Diy steel hoop house.

[Devoted1]

Hey Yuba, after setting up auto light dep, how are you gonna install the pellet stove? I'm trying to figure out how to do that, would save me a lot of liquid propane. Thanks buddy

 

[Oedipus]

bending steel

bending steel

I'm quite interested in building one of these models but am still confused how to bend the steel. Anybody know if theres business's that will bend the steel for a fee? Or is one best off purcahsing an electic steel roller.

 

[MJPassion]

http://www.hoopbenders.net/

 

[Chunkypigs]

Nice, thanks for the thread!

 

[Amoeba]

http://www.hoopbenders.net/

This lady has some decent vids on YT as well, she puts in the work

 

[VonBudí]

subbed

 

[Devoted1]

Also wanted to say please make a thread on the auto light dep, I will be needing it for the gh in June, thanks again yuba

 

[Deezl]

Definitely interested in the pellet stove/ventilation controller settings. Thanks for the thread!

 

[CrushnYuba]

Building greenhouses by yourself sucks. I usually do them with my one homey but he had some personal shit going on. What we can do together in 2 days, takes me a full week. Got plastic up and ladies in. Got it all ghetto rigged just to get them in.

Devoted 1:
For the pellet stove. Installing is pretty simple. Do it like a house kind of. I built a small 2x4 box so I could hook up the wall thimble to it. You just need a regular old pellet vent kit for a house, 2x4s and some osb. I have a solid north end wall so it's easy to mount the box to the endwall. I will do an auto light dep thread building a 20x60 after this one is done. I'll share some pictures today of an auto.

 

[CrushnYuba]

Deezle: you can buy fancy greenhouse controlers. They have ports for heat and fans that work off humidity, c02, and temperature. Basically the answer for everything is heating and venting. Do a Google search for "how relative humidity works" and for " dehumidify commercial greenhouse". It will explain better. Humidity is measured in rh. Rh is relative humidity. It's how much moisture is in the air relative to how much moisture the air can hold. The warmer air is, the more moisture it can hold. Let's say it's 40f out and 100%rh. You bring it in the green house and heat it to just 60f and the rh drops to 50%rh.
This is basically the opposite of how compressor dehumidifiers work. They work on dew point. They lower the temperature of the air so it can't hold as much moisture. Moisture condenses into water and runs into the bucket, then they reheat the air. All that is totally unnecessary in a greenhouse. It uses a ton of electricity, and puts off heat anyway.
I don't use a fancy greenhouse controller. I just have a seperate fan controller and I have a thermostat for my stoves. If the rh gets to high, it runs the exhaust/intake. The thermostat on the stove kicks on to keep the air the right temperature. I use a regular 25$ bi-metalic thermostat from a hardware store for stove.

 

[CrushnYuba]

Devoted 1: here's some pictures I posted in another thread on auto dep: I will do a more detailed build out step by step when I build the next auto system.

 

[who dat is]

Can you go into some more detail regarding the last two pictures you posted please?

 

[Deezl]

Thanks for the reply. I'm aware of humidity's inverse relationship with heat (which you explained nicely!) and I apply that indoors but I just can't quite visualize how it works in practice in a GH.

I have read other descriptions of the process you describe with the air being vented and heated at the same time but it seems like the dry air would just get vented out. Is there a limit on how fast it should vent or do the thermoset and humidistat settings complement each other? And what about when it's already warm in there (depped or otherwise) and it rains?

Maybe just let me know your fan size and thermostat and humidistat settings and I can visualize how they work together.

Ps I'm in Sonoma ca

Thanks again!

 

[Deezl]

My GH is 20x24 w 6' sidewalls w plywood ends and manual internal dep.
I built it last year but just used a combo of leaving the sides up and tucking inline fans under the sides, worked ok but I wanna get fan/heat/dehu/whatnot this year.

 

[CrushnYuba]

Whodatis: those are the motors and arms close up for cheap auto dep. Can automate your tarping for less then 1k. Here's a further out picture. It's all strapped down for the winter so I can't show you how it works in action, but check out utube for karmens greenhouses and emerald kingdom. They use same system.

 

[who dat is]

Whodatis: those are the motors and arms close up for cheap auto dep. Can automate your tarping for less then 1k. Here's a further out picture. It's all strapped down for the winter so I can't show you how it works in action, but check out utube for karmens greenhouses and emerald kingdom. They use same system.
View Image

Thanks for the reply

With this system do you get light leaks at the endwalls?

 

[CrushnYuba]

Thanks for the reply. I'm aware of humidity's inverse relationship with heat (which you explained nicely!) and I apply that indoors but I just can't quite visualize how it works in practice in a GH.

I have read other descriptions of the process you describe with the air being vented and heated at the same time but it seems like the dry air would just get vented out. Is there a limit on how fast it should vent or do the thermoset and humidistat settings complement each other? And what about when it's already warm in there (depped or otherwise) and it rains?

Maybe just let me know your fan size and thermostat and humidistat settings and I can visualize how they work together.

Ps I'm in Sonoma ca

Thanks again!

I figured you had an idea of how rh works. You bring up a great point. It doesn't work well when it's hot and humid out. Works well for most of norcal with the Mediterranean climate dry summers. Here, it is always at least a little cool when it is raining. Parts of Sonoma close to the coast can be harder because of the warm moist air coming off the sea. You just need to crunch the numbers with your climate to figure out if it works for you. For every 20°f heat rise, RH is cut in half I think it is.
You want to put your heat on your intake side and your exhaust on the other so you aren't venting out to much warm dry air. Fancy greenhouse controllers have brains and they cycle venting and heating and just figure out out. My way takes some dialing in. I try to have at least 2 exhausts fans. One of them I really under size. For you, maybe a 10" shutter job dimmed down low would work, not sure. I hook that to my humidistat. That way I'm venting slow and not venting out all my warm dry air.
Other thing that really helps is directional air movement fans on loop. It keeps humidity low and even when your humidity isn't ideal, your plants and the molds& disease that can form won't know it. With enough air movement, higher humidity is acceptable. How it feels to you is a better gauge then any environment guage. Air movement makes higher humidity feel less muggy.

 

[CrushnYuba]

Whodatis: if you do it right you shouldn't have light leaks. The end walls stay blacked out. You gotta put strips of panda film like a foot wide around the edges of the endwall so you get good overlap. It's like how people protect their greenhouse against air leaks when they do roll up sides just for light. You can use batten tape to keep everything tight if you are in a windy location just like roll up sides to.

 

[Deezl]

Thanks! That's interesting about the smaller fan.
So in the setup you describe, the big fan kicks in when it gets too hot and exchanges all of the air out quickly. The small fan and the heater/stove kick on when it's too humid and they exchange the air out more slowly.
And in Northern California it's usually cool enough that the heater/stove can heat up the air enough to dry it without heating it up enough to trigger the big exhaust.
(?)
And when its a hot enough day to trigger the big fan then it's usually dry enough not to worry about the humidity.
(?)

Thanks again

 

[CrushnYuba]

Deezle: you got it on all counts mang! It works for most places in norcal as long as your not right by the ocean.

Don't get to crazy undersizing the small fan. Maybe a 12. Definitely no bigger then 16. It's for air exchange. Not really cooling.