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Diy steel hoop house.

Zeez

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ICMag Donor
That looks like the way to go for large scale. It is allot of hardware.

For small scale, top rail construction, the hatch will be 12' long and 3' wide plus overlap. Four 3' hoop sections connected to the 12' rails with tee clamp connectors. That should be plenty strong. I found some waterproof 18" actuators in China for $60 and they have 750# lift or pull. Two of those synced should be plenty with a simple mounting system that's fully adjustable.

Doing it this way is cheep and the install is much simpler. One actuator would probably be enough and the DPDT z-wave controller is now proven.

This could easily be done large scale with separate vents. Contoller - same as the roll ups.
 

Bleiweis

Well-known member
Veteran
Damn, it's hard to keep up being a non-expert in DIY building and a non-native speaker. Too bad there are no "out of the box" solutions for this ridge vent. I certainly like the idea of passive/natural ventilation doing most of the work regarding airflow plus keeping the costs down.

It's a pitty there are no sketches/DIY plans on the internet regarding ridge ventilation with roll up technique. Not many people do it i guess.

It would be so much simpler if i could just hire one of you guys to build it out for me. Too bad you're overseas!
 

redlaser

Active member
Veteran
Ridge vent seems ideal if it seals up tight and opens easily, seems like a solar exhaust fan would accomplish the same thing.
Fan would probably cost a little more but the install seems easier. Still depending on electrical parts to run it, but also with opening a ridge vent.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Damn, it's hard to keep up being a non-expert in DIY building and a non-native speaker. Too bad there are no "out of the box" solutions for this ridge vent. I certainly like the idea of passive/natural ventilation doing most of the work regarding airflow plus keeping the costs down.

It's a pitty there are no sketches/DIY plans on the internet regarding ridge ventilation with roll up technique. Not many people do it i guess.

It would be so much simpler if i could just hire one of you guys to build it out for me. Too bad you're overseas!

Use something like this to open it when the greenhouse warms up. Then just make a section that can be lifted up by it. It will open when it gets warm and close when it cools off.

https://www.amazon.com/Univent-Auto...ocphy=9052016&hvtargid=pla-305024214708&psc=1
 
If there is hard rock everywhere where I’d be looking to put my greenhouse in what would the solution be to get the base footings in the ground? Jackhammer lol? I tried putting up a 16x48 last year and ended up giving up cuz of all the rocks 1’ under the ground. In late March I’m gonna make a 24x80 I’m super stoked.
 

CrushnYuba

Well-known member
Rolling ridge vents are super easy and require no fabrication. With some roll lock it locks tight against wind and seals air tight. Cheap, easy, automated on thermostat, smart switch or whatever.

Smokinfat: how bad is the rock really? I had a ridiculously rocky spot that we just built a wooden box and fixed it to the ground with shitload of rebar and concrete form stakes. Super windy spot on a straight cliff. You may have to rent a tractor for the day to put in footings. An excavator only costs $300 a day. Hopefully you or a friend has a 3/4 ton truck to pull it. Otherwise delivery of the machine can be more then the rental. That's why i could never own a toyota truck.
 
There’s a ton of lava rock everywhere. After I made this post I watched a YouTube video of emerald kingdom building a straight wall gh and using rebar and building wood up then bolting to the wood. Maybe I’ll try that if I can’t get the steel top rail into the ground. I haven’t tried going into the ground where I cleared a spot for one I’m going to build but pretty much everywhere on my land is rocky as hell and I’m expecting a super hard time. My truck can tow around 8k lbs not sure how much excavators weigh.

I’ll try to get some top rail in the ground before I do anything else. I can’t wait to go out there and start working on things. Got a lot of wood to saw and more trees to clear out then just get the house built. I got a buddy whose gonna help me and neither of us have any building experience really. I’ve read this thread a few times and had to look up words you used and also watched bootstrap farmer’s how to build a hoop house vid. Doesn’t look too hard really. These foot posts are gonna be my biggest challenge I’m thinking.
 

GOT_BUD?

Weed is a gateway to gardening
ICMag Donor
Veteran
There’s a ton of lava rock everywhere. After I made this post I watched a YouTube video of emerald kingdom building a straight wall gh and using rebar and building wood up then bolting to the wood. Maybe I’ll try that if I can’t get the steel top rail into the ground. I haven’t tried going into the ground where I cleared a spot for one I’m going to build but pretty much everywhere on my land is rocky as hell and I’m expecting a super hard time. My truck can tow around 8k lbs not sure how much excavators weigh.

I’ll try to get some top rail in the ground before I do anything else. I can’t wait to go out there and start working on things. Got a lot of wood to saw and more trees to clear out then just get the house built. I got a buddy whose gonna help me and neither of us have any building experience really. I’ve read this thread a few times and had to look up words you used and also watched bootstrap farmer’s how to build a hoop house vid. Doesn’t look too hard really. These foot posts are gonna be my biggest challenge I’m thinking.

If you have access to a decent sized air compressor and power, use an air powered post driver.

If you're completely off grid, use a hand powered post driver and stay hydrated.
 

CrushnYuba

Well-known member
I have seen the emerald kingdom videos. They use concrete form stakes. You can do it just like that but it isn't enough. Use the form stakes to get the box laid out and where you want it.. But to prevent the wind from lifting it, use rebar pounded into the ground DIAGONALLY and fixed to the wood box with strapping.
I got the idea from that emerald kingdom video. I built one of their greenhouses years ago. Just concrete form stakes alone didn't seem to be enough. Concrete stakes are easy to attach to wood because they have holes but they are smooth so they can be pulled it of the ground easily. Rebar is ridged and pounded down at an angle makes it a good anchor.
I would much rather have pounded pipe ground stakes or footings. But if the ground is too rocky and you don't feel comfortable operating a machine, the above works.
A mini excavator weighs about 7k lbs. The trailer is heavy also though. Some 1/2 ton trucks could pull it. But every rental companies i know of won't let you pick it up without a 3/4 ton truck.
 

CimbaKat

Member
CrushnYuba. Whatd the whole GH cost ya? Whats it cost with like dep and without? Plan on building a GH for hemp this coming season and wanna prep over winter.
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
I have seen the emerald kingdom videos. They use concrete form stakes. You can do it just like that but it isn't enough. Use the form stakes to get the box laid out and where you want it.. But to prevent the wind from lifting it, use rebar pounded into the ground DIAGONALLY and fixed to the wood box with strapping.
I got the idea from that emerald kingdom video. I built one of their greenhouses years ago. Just concrete form stakes alone didn't seem to be enough. Concrete stakes are easy to attach to wood because they have holes but they are smooth so they can be pulled it of the ground easily. Rebar is ridged and pounded down at an angle makes it a good anchor.
I would much rather have pounded pipe ground stakes or footings. But if the ground is too rocky and you don't feel comfortable operating a machine, the above works.
A mini excavator weighs about 7k lbs. The trailer is heavy also though. Some 1/2 ton trucks could pull it. But every rental companies i know of won't let you pick it up without a 3/4 ton truck.
Now you tell me. lol
picture.php


I had poles 2 feet in the ground and this happened. Twice. It ended up in the bush 150 feet away.

I won't be doing that again. :laughing:


.
 

CrushnYuba

Well-known member
hg-sga_1.jpg


See how this anchor has rebar diagonally in different angles. You don't need the fancy brackets. Just a piece of Simpson strap will do. I don't think it's as good as a simple pipe banged into the ground or footings, but as a last resort it will work. It won't be as stable. But you won't have it fly away like tychomonolyth's. I had cheapo temporary structures end up in trees before.
 

Bleiweis

Well-known member
Veteran
It looks like the hoophouse thingy is actually going to happen here. I really hope everything will pay-off since i live in a pretty humid area where i have regular problems with mold. Closing/sealing things down otherwise sounds counterintuitive.
Exhaust fans, HAF and heating are otherwise all included in my greenhouse plans...i hope i won't lose this battle! The whole thing being a big flop would sadden me.
 
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Bleiweis

Well-known member
Veteran
Any advice on odor control? I currently can't find any "big" carbon filters i that i could hook up to my exhaust fan. Most of these are the right size for small indoor grows...i'm searching for something that could handle let's say 2000cfm.
 

CrushnYuba

Well-known member
I have only seen odor control on a very very small greenhouse. Done the same as an indoor grow. Greenhouse fans are axial. They push large amounts of air at low pressure. They won't push through carbon really.
2000 cfm is pretty small though. I usually don't see greenhouse fans under 10,000 cfm. Are u sure that will be enough to cool your greenhouse in the summer? Greenhouses get way hot compared to an indoor grow of the same size.
 

Bleiweis

Well-known member
Veteran
First of all thanks for chipping in!


I think my greenhouse qualifies as a small one. 13ft wide x 16ft long x 10ft tall. Based on this calculator (https://www.littlegreenhouse.com/fan-calc.shtml) about 2000 cfm should do it! I'm currently looking at a 3500 cfm direct drive axial fan (always go bigger, right?). I have to keep the odor neutral because of the neighbours etc. Unfortunately growing here is not legal yet.


I though there's a work around for these carbon filters...i see that these big ones (2000cfm+) are really expensive! There's no DIY option that you guys could recommend? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


EDIT: damn...if i have to go with radial fans things get expensive real quick! Radial fan+carbon filter that would work at 2000-3000cfm go for 700-800 euros (almost 1000$). Makes my eyes water.
 
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redlaser

Active member
Veteran
It’s possible to do odor control with a high pressure mist system treating the exhaust air. I set one up last year based on a guy I saw doing it on insta gram. He sets them up for greenhouses but started in the landfill treatment business. ncmenv on insta., look about 30 pics from last post to see an exhaust setup.

That guy wants 5k for like a 10 head spray system, so I built my own.
Anything less than 100 psi and your wasting time, 200-250 is better. 200 is considered high pressure, and 100 medium.
1/2 hp electric motor will hit 100 psi, (with a re circulating loop) 1 hp to hit 200 psi.

Can use pvc for 100 psi. Mines only 100psi and has 7 mist heads per 57 inch exhaust.

Will look kind of funny if it’s in full view, like a half ass fog machine, but it does actually work.
 

CrushnYuba

Well-known member
Redlaser: that's pretty interesting. What kind of odor reduction are we talking? I have misters inside the greenhouse for temperature control. When i was hunting down mist parts online, i did see mist systems advertised as odor control, but there was an odor neutralizing chemical mixed into the water. I don't really care much about odor control, but maybe for inspections it would be cool.
I'm pretty sure there is some diy carbon instructions somewhere on the internet. All you need to do is make a housing to hold carbon. I'm not sure how big your greenhouse is. But you need allot of inline fan to cool the smallest greenhouse, especially pushing through carbon.
 

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