We should talk about light movers sometime. I was there and did some crazy shit.
DIY leds Discussion Thread for all your how tos and doubts and anything related
- Thread starter Thread starter Rocket Soul
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Aristoned
Active member
Aristoned
Active member
Was it you with the one in a circle on the bicycle gearing?
I read about that somewhere.
Neferhotep
Active member
Where are you from? In my country the Netherlands it's also illegal.
Both my moving lamps things were also built from bicycle parts and wood
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Aristoned
Active member
Where are you from? In my country the Netherlands it's also illegal.
Both my moving lamps things were also built from bicycle parts and wood
View attachment 19171407
Ah, Niederländer. I’m from the US.
It makes sense. I’ve never been at that square footage yet to need one.
Ca++
Well-known member
If we are going to light the lower regions of our plants, could we use a different colour to that above. Is there a leverage option, not yet exploited.
There is little to say what known plant responses, apply to our plants specifically. Many are about canopy penetration, so could be very relevant
There is little to say what known plant responses, apply to our plants specifically. Many are about canopy penetration, so could be very relevant
Sure enough was!
No ones gonna pull their hand back out of Budzilla's grow tent with all 5 fingers.No one is gonna pinch your sack if you have a monitor lizard on duty!
Speaking of light movers..
I have an extra 12v 8a rail on my ATX PSU not being used..
Should I install 2 rotary beacon light motors along with 2x 35w Xenon arc tube HID headlight bulbs (with the anti UV coating removed?) somewhere towards the center of my LED fixture, so they spin 360 degrees and blast the plants with 12,000k+ ultraviolet rays?
Has anyone ever tried supplementing HID or LEDs with xenon arc bulbs yet?
just got one in had a few cheap ass small ones messed around for veg purposes but never start to finish with a good one. any tips or issues i should know about or problems you see first timers screwing up on before i send it?
If you want to supplement UV why not go led? These xenon lights have very little uv, like maybe 5-6% pf 35w. I doubt ot would be enough to make a big impact. Uv leds from 385-405nm are efficient and easy ro acquire.View attachment 19171667 View attachment 19171668
Speaking of light movers..
I have an extra 12v 8a rail on my ATX PSU not being used..
Should I install 2 rotary beacon light motors along with 2x 35w Xenon arc tube HID headlight bulbs (with the anti UV coating removed?) somewhere towards the center of my LED fixture, so they spin 360 degrees and blast the plants with 12,000k+ ultraviolet rays?
View attachment 19171677
Has anyone ever tried supplementing HID or LEDs with xenon arc bulbs yet?
View attachment 19171691 View attachment 19171695
Aristoned
Active member
I’m using 75W of IR and 75W of UVA.
There is a massive difference for me flowering under 4000K 80CRI strips @ ~113W (~500 ppfd).
Lots of very strong stems, strong smell, and the buds are already starting to swell and I’m not even two weeks into flowering.
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So you more than doubled the wattage of light by adding 300W of combined blue/UVA and red/IR? I'm not surprised that you saw a big difference!
Aristoned
Active member
I each bulb is rated to 75W each for a total of 150W. With the LED’s off it is miserably dark in the tent, I’ll post a photograph tonight.
Even though the incandescent consume more power they produce far less photons of light, but the wavelength being produced is impossible by LED.
My hypothesis is that the plants need far less 660/700 than we think and adding real IR “activates” plant metabolism.
The sun produces far more “green” light than red or blue, and seeing the results of “blurple” LED panels has lead me to believe that “green” light is more important than everyone else thinks.
My current experiment is proving me right so far. Just using the 4000K 80CRI strips provides very close to “daylight” while the UVA/IR completes the “ends” of the spectrum.
@Neferhotep I'm looking at some halogen IR tubes since they have a form-factor that fits better for the next build. I found an agricultural supplier that has reflectors and 250W IR tubes. I figure I could find something smaller to supplement. For now, I don’t see LED as a source for IR, a burning filament is the only way to achieve photo-radiant heat.
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@Aristoned I need to see someone run the IR vs just running ambient temps warmer head to head because warmth accelerates metabolism.
Aristoned
Active member
From your advice I increased the temperature to 85° with the UVA/IR combo, the heater is still setup to maintain an absolute minimum temperature and only runs once or twice a day to maintain 75° ambient temperature. This way my home is comfortable to me and the tent is comfortable to them, I also don’t need to run a 1,500W heater when I have 150W of incandescent.
Savings of a factor of 10.
The temperatures are basically the same (84° with heater, 85° with UVA/IR) but the response is MASSIVE.
With my hand under the LED’s I feel no heat, with my hand under the UVA/IR I feel heat. The sun produces plenty of IR and the plants just love it. 150W of incandescent for one plant seems to work fine, I’m going to side-by-side the UVA and IR to see if I need both or if the UVA can be replaced with more IR. I suspect the UVA will be best for the first and last weeks and the IR best for the weight-gain weeks.
Aristoned
Active member
@Rocket Soul - 2700K 97CRI (x3)
I can push these up to 210W, I’m thinking they may end up around 150W. I have three drivers I can use with these:
240W
200W
150W
Each driver has different maximum outputs and different efficiencies. When I figure out which one does the trick I will go that route, then I can always go higher for CO2.
My drivers are setup to be plug-and-play so I can easily move everything around and swap drivers between arrays for testing. This way I only need one of each driver to test multiple configurations.
Also, I’m fixing all of my backwards potentiometers.
I can push these up to 210W, I’m thinking they may end up around 150W. I have three drivers I can use with these:
240W
200W
150W
Each driver has different maximum outputs and different efficiencies. When I figure out which one does the trick I will go that route, then I can always go higher for CO2.
My drivers are setup to be plug-and-play so I can easily move everything around and swap drivers between arrays for testing. This way I only need one of each driver to test multiple configurations.
Also, I’m fixing all of my backwards potentiometers.
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Neferhotep
Active member
Very nice looking connectors. What brand is that?
Very neat.
Edit: found it. It's Evoges.
Very neat.
Edit: found it. It's Evoges.
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Aristoned
Active member
The splice connectors are very nice, the plug-end was just something I had lying around until I get an actual plug-end.
I picked up a C13/C14 extension cable (PC power supply cable) then cut 12” from the exposed end to attach to the fixture and 36” with the shielded end to the driver. That way I don’t have to worry about exposed wires with 100V/DC dangling. It also makes it very easy to swap drivers or just hang the luminaire without a cable hanging off. Just getting those two hooks on can be a challenge.
