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DIY led growlights - Builds and Results

Rocket Soul

Well-known member
As the title says, post your builds here if you'd like to show them off, even better with some harvest results. You can give as much or as little info on the build as you like but more is always better, especially if it explains why and how you built it in the way you did :)

Ill start with my Bridgelux lights:
These are made from 2 separate alu sheets of 3mm, 40x65cm for an approx 1.5x0.6m spread (basicly a 5'x2') joined together at the back by alu T profile.
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Each side sheet contains:
- 16x Blux eb gen3 2 foot strips, connected in 4 parallel string with 4 strips in series each. This is done to make connections easier (and even so we had to tape up that rats nest of wires in the middle and on the sides :ROFLMAO: ) A note on these strips: they kinda suck working with. Flimsy and easy to break connectors that wont take 1mm stranded wire. But the 0.75mm wouldnt work neither as it was too soft for pushin connectors. So manually resizing every wire going into the strips from 1mm stranded down to .75mm was not something i enjoyed very much. Theres 4 of these lights and i ended up having to resize wire 288 times before finished.
- strips are 2700k 90cri, at the time this was the only strip from a reliable manufacturer that offered this spectrum which has been my love since we started with the Vesta strips. Its probably the reddest white diodes youll find around with almost 50% output in reds and far reds. The diode count for 2 sheets is around 3500.
- one xlg150M driver per sheet for 300w per light, not a great driver match i noticed later on but it works.

- then the monos, here not wired or soldered yet: 2 strings of various reds and blues. Tried to achieve wide band coverage from 365-400nm and 660/680/730. Output is close to 50-50 over reds and blues. 4 strings in total for the 2 sheets.
The monos come in custom 4up ledstars (avoid all the soldering and mounting or at least 4x less work with this). Strings run down the side of the board and then turns back thru the middle gap so that each string takes one of those middle diodes, making it 5x4 diodes per string, 2 string per sheet and 4 strings per light. Its kinda like an "exotic blurple", i know some of you are frowning but its not yesteryears blurple, all diode choices are targeted based on plant centric action spectrum and such. Anyways each string has a voltage of approx 55V, and runs at nominal 350nm when turned up full power, using a xlg240H driver for the 3 lights ive got up. So approx 40w per sheet/80w per light. With separate dimmers you can control balance between white and blurple pretty well.


For results id have to refer to Piechos nice photo session: https://www.icmag.com/posts/18660809/
The tricome density talks for itself, though we didnt get the big buds we were after on the first run of these new strains, it was our mistake to not account for quicker flower cycle of these new genetics. We were 10-14 days to late on light and nute ramp up on these, but the other 9 week cut turned out nice and chunky. The smell and high was excellent but its worth noting that some of our other tuned up lights dont get the same quality boost at least not in my nose, seems like the choice of white diode matters some aswell as what you add to it.
 

Swamp Thang

Well-known member
Veteran
A lot of ingenuity went into that setup, Rocket Soul. For technically challenged mortals like me, however, who have far less knowledge about grow light design than would be required to create a scratch-built lighting rig, I found a simple yet effective way to prevent my cheap no-name-brand Chinese-made grow lights from overheating due to prolonged use. My indoor growing is purely for mother plants that are not allowed to flower so I can take clones year-round.

I bought three grow lights for my 4ft by 8ft grow enclosure and connected them to three separate timers. The timers are set to run each light for one hour on followed by an hour off so that the lighting is provided by each light working in turn for one hour. I also have a fan connected to a timer that toggles it on for one hour, and off for the following hour, since I have found that continuous fan operation is not essential for healthy plant growth.

Everything shuts down at 10 pm and resumes operation by 5 am the following morning, which gives the plants 16 hours on and 8 hours off as the cycle that ensures the plants remain in vegetative growth while I take clones that are grown in dixie cups filled with pure worm castings that I found to be a phenomenal medium for luxuriant clone growth.

Anyway, that is my cheapskate no-name-brand setup for any tightwads out there who aren't knowledgeable enough to fabricate DIY grow lights as demonstrated by Rocket Soul above, yet are not willing to fork over the cash to go with a reputable name-brand lighting system for their grow room.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-known member
A lot of ingenuity went into that setup, Rocket Soul. For technically challenged mortals like me, however, who have far less knowledge about grow light design than would be required to create a scratch-built lighting rig, I found a simple yet effective way to prevent my cheap no-name-brand Chinese-made grow lights from overheating due to prolonged use. My indoor growing is purely for mother plants that are not allowed to flower so I can take clones year-round.

I bought three grow lights for my 4ft by 8ft grow enclosure and connected them to three separate timers. The timers are set to run each light for one hour on followed by an hour off so that the lighting is provided by each light working in turn for one hour. I also have a fan connected to a timer that toggles it on for one hour, and off for the following hour, since I have found that continuous fan operation is not essential for healthy plant growth.

Everything shuts down at 10 pm and resumes operation by 5 am the following morning, which gives the plants 16 hours on and 8 hours off as the cycle that ensures the plants remain in vegetative growth while I take clones that are grown in dixie cups filled with pure worm castings that I found to be a phenomenal medium for luxuriant clone growth.

Anyway, that is my cheapskate no-name-brand setup for any tightwads out there who aren't knowledgeable enough to fabricate DIY grow lights as demonstrated by Rocket Soul above, yet are not willing to fork over the cash to go with a reputable name-brand lighting system for their grow room.
The whole point of this thread is for people to see what can be done and that most diys are really easy. If you can push a cable into a hole and follow ikea instructions you can DIY yourself into a nice light that does what you specifically need from it.
It really excels at tackling issues like low hanging height, uncommon grow room size and its the only real option if you cannot find the light that does what you want from it. I started cause it was too expensive to go for brand bought here 6-7 years ago. I continued since my buddy keeps on asking for more gear, with higher quality results.
By now there is an abundance of cheap and expensive lights but very little outside the already established HE standard: Cold white diodes white 660 reds. Maybe the slightest dollop of far red and uv but never enough to actually say what it did for the grow.
DIYing for lower price is probably moot nowadays, but diying for functionality is very much relevant.
 
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Cree photophyll 2835 (50/50 2.5GBR/3GBR)
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Osram Optimal 640nm

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Osram Optimal 660nm

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Osram Optimal 730


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Pcba layout.
King field electronics help whit gerber file . I find them thru alibaba and was very pleasant for first time experience. Customer service did great job.

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Pcba and assembly was also done by King Field Electronics.

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10x660nm, 6x640nm, 2x730nm
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Ooops. Can only post 10 picture at once. Will drop more later ✌🏽
 

Rocket Soul

Well-known member
View attachment 19019239



View attachment 19019243
Cree photophyll 2835 (50/50 2.5GBR/3GBR)
View attachment 19019244
Osram Optimal 640nm

View attachment 19019254 Osram Optimal 660nm

View attachment 19019249
Osram Optimal 730


View attachment 19019257
Pcba layout.
King field electronics help whit gerber file . I find them thru alibaba and was very pleasant for first time experience. Customer service did great job.

View attachment 19019258 Pcba and assembly was also done by King Field Electronics.

View attachment 19019259 View attachment 19019268 10x660nm, 6x640nm, 2x730nm
View attachment 19019262
Ooops. Can only post 10 picture at once. Will drop more later ✌🏽
Very nice, 3 channels? Redspread/730 and what whites are you using? Photophyll but in what spectrum?

Whats the end goal with these pcbs, what are you mounting them them to?
Whats the driver solution look like?
 
Very nice, 3 channels? Redspread/730 and what whites are you using? Photophyll but in what spectrum?

Whats the end goal with these pcbs, what are you mounting them them to?
Whats the driver solution look like?
Dual channel. Red and white.

Cree doesn't tell specific spectrum with these. Only blue and green ration and 20% red ppf. My ques is they are between 5000-6500k CRI 70.

I bought aluminum profiles from Alibaba, but next time I might bend them myself from 1mm aluminum.

Led driver is HLG 600H 20A


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also using UV. I killed thrips with a UV lamp from below so they could go to the lamp and die. It attracted the adult thrips well. My first experience with thrips💩.
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First led grow
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3x3 foot tent
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Rocket Soul

Well-known member
Dual channel. Red and white.

Cree doesn't tell specific spectrum with these. Only blue and green ration and 20% red ppf. My ques is they are between 5000-6500k CRI 70.

I bought aluminum profiles from Alibaba, but next time I might bend them myself from 1mm aluminum.

Led driver is HLG 600H 20A


View attachment 19019361
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View attachment 19019364 also using UV. I killed thrips with a UV lamp from below so they could go to the lamp and die. It attracted the adult thrips well. My first experience with thrips💩.
View attachment 19019366
View attachment 19019367

First led grow
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3x3 foot tent
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Very very nice! Love the uv application, i do led for uva and uvb but thats all the same. Once you start thru the DIY route it seems almost impossible to keep those extra channels away from your build, lol.
 
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negative37dBA

Well-known member
Veteran
I decided to make the switch to LED because the technology had finally outpaced the traditional MH and HPS lights. I love DIY and so I searched for something I could build myself. I loved the design Fluence lights so I wanted that style. Spine with arms type setup. I found Pacific Light Concepts strips and they fit the bill perfectly. It was nice that Greengenes on the tube had some step by step tutorial vids on how to build and what you need.
I went with a dual driver, 660 watt, 8 arm build.
Here are the spines all assembled. Used thermal tape and m3 screws to attach to the sinks.
led spines.jpg

The sinks.
sinks 1.jpg

2 meanwell drivers getting wired up.
meanwells 2.jpg

Fully built and working with dimmers.
led finished build 1.jpg

LM301b samsung whites and cree 660 NM reds. This thing rocks!
I have done about 10 or more runs with it. It works perfectly. I had a blast building it and I know every part in it and how to replace or fix it.
Hung her over my undercurrent system and we are off and running. It works well!
legss led1.jpg

glue budfs 33.jpg
led grow full 4.jpg

I am VERY happy with it. Been running for 4 years or so now no issues.
Good thread idea sir.
Here is a link to my full build thread on this light if you want all the details and full size pics here on IC mag.
660 watt led build
Hope you all have great days!
Peace, negative.
 

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Rocket Soul

Well-known member
I decided to make the switch to LED because the technology had finally outpaced the traditional MH and HPS lights. I love DIY and so I searched for something I could build myself. I loved the design Fluence lights so I wanted that style. Spine with arms type setup. I found Pacific Light Concepts strips and they fit the bill perfectly. It was nice that Greengenes on the tube had some step by step tutorial vids on how to build and what you need.
I went with a dual driver, 660 watt, 8 arm build.
Here are the spines all assembled. Used thermal tape and m3 screws to attach to the sinks.
View attachment 19019799
The sinks.
View attachment 19019800
2 meanwell drivers getting wired up.
View attachment 19019801
Fully built and working with dimmers.
View attachment 19019802
LM301b samsung whites and cree 660 NM reds. This thing rocks!
I have done about 10 or more runs with it. It works perfectly. I had a blast building it and I know every part in it and how to replace or fix it.
Hung her over my undercurrent system and we are off and running. It works well!
View attachment 19019803
View attachment 19019804 View attachment 19019806
I am VERY happy with it. Been running for 4 years or so now no issues.
Good thread idea sir.
Here is a link to my full build thread on this light if you want all the details and full size pics here on IC mag.
660 watt led build
Hope you all have great days!
Peace, negative.
Great build and i love those heatsinks. Do you have a link for them? Is it for 25mm strips?

Worth mentioning re GGs strips: while theyre not available anymore i think GG is having some company fit them in their lights (apollo rings a bell? Not sure)
In any case cutter electronics have clones of those strips, same type of pcb layout but you have multiple diode options. I have 36 of them hanging over 2m2 but in 2700k 90cri base white :) still going strong after many years, but they didnt start to shine properly until i tweaked their throw; from 1.5m wide down to 1.3m. this was enough to up the intensity and improve that tray a lot.
Also props for nice plants, ill get to the rest of my diys eventually.

Edit: checked out your build thread, its cool 😎. Checked the dates and lolled; by may 2020 i was also stuck inside building lights, after being thru all other covid pastimes. It was much better than baking, drinking cheap whiskey and nursing my last little bit of smoke i had available :)
 
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Tynehead Tom

Well-known member
have not fiddled with electronics in many years but I am really thinking about getting into the DIY LED game.
I have a 7.5 x 7.5 ft flower room I would like to completely revamp with LED lighting that gives optimal coverage wall to wall. With traditional lighting the room requires 2800 watts of HID lighting to reach 50 watts per sq foot. I run it with maximum 2x 1000w but can only really do that over the winter or it just gets smoking hot and I don;t run AC.
I have an HLG 600Bspec veg light that easily replaced the 1000w halide I usually used and I am happy with that but I want to build out an LED system that will provide optimal flowering spectrum and coverage in that room. I should probably start my own thread though as I will need input from the knowledgeable folks here to even get started on the what/where and how to go about sourcing and building.
 

negative37dBA

Well-known member
Veteran
Thanks for the nice comments. As for the sinks I got them from PLC. They were made specifically for them. Not around anymore. The sinks are for the 25mm strips. Another option which Gene used later was 80/20 channel to mount the boards. Nearly the same heat dissipation ability. Plus it gives you the option of a 2 screw mount which eliminates any twisting issues you may have.
Hope there is not issues with links to youtube. Here is my exact light built step by step. Gene is a smart guy and knows his stuff. Lights and nutes this guy is a pro.
660 watt DIY LED build
DIY is bad ass. You get better quality and it is EXACTLY how you want it.
My plants from a couple days ago. Day 16 flower. GG4 clone only under this LED.
IMG_8868 - Copy.JPG
Hope you all have a sweet day.
Peace, negative.
 

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Rocket Soul

Well-known member
have not fiddled with electronics in many years but I am really thinking about getting into the DIY LED game.
I have a 7.5 x 7.5 ft flower room I would like to completely revamp with LED lighting that gives optimal coverage wall to wall. With traditional lighting the room requires 2800 watts of HID lighting to reach 50 watts per sq foot. I run it with maximum 2x 1000w but can only really do that over the winter or it just gets smoking hot and I don;t run AC.
I have an HLG 600Bspec veg light that easily replaced the 1000w halide I usually used and I am happy with that but I want to build out an LED system that will provide optimal flowering spectrum and coverage in that room. I should probably start my own thread though as I will need input from the knowledgeable folks here to even get started on the what/where and how to go about sourcing and building.
Make a thread and start tagging us diyers, we like to help people over to the Darkside :)

Since youre not covering the entire room in cannopy youd need a lot less than 2800 watts even if going with HPS.
 

doc_loomis

Well-known member
Beautiful clean setup! 💪🏼

What controller you use? I'm dreaming about IoT... electricity rate api and DLI together
Thank you. I've written a python controller, that controls my VPD right now. And also exports metrics about my tent, controls the nutrition circulation pump and so on. It's running on a raspberryPi in a kubernetes cluster. I'm also using an instance of the same software to control my prototype DIY cannatrol.
You can check my german grow report to see it all in action :)

I want to build out an LED system that will provide optimal flowering spectrum and coverage in that room.
The german shops I know have simulators for their modules/strips, so you can simulate your build. The cre.science shop, where I got my strips from, has a really awesome simulator. You can enter your room specs and arrange the modules to simulate your room.
Here are some examples from my build. I fed the values from the simulator into my python controller accordingly.

Pasted image (4).png Pasted image (3).png Pasted image (2).png Pasted image.png
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-known member
Ill go with next build, one that i put in a lot of effort and that slightly disappointed me.

This is the 3x4ish light i built for a friend.
14 strips of 450 diodes each with some red 660 mixed in, 4k white base. 2x 240 drivers for strips. I went thru all the extra effort of setting up uv and far red channels, even 15 uvb diodes. It did yield well, but only about as good as plain white fotops. But my main gripe with it was that all extra channels didn't seem to do anything for potency or quality :\ at least to my taste and head. Some good things came from the build: i learnt how to stop being worried about soldering, its really a doddle. And i learnt that adding extra channels; the amount of response the plants will give to the light depends somewhat of what white base spectrum you start out at. Right now its still in the flower room but is somewhat of a "control" light: i use the bud under this as a baseline to compare other lights. Oh well...
IMG_20230813_170752.jpg
 
I plan to design a new PCBA during the summer with small improvements and possibly newer LEDs.
I can also share the Gerber file and Bill of Materials details here on the forum.

Feel free to suggest the length, width, number of channels, and spectrum for the PCBA
 

doc_loomis

Well-known member
Looking very interesting 🤔 you got me hooked! Now I have to take some time and translate your report 🐼
Haha, sorry for that, I'm thinking about doing the next one in English :) That one was merely for getting things automated properly, as I'm regularly gone for a week or two and everything has to take care of itself. I've got everything automated so far up to automatically mixing the nutrition (which I already have a device ordered for) and adjusting the lamp height. I also ordered a smart curtain motor for the latter, maybe I can come up with something :)

The lamp from the pics will be used in my next grow.
 
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