315w LEC are super nice. Better penetration than anything besides a de hps, awesome CRI, real uv, and moderate heat. And you can really pack them in if you want. Just saying.
DIY leds Discussion Thread for all your how tos and doubts and anything related
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Aristoned
Active member
jonesfam7715
Well-known member
I didn't worry much about amperage being a problem these at max will barely reach the typical 350ma and the circuits can handle much more than the 1400ma , I should check each diodes amperage to make sure they're even tho.For parallel wiring, maybe it's an idea to wire like this for a more even distribution of power:
Just like when wiring parallel batteries.
The key is prolonged/chronic exposure. Avoid that and you're fine. Remember that it's a byproduct of all animal life, including us filthy animals.
This debate keeps coming back up, like a zombie...HID for life
They come in different color temperatures; which was your preference? They weren't merely metal halide; they were ceramic metal halide, which were a lot more stable and lasted a couple of years vs standard metal halide lifespan of maybe 6 months for growing.
Also, they were about 30% efficient on magnetic ballast and 40% efficient on LFSW, that's Low Frequency Square Wave ballast, the kind that has to have 240V. They sold cheap low frequency electronic ballasts too, for those who didn't know the difference.
Now, here's where this gets interesting and relevant to the current conversation; they may only be 40% efficient at delivering PAR but functionally the rest of the output was heat in one wavelength or another. Lots of IR relative to PAR. I think that's why they work so well.
Personally, having grown with both (and many others), I prefer LED but as discussed earlier, I run 37.5W/ft² of COB LED light AND I use 80 degree lenses to focus the light onto the canopy. I really think light intensity is important and not having enough light on the plants is a big part of why people end up questioning the efficacy (as opposed to efficiency) of LED lighting.
Because I think the comparison is useful, especially in this conversation.Why would you post about an archaic metal halide in the LED section?
Ca++
Well-known member
It's changed it's name to LEC. It's new again
TBH, in a 4x4 the 315 (2.1umol/w iirc) with 100w of LED in each corner, might be alright. However, @Aristoned just physically saw, and had to react, to what the plants actually think about high energy photons. The plants had to employ avoidance. The opposite of shade response. The UV cancelling the FR's signalling.
iirc the high energy photons (shorter wavelength) undo the work of the lower energy one's effectively. It's a more important survival instinct, to not have oxidation like problems. It seems our plants like a lot of light, but want it in reasonable sized mouthfuls. So oxygen production and thus disposal is manageable. That's the oxygen from the h2o, released during photosynthesis. Perhaps making seed becomes pointless, if oxidation products are getting in them.
This seems rather negative, but such effects can be leveraged. The inverse relationship between yield and potency perhaps. More immediate use, is to limit stretch. If that were a problem worth suppressing growth over. Or the hunt for the holy grail. A plant that produces more sticky icky as sunscreen.
It's low power lighting choices that make individual plant or even branch lighting possible. So we can run a few scenarios in a small space, and if something is really that bad we stop doing it, then it's a good thing we didn't have 1000w of it.
I should really think about some UV, as I just had an RH fail with the weather, at 2 weeks, and put an extra foot on that I didn't want. I'm actually tempted to get the scissors out, rather than net it down into a 2D grow. If only I had some UV I could of held them down with..
TBH, in a 4x4 the 315 (2.1umol/w iirc) with 100w of LED in each corner, might be alright. However, @Aristoned just physically saw, and had to react, to what the plants actually think about high energy photons. The plants had to employ avoidance. The opposite of shade response. The UV cancelling the FR's signalling.
iirc the high energy photons (shorter wavelength) undo the work of the lower energy one's effectively. It's a more important survival instinct, to not have oxidation like problems. It seems our plants like a lot of light, but want it in reasonable sized mouthfuls. So oxygen production and thus disposal is manageable. That's the oxygen from the h2o, released during photosynthesis. Perhaps making seed becomes pointless, if oxidation products are getting in them.
This seems rather negative, but such effects can be leveraged. The inverse relationship between yield and potency perhaps. More immediate use, is to limit stretch. If that were a problem worth suppressing growth over. Or the hunt for the holy grail. A plant that produces more sticky icky as sunscreen.
It's low power lighting choices that make individual plant or even branch lighting possible. So we can run a few scenarios in a small space, and if something is really that bad we stop doing it, then it's a good thing we didn't have 1000w of it.
I should really think about some UV, as I just had an RH fail with the weather, at 2 weeks, and put an extra foot on that I didn't want. I'm actually tempted to get the scissors out, rather than net it down into a 2D grow. If only I had some UV I could of held them down with..
Aristoned
Active member
I won’t get into this here, I’m no animal. I’m an organic sentient being, The Creator has plans for me.
The issue with CO2 is what it does to your body and cells, elevated CO2 will encourage cancer where elevated levels of oxygen kill cancer cells. Also, large amounts of sugar do the same.
Aristoned
Active member
I thought this was for LED and not HID.
Either way, I’m not interested in HID if I can get IR from incandescent and halogen. Even the UVA can be supplemented by LED’s now. Based on what I’ve seen you don’t need much at all.
This Kush hates UVA.
jonesfam7715
Well-known member
Yes, I had to know what made it tick lol. The casing is your heatsink that's why hlg work so much better than the xlg. And you should be able to mount them on that qb style heatsink to manage the heat better, the light I've been working on taking apart was built like this, 2, 320 watt drivers bolted to the heatsink.
Aristoned
Active member
The XLG is out-performing the HLG for me.
Even the XLG-320 is more efficient than the HLG-320 on 120V.
The only XLG I don’t like is the 100W, that thing sucks @ 100%. So, the answer is to get the 75W or the 150W or find another 100W driver that doesn’t lose efficiency @ 100% load like the HLG-320/XLG-100.
I’ve built the XLG’s to be “hot-swappable” so I can plug-in multiple drivers to a single luminaire independently. I’m using the same drivers on my EB3 Slim’s as my Gen 8/7 Vero’s.
Cheers!
Aristoned
Active member
Look at the datasheet id say. Output vrs power (id prefer more than 50% in that top top seems to be around 70%) and low thermal resistance coefficient, this last one helps you figure out how much hotter the diode is compared to the heatsink.
Generally, if its been made in the last couple of years and in a cree 3535 footprint its likely to be at least decent enough for the around 1$ people seem to charging.
Another thing you can do its to check the fluxbins: are they generally quite tight in that low/mid/high flux bin is reasonably close? Again a good sign.
Ive used viosys, LG and yin feng with good results.
Thats true, My bad man, like I was putting words in your mouth.. I try my best not to assume, or listen to the voices that only tell me what I "expect" to hear, but still get caught up sometimes..
They are telling me the electric bill would go through the roof though, If I was growing up here in the house in a tent or wherever, and had to keep an entire bedroom or the living space upwards of 85+ degrees to also keep the LED lit grow space the same temp, instead of just using strategically placed incandescent spot lamps that only heat the footprint I want it to, and uses far less energy.. That, or the cost to completely remodel parts of the house. Adding more insulation & sealing it off, which is out of the question for most hobby growers or renters. I don't grow in the house though, or share the same space with plants (just reptiles, thanks to incandescent flood lamps and UVB bulbs), so I do have the option of cranking the heat up if needed to test my new LEDs, but rather just run more HIDs if it comes down to it..
Aristoned
Active member
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I'm really not all that big a fan of sealed gardens either (or even a closed off room) , unless there is the proper equipment to scrub the stale air, which cost another small fortune to setup the right way, in my book anyway.
No offense to anyones products, but yeah..
I prefer fresh incoming filtered air at all times (just like outside, where 400ppm co2 grows huge monsters no problem), even at the cost of heating the atmosphere to some extent ( which is no where near as bad if utilizing HRV/ERV, or geothermal\heatpump tech!), for the freshest product, free from all the particulates that otherwise contaminate the air in most houses/structures. The air is always multiple times worse inside buildings, unless your maintaining a high class clean room.
I'm the guy that always has his window down when driving, even in the winter down the freeway. I was also somewhat forced to work entire winters out of a metal shop with no insulation in the past, and relied on propane burners that were probably pushing the levels up to 30-40k ppm c02, and had to breath it in for 8 hrs or more a day, so yeah I probably am a little biased. I'm not closing up the doors and windows to a room and being claustrophobic when working just so LEDs will work. Not without that warm golden inefficient glow to supplement them anyway, which is kind of inviting actually. Almost like some long lost natural instinct, to crawl down in a cave with torches on the walls.. That I can do
No offense to anyones products, but yeah..
I prefer fresh incoming filtered air at all times (just like outside, where 400ppm co2 grows huge monsters no problem), even at the cost of heating the atmosphere to some extent ( which is no where near as bad if utilizing HRV/ERV, or geothermal\heatpump tech!), for the freshest product, free from all the particulates that otherwise contaminate the air in most houses/structures. The air is always multiple times worse inside buildings, unless your maintaining a high class clean room.
I'm the guy that always has his window down when driving, even in the winter down the freeway. I was also somewhat forced to work entire winters out of a metal shop with no insulation in the past, and relied on propane burners that were probably pushing the levels up to 30-40k ppm c02, and had to breath it in for 8 hrs or more a day, so yeah I probably am a little biased. I'm not closing up the doors and windows to a room and being claustrophobic when working just so LEDs will work. Not without that warm golden inefficient glow to supplement them anyway, which is kind of inviting actually. Almost like some long lost natural instinct, to crawl down in a cave with torches on the walls.. That I can do
The newer LEC lighting is not the same as CMH
I wasn't talking to you.Why would you post about an archaic metal halide in the LED section?
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