Yes you can use that ground rod. Everything else is fine. It's a little weathered but looks fine. The wires on the load side of your disconnect are correct. They are not undersized They fall in the category of (tap rule). If your going to put a 3phase panel in I would verify the voltage first. You might have 3 phase 240. That would mean that the third phase is around 200 v to your grounded conductor it's called a (high leg).
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Could electrician take a look at pic?
- Thread starter guyyug
- Start date
For running the conduit I would come out of the right side of the disconnect (where your removing the wire). Use PVC for the conduit and use an LB on the disconnect and go down to the ground and bury the 3' to the building and back up with PVC to an LB the into the back of your new subpanel (must have a main or 6 or less breakers
As Bwep said, the ground rod will work fine.
No, the wires on the load side are not correct. You are not allowed to terminate multiple conductors in a lug designed for a single conductor, and there are several requirements for the tap rule to apply, the most pertinent of which is that none of the conductors can be over 25' long. The OP hasn't gone into the lengths of all of the conductors, but if one of those runs is feeding a large shop separate from the residence, I doubt that the length requirement has been met.
joe guy
Member
Wow need to go back to fuckin school or I guess I should go to school
This shot is scary not for personal but property
I'm nowhere near an electrical guy but I've seen quite a bit a wire
And that my friend scares me.
I rent in slumlord ville so ima have to take a gader at what these hacks put together for me
This shot is scary not for personal but property
I'm nowhere near an electrical guy but I've seen quite a bit a wire
And that my friend scares me.
I rent in slumlord ville so ima have to take a gader at what these hacks put together for me
Yes i agree the lugs must be changed (thought you guys already agreed on that) I'm not sure if your a licensed electrician or not. But your probably scaring this guy when he should have no fear tackling this installation. The taps are outside and can be any length (240.21B(5) in the NEC. This is all common practice.
And the three phase circuit goes directly to a fused disconnect and the other feeder is 1/0 which is rated for 175 amps. If he wanted to be extra safe he could just put 175 amp fuses in there. The only real issue I see is that the service might be 240v 3 phase and has a high leg. That definitely has to be checked. He must check voltage. He might only have 208. But I really think he has a high leg there.
And the three phase circuit goes directly to a fused disconnect and the other feeder is 1/0 which is rated for 175 amps. If he wanted to be extra safe he could just put 175 amp fuses in there. The only real issue I see is that the service might be 240v 3 phase and has a high leg. That definitely has to be checked. He must check voltage. He might only have 208. But I really think he has a high leg there.
Once again, dependent on the stipulations that you have left out. Accessibility, presence of a disconnect in the sub, etc. The 1/0 is THW, so it is rated at 150 amps.
Fuck, you think that panel looks bad, the one in my basement is sooo out of code I almost fell down laughing when I saw it, that is until I realized I was going to be the one working on it.
I'm, talkin every location on the ground bar had multiple wires, as did a few breakers, undersized wires, fucking billion feet of slack, no free spaces, 60 amp sub out to the garage, and it was only 100 amps.
Shit was fucked, still is, one day I'll replace it lol...
I'm, talkin every location on the ground bar had multiple wires, as did a few breakers, undersized wires, fucking billion feet of slack, no free spaces, 60 amp sub out to the garage, and it was only 100 amps.
Shit was fucked, still is, one day I'll replace it lol...
Not applicable. You said the wire was rated for 175 amps, it is not. Table 310.15(B)(7) is an allowable exception for a single-phase dwelling service carrying the total load for the dwelling.
I would certainly agree on giving correct and safe advice. That is why I try to err on the conservative side if I don't have all of the pertinent information.
I trust rives advise above all else. He has helped me in many situations and really knows what he is talking about.
with reference to ground:
leg 1 - 125v
leg 2 - 125v
leg 3 - 220v
3 phase panels are very expensive, plus not sure I could pull single phase off of it...
Can I change those lugs out on the disconnect so they can except 2 wires on each leg, then leave the 3 phase going like it is, and install a single phase panel below it, (bringing leg 1 & 2 (and neutral)) to the panel? Then I could lay down the existing 1/0 (that goes to another sub panel) and the #2, that I want to run for my NEW sub panel into the panel that I install underneath disconnect?
leg 1 - 125v
leg 2 - 125v
leg 3 - 220v
3 phase panels are very expensive, plus not sure I could pull single phase off of it...
Can I change those lugs out on the disconnect so they can except 2 wires on each leg, then leave the 3 phase going like it is, and install a single phase panel below it, (bringing leg 1 & 2 (and neutral)) to the panel? Then I could lay down the existing 1/0 (that goes to another sub panel) and the #2, that I want to run for my NEW sub panel into the panel that I install underneath disconnect?
It is a single phase service for a dwelling and i bet it feeds a 150 map main panel. Anyways. Do not install a three phase panel. 3phase 240 is only for motors and compressors. So definetly only install a single phase panel. Verify the voltage from Aphase to bPhase. You have to make sure you have 240v though. if you have 208 you'll have to run all your ballasts at 120 unless you have digital ballasts which will adjust accordingly. I wouldn't change anything else on that pole besides the lugs in the disconnect.
And you definitely can put a panel underneath the disconnect. Outdoor panels are kinda spendy and you'd need two expensive breakers. They do make tap boxes designed specially for this. You can buy them at the local wholesaler. Just ask for a 200amp outdoor tap box and a 2" hub for it. Regardless of what installation you do, panel/tap box/direct feed you will need to replace the lugs.
The only reason I am thinking of installing a panel below this disconnect is b/c I need an ADDITIONAL 100amp sub panel coming out of this 200amp disconnect, so I would end up with the 60 amp 3 phase run to a sub panel, the 100 main sub panel (1/0 wire), and then this new 100 amp panel a few feet away (soon to be #2 wire). These amperages are what the main breakers are inside the sub panels. I am wanting to have everything to code for a future inspection (years down the road), so I want to rework this stuff only once. That is the main thing.
I have replaced my other central heat/ac with a gas heater to save some bucks on my electrical bill, so that 100 amp sub panel that the 1/0 wire feeds will never pull more than 60 amps max. The 3 phase panel, 30 amps, and this new one 75 amps max.
Also, the plan was to run all my lights off 240v, but I will have to pull only one more run regardless if they are 120v or 240v, so that will not be a concern (sure wish I would have put a sub panel in the room instead of had all these runs, but oh well)
Would love to hear how you would do this with the above needs, thanks for everyone who has helped
I have replaced my other central heat/ac with a gas heater to save some bucks on my electrical bill, so that 100 amp sub panel that the 1/0 wire feeds will never pull more than 60 amps max. The 3 phase panel, 30 amps, and this new one 75 amps max.
Also, the plan was to run all my lights off 240v, but I will have to pull only one more run regardless if they are 120v or 240v, so that will not be a concern (sure wish I would have put a sub panel in the room instead of had all these runs, but oh well)
Would love to hear how you would do this with the above needs, thanks for everyone who has helped
If your going to install a 3phase 200 amp main outdoor panel you wouldn't even need the big disconnect at all anymore. A new panel would look real nice and clean. But to make it legal you would have to have it inspected now. An inspector won't approve something that was done in the past. If you just change the lugs out everything else would pass a inspection. You can call the inspector to look at your current set up. Not sure what state your in but it's typically the minimum charge of $35 or $50 dollars. Worth it if your that concerned. Your current system is obviously working fine. I wouldn't change it. And a outdoor 3 phase panel is expensive. And the breakers are spendy too. If you do install a panel realize that you cannot use the high leg at all. So your breakers will be kinda spaced funny.
I would think that the first thing that you would want to do is to figure out whether or not you want to keep the 3-phase long-term and build in that direction. Things that you might want to consider include the future usage of your shop - 3-phase would be highly desirable for any serious equipment that you might want, possibly more attractive if you wanted to rent the shop out, and perhaps a benefit for resale value. Checking out your power rates vs standard residential rates would also be a good idea - industrial plant's 3-phase power is typically much cheaper than residential rates, but it's possible that you could even be paying a premium for it.
