What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

Cloning ><

MedResearcher

Member
Veteran
Not sure if this is the right section to put this in, sorry if its not.

I recently cut a new batch of clones using Oasis cubes. I used Power Clone mixed at 30ml/g to soak the cubes. Then cut the branchs, submersed them in water, recut, popped em in the cubes.

The cubes are sitting in a humidity dome tray, under a 4 foot flourescent bar.

They are doing ok, although a few of the tops turned slightly yellow, and a few of the fan leaves have yellowed as well.

Although I expected the roots to have popped out of the cubes by now, but they havent :badday:


My questions are; what is the average time you guys have experience from cut to root?

How dry should I let the cubes get?

Also for people who use the humidity domes, how long do you normally keep the domes on? My buddy at the grow store says he takes his off at about 5 days, think this is good advice?


Lastly any advice is welcome. When I comes time to cut clones I always get a bit antsy and nervous :bashhead:

Tks a ton,
MR
 
Last edited:

The_Leader

Non-Hilocentric
i clone w/powder and into peat. but still went hu? at recut after soaking. why? the reason you place into water is to stop air pockets in stem? to recut would negate this aye?

9O degrees, rh 8O+, wet soil, mist 2 times a day, roots in 5-8 days, 1st water after cut 1O days and into veg room. as soon as roots form 9O degrees and high rh become detramental instead of benificial.

note i let my medium get purty dry before rewatering. i use peat, so for cube i know it drys faster, so adjust.
 
I use the humidity dome until I can see roots come out under the small pot or I can see that the clone starts growing.
Then its time to let the plant slowly get used to the enviroment outside the dome, I do this by letting the lid open up a bit until all the moisture on the dome walls are gone, then I can take it out.
I usually get roots in 2 weeks +-. Depending on strain and other enviromental factors.
Hope this helps
 

NPK

Active member
I leave the humidity dome on the whole time until roots pop and I'm ready to plant. I just remove it a few minutes each day for air exchange; you could also leave it cracked a bit.

After many frustrating failures, I finally learned the keys to 100 percent cloning success: temps in the low- to mid-70s and at least 90 percent humidity. Also, you don't want the cubes to be too wet. After I soak mine, I give 'em a few good hard shakes (like after you wash your hands) to get rid of excess water. After I started being really scrupulous about those things I got lots of nice roots every time.
 
D

dre86

MedResearcher said:
Not sure if this is the right section to put this in, sorry if its not.

I recently cut a new batch of clones using Oasis cubes. I used Power Clone mixed at 30ml/g to soak the cubes. Then cut the branchs, submersed them in water, recut, popped em in the cubes.

The cubes are sitting in a humidity dome tray, under a 4 foot flourescent bar.

They are doing ok, although a few of the tops turned slightly yellow, and a few of the fan leaves have yellowed as well.

Although I expected the roots to have popped out of the cubes by now, but they havent :badday:


My questions are; what is the average time you guys have experience from cut to root?

How dry should I let the cubes get?

Also for people who use the humidity domes, how long do you normally keep the domes on? My buddy at the grow store says he takes his off at about 5 days, think this is good advice?


Lastly any advice is welcome. When I comes time to cut clones I always get a bit antsy and nervous :bashhead:

Tks a ton,
MR
I leave the dome on 24/7. I add a layer of water in the try to keep humidity up. I have a fluoro light aboven them (36 watt) and I use a heating pad to keep them warm (25°C / 80° F is perfect) . I make sure the rockwool cubes never dry out!! I put a gum_elastic around the cubes to keep them tight to the stem. Here are some pics:

dscn0813on6.jpg


clonesvl2.jpg


dscn1418yy4.jpg


dscn1454pf9.jpg


dscn1457nn5.jpg

I do not recommend this :)


Check this also out:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=1416594&postcount=29

Good luck !!
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
Hello med, 90 temps is normally a little too high; the high temps dry the mediums out faster and you don't want that; they need to be at a certain moist level, but never saturated.

You want temps not to exceed 80 F and Keep humidity a little high but not real high; the higher the humidity the harder you will have hardend the clones off. Hardend means when they are removed from the humidity dome and put into pots; you can't just take a cutting out of a humidity dome once it gets roots; otherwise it will wilt and die from shock... going from high humidity to low humidity.

This is why when they root you want to open the dome up for 15 min at a time few times a day so they can get used to it, or you can use anti wilt spray they works good too.

As for the yellowing; that is normal for clones, some yellow some don't but it's a sign the plant is using stored nutrients to help it root.
Depending on the strain and where at on the plant the cutting was taken, lower branches root the quickest; the higher up you go the longer it can take and sometimes they may not root depending on how woody the stem is, the more woody the stem the harder it is for it to root.

Strain related means it's up to the genes in the plant to when it choses to root, some root very quickly some are a pain in the ass and take longer till like half the cutting is nearly dead lol

But never keep the medium saturated keep it moist and never let it dry out completely.
You can mist the dome, but do not mist the plants; the humidity in the dome will keep it moist.
 
G

Guest

anyone know the recommended pH for presoaking rockwool cubes for cloning? sorry if i missed it.
 

DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
irishSoCo said:
anyone know the recommended pH for presoaking rockwool cubes for cloning? sorry if i missed it.

6.8 is always good for RW.
ph down in a 6 bath isnt that bad though.

recently with AN cloneit and jump start ive been getting phat cloens W/100%... but using ffof as my mix






yellow leafs are normal, in rw in the past its been 2 weeks without good roots... i was using cloneX and jumpstart...
leave the dome on, sometimes i leave it on for weeks. theres no rush, well there is, but nothing you can do but provide best conditions it needs.

i go with alot of moisture, 1/4-1/8 inch water on bottom. RO of course.
spray 5-10 times (a day) the first 2 days then usualy 1-2 the next 1-3 days depending. 24/0 4 days then 18/6 70-80deg F

oh, and get yourself a pump sprayer, i got 2 for 13$ at home-de-pot there a life saver.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
It depends on what pH rockwool should be; depends on if your putting it in a hydro setup or a soil setup.

Soiless/hydro needs to be soaked in pH adjusted 5.5 to 6.3
Soil systems 6.4 to 7.0
 
G

Guest

ah, i guess an exact pH isn't as improtant until they actually start developing roots anyway. This would be for hydro. Never used rockwool before, but i like the root development i see with other people, and cloning in peat pellets has been inconsistent for me.

thanks for the answers mynamestitch and digitalhippy :wave:

actually, i've been reading that spraying only slows down root development.

I think i'll probably do a test run with a couple methods, as i'm going to need some faaast rooting in a couple weeks (the less time they take to root, the longer i can veg and still flower them out and dry them before my move).

I guess it possibly won't be an issue at this point, as i'm not sure if i can take enough cuts to meet my needs by the time I need them... :/


so tell me if this sounds good.

-one clone per rockwool cube (the tiny ones)
-85-95%RH
-75-85*F ambient until rooting begins then 75-80*F
-standard cut, plop in RO water, 45* cut, stem split, scrape away outer layer on bottom(for easier root penetration when they start), dip in cloning powder, nail hole in rockwool, stick in hole
-humidity dome
-heating pad
-one 33w fluoro tube per 1'x2' area about 1' above cuts.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
Spraying does slow down root devleopment sometimes; thats why you don't want to keep them in HIGH humidity domes but keep the humidity at a minimum level, this speeds up the hardening off process of removing them from a dome and into the world without high humidity.
I would try to keep the RH around 75-80%

WHat problems have you had in peat pucks?
If you have problems with them, you should try rapid rooters; they are much better than rockwool cubes.....

I would also reccomend NOT using RO water for soaking these cubes in. ROckwool is just a medium and carries no nutrient value unless you add it too it; clones and seedlings both can have issues with rooting when you use it. Nutirnets that are in the tap water( as long as you let it sit out) is good for them and the small micro nutrients helps them ALOT and most people don't realize this......

You cut out those little nutrients the plant needs small amounts of to promote other nutrients to be moved around right in the plant once it's roots are established.

Clones have to go on stored nutrients with or without RO water, but when you use RO they have to use more of the stored nurients in the leaves and this causes them to lose there leaves depending on how much nutrients are removed, mostly nitrogen will be removed at first, but then from there you got other stuff that can go wrong is rooting is taking too long.

So I would not use RO water, unless the plants are big enough to where you can supplement micronutrients like earthjuice microblast.

I always just used a towl for my seedlings and clones; I did try a heating pad but it just dried things out more quickly; I have used both rockwool and peat pucks and liked using peat pucks more.

I used to take the pucks and put them in water with 1 drop of superthrive and soak them, while the pucks were soaking I would take my cuttings and let the ends soak in there after I shaved just a slight layer off at the tip of the clone, then I would cut at an angle at the bottom.

After everything is squeezed out of the pucks I keep in a little moisture where some water will still come out once squeezed and make a hole with a toothpick and stick the clone in there and into the dome; if the dome is too big and does not have enough cuttings to keep up the humidity I had to use a towel.

My cat got into my last dome and destroyed it and could not find a smaller dome like I had so I had to make with what I had. Also keeping those fluro tubes close when they have not rooted is a waste; I find keeping them very close when they have not rooted delays the rooting, why I have no idea why that is... I tried soo many ways when I was learning how to clone and I found when I kept the fluros at a certain level it benefited them more.

I think it may cause them to stretch a bit taller to catch the light and it might force them to help root; that is my theory.....
It's up to you how you want to, I am just telling you my 2 cents on matter, what works for me may not work for you this happens very often around the growing world :)
 
Last edited:
G

Guest

I may be able to grow fine, but cloning is definitely a huge weakness of mine. I can get it done, i just never get good root development til 2 or 3 weeks and i'd like/need to speed that up. so im looking for any advice i can get. DOn't knock on your own advice stitch, its pretty useful, at least for me.

would you say 1f is too close for a 33w tube? Maybe 2-3 feet would be a bit better?

My problem with the peat pellets(pucks) is i tend to let them stay too wet. I have figured ut that a quick way to remove moisture from them is just to set tthem on another peat surface (I just put a dry puck under a wet one and let the dry one fill up halfway). Cloning in perlite works for me, but if i'm doing large numbers its just a pain to check roots.

I haven't used RO water before at all, just didn't know if there was something to the hype. my water is 150-250ppm from the tap and then the pH down adds a few ppm to that, but not much at all. seems to work fine.

When you're prapering a mother plant for cloning, what's your method? I've read just dropping out all N from the mix, but this will give me massive deficiency issues in some of my hungrier strains. How early, how much, and which nutes do you lower, if any, prior to cloning with your moms? (my issue with this is that if one is trying to get the maximum turnover from a mom..aka...as many clones at a time as often as possible....cutting down the nute mix too much will slow down new growth and cut down clone production.)

i like using a dome that basically just barely fits my clones too. maybe an extra couple inches above the clone intiially to account for the stretch and growth during development.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
I take and squeeze out the excess and keep enough to where it's not saturated but a little left over water is in there ot keep them moist untill the plants root.

yes, 2 feet will be better; no higher.

Put it right above the dome when they start to root.
High levels of nitrogen does cause delay in rooting;but I never removed all of it to where it shows a deficiency....... the cuttings that come from the lower part of the plant is the easiest to clone, you want ones with not so woody stems; woody stems make it harder for the plant to protrude roots through the stem; if you use ones that the stems are still soft; it makes it easier for the clone to push it's root through; woody stems sometimes don't even root; it all depends on the strain and the willingness of the plant to root.

I would not cut off no food except for cut nitrogen in half for about a week before taking cuttings and then after taking them beef it back up to where it was before; you can use bloom in place of the nitrogen cut off, phosphorus helps plants root, so you can do that to help with the cuttings so when you have them in your medium they have a better chance of rooting.
 

asa42

Anime n Stoner Aficionado
searching clarification

searching clarification

to those saying misting fresh clones slows rooting... that is for ones in a dome, right? cause w/out a dome it works wonders... ime.
 

chosen

Active member
Veteran
I remember Stich from OG. I can't believe that I haven't run into you earlier.
Happy Holidays...
 

thc43

Active member
Veteran
:rasta: basic cloning here with rw or coco basicly not too wet plant and forget for a week., this batch (mycorrhizae in coco) doesnt look as good as my last using rhizotonic and cooler temps. Atm Hottest Dec and/ or christmas period on record :puppydoge isnt helping. :nono:

:wave:




:lurk:
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
Hehe, hey chosen; I tend to stay right here in the infirmary and post in friends grow threads; once in a while I will make a thread in the tokers den though :)

What handle did you use on overgrow?

Ya, that was me; I used the same handle as I did at OG.

Hey thc; I don't see nothing wrong with the clones in those pics dude; they look fine and healthy!
Or are you talking about clones that is not in the pics you showed?
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top