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Compost Tea Extract

h.h.

Active member
Veteran
On the off chance that this is in reference to what I stated;



e-coli was the furthest thing from my mind. I was not referencing human pathogens but plant ones like various fusarium fungal diseases. I've seen this pathogen spread rapidly through an entire crop by spraying inappropriately made CT. It is rare but it happens. Luckily the spores are easily recognized if using a scope;
https://www.google.ca/search?q=fusa...NAhVDzmMKHWTPBcUQsAQIGg#imgrc=FAcIbSzbKVsY6M:

They look like bananas.

It is always good to know you are using good quality [v]compost.

I do agree that the e-coli scare is ridiculous and the studies done by the USDA showing that e-coli can grow in CT had to use CT inoculated with e-coli to illustrate this. (boy-o-boy)
No, I never read your stuff. Too many facts and not enough hysteria...
I refer to the e-coli comments made earlier in this thread. My understanding is that we consume e-coli on a regular basis. We simply digest it. In an acidic condition, acid resistant e-coli prevail. Our stomach acids can't break it down and we get sick.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by the safe zone. As I have written numerous times it is practically impossible to make a harmful (bad) compost tea (CT) but it is easy to make a better CT.

A lot depends on the design of your brewer/bioreactor and the timing involved for microbial populations to develop in the desired ratios of diversity.

If you have purchased a commercially marketed bioreactor, the seller/manufacturer should have good instructions based on their research as to how long to run the machine and with what inputs to optimize the desired microbial populations.

The seller should be able to show you video or at very least very good photos of the microbes they have extracted and multiplied using their unit(s). If they do not have this, then don't buy.

If you are using a homemade method/design to make CT or LCE, then you can use your own discretion and senses to evaluate when to use it.

If making LCE there is no worry because you are just extracting mostly spores and multiplication of microbes takes place after application to the soil.

If you are pre-feeding as described in this thread, then just watch that the fungi developing is not predominantly fuzz growing up from the surface. What you want to see is thread-like mycelia running through the [v]compost.

This (photo by friend Jay)
View Image

Not this...

View Image

Also use your nose for both pre-feeding [v]compost and making CT. If you still smell the foodstock strongly (like molasses) you may need to run (brew) a little longer. If it reeks like vomit or putrid garbage it is likely anaerobic.

[however even anaerobic CT will not likely harm your plants, despite what some others state; BUT there is a higher chance of it containing a pathogen]

first of all thanks so much for ur wide and wise answer..i aprreciate it a lot

so i can feel safe also if i dont have microscope, bcz as u wrote i CANNOT HARM THE PLANT with AACT :biggrin:

i read the opposite somewhere

i am using a 70 Liters per minute Air Pump...do u know how much time is enough for 15 liters of tea ?

last question if u can help me :
weeks ago i prepared a camomile tea ...then i filtered and i stored in a closed tank..but days ago when i was ready to water the plant i open the tank and smell it like vomit (anaerobic stuff as u wrote)
after that i remember that few days later i add in the same tea the water (with no salt inside) of my cooked pasta...could be this my mistake??
and...is it safe (pathogens free too) to water or spray my plant with it ?

thx so much
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
chamomile tea is not ACT. You can find info on my webpage. Just google
Microbe Organics
 
chamomile tea is not ACT. You can find info on my webpage. Just google
Microbe Organics

I know it is not.. i made Simple Classic Tea (24 hours in warm water and then filtered) with camomile from my garden that i use sometimes to "drench" the plant..but last time has horrible smell...should i stop to feed with it ?

i saw ur site and to say the truth i come there quite often to read and read again :) and i will do it again too ;)
:thank you:
 
My first attempt at this yielded no beard.

Can anyone elaborate on the covering and let sit part? Optimum conditions? Light? No light?

I covered it with foil tight then a closed black plastic bag for 3 days. Now I have it in a humidity dome with the vents closed sitting in my veg room. I think I probably need to redo it now it smells ... murky.

Edit...im a dumbass...just redid it and realized I completely screwed up the recipe! Crossing my fingers this time
 

plantingplants

Active member
I can't speak to the fungi grown in soil, but cubensis colonizes best at 85f, so if I were going to try it, I'd shoot for at least 80f... but that may be misguided.

A quick google search reveals this study on arbuscular mycorhizzal (g. intraradices) development at different temperatures. Temperatures below 73.4F inhibited AM growth but they didn't test temps above that. Interesting to note that "at suboptimal root zone temperatures, mycorrhizal inoculation sometimes slightly reduced root development." and also: "mycorrhizal plants were larger than non-mycorrhizal plants after 15 weeks at 15 and 23 degrees C"

..and another study regarding in vitro growth of Gigaspora decipiens and Glomus clarum: "The spore increased from 22ºC, reaching higher values 28oC and 32oC there was a reduction in the production." 28c = 82.4f.... 22c = 71.6


So it looks like room temperature is fine and growing entheogenic mushrooms has nothing to do with growing mycorrhizal fungi :)
 
You're the man leadsled! My second attempt worked great. I love the way it smells. :bandit:

My next question is in regards to the foliar recipe: what do you do with it? I mixed the amounts into the corner of the tray and wet it down just enough to hopefully make a little beard. Is this correct?

Thanks for everything bro
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
You're the man leadsled! My second attempt worked great. I love the way it smells. :bandit:

My next question is in regards to the foliar recipe: what do you do with it? I mixed the amounts into the corner of the tray and wet it down just enough to hopefully make a little beard. Is this correct?

Thanks for everything bro

Make sure your beard is not fuzz;

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7491943&postcount=31

You actually cannot see the hyphae extracted into a tea. These are microscopic.
 

plantingplants

Active member
So if my soil is full of compost and humus, wouldn't it be growing fungi right now? I mean isn't the technique to grow fungi described here happening on a grand scale in my garden?

If it's not happening because the required conditions aren't right, then what would adding some fungi do?
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
So if my soil is full of compost and humus, wouldn't it be growing fungi right now? I mean isn't the technique to grow fungi described here happening on a grand scale in my garden?

If it's not happening because the required conditions aren't right, then what would adding some fungi do?

Euthyphro speaks. :)
 

bigshrimp

Well-known member
Veteran
Compost extract is the ticket. Faster and no brewing needed.

Time to wake up and smell the compost, fish and seaweed.

Compost extract can be made in a few minutes anytime on the fly. No need for expensive air pumps, compost tea brewers, and tanks.
Increase the odds of growing the “correct microorganisms” for your plant by allowing the reproduction of the organisms to occur in the soil and on plant surfaces rather than in a compost tea brewer. Also extended brewing periods will select for organisms that can grow in water, which may or may not be the correct biology for your specific plant. With a compost extract you have much less risk of it culturing anaerobic pathogenic organisms.

You can just use compost and extract it.

Hope that helps.

I'm really not sure why selecting and culturing a narrow range of fungi is useful for ACT. Especially primary and secondary decomposers... Honestly seems like you are greatly decreasing the likelihood of getting the "correct microorganisms".

I think we are looking for a functional nutrient cycling ecosystem, not a santa's beard/ black pin slurry...

Please correct me if i'm missing something here.
 
I followed the foliar recipe and kept it all in the corner of the tray for 48 hours. I just took a peek at the beard under my scope and can see the hairs MicrobeMan pointed out. Later this evening I'll spray down the garden with it. Might try to take a picture if I can angle it right but it may be a little tricky.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
lol you're saying I'm Socrates, right? Not sure how Euthyphro's circular definition relates but maybe I'm missing something.

No, I was actually saying you are Euthyphro because you answered with your question. The dialectic method of learning/teaching. I try to employ it myself when possible.

People learn much better when they teach themselves.
 

Hemphrey Bogart

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for posting this thread up, Leadsled. I tried your recipe, but with a twist.

I used 2 cups of worm castings and 2 cups of Malibu compost. I also added about 3/4 of a cup of ground up oat bran. I then mixed up and sprayed on a 30ml mixture of aea sea shield.

After two days covered with some black plastic, I got this...

picture.php


picture.php


I'd like to try it with a batch of some homemade EM1 and see what I get.

HB.
 
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