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DIY CO2 PPM Controller

bartender187

Bakin in da Sun
Veteran
I believe you got it.. but it should be switching the hot circuit.. its labeled common as in the common wire for NO/NC circuit... not common as in neutral.
 

pico

Active member
Veteran
Are you positive on that? It makes sense to me, I just am hesitant to hook the hot wire up to my ppm-3. I guess it would only have as much power going through it as the CO2 generator was using, which is minimal.
 

bartender187

Bakin in da Sun
Veteran
I was hesitant on that as well.... thats why I got that extra relay rofl... Tellyou the truth... nope im not, a PM to sandman/thorodee/badmf would solve it. Dont take my word for it. but my reasoning behind is along the same lines are yours...
 

bartender187

Bakin in da Sun
Veteran
I was able to find this pico-
You must not connect the relay to any voltage higher than 24 volts
or more than 2 amps. If you have to switch line voltage rather than
a 24 volt solenoid or fan, then I would recommend adding a 24 volt
transformer and 24 volt relay that has heavy duty contacts...Radio Shack.

If you have one that needs recalibration or you want use to test your
unit it is very inexpensive.

Sideball eh? I dont understand how that PPM-3 is switchin 24v... I swear it looks as if its switching line voltage.



I see that there is only two wires coming from that piggy back, but does it feel like there are more after the point circled? There might be some connections made there.
 
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pico

Active member
Veteran
Interesting.

Yeah there is a little bit going on inside that cord where you have it circled. I am not sure what. Maybe I will see if I can get some info out of CAP tomorrow. I have a feeling they aren't going to want to tell me the details.
 

bartender187

Bakin in da Sun
Veteran
Figured out that some of those generators (only specs I was able to get where from a european model) have a 120-24v transformer and the switch naturally runs on 24v...

Im goin to call up Telaire and see what they have to say.
 
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Einsteinguy

Member
Hey bartender187

Nice work ! I would like to help. I have been working on a similiar design.
I was going to use 24V DC power supply. To power Telaire 8000 and power Co2 bottle relay. A second relay is neccesary only if the Co2 release relay needs more current than the Telaire can provide. What is the voltage and amps of your Co2 bottle relay . I would not hook 120 volts to telaire in any way.

Einstein :wave:
 

bartender187

Bakin in da Sun
Veteran
Thanks Einstein.... Wonderin how the CAP-3 is able to switch line voltage then... or do they have some form of transformer inside that piggyback wire... You say you wouldn't hook up 120v to it... however as long as my solenoid is not drawing more than .4 amps (telaire can handle 2 amps at 24v... so .4 amps at 120v).... I should be fine hookin up line voltage to it? All the Co2 Solenoids and CO2 generators I have seen have run off line voltage... not sure the exact specs on them.

BTW- The Controller I built in this thread works perfectly.... just tryn to cut some corners on these other couple I ordered... I am not able to set the ambient CO2 level like the CAP controllers.... Doing the steps mentioned by pico takes me a to a Zero-Calibration process.
 
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2buds

Active member
Hey Folks, Just my interpretation I built for a co2 controller. Used the telaire 8001 model. First I cycled the telaire off/on with the lights but had issues with it not liking the on/off all the time scenario. Readings would get hung/freeze or something so I then went with a 24/7 power supply for the telaire and used a 24v coil valve in the co2 line which is cycled with the telaire relay and powered by a sprinkler timer(24v output) so it only has power during lights on. Worked like a champ till I broke the telaire,(they don't like water) now I just run the valve with the timer. I shoot 4.5 cubic feet of co2 into my grow each 11 hour light cycle through a flowmeter allowing 2cf/hour to flow. The timer has cycle/soak so I cycle on 30 minutes out of each hour. I'm a cheap bastard, run a sealed environment and I only try to keep co2 levels replenished not flooded. I try to get 2 months out of a 50lb cylinder.





So far its working, bugs have been my biggest problem, I guess I bring them in with me from the yard or they come in my bags of soil. Who knows but the mites are tough.

Anyway, point is, you can get a 12v or 24v valve that will work with the same volts the telaire requires to operate. Skip all the extra steps of relays and 120v plugs and stuff. Either way you have to have a regulator for your co2 tank skip the extra parts and pieces. No disrespect intended here just ideas.


This is still setup like this with a flowmeter added behind the red valve to slow down the flow.

I inject my co2 directly into the ductwork which blows straight in my rooms. I hope the co2 rains down over the plants. Hope I haven't hijacked you and this helps give someone some ideas for ways to Get-R-Done.

Peace


 

bartender187

Bakin in da Sun
Veteran
Thanks for teh post 2buds, only advantage I see of adding the extra relay is the ability to use the 120v CO2 generators. But yah, I can see advantage in goin the route you mentioned... Still doesnt answer my question on weather or not these puppies can switch line voltage... guess Im just goin to have to guinea pig my 8002.
 

2buds

Active member
I want to remember reading they weren't rated for high voltage. All I see in my book is what you stated 2A max @24vac. I would call the manufacturer on that one. That's what they're tech support gets paid to do. When the thing runs on 24v, even though the the relay is a separate entity in the unit that's still a lot of volts for the little unit. Good luck b!

And man, I should've started out by saying nice work up top. :respect:
 
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Einsteinguy

Member
Hey bartender187

I have to agree with you on the power transformer it is allot easier than a DC power supply I was going to use.

I did some more research and since the output relay contacts can handle 24V at 2 amps you can run 120V at .4 amps. The problem is the relay will spark from Turning on and off an inductive load like a solenoid is. It is better to use 10.00 relays between Talaire and solenoid so it takes all the abuse. If it fry’s so what replace it instead of $300.00 Telaire unit.

Also I would add two fuses to circuit to protect the Telaire. One between transformer and Telaire on AC+ line (.15 amp) and the other on Relay out (2amp).(.5 amps if you use line voltage)

If the solenoid shorts the relay will take the hit and cook if no relay then at least have fuse. If your use relay, then fuse is still important because relay coil might short and you would still have the same problem to many amps going through the telaire.

I can draw a schematic of your project if you want.

Einstein :wave:
 

bartender187

Bakin in da Sun
Veteran
Cool beans Eisteinguy, Ide like to incorporate those fuses into my unit, if you get a chance please draw up a schemtic.
 

Einsteinguy

Member
Hey bartender187

Here is the schematic. I made some miner changes. I decided to use the [relay normaly closed] pin 5 to controll relay. The way you have it works, but if fuse blows or Telaire the Co2 relay will be stuck on losing all Co2.

Hope this helps.

Einstein :woohoo:


 

bartender187

Bakin in da Sun
Veteran
nice change, goin to pop open my unit and make those changes....Definately see the hazard with a CO2 generator being on non-stop.... thanks again Einsteinguy, that schematic makes my thought process so much clearer.
 

caretakerb

New member
This is a great thread bartender, so good I had to try it. I ordered a ventostat 8001. It came with a plug in 24vac transformer in the kit. Unfortunately I don't see any markings for polarity on the transformer. Is there a simple way to determine polarity if it's not marked
 
G

Guest

However you decide to control it,its a must for good results.By controlling I dont mean controlled by a cyclestat timer,a setpoint controller is a must for productive co2 enrichment.You want co2 fluctuations of no more than 200PPM from setpoint.
 
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