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Damaged plants from Broad ,cyclamen,Russet Mites

Aksala

Active member
The pics are kinda fuzzy but if the eggs have spots on em they are most likely BM's. Cyclamen and Russet I believe would just be straight cloudy in color. Some of your pics look like they could have the spots but it might just be the crappy scope. Weird you can't see any critters with that many (what I assume) are eggs..maybe they are just tiny little trichs?
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
Avid Forbid Question

Avid Forbid Question

This is a double post from another thread, but I am desperate for help .
I have asked this before , and seen others ask as well , but havent seen a answer yet. IF I decide to go the Avid/Forbid route , I will not spray but more likely dunk, My question is will these products keep away future intruders (for a time) ? At least long enough for the plants to show their potential ? PLEASE post if you know. I have read that forbid is systemic and avid is not fully systemic. But would like to kear from someone with experience. I am planning on one last attempt at the heat treatment tomorrow, will try to hit 120 for at least 2 hours. Will scope on sunday, if I find anything else , I may have to nuke them with the chems. Help ! yall
 
I havent tried avid or forbid so cant comment.
Pylon works as a dip for almost 2 weeks. As a spray (atomizer and dr dronners) its less effective, I see maybe a few days where they are suppressed.

Someone recommended guardian to me but they dont sell it anymore.

So I just hit them with wettable sulfur. Im going to try pfr97 as soon as the sulfur is washed away. I think heat treatments are the way to go if you do it right. I dont think im able to get my entire grow rooms that hot they didnt seem to do anything so make sure the whole tent gets that hot. Floors etc.

Still waiting on buildasoils essential oil mix...
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
I think heat treatments are the way to go if you do it right. I dont think im able to get my entire grow rooms that hot they didnt seem to do anything so make sure the whole tent gets that hot. Floors etc.

that's the key, getting it right.
in some cases it's not as easy as it sounds.
I highly encourage you use a laser temp gun.

here's another tool I've used with great success at times
iso alcohol, mix a 30%-50% solution of iso to water
4 yrs ago i got spider mites and knocked those fuk'rs out of the ball park with this method.
it'll kill em in a mater of seconds depending how heavy you spray and concentration.
use caution how heavy you spray as the longer the iso sits on leaves it can start to kill leaf tissue along with bugs.
its great for white flies to.
this is something that's used from veg to early bloom as you can melt resin with iso alc.
another plus----->it kills eggs.

AAAAND.....
speaking of eggs that's another aspect that's not been
given near enuff attention to.
avid kill the mites but not the egg so a retreatment is needed down the road.
so using avid you'll have to repeat spraying,
up to 2Xs to kill the new hatchlings.


Forbid is my favorite as far as the big guns go.
it's an ovacide so it takes out eggs
and here's another biggie,
it has translaminar properties so if you only spray the leaf top it will go to the untreated side and kill varmits feeding there.
but i spray boths sides.
so if properly done Forbid4F is a 1 step process for BMs


instead of using more avid you can kill the eggs with Volck oil.
it's an old school item, very low on the toxicity scale
kills a ton of other bugs like regular mites,
and a vector for BMs---> whiteflys.
it a refined mineral oil.

actually you can erradicate BMs in a round-a-bout way
using volck oil. if you keep killing the eggs you'll eventually break their life cycle and in about a months you'll be free
insecticidal soap and neem has these ovacidal properties also
I think.
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
Great post Gnome, Really well written. Thanks for taking the time to post. Although I am familiar with most of those techniques its great info. Volck oil eh ? had not heard of that yet. I have tried iso mixed with neem and bonners (thanks Avinas miles) used to hit em everyother day with this mix, but then I started having ph issues from the bonners getting on the soil. Great stuff about Forbid vs Avid too man. If I go that route I will use the Forbid for sure. I would probably dip/dunk instead of spraying, in hopes of reducing exposure . Just sketched because my tent ventilation exhausts into the (spare) bedroom which the tent is in , not outside. Perhaps we should leave the house for several hours after I dunk, certainly observe reentry times listed on the bottle (maybe 12 hrs) ? After that shit dries I would assume most of harmfull vapors are dissipated ?
 
T

Timm

just do the dipping when lights go out and turn extraction off for a few hours and you should be ok. Just don't spill it on yourself and make sure everything is controlled. I use gloves and respirator just in case. but re entry shouldnt be an issue when dipping because you aren't releasing vapors into the air
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
Yeah timm, I have the whole tyvek kit and stuff ,...good to know about the re entry, I didnt think it would be to big a deal with out spraying the stuff.
 
Wettable sulfur thru atomizer, buildasoils essential mix, pfr-97 in rotation destroys them organically. Dont use sulfur after wk 2 of flower.
 

zizration

Member
here are some pictures from today at 120x. could i please get some help identifying what i am looking at here, are these russet mites??


i am sorry i haven't embedded photos, not sure how to do that.. thnx for any help!!
 

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Shantij

New member
The damaging toxins are negated to a large extent by aspirin. In my 3 year battle with cyclamen mites, I noticed that if I fed with aspirin solution (325 Mg. Per gallon), the visible damage would reverse and disappear almost immediately. Noticeable difference overnight. Aspirin won't kill mites, but does mitigate the damage from the toxins to a large extent. Plants that were browning and stunted with twisted "growth", went back to "normal" after aspirin treatment. I observed this over and over. By the way, I may have been the first person to post pictures of plants attacked by these bastards. Three times, I posted in the infirmary, and no one got it right for all that time. Now when I see the damage, it's the first thing I think of. It's a good thing that the cause is now known, and that we know it isn't an incurable, highly contagious virus, which was my original conclusion. Three years of hell, but the aspirin helped to bring most of them to harvest with minimal damage. Go with aspirin in your food/water application, and you will notice a huge difference. Then commence to killing those bastards. I recommend the heat treatment as an alternative/adjunct to chems.
Aspirin is your friend. I use it automatically now on all plants, whether or not they show any symptoms of anything.

HI, do you know if aspirin will harm the red worms and soil organisms in a no-till garden setup?:thank you:
 

PoweredByLove

Most Loved
i have some plants that fit the exact description as the OP. i'm fixing it, it's not magic invisible mites thought. just damaged rootzone.

flipped through this whole thread. there's 2 pictures of bugs. 1 is lifted from a university website, the other one is questionable, most likely also lifted even though OP claims it's his and more to come...which never came.. say's the bugs are about .15mm you can, should be able to see 1/10 of a mm with bare eyes in bright light. and if there's enough of em to do damage to a plant on this scale you should be able to see these magic bugs.
for visual reference 1/10 of a MM is 100 microns. 100microns is the width of the average human hair. you can't see a thing as big/thick as a hair on a leaf using a regular loupe? but not these magic mites though...

um...i think you guys have been had. i bet that was the sproutco/blackvelvet guy everyone told me to look out for when i first got here.

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she's bouncing back with some TLC sprinkled about her generously. no magic invisible scapegoat bugs. just a rookie mistake that fucked up the root system. most likely the same issue all of you were having.:tiphat:
 
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Shantij

New member
harpin protiens carry an epa warning....

me just being cautious, not knowing....
id avoid spraying that at all in flowering.

go asprin or willow bark tea

Cool, I was wondering about willow bark tea!! Thanks:thank you:
I would like to use it instead of aspirin still I"m also was wondering if aspirin would hurt the soil life, like red worms in a no-till garden? What do you think?
 

zizration

Member
yo powered by love, what is this "sproutco/blackvelvet guy" all about ? i am new hear but appreciate a good story.


i was also convinced i had the RM. i sprayed cinnamon and rosemary and on and on. i def had some kind of problems. but I'm not sure it was bugs now. sadly idiot get any pictures of the early "donut" style holes on the undersides of the leaf.


ah sweet ganja plant, how you can humble a guy...
 

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