Darkening midleaf on new growth

[greenspiritz]

Even if it is specifically boron lockout, what causes that?


So it's back to overfertilization.

PH lockout due to over fertilisation i'm guessing, after flushing with water 3x the volume, it's required to add a low EC nutrient back into the soil to add equilibrium again!

An EC of 1.2 is not over fertilisation! Biobizz Light mix starts at 1.2EC! Organic or not.

And Formulex is a VERY mild nutrient, the dose i recommended was half the strength!

Why's your reply so hostile, get off your high horse, what better do you suggest other than mouthing off trying to argue.

I think my advise is not far from the solution to his problem

 

[greenspiritz]

Royal Queen of seeds clearly states in that artice

TREATMENT
In the unlikely event of a boron deficiency:

Apply a mix of 1 teaspoon boric acid to 4 litres of water to the affected plants. Results will be noticeable overnight.
When plants show positive reactions, flush with clean water or a commercial marijuana tonic and begin normal nutrient routine.
Boron is found in most tap water, so those growers using very filtered or RO water are most at risk. With all deficiencies, make sure you have tested the basics first. That means water quality. Test the pH. Depending on how you measure dissolved solids, check the EC or ppm. These two primary water conditions can imitate many deficiencies in the cannabis plant. Once you are satisfied with your water, it is time to start hunting for the real culprits.



Formulex will fix up that boron deficiency while the soil amends to equilibrium

I rest my case

 

[greenspiritz]

General advice

What you should focus on first is a large root system, thick stems/branches, and green leaves - phosphorus, potassium and magnesium. Keep the nitrogen low throughout the growth, until you need real growth in late flowering.

Its not advised to increase nitrogen in late flower, it is much better for the plant to feed on the residual nitrogen in its own leaves late in flower than trying to feed it nitrogen to make it simply look better.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Its not advised to increase nitrogen in late flower, it is much better for the plant to feed on the residual nitrogen in its own leaves late in flower than trying to feed it nitrogen to make it simply look better.

To make the flowers grow faster. Nitrogen is a growth nutrient.

 

[Grassizgreener]

Why is everyone giving him advice for soil when picture clearly shows he’s in rock wool...

Anyways symptoms of over watering and possible root rot

Also it’s ok to feed 3.0 and higher in rock wool..

 

[greenspiritz]

Why is everyone giving him advice for soil when picture clearly shows he’s in rock wool...

Anyways symptoms of over watering and possible root rot

Also it’s ok to feed 3.0 and higher in rock wool..

So he is, sorry i missed that. More information should of been added for help with diagnosis.

3.0EC for rockwool? What planet are you on dude?

Ok, diagnosis for rockwool.

Flush with PH 5.5, add your standard bloom nutrient to 1.2EC and H2o2 at half the recommended strength and flush again with is solution with a PH 5.8. Allow the PH to swing from 5.5 - 6.0.

Also spray Formulex at 2.5ml a litre once a day at lights on for 3 days then once every 3 days until improvement has resolved.

Do not feed your plants an EC of 3.0 never mind 2.0 at that stage. Normally an EC of 1.8 in full flower is enough depending on the strain.

Where do people read this stuff

Edit: After week 3, have the PH between 5.8 - 6.3 for better nutrient uptake of P&K.

Also see ---> https://www.alchimiaweb.com/blogen/grow-cannabis-rockwool/


__________ https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-rockwool-for-hydroponic-marijuana-growing-n844

Good luck

 

[Grassizgreener]

So he is, sorry i missed that. More information should of been added for help with diagnosis.

3.0EC for rockwool? What planet are you on dude?

Ok, diagnosis for rockwool.

Flush with PH 5.5, add your standard bloom nutrient to 1.2EC and H2o2 at half the recommended strength and flush again with is solution with a PH 5.8. Allow the PH to swing from 5.5 - 6.0.

Also spray Formulex at 2.5ml a litre once a day at lights on for 3 days then once every 3 days until improvement has resolved.

Do not feed your plants an EC of 3.0 never mind 2.0 at that stage. Normally an EC of 1.8 in full flower is enough depending on the strain.

Where do people read this stuff

Edit: After week 3, have the PH between 5.8 - 6.3 for better nutrient uptake of P&K.

Also see ---> https://www.alchimiaweb.com/blogen/grow-cannabis-rockwool/

Good luck

Commerical agriculture grows... google is your friend

Also you can look up highgradeonly rock wool grow thread he goes beyond 3.0

 

[greenspiritz]

Commerical agriculture grows... google is your friend

Also you can look up highgradeonly rock wool grow thread he goes beyond 3.0

Highgradeonly clearly states in his thread at page 5:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=304167&highlight=highgradeonly&page=5

"spimp, @ec x700 ppm's start at 1050 and peak at 1450.... its more the P, K, and folvic adjustments throughout flowing and adding silica that im concerned with rather than ppms."

His readings are with 700PPM calculated which translates to:

1050PPM is in fact - 1.5EC

And

1450PPM translates to 2.0EC

Here's the charts from BlueLab:

https://www.getbluelab.com/Resource+Library/Conductivity.html

 

[greenspiritz]

He also quotes here at page 2:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=330711&page=2

Originally Posted by High Grade Only View Post
thanks everyone! lets keep this conversation going.

yep, the huge one is gg4.

now for discussing the ph fluctuations possibly being due to too high of ec. i have suspected that, however i never go over 2.4 ec. i am trying to give them the highest levels i can without burning them. 90 to 100g per square foot average with 25 different strains.

 

[greenspiritz]

Another Quote @ page 1:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=334803

"Flowering, the nutes change every week, however the ph fluctuations don't. Flowering nutes include bud blood, big bud, mills a and b, mills vitalize, vitamax, hygrozyme, Moab, ooze, ultra, overdrive And f1. I never go above 1800 ppm ( ec x 700). As long as I adjust my drain to waste feed that I do once per day they turn out great. Why do I, and not others who grow in Hugo, have to do So?"



At 1800 ppm ( ec x 700) = 2.6EC

There's an awful lot of contradiction in his posts, don't get me wrong the grows look ok, but they look way over fertilised.

I think his meters probably need calibrating.

I'm going to refrain from posting here again because it's becoming off topic and i'm not a fan of hijacking peoples threads to state points or win arguments, i'm just here to help.

Enjoy your day, and good luck with the diagnosis Dirrtybirdy

 

[Dirrtybirdy]

First all, I wanted to thank everyone for their input and help! Good info posted and will used later if the problem arises.

So a bit of an update just incase anyone ever runs into this problem.

I searched through other threads and found that cold temp can also lockout phosphorus. In the thread there was a photo that resembled what was happening with my plant.

Anyways, I went and did a flush to I got about .4ec then did a .8ec feed. I also raised the temp to about 79-81degrees. The plants bounced back and new growth had taken off. There were a lot of leaves that were damaged, but in just going to let the girls recover and defol day 21.

Again thanks everyone for their help!!

 

[ambertrichome]

What we got it was at 75-90 degrees.

 

[greenspiritz]

Awesome! Glad the ladies are picking back up again dude

Here's a list that will help others to determine a more accurate diagnosis in future if any other problems may arise.

HYDROPONICS/Aero Ponics/Coco/Soiless/

How long has this problem been going on?
Are you growing in a PVC grow tent? (example: Hydrohut or any other non brand tents)
What system are you running? (DWC? Ebb flow? Aero? Water Farm? Flood Tables? and so on...)
What STRAIN are you growing?
What was the establishing technique? (Were the seed or clone?)
What is the age of your plants?
How long have they been in there mixture they are in now?(coco,soiless etc..)
How tall are the plants?
What PHASE are the plants in? (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in?
What Technique are you using?
What substrate/medium are you using?(Hydroton, RockWool etc.)
What is the Water temperature?
What color are your roots? White? Brown? Are your roots slimy?
What Nutrient's are you using?(If growing soiless)
How much of each nutrient are you using with how much water? *Knowing the brand is very helpful*
How often are you feeding? (If using soiless)
How often are you giving nutrients? (If using soiless)
If flowering, when did you switch over to using Bloom nutrients?
What order are you mixing your nutrients? (example: veg nutes 1st, bloom 2nd ect)
What is the TDS/EC/PPM you are using
What is the pH of the "Tank"?
How often are you testing your pH/PPM/EC/TDS?
Are you sure your calibration is correct on your equipment?
When was your last watering?
What is your water temps?
When was your last feeding change? (ie. grow-bloom-micro-additional)
How often do you clean your system: example: Flush out water replace with clean water and nutrients?
What size bulb are you using?
How old is the bulbs you are using?
What is the distance to the canopy?
What is your RH Factor(Relative Humidity)?
What is the canopy temperature?
What is the Day/Night Temp? (Include flucutaion range)
What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.)
Tell us about your ventilation, intake exhaust and when its running and not running ?
Is the fan blowing directly at plants?
Is your water HARD or SOFT?
What water are you using? Reverse Osmosis (RO)? Tap? Bottled? Well water? Distilled? Mineral Water?
If using tap water, what is the ppm/EC/TDS of the water right out of the tap?
If using RO,Distilled,mineral water, what is the ppm/EC/TDS without any additives?
Are you using water from a water softener?
Has plant been recently pruned, cloned off of or pinched
Have any pest chemicals been used? If so, What and When?
Are plant's infected with pest'