Strudel, here is how I do it (count the nodes):
1. The leafs at the bottom 2 nodes are trimmed off right up to the stem.
2. The 2 top nodes with nice sized fan leafs count, but the 1-2 tiny developing nodes at the very top do not count.
3. I trim off about 30-50% of each leaf and nip the tip of the each tiny new growth top leaves (this way I now every leaf with a scissor trim were "pre clone leafs", all leafs without a scissor trim are "post clone" leafs).
4. Stem is cut 45 degrees with razor blade about 1/2" below bottom node.
5. Water soak for 2-4 days (water is about 2" deep).
6. Hormex dip (2 bottom nodes submerged for 60 seconds)
7. Stem is inserted in the rooting cube such that the bottom node is completely covered and the 2nd node rests at or slightly above rooting cube surface. When I transplant, the 2nd bottom node is eventually covered and becomes a source for an extra set of surface roots.
I use the small "micro-tip" Fiskar scissors to snip my cuttings, which have a 6" length. Most cases, for the top to have 4-5 fully developed nodes, it will need to be about 4-6". Hmmm, how convenient--my target cutting needs to be about the same length as my scissors. I can do this super stoned and not fuck it up...lol!
Now...how soon can you top? IMO, always leave behind no less than 5 complete node sets (if from seed, first 3 pointed leaf set is node #1--single pointers don't count in my book). So at a minimum the plant will need to show about 9-10 nodes (5 + (4 or 5)) before I snip--gotta leave 5 nodes behind.
For cloning trees (thick stems--you know the ones as big as your baby finger), I found beer cups filled with moistened Promix BX work great. Place the cups inside a 5 gallon bucket and those cheap clear shower caps with elastic bands are perfect covers for the bucket tops. I usually make sure 2-3 nodes are submerged in the Promix. Add a bit of water to the bottom of the bucket to increase humidity.
I use the dome in my routine as "insurance". It provides me with higher humidity when lights are off, prevents air from the many fans to blow directly on the cuttings, and helps keep my DIY promix rooting cubes from drying out (I can easily go 2 weeks without the need to moisten the root cubes). The domed clone tray is placed on the floor under MH lights, right beside the 5 gallon container plants. Every time they were under T5s the leaf tips fried (probably higher UV as the fluorescent lamps are much closer than the MH lamps) and the domes had less humidity. When a spot in the corner on the floor works perfect, why not?...lol. Go figure!
1. The leafs at the bottom 2 nodes are trimmed off right up to the stem.
2. The 2 top nodes with nice sized fan leafs count, but the 1-2 tiny developing nodes at the very top do not count.
3. I trim off about 30-50% of each leaf and nip the tip of the each tiny new growth top leaves (this way I now every leaf with a scissor trim were "pre clone leafs", all leafs without a scissor trim are "post clone" leafs).
4. Stem is cut 45 degrees with razor blade about 1/2" below bottom node.
5. Water soak for 2-4 days (water is about 2" deep).
6. Hormex dip (2 bottom nodes submerged for 60 seconds)
7. Stem is inserted in the rooting cube such that the bottom node is completely covered and the 2nd node rests at or slightly above rooting cube surface. When I transplant, the 2nd bottom node is eventually covered and becomes a source for an extra set of surface roots.
I use the small "micro-tip" Fiskar scissors to snip my cuttings, which have a 6" length. Most cases, for the top to have 4-5 fully developed nodes, it will need to be about 4-6". Hmmm, how convenient--my target cutting needs to be about the same length as my scissors. I can do this super stoned and not fuck it up...lol!
Now...how soon can you top? IMO, always leave behind no less than 5 complete node sets (if from seed, first 3 pointed leaf set is node #1--single pointers don't count in my book). So at a minimum the plant will need to show about 9-10 nodes (5 + (4 or 5)) before I snip--gotta leave 5 nodes behind.
For cloning trees (thick stems--you know the ones as big as your baby finger), I found beer cups filled with moistened Promix BX work great. Place the cups inside a 5 gallon bucket and those cheap clear shower caps with elastic bands are perfect covers for the bucket tops. I usually make sure 2-3 nodes are submerged in the Promix. Add a bit of water to the bottom of the bucket to increase humidity.
I use the dome in my routine as "insurance". It provides me with higher humidity when lights are off, prevents air from the many fans to blow directly on the cuttings, and helps keep my DIY promix rooting cubes from drying out (I can easily go 2 weeks without the need to moisten the root cubes). The domed clone tray is placed on the floor under MH lights, right beside the 5 gallon container plants. Every time they were under T5s the leaf tips fried (probably higher UV as the fluorescent lamps are much closer than the MH lamps) and the domes had less humidity. When a spot in the corner on the floor works perfect, why not?...lol. Go figure!
