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Cheap DIY Drying Trunk
- Thread starter BonsaiGrower
- Start date
G
Guest
Timer on fan???
Timer on fan???
Hey bonsai! love the box! I had a Q for you. Did you put the fan on a timer, so that it didnt get too dry too fast? I was wondering if you could get better results (not faster) if you put the fan on a timer set for 15/45 (min, on/off.)
Im sure with them being ready so fast, you didnt have the fan on a timer. So my next Q is, how was the quality after cure? Would you say they were just as good as a slow dry?
Timer on fan???
Hey bonsai! love the box! I had a Q for you. Did you put the fan on a timer, so that it didnt get too dry too fast? I was wondering if you could get better results (not faster) if you put the fan on a timer set for 15/45 (min, on/off.)
Im sure with them being ready so fast, you didnt have the fan on a timer. So my next Q is, how was the quality after cure? Would you say they were just as good as a slow dry?
S
slackerbri
that trunk is pretty trick, I was thinking about doing something incredibly similar using a large plastic tote since I dont have a trunk to work with but I now I wish I did
kovenant
Member
dasme said:
he said:
BonsaiGrower said:
sounds like he prefered it to drying in a room - and the buds actually smelled better from drying in the trunk.
as for the timer - i suppose for anyone building a dry box, it would depend on the build, the temperature/humidity of your environment, and the strain (density of the buds) on whether you should incorperate a timer. sounds like he sure didnt need one.
awesome job BG!
KING_JOHN_C
Member
Great idea
Gabreilriley
New member
Not the best picture, but that’s probably wood covered in leather or canvas with what looks to be harness leather reinforcing at the edges and handles and wooden strips reinforcing the front and top. The metalwork will probably be brass.
Now I’m not sure what that one is made of and I’ve only ever built solid wood trunks but to get this look I’d take a leaf from centuries of boatbuilding and make the frame and protective strips out of oak and the body out of ash.
Oak is durable, strong and dense. Ideal properties for a sturdy frame. It wears well so having the protective bumpers made out of that would work well too. However it’s heavy and not very flexible. The flexibility bit is important as in order to make the trunk light enough to use you would have to use quite thin planks for the body. Thin light oak would tend to break comparatively easily if it was bumped or banged when it was being loaded or unloaded onto trains, boats, planes etc. Ash however is much lighter and more elastic than oak and so you could use a thicker Ash plank for the same weight as Oak, that would be more resilient and less liable to be damaged if it were bumped or banged.
Covering the whole thing with oiled leather was one of the ways of water and dustproofing trunks, though they were often covered in canvas as well. Many of course were only the bare wood from dewalt router table insert plate had no covering at all. I’ve successfully reclaimed “antique” leather from old leather sofas that would have the aged patina needed for a project like this. Furniture leather would be the ideal weight for covering a trunk.
You can buy harness leather by the strip or by the whole side (half a skin) and although it is thick and heavy and difficult to work it is a superb hard wearing and very strong material. You can also buy allthe handles etc. ready made.
Now I’m not sure what that one is made of and I’ve only ever built solid wood trunks but to get this look I’d take a leaf from centuries of boatbuilding and make the frame and protective strips out of oak and the body out of ash.
Oak is durable, strong and dense. Ideal properties for a sturdy frame. It wears well so having the protective bumpers made out of that would work well too. However it’s heavy and not very flexible. The flexibility bit is important as in order to make the trunk light enough to use you would have to use quite thin planks for the body. Thin light oak would tend to break comparatively easily if it was bumped or banged when it was being loaded or unloaded onto trains, boats, planes etc. Ash however is much lighter and more elastic than oak and so you could use a thicker Ash plank for the same weight as Oak, that would be more resilient and less liable to be damaged if it were bumped or banged.
Covering the whole thing with oiled leather was one of the ways of water and dustproofing trunks, though they were often covered in canvas as well. Many of course were only the bare wood from dewalt router table insert plate had no covering at all. I’ve successfully reclaimed “antique” leather from old leather sofas that would have the aged patina needed for a project like this. Furniture leather would be the ideal weight for covering a trunk.
You can buy harness leather by the strip or by the whole side (half a skin) and although it is thick and heavy and difficult to work it is a superb hard wearing and very strong material. You can also buy allthe handles etc. ready made.
Cardboard box works. Lines about 40-50mm apart. Flat pack when not in use, without taking the strings out. No glossy boxes as they won't loose the moisture at the right rate. Further control can come from a spray gun, and bin bags. Though generally they just work. The lack of air exchange is a key part to getting a stinking product. As is always filling a box at least 80%. You want it to hum in there. 4 hours with them open to loose a lot of moisture, then burp a couple of days before leaving.
With the fans, a humidistat is ideal. I dry in a tent that way. With my green in mesh trays. 'mushroom trays'
That trunk is nice for a personal item. It has character. You want to use it. Rather than have to use it.
I like
With the fans, a humidistat is ideal. I dry in a tent that way. With my green in mesh trays. 'mushroom trays'
That trunk is nice for a personal item. It has character. You want to use it. Rather than have to use it.
I like
