Too little is made out of this point; being able to exactly plan a light for your space and height restrictions, even designing in multiple drivers so that you can perfect even spread by running edges and corners on a separate driver. Ive made some special designs like that and they been surprisingly usefull.
The far red and UV channels are usually measured in MAR, as they are merely morphologically active. So they have an impact on your plants overall growth structure. So for example, plants in the shadow get more red light, as it has a larger wave length. So those plants need to create bigger leaves and stretch out a little more, as they think they're in the shadow.
Reds are not more abundant in shadows, though far reds are (together with green). Reds are usually taken up mostly by top cannopy.
I like Sanlight for their approach but it seems somewhat hamstrung by the RGB thinking: RGB is something that we imposed on the science by using it for reasearch but its not at all clear that all reds are equal; is a huge peak of 660 really the same as a wider band of red with peaks in 630/660/680 with the same amount of red energy? In my experience its not.
I have tried to damage the leaves of plants from below with UV (B=12%, A=20-30%) and after several growing attempts, I have increased the UV dosage every other day to full power for the whole day, and I hardly see any damage occurring to the growth. Occasionally, I have tested 8-10 hours straight for a whole week to see if I could cause any damage, but only the lowest leaf tips are taking just little damage, and I'm not even sure if UV is causing it... The distance of the UV lamp to the lower leaf is 30-40 cm. UV given from below, not from above.
Blues and especially UV is very phototropic; it shows the plant where the sun is. Giving UV from below seems very counter intuitive.
Darn, thank you very much. I did try Google but I have eye issues and struggled to make out those characters.
No worries
Like I said, doesn't have to be the exact same one, most lamps come with 0/1-10V potentiometers, so you can just grab any and wire it to your lamp.
You can give it a try without desoldering step - Potentiometer Repair - element14 Community
Make sure the pot is 100K ohm, assuming that it only dims one driver.
I did not check ohm rating before purchasing this item:
The connector supplied by chill led doesn't use soldered connection. The leads are held in the connector by screws. I can post a pic interested.
I think it will work, there isnt info on the page. But it should work, its 100k ohm for one driver, or 50k ohm for dimming 2 drivers. This one seems to have pwm, the standard pot is usually not more than a $ or 2.
Thanks for the info. The potentiometer is scheduled for delivery today. I'll let you know how it goes.'I think it will work, there isnt info on the page. But it should work, its 100k ohm for one driver, or 50k ohm for dimming 2 drivers. This one seems to have pwm, the standard pot is usually not more than a $ or 2.
Please, if you have any leds built by yourself or any flowers grown under your DIY, please post it
Id love to grow out Kali Mist but our 9 week schedule wont allow for it. My fav weed was Y Griega, KM x Amneisa.
The potentiometer arrived today. Just connected and working better than original. Thanks again.
Looking at Nepal jam x Kali china from ACE, sounds like a similar vibe at 8 weeks.
