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diatomaceous earth?

dekab247

Active member
I think I spelled that right. I have been growing for sometime, but this is very first time that I have used this Dio Earth. I checked stiches sticky, and did a search on some of my pest issues I am having. I am organic/soil. I am not having nute issues at all, but am using the Dio Earth to control a problem. Here is my question.

I applied it for first time a few days ago. This was when soil was relativly dry. It at that time seemed to knock down infestation very well. When I went to water. It seems to mcuk all the Dio earth all up. Making it really clumpy in a way. Now do I keep applying the Dio earth until I water again? Or do I apply it after watering?

Te reason I ask is this. After the watering it seemed to bring back the issue. Little black nats. I hope I spelled that right. I checked for knats, and dio earth. Yet I couldn't find much about the specifi9c question I had. Anymore info needed. Please ask. I hope that I helped...peace...
 

MTF-Sandman

OG Refugee
Veteran
DE isn't really designed to take out fungus gnats...getcha some BTi (aka gnatrol or mosquito dunks) and use it in the water/nutes and give them a thorough watering with it.
 

dekab247

Active member
Hey MTF,

Thanks for the info. It was just what I had at the time. I will look for the gnatrol. Is it organic? as well as the dunks? I just wish to not compromise the organic method. I will be looking into this, and thank you for your time...peace...
 

dekab247

Active member
damn...thanks for that info Unicorn...I had been looking for just that. Don't know why my searches failed. As I usually hit upon the right keywords when I do. I appreciate that very much, and I am hoping to try this new solution. I will let you know how it goes. Thank you so much my friend...peace...
 

MTF-Sandman

OG Refugee
Veteran
dekab247 said:
Is it organic? as well as the dunks?

Yeah...it's just a bacteria.

Here's a little more detail on how it works from http://www.entomology.wisc.edu/mbcn/fea207.html

When Bt is ingested by a susceptible insect, the protein toxin is activated by alkaline conditions and enzyme activity in the insect's gut. If the activated toxin attaches to specific receptor sites, it paralyzes and destroys the cells of the gut wall, allowing the gut contents to enter the insect's body cavity. Poisoned insects may die quickly from the activity of the toxin or may stop feeding and die within 2 or 3 days from the effects of septicemia (blood-poisoning). Bt does not reproduce and persist in the environment in sufficient quantities to provide continuing control of target pests. The bacteria may multiply in the infected host, but because few spores or crystalline toxins are produced, few infective units are released when a poisoned insect dies. Consequently, Bt products are applied much like synthetic insecticides. Bt treatments are inactivated within one to a few days in many outdoor situations, and repeated applications may be necessary for some crops and pests.

It's a very specific insecticide and is non-toxic to plants and animals...but lethal to the mosquito genus (which fungus gnats are part of) :D
 

dekab247

Active member
UNICORN...

UNICORN...

Like I said I'd let you know how it worked.

The DE/h20...It worked fairly well I must admit, but only when I wetted surface with it. When top of medium dried out they seems to crawl back. Lil Bastards...Anyways I am done now...I just thought I'd let you know, but I will still use this method. I think every few waterings I will hit the next wave. Ahead of time to see if I get them, and how it helps. Thanks for the info again...peace...
 

dekab247

Active member
MTF-sandman,

I appreciate yor info too. I found the dunks, and I will give them a go soon on a test. Peace to you also my friend...
 
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