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Damaged plants from Broad ,cyclamen,Russet Mites

sneaky_g

Member
i gave them an azatrol soil drench 4 days ago, 1 tbsp / gallon . Today i was going to follow up with 2 325 MG aspirin / 5 gallons of water. and do a foliar before the lights are off.. I noticed since i drenched them with aza they have been pouring out of the holes and are generally pretty agitated.

Would you also recomend following up with a Foliar of aza ? or could i mix the aza with the aspirin to help the healing? After i finish with the aza treatment, I was gonna get the pro biotics going and do an ACT tea to get the pro life going again..


When this round of flowering is done. My plan is to treat all plants / seedlings with bayer tree and shrub early. I'm an organics guy but i can't seem to win with the pest troubles..
 

sneaky_g

Member
plan of attack.

plan of attack.

i gave them an azatrol soil drench 4 days ago, 1 tbsp / gallon . Today i was going to follow up with 2 325 MG aspirin / 5 gallons of water. and do a foliar before the lights are off.. I noticed since i drenched them with aza they have been pouring out of the holes and are generally pretty agitated.


I also have a pyro bomb i could drop on hand. Dr doom . what do you thin?=-

Would you also recomend following up with a Foliar of aza ? or could i mix the aza with the aspirin to help the healing? After i finish with the aza treatment, I was gonna get the pro biotics going and do an ACT tea to get the pro life going again..


When this round of flowering is done. My plan is to treat all plants / seedlings with bayer tree and shrub early. I'm an organics guy but i can't seem to win with the pest troubles..
 

Grizz

Active member
Veteran
i gave them an azatrol soil drench 4 days ago, 1 tbsp / gallon . Today i was going to follow up with 2 325 MG aspirin / 5 gallons of water. and do a foliar before the lights are off.. I noticed since i drenched them with aza they have been pouring out of the holes and are generally pretty agitated.


I also have a pyro bomb i could drop on hand. Dr doom . what do you thin?=-

Would you also recomend following up with a Foliar of aza ? or could i mix the aza with the aspirin to help the healing? After i finish with the aza treatment, I was gonna get the pro biotics going and do an ACT tea to get the pro life going again..


When this round of flowering is done. My plan is to treat all plants / seedlings with bayer tree and shrub early. I'm an organics guy but i can't seem to win with the pest troubles..
met 52 mixed in you new soil for the next round will get rid of the RA's, did mine.

carbon thanks for all the pic's and info.
 

sneaky_g

Member
Can you get Met 52 in the states? And is it safe to handle without gloves? I am worried about inhaling the fungus spore, but i guess you should prob wear a mask. advice appreciated. I also noticed that on the roguefarmer site it stated that it was only for ornamentals... Maybe im paranoid, but why isn't it rated for food crops? Could the fungus spore some how get into the bud , and make it not safe to smoke? There is probably little information regarding the safety of the product since its relatively new.. what are you're thoughts. please.

Or maybe you could direct me to a retailer
 

Grizz

Active member
Veteran
yes you can get it in the states, i used latex gloves and a cotton mask just to be safe, all i have read says it is safe and it works.
 
S

SeaMaiden

It's safe, they just don't dissolve as quickly. Dissolve the tablets first, say in some warm water, to be sure.
 
Great thread. I've just come through a tough battle with these also. Devastating to say the least.

I've posted this before in other forums and threads. Its a good read regarding application (which miticides to use with which mites) and rotation schedules. I don't advocate the use of harsh treatments but broad, cyclamen and russet mites don't go easy.

http://www.syngentaflowers.com/coun...smithSeeds_PDF/WhitePapers/Mite Rotations.pdf

I hope that this may be of benefit to some. Note that Floramite has no effect on broad or cyclamen mites.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
i gave them an azatrol soil drench 4 days ago, 1 tbsp / gallon . Today i was going to follow up with 2 325 MG aspirin / 5 gallons of water. and do a foliar before the lights are off.. I noticed since i drenched them with aza they have been pouring out of the holes and are generally pretty agitated.

Would you also recomend following up with a Foliar of aza ? or could i mix the aza with the aspirin to help the healing? After i finish with the aza treatment, I was gonna get the pro biotics going and do an ACT tea to get the pro life going again..


When this round of flowering is done. My plan is to treat all plants / seedlings with bayer tree and shrub early. I'm an organics guy but i can't seem to win with the pest troubles..

Sneaky: If you have RAs in flower, the BEST product to use is Botaniguard ES. It's a fungus that kills pests, including RAs and many others. Not a poison, so it is safe at any stage, even late flower.

http://www.bioworksinc.com/products/botanigard-es.php
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
great thread,
i had a crop go pretty south due to hemp russet mite, Cabron, you done a great job w this thread, and it truly deserves a sticky in order to clear up this growing problem among the community....

It was my run in w hemp russet mites that really taught me the value of ICmag, dunno what i woulda done without a couple other threads about HRM's & broad mites that helped me identify my problem and fix it asap.

kudos on a great thread Cabron & kudos on overcoming a terrible plague.
 

LEDNewbie

Active member
Veteran
great thread,
i had a crop go pretty south due to hemp russet mite, Cabron, you done a great job w this thread, and it truly deserves a sticky in order to clear up this growing problem among the community....

It was my run in w hemp russet mites that really taught me the value of ICmag, dunno what i woulda done without a couple other threads about HRM's & broad mites that helped me identify my problem and fix it asap.

kudos on a great thread Cabron & kudos on overcoming a terrible plague.

What's did you finally do to completely rid yourself of them? Process and products? When did you have the battle with these fuckers?.. I'm in the middle of a battle myself.
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
slew dem!

slew dem!

What's did you finally do to completely rid yourself of them? Process and products? When did you have the battle with these fuckers?.. I'm in the middle of a battle myself.

here is the thread that saved my ass....
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=227293

i first sprayed w azamax & spinosad
then
"pest out" an organic pesticide w garlic oil main ingredient
then
i used floramite (even tho was told it was ineffective i used it because i had it laying around)mixed w tetrazan (ovacide)
then
i finally got my hands on some Safer garden fungicide, main ingredient wettable sulfur.....

in between each spray w pesticides i sprayed w mighty wash to rinse that shit off....

luckily i didnt have to use avid... that's nasty shit.... but it works i kno it does.....
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Guys/gals, to eliminate this problem on your plants and in your room without using toxic chemicals, go here to learn about the heat treatment:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=5597194#post5597194

Everything is explained there, so I won't repeat it here, but check it out. You will like it. Read last couple pages of thread, not just that post, to learn everything you need to know. Please post your results on Russett mites, as I have only tried it on Broad/Cyclamen mites. Also I believe it should work on spider mites, but haven't tested that. Please post if you try it. It will not damage your plants at all, guaranteed.
 
S

SeaMaiden

Guys/gals, to eliminate this problem on your plants and in your room without using toxic chemicals, go here to learn about the heat treatment:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=5597194#post5597194

Everything is explained there, so I won't repeat it here, but check it out. You will like it. Read last couple pages of thread, not just that post, to learn everything you need to know. Please post your results on Russett mites, as I have only tried it on Broad/Cyclamen mites. Also I believe it should work on spider mites, but haven't tested that. Please post if you try it. It will not damage your plants at all, guaranteed.

With my page settings, that's a 35page thread, and what you linked to only says 'use the heat!' It never says what the heat treatment is. Do I really have to slog through the previous 34 pages to find out what the heat treatment you're talking about is? Would you mind reposting, pretty please? :)
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
NO. Heat treatment DID NOT WORK. You put the plants upside down in a hot water bath kept to a temperature for 15 min....

A. good luck doing this.

B. I used a turkey fryer with water and a candy thermometer...

It doesn't work. It's stuns them for a couple days...but does NOT stop them. Just saying.

If you have broad mites - your solution kill everything and start over - or use heavy nasty chemicals to full eradicate them. It really is THAT simple.



dank.Frank
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i didnt try heat...
but the wettable sulfur and garlic oil seemed to work very well for me, im glad i didnt have to use avid, but i would in 2 seconds if i had it laying around and had some kinda problem....

issue w me is that i usually have veg near bloom, and dont wana spray on veg if a lil trace amount could get on my close to harvy buds.... yadig?

this is a very serious & important thread.... peeps dont kno about these dangers.... the tiny borgs....
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
OJD sent me a PM - and apparently there are TWO different "heat methods"

The second being - letting your room temperature climb to 120 degrees for a period of no less than 1 hour. He confirms that this particular treatment IS effective in eliminating broad mite populations.

I don't want to encourage the use of chemical fertilizers, but I do stand by saying it was the only thing that put a dent in their population in my garden....and I still ended up killing everything off.

I had read in some .edu studies that high heat treatments were effective - I did not however try the method describe to me by OJD. If he says it works - I believe it is worthy trying as excessively high temps can't be any harder on the plants than all those chemicals...



dank.Frank
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
With my page settings, that's a 35page thread, and what you linked to only says 'use the heat!' It never says what the heat treatment is. Do I really have to slog through the previous 34 pages to find out what the heat treatment you're talking about is? Would you mind reposting, pretty please? :)

Just read the last few pages of the tread. It's all explained there. HOWEVER, since you seem to be challenged in that area, or just don't have time to slog through 3 or 4 pages of thread, I will summarize it here just for you:
Basically, we're using heat to kill mites (broad/cyclamen/russett mites [possibly spider mites, although this has not been tested by me]). Having battled these insidious creatures for four years, and suffered significant losses because of them, I have researched all the ways to deal with them. I know about all the chemical treatments to deal with them. The problem with chems is, they are also toxic to you. You need to wear protective gear just to apply them safely, and you have poison on your herbs. Plus, you will get resistant mites that then promulgate and you end up with super mites that are immune to many of the toxins, as has happened with some strains of root aphids. If you research how commercial nurseries and greenhouses deal with these mites, they use hot water dips. The plants are dipped in hot water and this kills the mites. Problem is, as I found out after trying it, is that cannabis does not like to be dipped in hot water. It ruins them. So, I thought, why not try hot air? I had a room full of large plants and was pretty sick of spraying them every three days. So, I proceeded to heat up the room. You do this by turning off all fans,air conditioning, and sealing the room by covering any ducting, etc. with aluminum tape. Leave your room lights on. Depending on the climate where you live, this should heat the room up to above 100 degrees F. In my case, this was 105 degrees, still not hot enough to kill all species of mites and their eggs. So, you add electric space heaters (NOT PROPANE), which you can buy in Home Depot, etc., until you get the temperature up to 120 degrees F. Close the door to the room, and leave the plants in that heat for one hour. In no way will this hurt the plants. In fact they will look nice & perky afterwards. But it is quite fatal to the mites and their eggs. 100% death rate. The added benefit is that it kills all mites in the room, not just the mites on the plants, as a spray will do. So now, you have clean plants & room. Repeat the process as often as you like/need, if more mites are re-entering your space from outside or from the ducting in your house or from your dog or whatever. Process should be repeated, to be safe. I did it three times in my case. Pulled 8 to 13 zips per plant using Hempy buckets with coco/vertical lighting. The picture of the room is in my gallery. That's it. Pretty simple and foolproof. If anyone has spider mites, please test this technique on them and report your results back in the broad mite thread, and this thread. I'm pretty sure it will kill them. I just don't know exactly at what temperature they expire at, but 120 should do it.
:ying: RG
 

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