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Coastal Seeds Burmese IBL Repro

Lolo94

Well-known member
Started seeds about a month ago under 11.5 hours of light. The plan is to do a reproduction with all the plants . Plants just started showing sex, 6 males, 3 females and 5 unknowns. Since space is limited had to flower the plants small. All looking very uniform.
 

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  • Burmese IBL.JPG
    Burmese IBL.JPG
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Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Started seeds about a month ago under 11.5 hours of light. The plan is to do a reproduction with all the plants . Plants just started showing sex, 6 males, 3 females and 5 unknowns. Since space is limited had to flower the plants small. All looking very uniform.
Looks like you have plenty to work with now. Thanks for posting and keep me updated. I would like to see how these turn out.
 

Lolo94

Well-known member
All the plants have sexed. Ended up with 8 girls and 6 boys. Plants are very consistent (which is what I was hoping for in an IBL). Been plucking the more mature stamen to give the females a chance to mature a little more.
 

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  • Burmese.JPG
    Burmese.JPG
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Lolo94

Well-known member
I hope they are as good as the ones I once grew. Looking forward to your updates. I got mine from VISC.
Sativa high on an indica like frame. Story is its originally from Referman to Bodhi then to Coastal. Grew Coastals Burmese x Malawi. Nice slightly motivating, in your head down memory lane high. Pleasant with a bit of a deer in the headlights feel. Had no comedown too, which was great. Great ROI strain, based on ease of growth, speed and high.
 

Strictly_Medicinal

Active member
Nice grow! I'm interested in doing basically the same thing since I'm also limited on space and I would like to reproduce some regular seeds that I have. Do you mind sharing some information on your setup, such as what size your grow space is, what light you're using, and maybe how it's built. Thanks!
 

Lolo94

Well-known member
Nice grow! I'm interested in doing basically the same thing since I'm also limited on space and I would like to reproduce some regular seeds that I have. Do you mind sharing some information on your setup, such as what size your grow space is, what light you're using, and maybe how it's built. Thanks!
The setup is in a 2'x2' x 4' tall light proof metal grow box cabinet. I got it second hand 5 or so years ago. It was prewired and included a carbon filter and exhaust fan (on the inside top of the cabinet). The inside of the box is covered with reflective insulation that helps to dampen the noise. There are 2 passive air intakes along the bottom of the side panels. The air is diverted at a 90 degree angle to eliminate light leaks. I placed a small 5" circular fan midway on the side panel using a magnetic hook to provide circulation. The light I use is an Area 51 ,100 watt LED light. It has 2 switches to control wether the veg only or vegetative cycle. This light runs cool and I've had the plant tops a couple of inches from it and not get burnt. I looked for this particular model online recently but couldn't find it.

The box is on an external timer and the lights and fans are on at most 13 hours a day. I've read that fans need to be on all day long, but I've never had mold or mildew. It could also be that I don't grow indicas that are typically more sensitive to mold and mildew.
 

Strictly_Medicinal

Active member
The setup is in a 2'x2' x 4' tall light proof metal grow box cabinet. I got it second hand 5 or so years ago. It was prewired and included a carbon filter and exhaust fan (on the inside top of the cabinet). The inside of the box is covered with reflective insulation that helps to dampen the noise. There are 2 passive air intakes along the bottom of the side panels. The air is diverted at a 90 degree angle to eliminate light leaks. I placed a small 5" circular fan midway on the side panel using a magnetic hook to provide circulation. The light I use is an Area 51 ,100 watt LED light. It has 2 switches to control wether the veg only or vegetative cycle. This light runs cool and I've had the plant tops a couple of inches from it and not get burnt. I looked for this particular model online recently but couldn't find it.

The box is on an external timer and the lights and fans are on at most 13 hours a day. I've read that fans need to be on all day long, but I've never had mold or mildew. It could also be that I don't grow indicas that are typically more sensitive to mold and mildew.
That's a pretty sweet set up! Thank you for the information, I believe I can build something similar out of wood, I'm handy with a saw!
 

Lolo94

Well-known member
Here's a little update. The males have shot up in height and are dropping pollen. They are about 1.5x the height of the females. I screwed up and let the plants go too dry before watering. I got to them just in time and they bounced back ok, but some of the lower leaves were affected and will likely drop. I still haven't totally mastered the dixie cup growing yet (either watering wise or nutrition). My previous method was to grow many plants in a large pot and weed out the poor performers/males (if not breeding). This restricted the height and by the time the final poor performers were culled, the stretch period was mostly over. This method uses alot of seed, but I make my own so it's not an issue. The dixie cup method (once I get it down) will hopefully better allow me to breed plants with different flowering timelines in this setup. It'll be interesting trying it out with more traditional sativas.
I cut the bottom out of the 8 dixie cups with females and filled another dixie cup 3/4 full and stacked one ontop the other. This will decrease the watering frequency and allow for more nutrient access during seed maturation. The males will be left to dry out and die in their current cups.
 

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  • Burmese Pollen Shower.JPG
    Burmese Pollen Shower.JPG
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gedLang

Well-known member
Here's a little update. The males have shot up in height and are dropping pollen. They are about 1.5x the height of the females. I screwed up and let the plants go too dry before watering. I got to them just in time and they bounced back ok, but some of the lower leaves were affected and will likely drop. I still haven't totally mastered the dixie cup growing yet (either watering wise or nutrition). My previous method was to grow many plants in a large pot and weed out the poor performers/males (if not breeding). This restricted the height and by the time the final poor performers were culled, the stretch period was mostly over. This method uses alot of seed, but I make my own so it's not an issue. The dixie cup method (once I get it down) will hopefully better allow me to breed plants with different flowering timelines in this setup. It'll be interesting trying it out with more traditional sativas.
I cut the bottom out of the 8 dixie cups with females and filled another dixie cup 3/4 full and stacked one ontop the other. This will decrease the watering frequency and allow for more nutrient access during seed maturation. The males will be left to dry out and die in their current cups.
I can see some spots on a few lowers but it still looks good to me. How are you feeding them?
 

Lolo94

Well-known member
I can see some spots on a few lowers but it still looks good to me. How are you feeding them?
I'm using Fox Farm's Veg, Bloom, and CalMag. All are PH adjusted when applied. The soil is a local knockoff of Fox Farm's potting mix. I've used this combo since I began growing indoors in this setup. One thing I noticed with my first dixie cup grow (vs. the one large container grows) is that some plants needed more nitrogen early during flowering to prevent premature leaf drop. When I grew the Burmese x Malawi, the lighter green pheno (Burmese) required more nitrogen than the darker green Malawi phenotype. It's kind of a fine dance fertilizing in such a small container. The typical fertilizing every other watering will likely need to be amended for some phenos. I'm not overly concerned on this grow, since it's for seed only and I've seen ample seed produced with hardly any fan leaves remaining. Even on non seeded plants, I'll typically harvest when all fan leaves have dropped.
 

Lolo94

Well-known member
Latest update:
Pollination is complete. In retrospect, I could have waited a little longer and allowed the females to flower more, but there will be more than enough seeds. It was getting a little too crowded in box. Plants are still a little N deficient, so the flowering formula will need to be amended to a mix of Grow and Bloom. Smokable harvest will be paltry, but enough for a sample.
 

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  • Burmese.JPG
    Burmese.JPG
    5.3 MB · Views: 41

Lolo94

Well-known member
Seeds developing well. The seeds on the 3 fastest plants will likely be done by the end of the month. The taller plants still have some fresh pistils. Plants have a very light, fruity smell when rubbed, but otherwise are almost odorless. Hoping they stay this way.
 

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  • Burmese IBL.JPG
    Burmese IBL.JPG
    5.6 MB · Views: 50

bloyd

Well-known member
Veteran
Plants have a very light, fruity smell when rubbed, but otherwise are almost odorless. Hoping they stay this way.
I keep a visc Burmese selfed line and it is some of the loudest flower I've encountered. Can't keep it contained. I'll be curious how these smoke. Nice work on the repro.
 

bloyd

Well-known member
Veteran
That's interesting. Did the smell come on late? Is it a strong sweet or skunky smell?
No, the smell is prevalent throughout, even stem rubs are indicative. I will say that in the s2 gen something happened in selection that amplified the terpenes

I compare the smell to citric wet naps from a wings joint with sour candy. Medical citrus with a sharp sweetness if that translates at all. It has a diesel level penetrating smell
 
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