Questions on spectrum, I really do not know much about what will go deeper through flower/canopy. I hope to find out in time though.
Discussion about factors affecting the purchase of a light
- Thread starter Mars Hydro Led
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Questions on spectrum, I really do not know much about what will go deeper through flower/canopy. I hope to find out in time though.
With the new light design, leaving an extra pigtail or two may be useful for people who want to add red or blue bars.
I was thinking a pigtail power cord, where you can plug it in the ballast, then plug the power cord for the ballast in the other side. I would want some sort of strong wire clamp to keep them together, to eliminate the risk of fire from a loose connection. The ballasts would be rather small, since we're talking about 100w or less, right?
No. Red has the least penetration.
Due to this being a pot plant, rather than say a piece of glass, It's green that's both of use, and penetrates the deepest.
Of the colours we use, it's UV that actually gets in furthest. It's a stress response though, and Hg free sodiums are unlikely to be relying on it.
we were also thinking about it.
I'm not agreeing that LEDs grow buds that are immature inside. I have found LEDs to produce more useful bud out of the light, than HID. I believe the HID plants stretched out the main leads further, giving a less even canopy. This meant the stretched out branches produced a longer bud. There was some knee jerk reaction to not seeing these long buds that caused talk of penetration issues. While the denser canopy wasn't recognised until the weigh in. Simply a resistance to change, that made people see what was missing, not what was gained. Human nature stuff. People are not rushing back to HIDs.
The covid problem has pushed LED research away from better lights, towards making better medical emitters. I'm talking UVC LEDs, where there has been a lot of movement in the market. These are not only dangerous to plants though, they are very damaging to us also. These lights kill stuff. I hope the technological steps taken will effect the UVA and UVB emitters though. Where the damage done is easier to regulate, or in fact, non existent
The LEDs you use matters quite a bit due to variance in the spectrum produced. I just finished a run with differences in the thicker flowers. I'm assuming it is spectrum and not power related, at least with the flowers directly under the light. I expect lower light levels in the corners and ends of my box.
Distribution of power is quite similar to the data they post, but you gotta keep an eye on hanging distance. If you keep your light closer, the corners would actually be the most powerful. Cause more chips there, designed to work at about 25-30 cm away from plants or whatever recomended hanging distance is. Keep them too close and the ppfd may vary wildly over the canopy. Finding the sweetspot for your environment and experience is very important. Not everyone can keep plants as happy at same/various ppfd levels. The better you are as a grower, the happier the plants will be, even up close, cause the intense light and high vpd in those tops will make any nutrient lack or imbalance show instantly.
Quite correct usually, but my cab is longer than than the designed light I'm using. I should have been a bit more clear, my apologies.
If there is an extension cord or longer cord available to allow the driver to be located further away from the light, it would have allowed me to use it in the other tent. Remote mounting the driver outside the tent (I am in an adjacent closet) keeps the heat from the driver outside.
Remote control is working like it should - I have the two channel Growers Choice controller.
Remote control is working like it should - I have the two channel Growers Choice controller.
The power cord on our light is 2 meters. so it is available to mount the driver remotely.
Three Berries
Active member
I use small lights generally around a foot square. The problem is hanging in tents with minimum clearance. I always end up scrapping the cable hangers and some have the ballast mounted on top in the way.
I end up using cable ties and jack chain.
I end up using cable ties and jack chain.
After sales customer support is very important to me and I found your company really lacked that, for that reason I would never purchase again from Mars Hydro.
I'm going to come back to the UV and IR topic.
Osram (fluence) have seen no gain from these bands, that was not outweighed by losses. Their top guy is working in so many well dialed grows, showing HID customers how to convert, that his knowledge is worth taking onboard. Ultimately it's all about white light. There is no perfect recipe for all our plants, or research been done down to the last 50ppfd of balance. We do know that it should be white though, and if we add so much red that things turn pink, we are likely shaving 10% off. In tests regarding this, all excess red seemed a bad idea. The top yield was about 40% red, some 17% over control. The other 60% was over the blue and green spectrum. They are strong believers that all colours are needed, and that too much Red for example, causes the processes it triggers to simply collapse. Unless supported by the process the other colours are causing. Such a collapse is dead material. Bleaching is typical in that case. As they used more red, yields dropped. As they passed 60% red, as is typical of older red&blue lighting, yields dropped below control.
Back to me again. I find this preference for all colours to be unsurprising. The plant has been doing it's best under the sun for some years. If it's not figured out how best to grow under white light, something is wrong. White light could be anything from cool whites to warm whites, depending on where and when the plant is. It probably got through the dark days that finished off the dinosaurs, when the sun was just a warm glow. Then the 90s when again, light was just a warm glow in somebodies basement. When we selected out many plants that might of done better had our lighting been more complete. Now we are going to see a shift in what's good, as we do the hippy trails again, but this time grow them out under LEDs.
We want white light, but just what colour white isn't so critical. We just wants lots of it.
Osram (fluence) have seen no gain from these bands, that was not outweighed by losses. Their top guy is working in so many well dialed grows, showing HID customers how to convert, that his knowledge is worth taking onboard. Ultimately it's all about white light. There is no perfect recipe for all our plants, or research been done down to the last 50ppfd of balance. We do know that it should be white though, and if we add so much red that things turn pink, we are likely shaving 10% off. In tests regarding this, all excess red seemed a bad idea. The top yield was about 40% red, some 17% over control. The other 60% was over the blue and green spectrum. They are strong believers that all colours are needed, and that too much Red for example, causes the processes it triggers to simply collapse. Unless supported by the process the other colours are causing. Such a collapse is dead material. Bleaching is typical in that case. As they used more red, yields dropped. As they passed 60% red, as is typical of older red&blue lighting, yields dropped below control.
Back to me again. I find this preference for all colours to be unsurprising. The plant has been doing it's best under the sun for some years. If it's not figured out how best to grow under white light, something is wrong. White light could be anything from cool whites to warm whites, depending on where and when the plant is. It probably got through the dark days that finished off the dinosaurs, when the sun was just a warm glow. Then the 90s when again, light was just a warm glow in somebodies basement. When we selected out many plants that might of done better had our lighting been more complete. Now we are going to see a shift in what's good, as we do the hippy trails again, but this time grow them out under LEDs.
We want white light, but just what colour white isn't so critical. We just wants lots of it.
Bought my hid lights back in 88. My latest grow of four super lemon haze under 800 watts of hid was liked the most in our little group. I'm the old school guy everyone else has the latest LED lights yet...
Yield was 1 kilo of bud and 60 grams of bubble hash. Can you and your friends smoke 3 kilos of weed in a year? I grow three times a year. Its all good and legal here in BC Canada.
Yield was 1 kilo of bud and 60 grams of bubble hash. Can you and your friends smoke 3 kilos of weed in a year? I grow three times a year. Its all good and legal here in BC Canada.
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Hows this
View media item 18061565
That's 500w per meter of Philips Green Power in pro ultra reflectors, verse about 350w per meter of LM301 from a cheap Chinese supplier. Same reservoir. Same 4 plants per meter, in coco, about 8-9L each DTW
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