. So far things are looking good from what I can see.

My last post has the full grow picture at the bottom. The sprayed clone is in the top right and the sprayed branches are at the bottom right. For some reason they didn't shoot up and instead shot out horizontal for some reason.

 

[Pawtz]

Things are still looking good. Just hoping these produce some pollen and that the pollen will actually be of use.

It's nearing 3 weeks(2 weeks / 4 days). Hopefully week 3-4 is when the magic should be happening for mine. Is there anyway I can take a pod off now and see if there's anything inside? Not trying to stunt anything. I did notice Miraculous Meds posted that their plant started dropping pollen around 3 weeks and dumping it at 4.

I didn't start reversing the sts'd clone before the main female and I sprayed branches on the female I'm wanting to drop seeds. So there's a bit of a time constraint going on given that everything is in the same week of flower. I only have 1 grow tent so I couldn't flip/reverse something at a different schedule.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

In the future...

Flower out clones (you do this first). Collect the pollen, dry the pollen, freeze the pollen.

This way you have the pollen you want the instant the plant is ready to be pollinated.

 

[Element115]

Glad you found it, and thanks for participating.

New pistils still forming is a good sign you have not used too much silver. Optimally we want a few new pistils forming alongside the male flowers. A tiny bit of ethylene is needed for the best quality pollen production.

Best of luck to you both

Hi there, If I missed a few spots that still throw pistils on the same 95% reversed plant will those pollinated pistils still grow good usable seed ?
I just have to ask since I don’t know and obviously an amateur here.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

The pistils on missed areas have no effect on pollen viability. They will produce seeds just fine when pollinated.

 

[Pawtz]

In the future...

Flower out clones (you do this first). Collect the pollen, dry the pollen, freeze the pollen.

This way you have the pollen you want the instant the plant is ready to be pollinated.

For sure will do that next time. Would have to isolate it in a cardboard box w/ ventilation (+ no light leakage) for 6 hours before lights out and place it back in the regular grow box with the others. Rinse and repeat everyday for 2 weeks. Pain to do, but I don't have the space for an entire new grow area for multiple plants.

Hopefully this plant produces pollen and I don't need to mess about with the above. Still crossing my fingers.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Check out the micro grow section for ideas on tiny HID based grow boxes. Good things do come in/from small packages.

In time...

 

[Pawtz]

Things are coming along well visually. Not sure if any pollen will come from this. It's still towards the middle of week 3. Will try plucking some pods off around week 4 and see if there are any presents inside.

Still need to look through the thread and find out what process I should use for getting pollen out. I have a brand new grinder with a screen at the bottom. So I will place some in that any try to sift out pollen if they will actually drop pollen like that. Does anyone cut open the banana parts and try to get pollen that way? Not sure how surgical I need to be.

 

[Pawtz]

Check out the micro grow section for ideas on tiny HID based grow boxes. Good things do come in/from small packages.

In time...

I have a small grow box, but zero room for anything that requires electrical stuff except for maybe a few fans.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Simple dry and then rubbed across a fine screen to break open. Less silver next time, though you may still get pods that open a week or two from now (as long as the plant stays alive anyway)

 

[Pawtz]

Simple dry and then rubbed across a fine screen to break open. Less silver next time, though you may still get pods that open a week or two from now (as long as the plant stays alive anyway)

Is white pollen normal? It looks white on the banana things and after it's dropped off them.


I took some pods off. Some were already opened 100%, 50%ish, and some had to be coaxed a bit.





I hit 3 different areas of the plant. Will wait a few more days and start extracting more pods. Not sure if I should snip the branches off and place them in water. Not sure how to mature them better. Maybe there isn't a way. I also have a clone as well that I would love to take out and make more space in my grow area. Crossing my fingers.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

You have pollen for sure.

You can indeed snip branches off and put them in glasses of water over foil or glass for collection. However, the longer the branches stay on the plant, the more viable the pollen will become as the STS wears off.

 

[brickweeder]

maybe let the bananas yellow up more...they seem a bit too green.

 

[Pawtz]

I've been plucking nearly open and fully opened pods off left and right within the past few days. Some of the pod bananas things are yellowing a bit more. I've hit around 8 or so areas of the plants and have also just blown a bunch of pollen around hoping it lands on something that will take. So far no changes in pistils except for one hair that has turned brown/reddish (not sure if this is age related).

It looks white in the jar, but under microscope it's for sure yellow.

I pushed some pollen out of a jar onto a piece of paper to see if it was yellow. The raised bits are paper I believe.

 

[brickweeder]

@pawtx, on my past sts pollen runs, the bananas usually never got too soft and puffy like a normal male flower even though they would get yellow if I let them. When I harvested pollen from bananas the same color as yours (dry crush and strain the pods), the pollination rates were fairly low.

The sts flowers were mostly harder...like a somewhat unripe fruit. I was always afraid that the sts flowers would open up and pollinate the whole batch, but in retrospect, the sts flowers rarely opened by themselves for me...could be that I applied too heavily or too much (I would typically do 3 sprays 2-3 days apart, then force myself to be patient for the next 3 weeks). Now I wait until the pods are really yellow and I use tweezers to test their firmness....I equate firm pods that are not really yellow and do not readily open with low pollen viability...