Chitin for prevention of Budrot

[25ftGreatWhite]

i believe what your referring to is botrytis and is due to your environment (consistent high RH), so not matter what you do your plants will be susceptible to rotting due to this fungus. using actinovate or chitin, or silica, or heavy fungicides like elevate can only do so much. having proper strain selection, dialed soil and a good watering regime can also only do so much. growing in high RH environments bud rot and botrytis will always be present.

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

i believe what your referring to is botrytis and is due to your environment (consistent high RH), so not matter what you do your plants will be susceptible to rotting due to this fungus. using actinovate or chitin, or silica, or heavy fungicides like elevate can only do so much. having proper strain selection, dialed soil and a good watering regime can also only do so much. growing in high RH environments bud rot and botrytis will always be present.

its always gonna be present which is why im doing everthing i can this year in prevention..1 strain so far is all i have found that thrives in my 90-100% humidity but it gets old and boring smoking same stuff all year..so thats why im going to go at this approach with a 3 prong attack..outdoor proven strains, liquid sea weed,silica,actinovate,neem/karanja oil,sns244c,greencure,bud factor x and a healthy soil which i was not using prior to last year..if all these things only help me 20-25% of less chance to get hit with bud rot then thats fine with me..i would rather have a 20-25% less chance then a full 100% chance..i lost nearly everthing last year due to this shit..i did read though that chitosen can be as high as 80% to helping prevent this stuff..the cell wall of the fungi comes into contact with chitosen and it bursts and it cannot germinate..

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

Well I can't really afford to buy any products with chitin included, in fact I'm trying to stay away from products altogether. However I do include Fox, Badger and Pine Marten faeces as well as Barn Owl castings in my compost, all of which are full of insect shells. I suppose that must help. I've also noticed that the leaf mould I collect is full of dead beetle wing cases etc. I wonder just how broken.down it'd need to be to be any use to the plants or microorganisms.

I like the idea of attacking the roots or stem with a stag beetle jaw. I might have to give that a try, I think i have one lying around somewhere!

i was totally skint last year and wasnt able to buy nothing other then some miracle gro soil and nutes..i suffered big time but i do admit the strain choices wasnt that great either so i took 75% of what i made last year and invested it into my grow for this year so hopefully the outcome will be alot better..
the stuff u collect sounds good it should be high in chitin which is great

 

[gunnaknow]

i believe what your referring to is botrytis and is due to your environment (consistent high RH), so not matter what you do your plants will be susceptible to rotting due to this fungus. using actinovate or chitin, or silica, or heavy fungicides like elevate can only do so much. having proper strain selection, dialed soil and a good watering regime can also only do so much. growing in high RH environments bud rot and botrytis will always be present.

Realistically speaking, the aim should be to minimize the losses.

its always gonna be present which is why im doing everthing i can this year in prevention..1 strain so far is all i have found that thrives in my 90-100% humidity...

You may wish to try some of the Danish or Nordic strains, as many of them have been selectively bred for mold resistance.

What time of year is the humidity or precipitation at it's highest in your location? You may be able to time the planting so that they miss the peak window while they're in full bloom.

gunna

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

Realistically speaking, the aim should be to minimize the losses.

What time of year is the humidity or precipitation at it's highest in your location? You may be able to time the planting so that they miss the peak window while they're in full bloom.

gunna

Thats exactly what im gonna do gunna try to minimize my loss,if anyone goes thur what i did last year with bud rot then they will also try everthing they can to lessen the chances of this fkn spore!! my humidity is highest between july1-sept10th after that it will drop down to around 65-75% for rest of year..i got 5 strains from HFH but not gonna get to run them till i finish up the feminized strains i got..
i have also thought about getting some longer flowering strains to test out like malawi,kali mist or something from the real seed company,these 2 strains below in bold might be a good one for me..i also read alot of silverbacks threads and since he was in the same area as me i picked up a few strains that him and Dstoker grew here so should have some good success this year..
i also got the greencure after reading his thread and i will be on the prevention plan hardcore this year..Ace has also got some long flowering strains that i may get for 2016 as well..
i got my seeds already for this year and ive did alot of research...ive sit here litterly 12-14 hrs a day ever day since last oct to see what strains did good and what to use to prevent budrot..team microbe is doing the kc33 & spotnica this year from Kcbrains so i will follow that journal and see how they turn out. did u see my strain list for this year? what u think about it along with the things i mention in the first few pages to combat budrot? im open to all ideals.

"This is the strongest charas plant RSC has found yet in Kumaon, and probably the best too, with intense lemony, fruity aromas. Highly recommended to collectors seeking a rare and totally authentic. This strain can withstand the intense rain and humidity of the Himalayan monsoon, as well as the bitter cold of autumn nights at up to 3500m, so is well suited to adapting to outdoor use in northern climates."

"This is a potent charas strain from the mountains of Western Nepal, now used to produce hashish through both the hand-rubbing and sieving methods. Cultivated at altitudes between about 1000m-3000m, there are two main phenotypes to be found in this strain: one between about 1.5m - 2m, and another closer to 3m. The compact phenotype has short internodes and tight bud formation. This Nepalese variety has great breeding potential for both tropical and northern growers, with excellent resistance to mold and cold, as well as highly refined resins and superb potency."

 

[gunnaknow]

my humidity is highest between july1-sept10th after that it will drop down to around 65-75% for rest of year...

In that case, it might be better to plant a combination of autos and late flowering varieties. The autos could be harvested before July 1st if started early enough, and the buds on the late flowering varieties should still be relatively airy before Sept 10th.

i have also thought about getting some longer flowering strains to test out like malawi,kali mist or something from the real seed company,these 2 strains below in bold might be a good one for me...

"This is the strongest charas plant RSC has found yet in Kumaon, and probably the best too, with intense lemony, fruity aromas. Highly recommended to collectors seeking a rare and totally authentic. This strain can withstand the intense rain and humidity of the Himalayan monsoon, as well as the bitter cold of autumn nights at up to 3500m, so is well suited to adapting to outdoor use in northern climates."

"This is a potent charas strain from the mountains of Western Nepal, now used to produce hashish through both the hand-rubbing and sieving methods. Cultivated at altitudes between about 1000m-3000m, there are two main phenotypes to be found in this strain: one between about 1.5m - 2m, and another closer to 3m. The compact phenotype has short internodes and tight bud formation. This Nepalese variety has great breeding potential for both tropical and northern growers, with excellent resistance to mold and cold, as well as highly refined resins and superb potency."

Yes, it may well be a good idea to try such landraces, as they have adapted to very humid conditions; possibly over centuries, rather than just a few generations. Landraces often have greater disease resistance than modern cultivars, and there is evidence that it in some cases they show a greater response to elicitors of SAR:

"In some interesting recent work, basal and induced resistance in P. vulgaris was shown to be influenced by domestication. Córdova-Campos et al. (2012) found that basal resistance to the bacterial pathogen P. syringae pv. syringae was significantly greater in wild accessions of bean than in modern cultivars. Moreover, ASM treatment elevated resistance to pathogen infection in a wild accession and a landrace, but not in the modern cultivars. It appears, therefore, that the yield-improved modern cultivars of P. vulgaris have lost a considerable part of the basal and induced broad-spectrum resistance that characterizes their wild relatives and landraces (Córdova-Campos et al., 2012)."

http://jxb.oxfordjournals.org/content/early/2013/02/04/jxb.ert026.full.pdf

i also read alot of silverbacks threads and since he was in the same area as me i picked up a few strains that him and Dstoker grew here so should have some good success this year...

Ace has also got some long flowering strains that i may get for 2016 as well...

did u see my strain list for this year? what u think about it

I think that I may have read your strain list at some point. It's certainly a good idea to test several strains to find out what grows best in your location. There is evidence that the host plant's genotype can affect the expression of induced resistance, so it would be a good idea to test several strains when using elicitors of SAR or ISR:

"Host genotype is known to affect the expression of induced resistance (Martenelli et al., 1993; Hijwegen and Verhaar, 1994; Dann et al., 1998; Resende et al., 2002; Tucci et al., 2011). For example, Walters et al. (2011a) examined the influence of host genotype on the expression of induced resistance in barley to foliar pathogens, including the leaf scald fungus R. commune. Using a combination of resistance elicitors (ASM, BABA and cis-jasmone) they found that expression of induced resistance varied greatly across a range of spring barley varieties. Some varieties did not express induced resistance at all and, interestingly, there was no apparent association between the resistance rating of the variety to R. commune and its ability to express induced resistance (Walters et al., 2011a). In a similar vein, tomato genotypes varied significantly in their expression of BABA-induced resistance against Phytophthora infestans (Sharma et al., 2010). Here, the level of induction was not always related to the resistance rating of the tomato accession, and was significantly influenced by the pathogen isolate."

http://jxb.oxfordjournals.org/content/early/2013/02/04/jxb.ert026.full.pdf


gunna

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

In that case, it might be better to plant a combination of autos and late flowering varieties. The autos could be harvested before July 1st if started early enough, and the buds on the late flowering varieties should still be relatively airy before Sept 10th.



Yes, it may well be a good idea to try such landraces, as they have adapted to very humid conditions; possibly over centuries, rather than just a few generations. Landraces often have greater disease resistance than modern cultivars, and there is evidence that it in some cases they show a greater response to elicitors of SAR:

"In some interesting recent work, basal and induced resistance in P. vulgaris was shown to be influenced by domestication. Córdova-Campos et al. (2012) found that basal resistance to the bacterial pathogen P. syringae pv. syringae was significantly greater in wild accessions of bean than in modern cultivars. Moreover, ASM treatment elevated resistance to pathogen infection in a wild accession and a landrace, but not in the modern cultivars. It appears, therefore, that the yield-improved modern cultivars of P. vulgaris have lost a considerable part of the basal and induced broad-spectrum resistance that characterizes their wild relatives and landraces (Córdova-Campos et al., 2012)."

http://jxb.oxfordjournals.org/content/early/2013/02/04/jxb.ert026.full.pdf



I think that I may have read your strain list at some point. It's certainly a good idea to test several strains to find out what grows best in your location. There is evidence that the host plant's genotype can affect the expression of induced resistance, so it would be a good idea to test several strains when using elicitors of SAR or ISR:

"Host genotype is known to affect the expression of induced resistance (Martenelli et al., 1993; Hijwegen and Verhaar, 1994; Dann et al., 1998; Resende et al., 2002; Tucci et al., 2011). For example, Walters et al. (2011a) examined the influence of host genotype on the expression of induced resistance in barley to foliar pathogens, including the leaf scald fungus R. commune. Using a combination of resistance elicitors (ASM, BABA and cis-jasmone) they found that expression of induced resistance varied greatly across a range of spring barley varieties. Some varieties did not express induced resistance at all and, interestingly, there was no apparent association between the resistance rating of the variety to R. commune and its ability to express induced resistance (Walters et al., 2011a). In a similar vein, tomato genotypes varied significantly in their expression of BABA-induced resistance against Phytophthora infestans (Sharma et al., 2010). Here, the level of induction was not always related to the resistance rating of the tomato accession, and was significantly influenced by the pathogen isolate."

http://jxb.oxfordjournals.org/content/early/2013/02/04/jxb.ert026.full.pdf


gunna

thanks so much for all the links and advice Gunna. i plan on doing a bit of everthing that u said autos,late season,prevention sprays and some landrace strains..i want to find 4 more strains that does just as well as the delahaze does here so i will have a nice variety to smoke each all year long.
If u find any more links or anything for prevention of bud rot then please keep posting it here in this thread..i would like to fill this thread with advice from everone with any prevention success of any kind and also with chiteson and Salycilic Acid as SAR/ISR inducers.

 

[GET MO]

Jus got my chitosan from china, we will see how it does the plants....

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

Jus got my chitosan from china, we will see how it does the plants....

sweet bro please update in this thread once u give it a try. Im looking forward to seeing how it works for u.

 

[Mikenite69]

I just picked up bags of the crustation meal and crab meal both made by healthy plant for 10 bucks for a 3lb bag of each. They both actually have chitin in them and plants seem to really respond to them. If u mulch it into your soil u will not smell it that bad I burried mine about a inch or two down and I don't smell it at all indoors.

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

I just picked up bags of the crustation meal and crab meal both made by healthy plant for 10 bucks for a 3lb bag of each. They both actually have chitin in them and plants seem to really respond to them. If u mulch it into your soil u will not smell it that bad I burried mine about a inch or two down and I don't smell it at all indoors.

i got 4 plants in living soil and they have crustaceion meal in it and the plants are looking really good. i also have insect frass,bat guano and bud factor x they all have chitin in it so i will test out which one the plants like the most this year. thanks for sharing mikenite69

 

[GET MO]

I dont know if its coincidence but plants I dont give a spray to around week 4 seem more prone to powdery. everything i have sprayed with it ive seen no powdery on. Think I'll put it in me regimen to spray once at week 4 with this stuff. Thats really the only area I notice any difference tho. heard it kills stem nematodes but never had those to test it in.

 

[Kygiacomo!!!]

I dont know if its coincidence but plants I dont give a spray to around week 4 seem more prone to powdery. everything i have sprayed with it ive seen no powdery on. Think I'll put it in me regimen to spray once at week 4 with this stuff. Thats really the only area I notice any difference tho. heard it kills stem nematodes but never had those to test it in.

ya bro chitosan is good shit. it also helps frost ur plants up like no other. i use insect frass and bud factor x as both has chitin/chitosan in it. it also adds billions of microbes to the plants if organic is ur thing.