cutting concrete slab?

[yamaha_1fan]

I was thinking of cutting into a concrete slab. Maybe 15 feet long by 6" wide, and 6" deep. Reason is I want to run a drain pipe across the floor but dont want a 2-3" pipe running across the floor.

Am I asking for trouble with the slab?

 

[Uncle FREEDOM]

just rent yourself a cement saw.... (tell them you are fixing a drain in your basement) and cut around the outside, then a bunch of across cuts to the sizes you want removed.

My question would be as to why go this way, do you just not want to worry about tripping?? remember you might have to pack up quickly.

The only reason i would cut into the floor slab is to sink rez's into the ground.

 

[headfortrinity]

It can be done, the problems will be the mess a concrete cutter makes (dust and water for the cutting wheel) and if there are already pipes under there. If you have a blueprint of the place you can map out the "potential" placement of existing pipes, I say potential because they aren't always in the exact spot the blueprint shows. You'll want to rent a stand up cutter (if you have the room to work with) because a handheld cutter will take a long time to cut 30' of concrete, make sure you get an extra blade in case the one isn't enough, Then use a large breaker bar to break the concrete into mangaeable pieces. You'll have to cut through the entire slab then place the pipes under the ground then backfill with concrete. It's a tought dirty job but it can be done.

I used to do this for a living, underground utilities construction. It won't be easy.

 

[PharmaCan]

Yamaha - Cutting concrete like you are talking about is very common in "Tenant Improvement" work. (Where the tenant fixes up a retail or commercial space to suit their needs.) Look in the yellow pages for "Concrete Sawing" and get a bid from a contractor. They'll cut the concrete, break it, remove it and haul it away for a very reasonable price.

The thing about renting a cutter is, in addition to the rent, they measure the diamond blade with a micrometer and charge you for the wear on the blade. The blade wear can be real expensive, plus then you need to rent a jack-hammer to break the concrete.

There are some jobs you just don't want to do yourself. Trust me, this is one of them.

PC

 

[Mr. Tony]

I would agree with Pharma, doing this yourself will be a major PITA. breaking up the concrete into manageable pieces is a bitch though carrying out larger ( meaning you'd have less pieces to move and there for less trips) is also a pain in the ass and will put major stress on your back.

If you can afford to have someone else come and do it for you, it would very well be worth your money.

 

[bbudd]

You could do the job with a jackhammer.Electric ones are easy to rent and use.Just break it into size you can dispose of.Be a little rougher looking finish,but not too bad.Just watch out for existing pipes.

 

[PharmaCan]

You could do the job with a jackhammer.Electric ones are easy to rent and use.Just break it into size you can dispose of.Be a little rougher looking finish,but not too bad.Just watch out for existing pipes.

Man, this is not the way you do this kind of job, particularly on someone else's property. To begin with, you risk cracking the slab way beyond where you are working - meaning upon vacating the property the owner will charge you for removing all the broken floor and replacing it.

Secondly, you've obviously never done this or you wouldn't suggest it. The slab floor on a commercial building is at least 5"-6" thick and reinforced with steel and/or microfibers. Trying to break it without relieving the stress with a cut is, well, just plain foolish.

BTW - pipes go under a slab, not in it.

PC

 

[cork144]

you could make a false floor and run all pipes under that, but your grow that would be a hassel.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

have you considered going through a wall to the outside? another way would be to mount your drain pipe to the wall and use a pump.

 

[Carl Spackler]

Ditto on running in or through a wall. Some drywall/wood work is much easier than bustin up a slab. You may compromise the integrity of the slab as well. Just my $.02

 

[Pirate]

As an electrician for 30 years I can tell you that an electrical conduit COULD be as little as 2 inches below the surface.It is not required to be below the slab. In fact, most interior electrical conduits are laid on top of the surface the slab will be pored on. This puts the conduits IN THE SLAB. If ya hit a main line to a panel..........you've got major problems. Especially if its to a neighboring unit

Rent a cutting service as mentioned above. They should a have a device that will tell you where the pipes are before they cut. OR you can rent an electrical locator, mark the pipe locations and then cut it yourself. If It was me...........I'd be on it like stink on shit. You could have it done in one weekend. Patched back up and all.

Git er done !!

 

[Bozo]

I am a concrete finisher by trade I cut concrete out all the time moving drink stands and salad bars around in super markets
Not cutting slab is a stupid idea .A hand held Chop/Hot saw with a diamond blade water cooled for dust control will only cut 4 inches to get through a 6 inch slab you need a walk behind propane or electric saw .The water used to cool blade can be sucked up as you cut with a common shop vac.Electric jackhammers suck so unless you have alota time rent a 185 compressor and a 90 lb hammer,althou electric hammer doesnt spit mass air and oil every where .Dont forget a good exhaust fan with a duct to expell the dust and provide fresh air ,if you use a propane saw they will eat all the o2 in small area fairlr fast .I passed out in a Safeway kitchen once cutting in a small area and vent fan came unplugged
Same rental shop that rents you the equipment you need may carry the tool you need to locate pipes in slab
Most power mains come in at a wall a dont cross the slab but you should still do a locate in the area you want to cut
Some of the above answers involve people entering the area if thats the case and its ok for them to be there ,pay someone to do the locate .And it really is alota work so if you have a bad back or anything like that pay someone to do it all

 

[junior_grower]

You can rent a hand held saw called a through cut saw. It runs two blades on the out side of the arbor, it will cut a 1" wide grove that break the center out of and then proceed to go deeper. Its water cooled, and gas powered a rent will cost around 60 bucks. If this is just a basement slab in a home just use a jack hammer it will be fine.

 

[yamaha_1fan]

I am fairly confident there is no water/electric in the floor. I can see the panel and everything runs up. Any electric on the other side is clearly run through conduit overhead. There is no water on the other side, its all on one side of the building

I want to tie into the existing drain, thats why I need to run across the floor. Otherwise I would have to basically run a pipe outside and that may raise questions why we have a 3" pipe running outside.

And having a pipe across the walkway is not an option. Too busy moving things around, working to keep going over a pipe.

Landlord issues are not an issue. I am the landlord

I saw some handheld cutters at Sunbelt that say they will cut 6" deep.

What about rebar? If I hit rebar, will the cutter just go through it? I assume if its cutting concrete, it will cut rebar.

 

[Bozo]

Cool hand held that will cut 6 inch will do it ,Rebar will slow you down alittle but blade will go right through it .Hand held saws cut almost as fast as a walk behind just not as straight .Check and see if they have a cart for the hand held makes it easyer ,It holds saw so you can stand up and run it like a walk behind.I wasnt implying you shouldnt do it yourself if you as confident you wont cut anything you cant fix I see no reason you couldnt do it in a day .I know I said electric hammers suck and I stand by that they may be cheaper to rent less obvious to neigbors (no 185 compressor in back yard)
If you are worried about losing structural integrity and cutting rebar dont be the strength is in the stem wall not the floor .If you are really worried you could drill 1/2 dowles into sides of slot and epoxy them in

 

[magiccannabus]

I also think the concrete saw is the way to go. Rent one with a diamond blade in it. It will go right through the concrete and any rebar that is in your way.

I would also strongly recommend you lay the pipe in sections. So you cut up a section of a certain length, lets say 10 feet. Lay that pipe in, and then pour the concrete down to replace it. Then cut the next section(I'd have a bit of it started when you finish the other so you can tell where everything lines up...), and repeat what you did before. This helps protect you in case your trenching causes any structural issues. Might help to find out all you can about the foundation of your building, and the type of soil it's supported by.

 

[Uncle FREEDOM]

Hey yamaha, just another thought.....

I only suggest it as a way to save you work....

one could put a rez for the accumulation of the run off, then using a sump pump, run pipe up the wall, along the celling (or side of the wall) then back to another rez, or waste.

Just a idea.

If you do decide to cut up the slab, make sure your use breathing protection... My gandfather was a stone mason, and just passed away from lung cancer.