What's new
  • ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

Clone top part of the plant

Strudel

Member
Is different or more difficoult to clone the top of the plnt instead side branches or is just i decide to clone the top of my honey banana 6 days ago and still no roots ...humidity 78-88% temperature between 20-24 degree celsius. Under led cold light 18/6 period.

No roots, looks weak and pale leaf...plus some kind of tiny dark christal ball on the stem ...?! Watch carufally the photo...
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    69.7 KB · Views: 11

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
The clone looks very yellow for six days in. Was it that yellow when you started, how close is the light to the clone?
 

Strudel

Member
The clone was already yellow as also the plant had a bit N deficiecy...apart that light is quite near i mean two 1500 lumen led 6400k 15 cm distance, i used clonex gel also...
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    46.1 KB · Views: 9

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
You have to start with a healthy plant, the cutting needs to use the energy stored in it's cells for the rooting process to successfully occur. The light also looks too close to me, but I don't have experience of LEDs!

Sorry to say I think you must start again. Work on getting the mother nice and green and healthy!
 

MrBungle

Well-known member
you can still work with that if that's your only chance with that pheno ... I'd pull off the (4) lower fans, and give em more fresh air while still maintaining moisture in your media and your temps around 78.... I've also found that clones do better in groups... so next time plan it out some so you can have more than one chance for a clone to root... after looking at that first pic you probably coulda turned that into 2 clones you could take the top off that at the lower node leaving those 2 shoots as the top of that clone and used the top as another cut
 

Strudel

Member
Second,,last month i had 3 clones 2 from cbd jam that now are little plants and 1 the top of a blue hawaiian sativa...that died... In my opinion iam going to cut the bigger leaves...keeping humidity around 80% and temperature 20-24 degree celsius with led light 18/6 ...

Root riot is very humid...i am misting the clone 2 times a day with normal water at morning and one time at evening, water i put in only the grooves of low part of the plastic dome is normal water with ph 6.3...

Let'z see... So finally the only advise is to cut the bigger leaves and keep humidity and temperature as i wrote and wait....

May be tomorrow more fresh air..opening a bit the dome ...?
 

MrBungle

Well-known member
yep, at this point the humidity in the dome isnt as important... the fresh air, moist media, and warm temps are...

I find only the first 3-4 days moisture in the dome is somewhat important... after that introducing fresh air (more oxygen) to stimulate the roots to form
 

Wendull C.

Active member
Veteran
Tops take longer, but not by much and you will be rewarded with a cut that is bigger than a smaller cut with some veg time.
I clone only large tops if I can help it. One thing is a lot of dominant tops will wilt after placing them in medium due to their need for much more moisture they just lost from the plant.
If you cut your tops and place them in ro water for a minimum of an hour it will stop them from wilting and makes a healthier cut in the dome. On very large cuts I like to let them soak overnight in an out of the way place in my veg room that doesn't receive any direct light.
Tap water works too.
 

GoatCheese

Active member
Veteran
You can clone a top, no problem. I don't see difference in rooting-time for tops or side-shoots, but i haven't paid much attention to it either..


Also, when the "mom"-plant isn't in the optimal condition , it might take longer than usual to get them to root. Just keep her alive, and you should see roots in time.
:)
 

DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
I routinely soak my cuttings a 3-5 days in plain tap water (yes with chlorine) before dipping and inserting them in root cubes. Think cut roses in a vase with water.

I took the top of a diseased, weak, pitiful, plant and did the water soak thing for 7 days and the new growth was gorgeous and became a vibrant plant. The secret I discovered is to go ahead and trim the leaves before the water soak--not after. Else when you trim the leaf tips, water will ooze out the veins at the cut.

BTW, I have 100% success and usually can go from snip to transplant (including 72 hour water soak) in about two weeks or so. During the water soak most cuttings will grow 1 more leaf set--some 2, crazy! Dipping them 1 minute in undiluted Hormex before inserting them in root cubes helps a bit as well.
 

GoatCheese

Active member
Veteran
I routinely soak my cuttings a 3-5 days in plain tap water (yes with chlorine) before dipping and inserting them in root cubes. Think cut roses in a vase with water.

I took the top of a diseased, weak, pitiful, plant and did the water soak thing for 7 days and the new growth was gorgeous and became a vibrant plant. The secret I discovered is to go ahead and trim the leaves before the water soak--not after. Else when you trim the leaf tips, water will ooze out the veins at the cut.

BTW, I have 100% success and usually can go from snip to transplant (including 72 hour water soak) in about two weeks or so. During the water soak most cuttings will grow 1 more leaf set--some 2, crazy! Dipping them 1 minute in undiluted Hormex before inserting them in root cubes helps a bit as well.



I usually just make sure the mom-plant is nicely watered and i also mist them awhile before i take my cutting ..20-30 mins before i guess.

I mainly use jiffy-pucks and a rooting gel.


But they take root by just sitting in a glass of water if conditions are right.



Temperature is a big factor in rooting time/success as someone already mentioned.

This summer when the room temp was around 25 Celsius, a clone rooted in a week by just sitting in a glass of water. In September when the temps were at 22 C, it took two weeks for a cutting of a same mom to develop similar root bump in water.
 

DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
Goat-

Yep and crazy shit happens too. Yesterday I was doing my normal post water soak routine: remove cutting from water, insert tip into tiny test tube containing 5ml of Hormex, mist leaves with water, then after 60 seconds insert tip in DIY rooting cubes (moistened Promix BX with a dash of Calphos and Mosquito Bits)--and would you believe that one cutting sprouted a 3/4" root shoot while in soaking in water for 4 days.

This particular cutting was sourced from the bottom of the plant and was cut in such a way that less 1/8" of the stem extended below the node (not my normal way).

Hmmm I say. Thinking about experimenting with the next set of cuttings and see how close I can cut to the node (or how far I can cut) to sprout a root shoot within 4 days of water soakeng. Interested if I can repeat the process or is it was one of those crazy anomalies that "just happens" for no particular reason.

BTW, Hormex contains 0.013% Indole-3-butiric acid, 0.24% 1-Naphthaleneacetic acid, & 0.25% vitamin B-1, I bet some or all of the same ingredients are included in your rooting gel, but at reduced levels. I just purchased a quart of Hormex for $33 on Amazon and it works great as a soil feeder at the rate 5ml/gal.

I used to have moms, but discovered I can get along just fine by cloning the top of the plants. Now my veg is 100% production--no special section reserved for moms.

That is how I do it and it works great for me.
 

Scrappy-doo

Well-known member
Veteran
I always clone tops. Right into a cup of straight coco and water it in with a clonex solution, and then straight into the veg room. No dome, no misting, nothing. 7-10 days damn near 100%. Anywhere from 45-80% humidity doesn't seem to make a damn difference. All my cloning problems went away when I switched to this method and just leave them be. If they start to wilt I water them which usually happens once before they root. When you can see the coco looks pretty dry and they aren't wilted you know they have roots.
 
Top