Chronic Powdery Mildew Problems

[growing up]

Hi All. I just finished my third grow with some sub average results. I'm dealing with a nice Purple, some Blue Dragon, and some Widow and I've lost a lot of my crop to powdery mildew. I've been dealing with this since my first grow of some sub standard Pot of Gold. Now from every grow onward I've had plants infected. Some strains are more susceptible than others..like the POG and Dragon. I'm running a 6 X 10 room with two fans in the corner and one opposite on the wall. I have a dehumidifier but I realize I need to crank it up more when the lights are off because I get up to 60%. Possibly get another dehumidifier. I've got a problem corner isolated in my room that gets particularly powdery so I'm going to put another fan in. I also spray from veg to first few weeks of flowering with Serenade, which works great, but of once I stop the PM comes back with a vengeance. My question is, does this stuff hang around in the room to infect incoming plants? I keep a clean room but should I disinfect the heck out of the room before I put new ones in? And with what? Any other preventative measures that I can do? This has been a real drag on my grow and I need to get to the bottom of this PM problem. Thanks in advance.

 

[Guest3498]

Bleach your rooms and hit your vegn with eagle 20

http://www.dowagro.com/turf/prod/eagle.htm

 

[MIway]

Take a look at your RH & Temp for the first hour after the lights go out... check it every 10-15 minutes & log the differences you have vs the day time. And as the temps change outside, recheck the values at lights off.

Usually, when the heat goes down real fast (lights go off), the overall moisture in the room stays, but at lower temps, the RH necessarily must spike. And this is when/where most mold takes it first foothold... and uses this period to go ape shit each & every night.

You can exchange the air out really fast, which really only has a lot of benefit if the outside rh is low... and to run electric space heaters to bump the temps higher than during the lights on period... this will actually lower the RH... plus at higher temps (over 80)... PM finds it very difficult to germinate.


And, there are now latent spores all over your room & gear... fans, floors, walls, ceilings, reflectors, cord sets, pots, scissors, the door, in the air vents... on the plants... and on you. But, its just in the air naturally. It wouldn't hurt to bleach and/or physan everything... and to do so in between each crop, jic.

Good luck bro... mold sucks monkey balls.

 

[paladin420]

See Krunchbubble's Thread read read read..

 

[The Revolution]

Once Pm is present on your plants or cuttings, it will never go away. Think of it as Herpes for plants. There is no cure. When conditions in your growroom are just right the PM will come rearing its ugly head. (high humitidy, dampness)
I first experienced pm after taking in many different cuttings from all over the world. PM is very bad out west in Cali, so if u have recently taking in cuttings this could be where it come from. The mold spores are released and may not actually develop PM until conditions are right, but like I said u will never get rid of it unless u hit it at the source.
Its a sad thing, but u may need to get rid of all of your mother plants/cuttings, clean your garden thoroughly, and start fresh if u ever want to completely rid your garden of PM.
I had to do it.
There are some products that claim to eliminate the pm, but from what Ive read they are very dangerous chemicals, and aren't 100% proven to eliminate the threat.
Do yourself a favor and start fresh from seed, or clones you know are clean of pm or mite infestations.

 

[Herborizer]

Absolutely there is a cure, it's called Eagle20.

 

[Zen Master]

Once Pm is present on your plants or cuttings, it will never go away. Think of it as Herpes for plants. There is no cure.

false

PM is not systemic.

It needs proper temps/humidity to reproduce and can be eliminated from a garden, but only if you remove the atmospheric issues that caused it in the first place. PM spores are everywhere and will be introduced into the grow room unless a grower is hypervigilant about it. Most people keep conditions under control and use a preventative treatment once in a while to stop an outbreak before it starts.

if your conditions are ripe for PM, spraying wont do anything but make them look better for a couple days till it comes back.

 

[Guest3498]

Absolutely there is a cure, it's called Eagle20.

Bingo.

Funny how people who say too it's dangerous to use never have anything to back up their claims except their own opinions. Ever drink wine? Those grapes were probably sprayed with 100x more eagle20 (or similar products) than our gardens ever will be. Silliness.

 

[pinecone]

I personally wouldn't use Eagle 20 or smoke any buds that it was used on. Organic growers from the Pacific Northwest, where PM is a persistent problem, have other ways to deal with PM. For some ideas see the following thread - particularly post by Capt. Cheeze1 and CC2_U.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=214561

Pine

 

[BudGood]

Bleach your rooms and hit your vegn with eagle 20

http://www.dowagro.com/turf/prod/eagle.htm

Absolutely there is a cure, it's called Eagle20.

Bingo.

Funny how people who say too it's dangerous to use never have anything to back up their claims except their own opinions. Ever drink wine? Those grapes were probably sprayed with 100x more eagle20 (or similar products) than our gardens ever will be. Silliness.

Don't be afraid of something you've never used. Just make sure to use all proper PPE (personal protective equipment) and read all directions.

I personally would NEVER spray Eagle20 in bloom, only in veg. That way, any chance of residual left after flowering is negligible.

BTW, I've never seen a 100% effective organic method, so Eagle20 it is. Same goes for Floramite, Forbid, Avid... Anything sprayed in veg remains healthy, bug/PM free for the entire flowering period. (unless you're stupid enough to reintroduce vectors into your grow). I'd much rather smoke a plant that I *know* has no PM/bug issues, than wonder if the organic treatments really did the trick. It's not rocket science to use these chemicals responsibly, safely, and reliably, IMHO.

 

[stoney-trees]

do you eagle20 owners see little blackish specs form on the bottle after shaking? Its like they get washed up or something...dont know if I got an old bottle or not?

 

[paladin420]

I hav recently met PM. I'm perpetual. Product, PM Wash ,presented by 'that stuff' seems to work the best. Nice knock down of existin pm. Seems to keep I from spreading. Although I hav followed the sage advice of many wise Heads here and gotten control of my envro. Thanks

 

[BudGood]

do you eagle20 owners see little blackish specs form on the bottle after shaking? Its like they get washed up or something...dont know if I got an old bottle or not?

Never seen that, mine is chalky white.

 

[Herborizer]

false

PM is not systemic.

It needs proper temps/humidity to reproduce and can be eliminated from a garden, but only if you remove the atmospheric issues that caused it in the first place. PM spores are everywhere and will be introduced into the grow room unless a grower is hypervigilant about it. Most people keep conditions under control and use a preventative treatment once in a while to stop an outbreak before it starts.

if your conditions are ripe for PM, spraying wont do anything but make them look better for a couple days till it comes back.

At one point I kept a stable 29-35% RH and a perfect 77F in my grow-room. PM was prevalent and couldn't be stopped.

Eagle 20 is the only solution I have success with.

 

[FreezerBoy]

I second bleach. Kills it dead. Toss out everything porous, including plants and soils or mixes, sterilize everything else, start with new plants.

 

[greenmatter]

I personally wouldn't use Eagle 20 or smoke any buds that it was used on. Organic growers from the Pacific Northwest, where PM is a persistent problem, have other ways to deal with PM. For some ideas see the following thread - particularly post by Capt. Cheeze1 and CC2_U.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=214561

Pine

in your situation i would not use it either. eagle 20 works great, but if i had to use it on a regular basis i would most likely go back to a non chemical solution.

 

[BudGood]

I second bleach. Kills it dead. Toss out everything porous, including plants and soils or mixes, sterilize everything else, start with new plants.

Sounds good in theory, but some of us have very rare and precious genetics that we're not just gonna throw out without a fight!


But, if you have something you can easily come by again, then I agree, trash and bleach/physan EVERYTHING!

 

[Herborizer]

Bingo.

Funny how people who say too it's dangerous to use never have anything to back up their claims except their own opinions. Ever drink wine? Those grapes were probably sprayed with 100x more eagle20 (or similar products) than our gardens ever will be. Silliness.

Yep. Grapes and tons of other things we are exposed to all the time. Like ever play golf? The grass is LOADED with fungicides.

 

[greenmatter]

Yep. Grapes and tons of other things we are exposed to all the time. Like ever play golf? The grass is LOADED with fungicides.

i read someplace that worm castings are a problem on golf courses..... from what i read the worms bring nutrients and minerals to the surface so they can stick to stupid looking shoes maybe it is time to take off the stupid shoes and put on the thinking cap

 

[grapeman]

Any decent fungicide will eliminate the problem. Eagle is the one that is used most in these threads due to it's availability via eBay. but there are many others and many are better (Elite, Flint, Bayleton, Rally, Pristine to name a few).

But what I find irrational is the outright statements by some that they would never use these types of products. To each his own.

BTW - California table grapes are NOT loaded with these types of products (foreign wine and table grapes maybe). These are high tech, specifically targeted fungicides that are applied in rates of grams or ounces per acre (500 to 700 vines/acre depending on spacing). Additionally, all these fungicides have days to re-entry and days to harvest on the labels. Re-entry is usually 1 day or when dry, the minimum the government could come up with. Days to harvest are usually never more the 14 days, which means that the $5 million dollars spent by the developing company was used to show that the applied product was either NOT detected in 14 days after application or was within safe limits (usually in ppm's of single digits or less).

So even though it is still a free country and folks can choose what they want to eat or smoke, to recommend an effective "organic" cure to an already infected crop is labor intensive, spray intensive, ineffective and insane.