DIY leds Discussion Thread for all your how tos and doubts and anything related

[Aristoned]

Pulled the quote over here to respond on a couple of things:
When doing strip builds with low current per strip (bxeb are perfect for this) there is one really good advantage to the series connection with higher voltage constant power drivers: it gives you great flexibility for future modding of the light. Since youre already pretty much running 700mA if theres a bit spare voltage on the driver you can always add in monos in series on the circuit. Say you wanted to add a red supplement: just buy a bunch of monos (even aliexpress cree footprint 3535s are good enough to be considered nowadays for experimentation, they tend to not cost more than 1$/€); attach the diodes to your frame and connect in series and you have your red sup. Or UV for that matter. You would have to get handy with a soldering iron though, but this is no biggie: i curse myself for not doing it sooner as it was both easy, had very direct impact on crop quality and was generally a blast to have done once you saw the changes in smells and growth.
Say you wanted to have this as an option for when flowering with the light? But not on in vegg? Again doable, just add a switch or wago connector before the monos in the string so that you can short the circuit directly to minus pole on the driver and your back to white only. If you dont know exactly what you want to do with your spectrum, how much of uv or red would be good to add, this gives you an excellent way to experiment and not be locked in on your decision since you can always go back and get the same total output from the driver. This would be a much more complicated thing if you were doing the parallel connection approach.

I’m more interested in the 2700k 90 CRI for the red spectrum and the 4000k 80 CRI for the blue spectrum. Currently, I have 12x 590mm in the 4000k 80 CRI spectrum for the main vegetation luminaire. For the flowering fixtures I have 12x 3000k 80 CRI and 3x 4000 CRI, this gives me the opportunity to space the strips by the delta of the intervals to achieve as close to a uniform canopy as possible.

If I had known the 2700k in the 90 CRI were so good I would have purchased those instead. For now, I’ll be using the 150W for veg and two 240W for flower. What I like about these strips and my builds are the flexibility of the out-put as well as the scalability of the coverage.

With the Bridgelux strips all I have to do is build another one and it will fit perfectly. The first flower fixture will fit in the 2x2.5 and two fit in a 2x4, four fit a 4x4. If I want to, I could use one 4x4 tent to run a perpetual grow with a 2 week cycle under 960W of illumination.

For now, I’m just concerned with getting the vegetation and flowering environments tuned-in. Then I will expand to a 2x4 to have a monthly cycle so I don’t have to worry about running out when I need it most.

UV isn’t something I’m very interested in any longer. My goal now is to attempt to produce as close to sunlight as I can with a lean on red for stem elongation and overall yield. Experiments conducted with UV have been unreliable as different genetic strains will react differently. I don’t have that much time left to get into that, at least for the foreseeable future.

Cheers!

 

[Rocket Soul]

2700k 90cri: im not sure if im over hyping them but i do like them very much for flower. But having lower blue content it means that they can be slightly harder to grow with, you need tighter controlled environment to make sure the plants drink properly. Imo: nicer flower response but easier to get deficiencies if your plants have problems maintaining a nice leaf boner (the main indicator of good transpiration which is the engine of nute uptake).

UV: i know about the studies but have tried it fairly extensively myself, in side by side manner and combined with several different base spectrums.When it comes to near uv (around 400nm) im very decidedly positive. Theres a taste/smell aspect on it which is very hard to translate into a study/research paper : its just a better experience on your nose, mouth and lungs. Each one to their own but i wouldnt skimp on trying it just because of papers, the real deal in the grow is extremely convincing. Any blind test ive run the plain white (control condition) could be picked out by all participants. Each one to their own but ive done it nd in practice it does convince especially when paired with a low blue/low green/high red spectrum

 

[Aristoned]

2700k 90cri: im not sure if im over hyping them but i do like them very much for flower. But having lower blue content it means that they can be slightly harder to grow with, you need tighter controlled environment to make sure the plants drink properly. Imo: nicer flower response but easier to get deficiencies if your plants have problems maintaining a nice leaf boner (the main indicator of good transpiration which is the engine of nute uptake).

UV: i know about the studies but have tried it fairly extensively myself, in side by side manner and combined with several different base spectrums.When it comes to near uv (around 400nm) im very decidedly positive. Theres a taste/smell aspect on it which is very hard to translate into a study/research paper : its just a better experience on your nose, mouth and lungs. Each one to their own but i wouldnt skimp on trying it just because of papers, the real deal in the grow is extremely convincing. Any blind test ive run the plain white (control condition) could be picked out by all participants. Each one to their own but ive done it nd in practice it does convince especially when paired with a low blue/low green/high red spectrum

I respect your effort and the time it took you to do that work, thank you. I found some strips made from Samsung LED’s.

Here are a few photographs I took of the designs I will be implementing this month and next. The blank strips are all 4k 590mm, the rest are as shown in 590mm. Scaling from the 2x2.5 to the 2x4 is simple, it looks tight but each fixture is at a different elevation. The plants will simply be moved from one side to the other after a four-week cycle.

I’m still looking for the 2.7k 90 CRI, I will mix them with the 4k 80 CRI as I am currently doing with the Vero’s and the EB Slims.

Again, thank you for everything you have done. I might actually work with UV like I was planning to after all!

Cheers!

Edit: following your advice I implemented a revision for UV strips using Samsung LED’s in the 385nm and 400nm wavelengths. There are also strips available in the 660nm and 720nm wavelengths. Based on the information you have provided, my current design would benefit from the Emerson Strips as well as the UV strips. I think I will have to find a way to make the mounting removable to I can use the Emerson strips in mid-flower and the UV strips in late-flower.

 

[Rocket Soul]

I respect your effort and the time it took you to do that work, thank you. I found some strips made from Samsung LED’s.

Here are a few photographs I took of the designs I will be implementing this month and next. The blank strips are all 4k 590mm, the rest are as shown in 590mm. Scaling from the 2x2.5 to the 2x4 is simple, it looks tight but each fixture is at a different elevation. The plants will simply be moved from one side to the other after a four-week cycle.

I’m still looking for the 2.7k 90 CRI, I will mix them with the 4k 80 CRI as I am currently doing with the Vero’s and the EB Slims.

Again, thank you for everything you have done. I might actually work with UV like I was planning to after all!

Cheers!

Edit: following your advice I implemented a revision for UV strips using Samsung LED’s in the 385nm and 400nm wavelengths. There are also strips available in the 660nm and 720nm wavelengths. Based on the information you have provided, my current design would benefit from the Emerson Strips as well as the UV strips. I think I will have to find a way to make the mounting removable to I can use the Emerson strips in mid-flower and the UV strips in late-flower.

I cant really say about those growdaddy led strips, theres not really much info on actual output. 400+ 385 seems like a good combo, ive tried 400 + 365 in 2:1 proportions with very good and reliable results. 365 seems to be a very bioreactive wavelength, googling stomata aperture action spectrum was somewhat on inspiring in my choices of what uv to use. Nature tends to reuse the same wavelengths
I also think its a good idea to make sure you have a somewhat tapered output; the deeper you go down into uv wavelength the less output. Similar to nature. But honestly just staying at 400nm was enough to get a noticeable difference. The best is if you can somehow run side by sides in the same space, thats the bedt way to convince yourself of difference in taste.

When in it comes to mono leds: i really recommend staying in the 3535 footprint, those strips are something different, maybe 2835? Not sure. The 3535 footprint has enough size to get decent components for the led die: even the generic china leds i got in this footprint tested really well in output, just a tad under original crees/osrams. Voltage was a slight bit higher but still good enough efficiency not to draw down efficiency from the white leds. This type of led could even be sourced on aliexpress, just make sure you get the right type of diode cause every diode from the last 20 years is on sale over there. You can pm me if you have doubts about which but i cant post links here, must respect TOS. Aliexpress has some of the best rates from china when it comes to shipping and will probably beat most stuff in bang for buck unless you buy 100+.
Why the ledstar diode with soldering and not get strips? Well it guves you the flexibility to set up the spectrum in any way you want, do post tweaks etc.
Do not fear the soldering iron, i just got the diodes and figured it out thru doing and a splash of youtube. Its as easy as tinning the solder pad, tin the wire put the two together and apply the solder iron again. Youll likely fuck up one led on the way but at 1$ its still a bargain for a new skill and complete independence from being forced to buy what ever strip are out there.

 

[Rocket Soul]

Emmerson effect: to my knowledge its quite marginal when using higher than 150 ppfd total. Added far reds on one fixture and felt i got very little back. In any case if you want maximum emmerson effect you should go for 680+730.

On the other hand I got other friends who swears by using far reds + 660 reds in flower. So hard to know.
The science seems to point towards 640+660 for red supplement, hitting both chloro a and b. The 90 cri spectrum hits close enough to 640 to be useful for this.

Edit: forgot to add: bridgelux vesta strips are generally quite available, features both 2700k and 5000k 90 cri in the same strip. The gen3 has bxeb efficiency, gen 1 is a lot lower. Gen2 is no use, its for home decoration.

 

[Aristoned]

I cant really say about those growdaddy led strips, theres not really much info on actual output. 400+ 385 seems like a good combo, ive tried 400 + 365 in 2:1 proportions with very good and reliable results. 365 seems to be a very bioreactive wavelength, googling stomata aperture action spectrum was somewhat on inspiring in my choices of what uv to use. Nature tends to reuse the same wavelengths
I also think its a good idea to make sure you have a somewhat tapered output; the deeper you go down into uv wavelength the less output. Similar to nature. But honestly just staying at 400nm was enough to get a noticeable difference. The best is if you can somehow run side by sides in the same space, thats the bedt way to convince yourself of difference in taste.

When in it comes to mono leds: i really recommend staying in the 3535 footprint, those strips are something different, maybe 2835? Not sure. The 3535 footprint has enough size to get decent components for the led die: even the generic china leds i got in this footprint tested really well in output, just a tad under original crees/osrams. Voltage was a slight bit higher but still good enough efficiency not to draw down efficiency from the white leds. This type of led could even be sourced on aliexpress, just make sure you get the right type of diode cause every diode from the last 20 years is on sale over there. You can pm me if you have doubts about which but i cant post links here, must respect TOS. Aliexpress has some of the best rates from china when it comes to shipping and will probably beat most stuff in bang for buck unless you buy 100+.
Why the ledstar diode with soldering and not get strips? Well it guves you the flexibility to set up the spectrum in any way you want, do post tweaks etc.
Do not fear the soldering iron, i just got the diodes and figured it out thru doing and a splash of youtube. Its as easy as tinning the solder pad, tin the wire put the two together and apply the solder iron again. Youll likely fuck up one led on the way but at 1$ its still a bargain for a new skill and complete independence from being forced to buy what ever strip are out there.

They are out of stock on the 660/730 strips, so I will wait to hear back from them through email.

These slims are too good to give up the extra inch, I’ll be sticking with slims since the 1/2” profile really seems to fit my needs.

Soldering is no problem, I picked up a Weller soldering station the other day, it was on sale for $100! Man, this thing does everything I want and then some.

If I can find the EB3 Slim in the 90 CRI 2700k I will pick up 2’ & 4’ strips. I can’t seem to find them right now.

 

[Rocket Soul]

They are out of stock on the 660/730 strips, so I will wait to hear back from them through email.

These slims are too good to give up the extra inch, I’ll be sticking with slims since the 1/2” profile really seems to fit my needs.

Soldering is no problem, I picked up a Weller soldering station the other day, it was on sale for $100! Man, this thing does everything I want and then some.

If I can find the EB3 Slim in the 90 CRI 2700k I will pick up 2’ & 4’ strips. I can’t seem to find them right now.

I made all my solders with a 17e solder iron it doesnt have to cost a fortune. I recommend it to anyone, to be able to play around with any diode you want instead of begging people to make a custom strip is a great relief. I also rec checking out 4up diodes, it removes a lot of the extra soldering since you can do 4 diodes with just to points soldered.

 

[Aristoned]

Here are three photos of the main vegetation luminaire. The first is on 50%, second is 100% and the last is the 150W veg next to the 100W veg.

This fixture should be under-driving at 150W generating no heat from the LED’s.

Cheers!

Edit:

Specifications:

(12) Bridgelux EB Gen 3 Slim 590mm 4k
XLG-150-L (350mA - 661mA)
20ga solid core copper wire
50/50 dimming (50k resistor + 50k pot)
1” x 1” x 1/16” Aluminium angle

The strips are wired in series for a maximum approximate voltage of 228V.

 

[Neferhotep]

The first is on 50%, second is 100%

I see no difference?
You have to use same shutter speed, aperture and ISO
How do you attach the strips? With glue? What glue?

 

[Aristoned]

I see no difference?
You have to use same shutter speed, aperture and ISO
How do you attach the strips? With glue? What glue?

The photo shows fine on my phone, for some reason the website must have lost something. There is a noticeable difference, not nearly as much as the over-driven version, this one will be very soft and it should be very evenly distributed across the canopy.

I used thermal tape. Make sure to look at the prices!!!

I won’t post a link, but the retailer has 25’ of tape for $16 and the same exact retailer has 25 m of tape for $8.

Read that again.

 

[Neferhotep]

I use Würth WE-TTT.
It is rather expensive though.
So an alternative would be welcome.

 

[jonesfam7715]

Thermal tape is fairly cheap, but I recommend being careful of Amazon and ebay suppliers, read carefully what you buy. I got some that was thicker than expected and didn't work as well. I use MG chemicals thermal glue off Amazon for higher powered shit, works very well, little pricey

 

[Rocket Soul]

The bridgelux strips, especially some vestas i used, have a tendency to arch upwards on the end due to the traces if left out in the open. They looked like a banana from the side,sort of. I tried both tape and glue and it wouldnt stick until i drilled screws into the ends. Spent ages on that bloody problem. If you buy them and they come in packaging keep it in there and dont leave them out.

 

[Neferhotep]

660 nm strips
not wired up yet.

 

[Aristoned]

660 nm strips
not wired up yet.
View attachment 19161148

It is so difficult to find those I’m actually considering manufacturing my own LED strips.

 

[Rocket Soul]

660 nm strips
not wired up yet.
View attachment 19161148

Cutter electronics?

 

[Aristoned]

Cutter electronics?

Just found those an hour ago.

Google sucks!!!

We need a new search engine, Google is dead AF.

 

[Neferhotep]

Yes from Cutter and these will have to ride along on the other aluminium profiles I have hanging up.
The strips are 25 mm wide and only thin wire fits in the small connectors. I soldered speaker cable to the thin wire. Speaker cable is rated 50 volt so these cables should handle 36 volt well enough.

 

[Aristoned]

Yes from Cutter and these will have to ride along on the other aluminium profiles I have hanging up.
The strips are 25 mm wide and only thin wire fits in the small connectors. I soldered speaker cable to the thin wire. Speaker cable is rated 50 volt so these cables should handle 36 volt well enough.

View attachment 19161846

I decided to go with the 20ga solid copper wire since it seemed to work across all of the Bridgelux emitters. Some may accept 18ga, but I won’t wire anything that 20ga cannot handle.

I’m anxious to see how well they perform.

 

[Neferhotep]

I decided to go with the 20ga solid copper wire

In your system 10 strips form a luminaire. The luminaire is connected to the world probably with flexible cable.
In my system every strip is a luminaire in it's own and needs flexible cable.
These connectors - Molex Lite Trap - can handle AWG 18 max.

I will post a pic as soon as they light up