Difference between 110/120v and 220/240v receptacles?

[clowntown]

Yes it does matter! insofar as you do not put the white (neutral) wire into a breaker. The neutral (white) is connected to the neutral bus bar inside the panel box. Only hot (red and black) wires are connected to breakers!

The bronze screw is always hot (red or black) and the nickel (silver) screw is always neutral.

I thought 220v doesn't have a neutral, unless you're running 2-phase?

I second what pro engineer and even steven stated above, use the correct power cords and receptacles. I wired up 120v receptacles to 220v and clearly marked them "220v only" with a sharpie, knowing I was going to be the only one plugging anything into them. It didn't take too long for me to fuck up and plug a 120v cord into that 220v receptacle even though it was clearly marked and away from other 120v receptacles and I was the only one that would ever be using it.

Clown, you don't seem like the type a guy to cut corners like that, at least not with something as important and/or dangerous as electrical.

I honestly, really, and truly am perplexed at this... why it's such a big deal. I will be the ONLY one with access to the room (hopefully), and I will be the ONLY one plugging anything in or out. I will clearly know at any given time and at all times that these are 220v outlets and not 110v... I think even Reagan can remember that. Especially if you mark it, but I don't think marking is even really necessary...

Is this really cutting a corner?

These receptacles are mounted in metal boxes, and those metal boxes are connected via armored cable to the timer, all mounted on a plywood board. I think it's going to be really hard to miss it and "accidentally" plug a 110v appliance in, but ...

I don't want to hard-wire the cord because I don't feel it's necessary, and I like the ability to take the cord out if necessary (although can be done at the ballast side).

So the final answer is: the only difference is the physical slot orientation, and nothing else?

Thanks everyone for feeding me some clue.

 

[Stay Puft]

Well...
The short answer is this: YES, The electrical properties of the connectors and dielectric strength of the housing is typically fine @ 240V. (although only certified/tested at 120V)

That being said: I think you are being penny wise and pound foolish! (No offense)
You should keep your grow area as 100% safe as possible.
This would include the fact that plugging in devices in the area should NOT BE A F-ING GAME OF CONCENTRATION! ("Is this plug safe for this device"? lol)

The codes that require specific type connectors (based on voltage and current ratings- ala NEMA) exist for a damb good reason!
If you do not have the funds the use the proper connectors, then use Wire-nuts/box as suggested. (Hardwired)
BTW- I tried to explain the same crap here in this thread
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=1500661

BTW- I think C.F. would say I am a lil bit retard too. (at least) Perhaps we can start sum kinda help group.

 

[PharmaCan]

This question hasn't been answered, and is very important:

Yes it does matter! insofar as you do not put the white (neutral) wire into a breaker. The neutral (white) is connected to the neutral bus bar inside the panel box. Only hot (red and black) wires are connected to breakers!

As Even_Steven pointed out, this statement is not correct. 12/2 Romex and 10/2 cable are often used for 240v circuits where no neutral is required. Fortunately, this is very easy to spot in the panel because both wires are connected to the same 240v breaker. This is a very common installation in the more northern latitudes where 240v baseboard heaters are used a lot.

Clowntown - yeah, yeah, yeah you SHOULD use the correct receptacles. However, all things considered, particularly the fact that you bought single (as opposed to the common duplex) receptacles, it's highly unlikely that you will inadvertently plug a 120v appliance into one of those sockets. If you do, I bet you do it only once! LOL

PC

 

[clowntown]

It's not really that I "cut corners" from the beginning, really. Went to the hydro shop, picked up some ballasts, got home and found out that the cord in the box was for 120v. At this point I still had intentions of getting 240v cords.

Then I went to Home Depot to try and find some 240v receptacles. Looked all over, and all I could find them carrying was a single outlet (at least this store didn't even appear to carry duplex) 250v/20a receptacle, and they were completely out of stock except for 1 piece. There were many empty boxes, which indicated that someone probably took them out and stole them or swapped 'em into cheaper receptacles' boxes.

Then I came home to post this thread...

 

[clowntown]

Clowntown - yeah, yeah, yeah you SHOULD use the correct receptacles. However, all things considered, particularly the fact that you bought single (as opposed to the common duplex) receptacles, it's highly unlikely that you will inadvertently plug a 120v appliance into one of those sockets. If you do, I bet you do it only once! LOL

Yeah I understand that it can be a danger when all receptacles look alike and are built into the walls or something... but trust me, these receptacles are really fuckup-proof. The timer and 4 receptacle boxes are mounted on a square piece of plywood, which is in turn mounted on the wall... with an armored cable running down to it. All the other outlets are mounted in the wall, and look nowhere near like this setup. The only thing being plugged into this board will be the 4 ballasts, nothing else. All other devices (which run @ 120v) will be plugged into the pre-existing outlets.

I wish I had a camera to illustrate, but too bad I had to sell it to get some 10/2...

Again thanks everyone for the help. I have a much clearer understanding of these basics now.

 

[cocktail frank]

you can use the 120v recepts for 240 if you had to.
\just write 240v on the plate so you dont fuck up down the road.
but.....if you have a ballast that accepts diff power cords (120v or 240v) they tend to use a diff pin set on the male cord end on the ballast.
chances are you would have to rewire the ballast internally to fix the pin sets to make the 120v hookup to 240v.
chances are, you would lose your warranty for opening the enclosure.

and no, it doesnt matter where you put each hot on a 240v receptacle. with the exception to the ground.
not necessary, but good practice.

stay puft, big nugget is the retard, not you

 

[yamaha_1fan]

I dont know if this was a fluke but I was working on a cruise ship and plugged a 120 tool into a 240 outlet. It ran for 45 seconds then popped the breaker. No shock.

CT I have heard the properties are the same for the outlets.

BTW If I decided to use outlets, I would use 120 VS 240. I remember almost using outlets and plugs versus hardwiring, and the cost was outrageous. The 240 plugs and outlets were much more money.

 

[clowntown]

BTW If I decided to use outlets, I would use 120 VS 240. I remember almost using outlets and plugs versus hardwiring, and the cost was outrageous. The 240 plugs and outlets were much more money.

Yup I've found that to be true as well; I believe this is the reason why there were many empty 240v receptacle boxes, so that they can be swapped out inside a cheaper 120v receptacle box.