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Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH)

Ca++

Well-known member
Can still get 600w green powers. I presume they are approved everywhere, but it's not getting any better than that.
I keep thinking it's time to stock up. My big guys with £25 pricing have dried up, and now I'm looking at £37 each. What shops have always asked, except for the rip-off one's.
£30 gets a whole damn light now. If you accept a barn shade and the cheapest hungarian lamp.
I'm in the market for an electronic, but always find them noisy, and give them away.

I have pro-ultra shades and magnetic ballasts, that I will never need. So if the good stuff dries up, I can help out in the UK
 

ReprobateMind

Active member
Can still get 600w green powers. I presume they are approved everywhere, but it's not getting any better than that.
I keep thinking it's time to stock up. My big guys with £25 pricing have dried up, and now I'm looking at £37 each. What shops have always asked, except for the rip-off one's.
£30 gets a whole damn light now. If you accept a barn shade and the cheapest hungarian lamp.
I'm in the market for an electronic, but always find them noisy, and give them away.

I have pro-ultra shades and magnetic ballasts, that I will never need. So if the good stuff dries up, I can help out in the UK
Snatch them up before they're gone before you regret it.
 

ReprobateMind

Active member
I'm testing out this light in my tent right now
1732581446911.png

Ambient room temp is hovering around 70 F. The temperature 24" directly below the center of the bulb in the closed tent has been a constant 82(+-0.4) F. So, a constant temp of 12 F warmer than ambient room temp. That's about as low of a temperature as I can get with my inline fan. The fan exhausts back into the room that the tent is in (I have a dehumidifer).

I can't get my light any higher in the tent and I can't get my plant canopy any shorter. I'm not using CO2. I should be able to grow good buds with these temps and the canopy 24" away from the open bulb, correct? I will also install a 7" oscillating fan to circulate the air just above the canopy.
 

ReprobateMind

Active member
I'm testing out this light in my tent right now
View attachment 19106162
Ambient room temp is hovering around 70 F. The temperature 24" directly below the center of the bulb in the closed tent has been a constant 82(+-0.4) F. So, a constant temp of 12 F warmer than ambient room temp. That's about as low of a temperature as I can get with my inline fan. The fan exhausts back into the room that the tent is in (I have a dehumidifer).

I can't get my light any higher in the tent and I can't get my plant canopy any shorter. I'm not using CO2. I should be able to grow good buds with these temps and the canopy 24" away from the open bulb, correct? I will also install a 7" oscillating fan to circulate the air just above the canopy.
I put some plants into my tent this morning with this set up and just checked them now. They went from T5 HO to under the CMH. Everything that was closer than 30" to the light got completely cooked. At least now I know how far away my plants need to be. Maybe I should have hardened them off before putting giving them a full day worth of CMH light.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I put some plants into my tent this morning with this set up and just checked them now. They went from T5 HO to under the CMH. Everything that was closer than 30" to the light got completely cooked. At least now I know how far away my plants need to be. Maybe I should have hardened them off before putting giving them a full day worth of CMH light.
Had they been close together, in a higher RH and perhaps lower air movement environment, under the flo's

Often rapid collapse when moving them can be avoided, with lots of RH. Even if the two spaces had the same RH, the plants may not think so. Things like spacing effect air flow, so leaf surfaces can see a different water loss, even though the spaces vpd looks the same. The extra light would also speed losses, and the stomata are not that fast to react.

30" from a light, would have to be a bloody big light to fry plants. Only you know how hot it was, but I suspect it was a transplant issue.
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
i moved my plants, that have been vegging for about 30days under a mars ts3000 , i think about 100w of led, to my tent with '2' 315's - but for 3 days the cmh's were about 3feet over the plants, and now i am slowly lowering them... under the mars, the temps were constant ...about 77F, in the tent during lites-on its about 75-80F, but lites off, the temp drops to 60/62F... so far they seem to be ok...
 

Ca++

Well-known member
i moved my plants, that have been vegging for about 30days under a mars ts3000 , i think about 100w of led, to my tent with '2' 315's - but for 3 days the cmh's were about 3feet over the plants, and now i am slowly lowering them... under the mars, the temps were constant ...about 77F, in the tent during lites-on its about 75-80F, but lites off, the temp drops to 60/62F... so far they seem to be ok...
Sounds good. The RH is usually the issue where thing do just crisp up though. Hardened screwed up leaves, dried through water loss, like desiccation.
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
yep the rh in my tent is around 40-45pct - i mite have to add a small humidifier to add moisture to the air - the humidity is always low in the winter...
 

Ca++

Well-known member
yep the rh in my tent is around 40-45pct - i mite have to add a small humidifier to add moisture to the air - the humidity is always low in the winter...
Depending on the airflow, increasing that can be a problem. If stuck with the local hardware stores, you might find this works for you, if you need to maintain fan speed for smell reasons 20241003_191836.jpg
I'm about to have a play with pond foggers, that float. It's like a tenner, to have a big res, but a fogger of lower capacity. Often the big res units presume you want big fog, so last a day or two still. Then you are carrying the thing back and forth, wetting everywhere.
I also have my eye on a 3L unit, with humidistat. It's about £25 from ali. F'kinscoter brand. This might back up a local shop unit, so when the hardware store craps out, the stat version will pick up the stack. Like a relay race. However, I'm looking at it for drying really. Though it might be useless, if the stat lets things walk 5% either way before switching. EG a 10% dead zone. Placing it back on a separate controller. Such controllers from inkbird are about £25 and can control a whole tent full of typical £25 hardware shop units. Which is better than a built in stat really, as having them built in increases their price that same £25, but makes the thing no more reliable. So a year down the line, you don't get to keep your separate stat and chuck the hummer. You have to chuck a combined unit away. One that was only ever one hummer with stat, not a stat running lots of hummers. Which is again better, as thats longer run times, and built in redundancy.

It's a lot to think about, but an inkbird might always be useful, and keeps your hummer expendature to a minimum. While suffering no runaway rh issues.
I'm doing that now, but have bigger units doing 80% of the work, and the stat driven hummer, just finishing off. It's not even a big space, as you can see. Yet I have loosely sealed the plants off. Just to get it working. It's really worth getting from 45% to 60% though in veg. Maybe higher. It can get proper rain forest, and grow like crazy.
 

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