-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
Coco help please.
- Thread starter Dankdad64
- Start date
Thank you I will look.
chronosync
Well-known member
mS is EC
my meter uses the Hanna 500 scale
its easy to convert in my head if I think of 1.0ec as 10 and divide by 2 .... equals 5
or: 600 x 2 = 1200 .... 1.2ec
500ppm = 1.0ec
so add the 4ml to a gallon and see how many ppm
adjust as desired
Its better to go by ec and or ppm rather than how many ml but after awhile if you are feeding the same strength you will know how many milliliters equals what ppm on your meter
A good starting ec for plants in veg is 1.0 - 1.2ec
seedlings more like 0.6 - 0.8ec
my meter uses the Hanna 500 scale
its easy to convert in my head if I think of 1.0ec as 10 and divide by 2 .... equals 5
or: 600 x 2 = 1200 .... 1.2ec
500ppm = 1.0ec
so add the 4ml to a gallon and see how many ppm
adjust as desired
Its better to go by ec and or ppm rather than how many ml but after awhile if you are feeding the same strength you will know how many milliliters equals what ppm on your meter
A good starting ec for plants in veg is 1.0 - 1.2ec
seedlings more like 0.6 - 0.8ec
Last edited:
Ca++
Well-known member
My recent cheap ones have come in uS. Making an EC of 3.0 into 3000
It's easy enough to not see the dot anyway, so it looks about the same.
The extra digits offer a bit more resolution, but it's like using lab powder pans, to check keys of hash, still in plastic wrap. Quite ridiculous.
It's easy enough to not see the dot anyway, so it looks about the same.
The extra digits offer a bit more resolution, but it's like using lab powder pans, to check keys of hash, still in plastic wrap. Quite ridiculous.
Thanks this should help.
@hempy
The Haze Whisperer
Millisiemens/meter to Electrical conductivity unit (mS/m to EC)
Convert Millisiemens/meter to Electrical Conductivity Unit (mS/m to EC) - Batch Convert - ForEach.id
Convert millisiemens/meter to Electrical Conductivity Unit (mS/m to EC) simply in ForEach.id. You can do batch convert and learn how to convert for all electric conductivity units, refer to conversion table, and instantly convert each and every unit you need using provided tools.
foreach.id
Ca++
Well-known member
Hanna are predominantly using the 500 scale, which is common in the states.
You should keep in mind the 700 scale is common elsewhere, and China may of sent you anything.
Thus the EC reading of 1.0 would be a 500 with Hanna, but 700 with many others. Some even have a switch, or use 640. The ppm isn't measured by meters, they can only measure EC, but can display a rough PPM having done a little math themselves. Maybe 500, maybe 700, it's pretty much a gamble.
Sometimes we here 'conductivity meter' which is a better starting point to explain this. All we can really measure is Electrical Conductivity. That's our EC. The more salt, the more conductivity. Though not all salts are equal. The ppm meter measures EC, then has to make a presumption. The common US 500 standard, is presuming table salt is used. Enough table salt in water to get an EC of 1.0 is going to be 500ppm. It's a look-up table almost. This 500 is used if we talk about TDS. In the EU, Potassium salts are used for hydro. We have TDS meters at 500 to, but PPM for hydro is 700.
In AU, they are split, and not really interested in making a decision, as it's not real anyway.
In professional situations, EC is used, because EC is measured.
Your mileage may vary, if you use ppm. By using EC you talk the universal language. Try to forget about PPM as soon as you can. Any true professional you want to follow will be using EC, and if they did give you an answer in PPM.. well they are not being professional, and their numbers have no meaning. You would have to know what meters they were using. It's just too convoluted, for no reason. Try and switch to EC and all the papers on cannabis will open up to you.
ResinousKingpin
Member
DO NOT START AT 4ML A & 4ML B PER LITER OF WATER IN COCO WITH CANNA NUTES !
It will burn your plants.
Start with 1/4 -1/5 strenght than increase slowly your nutes.
It will burn your plants.
Start with 1/4 -1/5 strenght than increase slowly your nutes.
Than you so much.
Thank you, I did start at ,1/4 .
StickyBandit
Well-known member
In the past before the internet we used CF (conductivity factor) and have started using EC (electrical conductivity) in recent years. It's easy transitioning because it just means moving the decimal place one spot to the left 
What kind of uncultured bozo would want to calculate their nutrient solutions in ppm. Horticulture ''professionals'' have always mixed them by EC like 0.2 EC N + 0.2 EC P + 0.2 EC K, right? Some clueless individual could even consult a molecular weight table and figure out how to add 100 ppm N with for instance 719 mg/L KNO3, which would also add 278 ppm K.
(I have used several nonprofessional meters over the years, none of which have given me an option to see EC, which was fine because I couldn't care less. There's no meters of any kind being used for my current surely doomed grow - papers on cannabis being avoided as well)
Ca++
Well-known member
I still use CF locally. It's the easiest on the tongue. I started using EC online as it's universal, and just this year has it really become my main measurement system offline to.In the past before the internet we used CF (conductivity factor) and have started using EC (electrical conductivity) in recent years. It's easy transitioning because it just means moving the decimal place one spot to the left
You highlight the problem well. People try to get clever, But before you know it they are mixing the notion of mixing with measuring, and trying to look at molecular weights when they can't even keep their units straight.
So many of us stick PPM meters in tap and believe. It's selling filters that are not needed. They see 300PPM and don't realise it's probably half of that. We shouldn't need the skill set to look at a meter, and then start undoing the maths it did. We should just stop buying fish meters, and buy plant ones. Which just tell it how it is. EC.
It's understandable that people would read this, and think it can't be right. Indeed, it shouldn't be, and it really is glaringly rubbish. Yet as excepted as needing a 2000 gallon pump, for a half gallon drip emitter.
It's nice to see you again. Truly. You have some smarts that could help people. Or, you could waste them.
Well, it's best to avoid hard water altogether. Though I have to say that GH hard water formula works for me. The city and their lab agrees with my primitive measurements. But the point is, a meter is unnecessary unless using a reservoir, and even then it's not really needed if you have the pH indicator dye to keep that in line.
Any smarts I have revolve around spelling and knowing that advice is to be avoided. The plant is the meter. I've been trying and trying to help people here by telling them that helping themselves is the way to go - they need to stop listening to people, watching videos, trying to copy things that will be detrimental in their particular situation.
The best help that can be given to the nonprofessional grower is a few pages from a random 80's book on houseplants or (outdoors) gardening. Throw in pH 6 is good for hydro growers, and any additional little tips are learned from experience and could be said in fewer words than this post.
Any smarts I have revolve around spelling and knowing that advice is to be avoided. The plant is the meter. I've been trying and trying to help people here by telling them that helping themselves is the way to go - they need to stop listening to people, watching videos, trying to copy things that will be detrimental in their particular situation.
The best help that can be given to the nonprofessional grower is a few pages from a random 80's book on houseplants or (outdoors) gardening. Throw in pH 6 is good for hydro growers, and any additional little tips are learned from experience and could be said in fewer words than this post.
Start at 1/4 of 4 ml ?
ResinousKingpin
Member
0.8 ml of A & 0.8 ml of B PER LITRE OF water. It is 1/5 of the FULL STRENGTH.
It is the way I start in COCO.
After +/-10 days if all is ok,go 1ml A & 1 ml B. It is 1/4 strength.
Than increase slowly your nutrient ammount if the ladies like it
It is all strain dependent also.
Some strains love heavy feed,some NOT.
I personally believe in feeding as little as possible. Sometimes I prefer a slight deficiency than an excess of fertilizer in the plant. That's why I start gently and if I don't see any deficiencies at low EC, I try to maintain them as long as possible and slowly increase the fertilizer concentration as the plants grow.
Regards
It is the way I start in COCO.
After +/-10 days if all is ok,go 1ml A & 1 ml B. It is 1/4 strength.
Than increase slowly your nutrient ammount if the ladies like it
It is all strain dependent also.
Some strains love heavy feed,some NOT.
I personally believe in feeding as little as possible. Sometimes I prefer a slight deficiency than an excess of fertilizer in the plant. That's why I start gently and if I don't see any deficiencies at low EC, I try to maintain them as long as possible and slowly increase the fertilizer concentration as the plants grow.
Regards
Last edited:
