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Defoliation: Hi-Yield Technique?

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hahahahaha
fatter ????? we are still waiting for a bud shot of that fluff


The only bud shot you'll see is the very first one she was outside till the end of sept so there are little buds if you zoom in you can see her girlie bits. I had to revert her a bit she didn't know what was happening next week she should go back to the dark side.
 

whodare

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some fresh ones for you gentlemen, all day 26 of flower.


show me a seriously defoliated plant at the same stage as these looking like this...


 

DrFever

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iampolluted

Active member
hey unsifted? do you know they can actually use glucose present is molasses or bud candy or carbo-load? i.e. they eat the fucking sugar. so yeah, i do feed em sugar....along with a fuckton of other people.
 

DrFever

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hey unsifted? do you know they can actually use glucose present is molasses or bud candy or carbo-load? i.e. they eat the fucking sugar. so yeah, i do feed em sugar....along with a fuckton of other people.

So along with calcium, magnesium, and iron. and other micro nutrients in molasses is whats helping the plant if you add molasses you got to remember that molasses is used for micro organisms and yes the extra boost of them micro's are helping for any def
If you think feeding your plant sugar is going to help then good luck hahahaha :)
While it is true that plants need sugar, they make all they need through the process of photosynthesis. Plant roots are not designed to absorb sugar, and table sugar (sucrose) added to the water will harm or kill plants because it reduces the availability of water. Sugar can also promote the growth of soil microbes which can also be harmful to the plant. This particular Site also mentions artificial sweeteners and says they probably will have no effect, one way or another, on plants. So, from this information, the answer is that sugar definitely does not help grow plants, but rather is harmful to them. :moon:
 

iampolluted

Active member
you do realize glucose is SUGAR?

i'm not literally feeding em tablespoons of sugar, or artificial sweeteners, or complex carbs, or whatever other types of sugar there are. i feed my plants molasses, along with the rest of my organic mix. i use bb bacteria also, but i'm not fucking wrong when i say plants use the SUGAR (glucose) found in molasses, and bud candy, carbo-load, humboldt honey, or whatever other sweetener some of these companies put out. yes it feeds bb, but it's also available for uptake by the plant if it's broken down into a simple sugar which all of those products are.

your right plants do make glucose...it's stored in the leaves when it's not needed, and turned into starch. then when it is needed, in times of low food, it releases the starch to be broken back down into glucose.

laugh all ya want, i did my research, and proved i was right. you haven't proven anything with any of your premises, other than you can work a scrog. newbies all over the planet are working em too....
 

medicalmj

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So along with calcium, magnesium, and iron. and other micro nutrients in molasses is whats helping the plant if you add molasses you got to remember that molasses is used for micro organisms and yes the extra boost of them micro's are helping for any def
If you think feeding your plant sugar is going to help then good luck hahahaha :)
While it is true that plants need sugar, they make all they need through the process of photosynthesis. Plant roots are not designed to absorb sugar, and table sugar (sucrose) added to the water will harm or kill plants because it reduces the availability of water. Sugar can also promote the growth of soil microbes which can also be harmful to the plant. This particular Site also mentions artificial sweeteners and says they probably will have no effect, one way or another, on plants. So, from this information, the answer is that sugar definitely does not help grow plants, but rather is harmful to them. :moon:

Defoil to sugars, little off topic but worth a look.

There are so many effing idiots working the hydro stores these days talking about how sugars are gonna make your buds get bigger and taste sweeter, it makes me wanna bitch slap em.

Doc is spot on, plants cannot metabolize sugar, period. Microbes, good ones and bad ones, "eat" the sugar. I'd save the molasses for the EWC tea. And that's the only place I'd put it. Except for in my BBQ sauce.
 

DrFever

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You forget hydro is always a bonus strong light good bushy strain with this strain branching would be sparse but my bithes are the fatter they just get haircuts and eat whatever is free.
Bud buster i took a few pics just for you :laughing: this is what my girls look like i will also show you shortly what they look like skinned so you can see the branching hahaha better.
See i get rid of all that crap its meaningless, all they will do is take energy away from my actual quality buds that is the top 600+ bud sites :)) you mention you give your girls haircuts but your bitches are fatter i can guarantee you 4 of your plant might be close to one of mine ????
one plant covers 6.25 Sq feet
You mention height again in order to achieve lots of bud sites training is involved LST, fimming ,Supercropping and most importantly keeping a even canopy so even in a sense my plants are probably 5 feet in height but i got them all twisted back down to maintain that even canopy
when a plant is done i bet i would have over 50 feet of branches if i cut them out and layed them in a straight line hahaha
so height means nothing all height does is make it easier for me to prune my girls its all about top bud sites getting as many as i can and filling 75 Sq feet of table
:thank you:
 

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iampolluted

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plants don't metabolize glucose? really? it fucking makes it and distributes it through the phloem. it's the food (glucose/starch) stored in the leaves, hence the "producers" tag. when glucose or sucrose is made available in the soil, the roots can use it. pulling leaves (glucose/sucrose/starch storage vessels) doesn't hurt the plants because a). they still have leaves capable of storing and producing glucose/sucrose during photosynthesis, and b). because glucose and sucrose can be obtained through the soil via the root system.

in essence, they CAN absorb simple sugars through the roots. this doesn't always replace what the plant has naturally produced, but it does aid the plant when the sugars are needed for energy as long as the microbial organisms don't eat it all 1st.

read the links....http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1469-8137.1967.tb05995.x/pdf

http://aob.oxfordjournals.org/content/32/3/521.abstract

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0038071705002968

in reality, those hydro dudes aren't so full of shit, you're just uneducated in plant physiology. sorry, but it's true.
 
Getting a little OT. Maybe there should be a "Plants and sugars 101" thread for this lol.

In my experience, running the same cloned pheno, same nutrient regimen, same everything, once I started defoliating I averaged 10% more yield with much less fluff. I didn't even stagger the defoliation, I just took off every fan leaf bigger than a playing card every 7 days until week 4 of flower, then left them alone...I didn't notice any shock issues. I was running two 4x8 tents and the first two times I tried defol. I ran one tent "normally" and one with the above defoliation method so I did have back to back and consistent results....10% yield doesn't sound like much but if your yielding 5 pounds that an extra half pound per harvest and of bigger easier to trim buds, all for spending 20-30 minutes a week picking off some leaves.

I'm sure just as with nutrients and lighting distances, every strain and every pheno will react differently which is why I think some people in this thread hate it and some love it....I know my strain/pheno loves it though.
 

whodare

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Veteran
plants don't metabolize glucose? really? it fucking makes it and distributes it through the phloem. it's the food (glucose/starch) stored in the leaves, hence the "producers" tag. when glucose or sucrose is made available in the soil, the roots can use it. pulling leaves (glucose/sucrose/starch storage vessels) doesn't hurt the plants because a). they still have leaves capable of storing and producing glucose/sucrose during photosynthesis, and b). because glucose and sucrose can be obtained through the soil via the root system.

in essence, they CAN absorb simple sugars through the roots. this doesn't always replace what the plant has naturally produced, but it does aid the plant when the sugars are needed for energy as long as the microbial organisms don't eat it all 1st.

read the links....http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1469-8137.1967.tb05995.x/pdf

http://aob.oxfordjournals.org/content/32/3/521.abstract

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0038071705002968

in reality, those hydro dudes aren't so full of shit, you're just uneducated in plant physiology. sorry, but it's true.


You really are a moron aren't you, lol did you even ready our own links or do you just lack reading comprehension?

From the first link, same as the second one essentially.

Accumulation and uptake of sugars from glucose and sucrose by apical segments of excised tomato roots were compared. Greater uptake and accumulation occurred from sucrose which may, in part, contribute to the characteristically better growth of the roots in sucrose.


Do you even know what excised roots are?

Obviously not, here ya go junior...
Introduction:**
*** Various methods have been described for isolating plant parts and maintaining them in axenic culture.* In general, these methods require that: (1) the plant material is in the appropriate stage (undifferentiated cells and tissues are best); (2) the plant material is surface-sterilized to kill the naturally-occurring microbial flora; and (3) the proper growth environment (i.e., appropriate nutrients, temperature, light, pH) is maintained.* The appropriate conditions must usually be determined empirically for each culture and species.

*** Several types of plant culture can be recognized based upon the plant part cultured and the method of culture:

Organ culture. In this technique, the plant material maintains its morphological identity and has the same basic structure as the parent material.* It is possible to grow several plant organs in culture including roots, shoot apices, leaves, flower parts and fruits.


Embryo Culture. *Plant embryos, which normally develop from fertilized eggs in the embryo sac of the ovary, can be induced to form in culture.* These somatic embryos, technically called embryoids, have been cultured from vegetative cells of many plants, from reproductive tissues other than the zygote, and from hypocotyls and cotyledons of embryos.

*

Tissue Culture.* When small, sterile pieces of tissues containing undifferentiated cells (parenchyma cells) are placed on a suitable medium the parenchyma cells will begin to grow and divide and give rise to an undifferentiated mass of cells called a callus.* Callus can be induced to differentiate and form roots and shoots by manipulating the composition of the medium.


Liquid Suspension Culture.* A suspension culture consists of cells and small aggregates of cells dispersed and growing in a moving liquid medium.* These can be obtained by placing a callus in a liquid medium and then agitating it on a shaker.


Pollen and Anther Culture.* Pollen can be cultured by standard tissue culture techniques to form a callus.* The callus can be induced to differentiate and a plantlet can be obtained. Note that the plants/cells formed are haploid.


Protoplast Culture.* Protoplasts isolated from a variety of species can be placed in the appropriate medium and growth conditions. The protoplast can be induced to regenerate a cell wall and grow into a callus.

**** In this experiment we will study organ culture techniques.* White first demonstrated that excised roots of tomatoes could be grown in culture in a defined medium.* In brief, root tips are excised from young seedlings and then transferred to a liquid culture medium.* After approximately 1 week, the root will have grown significantly and have many lateral roots.* The tip of this root can be sub-cultured (tip culture) and the remainder of the root divided into sectors each containing 3-4 lateral roots and also sub-cultured (sector culture).* The roots can be grown indefinitely in this manner if they are periodically sub-cultured into fresh medium.
 

whodare

Active member
Veteran
Getting a little OT. Maybe there should be a "Plants and sugars 101" thread for this lol.

In my experience, running the same cloned pheno, same nutrient regimen, same everything, once I started defoliating I averaged 10% more yield with much less fluff. I didn't even stagger the defoliation, I just took off every fan leaf bigger than a playing card every 7 days until week 4 of flower, then left them alone...I didn't notice any shock issues. I was running two 4x8 tents and the first two times I tried defol. I ran one tent "normally" and one with the above defoliation method so I did have back to back and consistent results....10% yield doesn't sound like much but if your yielding 5 pounds that an extra half pound per harvest and of bigger easier to trim buds, all for spending 20-30 minutes a week picking off some leaves.

I'm sure just as with nutrients and lighting distances, every strain and every pheno will react differently which is why I think some people in this thread hate it and some love it....I know my strain/pheno loves it though.



Pics or it didn't happen... Let's see what your defoliated plants look like, and the non defoliated ones.
 

Old Soul

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Wouldn't you think you could increase your yields on your non-defoliated plants by taking off those branches that are giving you larf/fluff so it can put more energy into the rest of the plant? I think fixing that would get your yields much closer to each other without taking an extra 30 min. a week defoliating, but to each their own.

iampolluted, do you defoliate or are you just in here to argue about sugar? I notice you poking at whodare about his 18 inches of naked plant but looking through your pics it doesn't look like you defoliate. It just looks like you grow a ton of small plants. Just curious as to your stake in this thread.
 

DrFever

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Quote laugh all ya want, i did my research, and proved i was right. you haven't proven anything with any of your premises, other than you can work a scrog. newbies all over the plant are working em too....
Yes never said scrogging was hard hell i made a thread you can start from page 7 in it where i break it all down more or less making it easy for anyone to understand , if some growers use any of my info then great but again its good valuable knowledge given to help others to maximizing there yields as for skinning / hacking a plant all it has done is stressed and slowed growth ??? and that is plain stupid period
 

iampolluted

Active member
i do defo but not to the extent other do. i don't strip em naked, i take what i feel is necessary to prevent shading. essentially i tend to sort of lollypop without removing budsites. my pics are either old grows from 8 months ago, or new test runs where i don't touch em except to remove leaves no longer sustainable by the plant.

i'm not arguing about sugars per say, but about the fact that the leaves aren't always needed in terms of storage, and removing leaves doesn't reduce their sugar production or the plants translocation of such. meaning removing leaves doesn't hurt em.
 
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