Deviant420
Member
My plants don't care about the 1.5 ppm of chlorine they see. Yes, I water straight from the tap in organic soil with a endo-mycor herd.
Chlorine/Chloramine Discussion
- Thread starter Dignan
- Start date
organick
Member
Deviant 420: I'll offer 20cents a gallon are you within bike ridding distance of LA?
If I watered strait with my water: every thing stops.........for about 2-4 days then stays sluggish about a week more. Amazing things happen with an air pump 36 hours and some ewc (and other things). Looking for a plumber to hook-up and RO cheap, then probably tap only for outdoor.
C21h: Less is more and chronicleing it up with pics and posts. I'll be watching your no bottle thread almost as much as I watch "My Bare Lady". Good Show, both.
Dig: the nan.
I'm good to my fish and my fish are good to me. Ro (no tap ever! they die every time!) and 3-4 drops per gallon conditioner in.....the Kind water out. Stuff in the jug is after cleaning off so much algae, the tank walls where green. Serious, water this stuff on new grass in the morning you can see it grow, if you wait long enough.
If I watered strait with my water: every thing stops.........for about 2-4 days then stays sluggish about a week more. Amazing things happen with an air pump 36 hours and some ewc (and other things). Looking for a plumber to hook-up and RO cheap, then probably tap only for outdoor.
C21h: Less is more and chronicleing it up with pics and posts. I'll be watching your no bottle thread almost as much as I watch "My Bare Lady". Good Show, both.
Dig: the nan.
I'm good to my fish and my fish are good to me. Ro (no tap ever! they die every time!) and 3-4 drops per gallon conditioner in.....the Kind water out. Stuff in the jug is after cleaning off so much algae, the tank walls where green. Serious, water this stuff on new grass in the morning you can see it grow, if you wait long enough.
Last edited:
DonChron
Member
true that organick..would that provide the same nutrients as sea kelp, folic acid etc??
dank chlorine write up though, my tap has enough chlorine and fluorine to kill plants...locks them up,ph flies sky high,they die.. I use RO left to sit out for 24 hours,the system has a built in UV (blacklight) that decontaminates all harmful chemicals..
thanks for the post dignan ,long ago as it was
dank chlorine write up though, my tap has enough chlorine and fluorine to kill plants...locks them up,ph flies sky high,they die.. I use RO left to sit out for 24 hours,the system has a built in UV (blacklight) that decontaminates all harmful chemicals..
thanks for the post dignan ,long ago as it was
Vetus Fossor
Member
Vitamin C will remove chloramine from city water for those of us whose local water companies use it. Bubbling your water won't remove chlormine. You got to break the chemical bond. Organic matter will. But like Organick, I use water from an aquarium. But instead of fish we have turtles. There are fish in there sometimes but only long enough to become dinner. Turtles like sushi. Especially when it serves itself by swimming right up to them.
minds_I said:
Hello all,
Well, shit what can I say...phuquing with powdered milk, wood ash and epsom salts was a pain in the ass, very easy to phuque up and just not any joy in it.
I have since bought a bottle of calmag and have not looked back.
With my city water bubbled is only 25ppm and the dolomite lime added to my soil in conjunction with using liquid ferts that are acidic (fish and ej bloom) and the addition of molasses and kelp which have MG and Ca in them was just not enough.
If vitimin C will do the job I presume vinegar would also do the job since they are both acids. There are micro nutes in vinegar. I do not know what vitimin C brings to the table so its just a suggestion.
Anyway, I also wanted to mention the link between chlorine and cancer...google it and see for yourself.
minds_I
Deviant420
Member
organick said:
Negative Sir. Farther east. I do only get 30ppm out the tap, so...
C
CT Guy
Sorry, haven't been on here in a bit, but felt the need to chime in on this thread.
Couple of points:
1. The original post was from Ted Petersen. If you're a part of the compost tea forum, then you'll know already that he likes to talk about the research he does, yet he has never instituted adequate controls or shown any usable data. I'm not stating that he's wrong in this case, but I'd hardly take his statements at face value. We've had long standing disagreements, and he and Elaine do not see eye to eye on any subject matter that I know of. Personally, I think he makes statments to come across as an expert, but does not know how to adequately conduct a field test or basic experiment. Again, just my opinion though, and it's very apparent on the yahoo group that we don't agree on many things within the compost tea industry.
2. In regards to chloramines and chlorine, I've of the camp that believes that it's so easy to remove, why not take care of it ahead of time and prevent any organism loss. We're trying to maximize our teas, so this seems like a no-brainer in this regard.
3. Products that are used to remove cholamines are humic acids and ascorbic acids. I know Elaine recommends adding enough humic acids to turn the water a dark brown color. I use a product called Vita d chlor when I want to brew up 250 gal. of tea and don't want to wait for the chlorine to dissapate. I called their company earlier this year and talked to one of their scientists. He told me that a 500 mg tablet of vitamin C would take care of 15-20 gal. of chloramined water. Haven't personally tested it out, as it's not in our water supply, but I would take his word for it based on what I already know about chloramine and the fact he works in the water purification industry for a living.
Hope this info. helps!
Couple of points:
1. The original post was from Ted Petersen. If you're a part of the compost tea forum, then you'll know already that he likes to talk about the research he does, yet he has never instituted adequate controls or shown any usable data. I'm not stating that he's wrong in this case, but I'd hardly take his statements at face value. We've had long standing disagreements, and he and Elaine do not see eye to eye on any subject matter that I know of. Personally, I think he makes statments to come across as an expert, but does not know how to adequately conduct a field test or basic experiment. Again, just my opinion though, and it's very apparent on the yahoo group that we don't agree on many things within the compost tea industry.
2. In regards to chloramines and chlorine, I've of the camp that believes that it's so easy to remove, why not take care of it ahead of time and prevent any organism loss. We're trying to maximize our teas, so this seems like a no-brainer in this regard.
3. Products that are used to remove cholamines are humic acids and ascorbic acids. I know Elaine recommends adding enough humic acids to turn the water a dark brown color. I use a product called Vita d chlor when I want to brew up 250 gal. of tea and don't want to wait for the chlorine to dissapate. I called their company earlier this year and talked to one of their scientists. He told me that a 500 mg tablet of vitamin C would take care of 15-20 gal. of chloramined water. Haven't personally tested it out, as it's not in our water supply, but I would take his word for it based on what I already know about chloramine and the fact he works in the water purification industry for a living.
Hope this info. helps!
I'd like to chime as well in support of what Tad (CT guy) has said here.
Ted does raise interesting points occasionally and some are quite valid. He does not usually use a scientific method to conduct his 'experiments' and many of his conclusions are skewed because of this. I have come to many (semi) conclusions directly opposed to his. I have encouraged him to state things as his opinion rather than as facts to no avail. His knowledge of soil and compost microbes appears a little outdated and often incorrect. Please do filter and validate information coming from this source.
Concerning chlorine and chloramines consider the following post from someone I respect;
"I found your chlorine test interesting and decided to do the same to put my arguement that reducing sugars in the molasses would handle the chlorine and chloramine.
Using a similar test strip that tests for both free and total
chlorine, I found my city water to have 0.5ppm free and 1.5 ppm of free and total chlorine,respectively. Testing 1 gal and 5 gal of city water, I added 1/4 teaspoon of molasses to each. The reaction was not instantaneous but the kinetics were faster than I would have guessed.
The one gallon reaction showed no dectable chlorine of either type withing 3 minutes. At 5 gallons, I obtained the same result within 20 minutes."
Ted does raise interesting points occasionally and some are quite valid. He does not usually use a scientific method to conduct his 'experiments' and many of his conclusions are skewed because of this. I have come to many (semi) conclusions directly opposed to his. I have encouraged him to state things as his opinion rather than as facts to no avail. His knowledge of soil and compost microbes appears a little outdated and often incorrect. Please do filter and validate information coming from this source.
Concerning chlorine and chloramines consider the following post from someone I respect;
"I found your chlorine test interesting and decided to do the same to put my arguement that reducing sugars in the molasses would handle the chlorine and chloramine.
Using a similar test strip that tests for both free and total
chlorine, I found my city water to have 0.5ppm free and 1.5 ppm of free and total chlorine,respectively. Testing 1 gal and 5 gal of city water, I added 1/4 teaspoon of molasses to each. The reaction was not instantaneous but the kinetics were faster than I would have guessed.
The one gallon reaction showed no dectable chlorine of either type withing 3 minutes. At 5 gallons, I obtained the same result within 20 minutes."
PS. Ted actually was not banned from the forum and still has posting privileges. His posts were screened occasionally because he was very brutal sometimes on other members.
One Love
Member
Going to give my tap water a run again. I've had such a hard time finding a quality source of water that i'm seconds away from ordering an RO machine (although this was said to provide the weakest tea?). I really would like the ease of using my tap, but have awful high ph water (8.5). I used to bubble for 24 hours before adding nutes to remove chlorine. Going to try some ewc teas and see if i still get the same lockout as before.
Good thread guys, keep showing us the way...
Good thread guys, keep showing us the way...
C
CT Guy
I don't think you need to worry about the vitamin C in the water, I can't imagine it having an effect on the tea itself or if so, I feel like it would be negligible in those amounts.
^ thanks CT guy, maybe I need to re phrase my question. what happens to the chloramine / ammonia when you add ascorbic acid ( vitamin C ) ? does it change to a different chemical? are we thinking kindergarden that it just "disappears" ??
I'm just trying to get a "view" at what happens microscopic / chemical level to the chloramine when you add vitamin C to it. It's interesting that the vitamin C also "absorbs / kills " the ammonia as I thought it would just "eat" up the chloramine leaving the ammonia behind, but no trace was found... I would also like to know what else the vitamin C changes in the water as there are many trace elements
I guess also what I'm getting after as we have a couple options for chloramine removal, is what is the easiest approach to it, as I predict all water will be switched over to chloramine instead of chlorine. is buying carbon / zeolite cheaper then buying vitamin C... ???
I have tested sitting out water and still there, will not go away after 15 days so I'm off to do tests on carbon / zeolite / vitamin C.
I'm just trying to get a "view" at what happens microscopic / chemical level to the chloramine when you add vitamin C to it. It's interesting that the vitamin C also "absorbs / kills " the ammonia as I thought it would just "eat" up the chloramine leaving the ammonia behind, but no trace was found... I would also like to know what else the vitamin C changes in the water as there are many trace elements
I guess also what I'm getting after as we have a couple options for chloramine removal, is what is the easiest approach to it, as I predict all water will be switched over to chloramine instead of chlorine. is buying carbon / zeolite cheaper then buying vitamin C... ???
I have tested sitting out water and still there, will not go away after 15 days so I'm off to do tests on carbon / zeolite / vitamin C.
The chlorine which is an oxidizer is neutralized by ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate (vit C) which is an anti-oxidant. I have a PDF but could not figure out how to attach it to this. Suggestions?
