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you're welcome man, i'm glad to help.
as for my cab, it measures 18 inch's deep by 32 inch's
wide by 60 inch's tall, some of which is taken up by the
lights and scrubber and such, lol.
here's a couple pics to illustrate.
peace, SOG
(wifi acting up, will add pics later)
as for my cab, it measures 18 inch's deep by 32 inch's
wide by 60 inch's tall, some of which is taken up by the
lights and scrubber and such, lol.
here's a couple pics to illustrate.
peace, SOG
(wifi acting up, will add pics later)
O
onehitjake
Very nice Azeotrope!
It appears the mixing of 3k and 4k is working well for you.
Things look tight and compact.....and filled out.
It appears the mixing of 3k and 4k is working well for you.
Things look tight and compact.....and filled out.
hey Strapped, here are those pics of my cab i promised.
oh yeah, ...i had my new 400watt Retro White bulb
delivered yesterday and my ballast kit is scheduled
for delivery on Friday, woot, woot.
i even ordered myself a new Super Sun reflector that
i'll be picking up on the first so i'll have a complete
new setup. . . can't wait!
peace, SOG
K
Kelly.
...
rooting clones doesn't require much light at all so
if it's just one cloner you could get away with just
a couple CFL's. you certainly don't need 150watts
of HPS, that would be overkill IMO.
here's a couple pics of my clone box where i'm using
PLL's, which are like a 4ft T5 but folded in half, these
are 23inchs long and 55watts per bulb, 1 up top and
3 down below for vegging rooted clones.
what they actually are is remote ballasted CFL's just
in a long straight bulb rather than all twisted up.
hope this helps, SOG
if it's just one cloner you could get away with just
a couple CFL's. you certainly don't need 150watts
of HPS, that would be overkill IMO.
here's a couple pics of my clone box where i'm using
PLL's, which are like a 4ft T5 but folded in half, these
are 23inchs long and 55watts per bulb, 1 up top and
3 down below for vegging rooted clones.
what they actually are is remote ballasted CFL's just
in a long straight bulb rather than all twisted up.
hope this helps, SOG
Kelly, you can't use that ballast with a 150CMH. That bulb requires a pulse start metal halide ballast.
I also agree that the HID 150 would be a bit much just to veg and root clones with. I prefer using very blue flouros (6500k) for that sort of work. You could get by with a single CFL to root clones and veg, and not have near the heat to deal with.
If you have T5's now, you have the best thing you could for clones and vegging, IMO.
I also agree that the HID 150 would be a bit much just to veg and root clones with. I prefer using very blue flouros (6500k) for that sort of work. You could get by with a single CFL to root clones and veg, and not have near the heat to deal with.
If you have T5's now, you have the best thing you could for clones and vegging, IMO.
K
Kelly.
...
You can run the Philips CMH in wattages of 250 and 400 in comparable magnetic HPS ballasts. It is just the 150 that needs ps metal halide.
Just a suggestion...you could easily build a 2'x2'x3' box out of plywood, paint the inside white, hinge on a door, add some air movers, and you could easily pull an ounce of bud every three months or so doing a screen and using that 150HPS that you have. 150 lamps can be had for $5.25 ea at econolight.com
Usually cheap 150 ballasts will only have core and ignitor, and will not have a capacitor. You can find capacitors online for about $10 and adding one will help with the electric costs lots. Those cheapo ballasts eat up lots of energy without a capacitor.
Just a suggestion...you could easily build a 2'x2'x3' box out of plywood, paint the inside white, hinge on a door, add some air movers, and you could easily pull an ounce of bud every three months or so doing a screen and using that 150HPS that you have. 150 lamps can be had for $5.25 ea at econolight.com
Usually cheap 150 ballasts will only have core and ignitor, and will not have a capacitor. You can find capacitors online for about $10 and adding one will help with the electric costs lots. Those cheapo ballasts eat up lots of energy without a capacitor.
high man, you have a link to those capacitors?
i've been running a couple converted Vapor Tights for
almost a year now and even though i'm retiring them
from my bloom cab in favor of a 400CMH, i'd like to
use them in a mini-scrog maybe.
anyway, thanks for all the work you've shared here, i've
learned a fair bit reading your posts.
peace, SOG
Philips Ceramic Metal Halide HPS-Retro White and a magnetic core and core ballast. Pulse Start MH ballasts for wattages of 150 or less and HPS ballasts for 250 and 400. I strongly suggest a UL listed ballast.
You can try sourcing them at an electrical supply store (brick and mortar or internet). Online, ATL carries the bulbs and earlier in this thread someone posted a link to another place, but, don't remember where.
Heres a 150w CMH out of a PSMH on day 7 of flower.
These had finished up under CMH only for 10 days or so. i just like the way it makes the buds look
I'm seeing less stretch than normal which isnt very good for my application right now. things are much bushier and leafier though
These had finished up under CMH only for 10 days or so. i just like the way it makes the buds look
I'm seeing less stretch than normal which isnt very good for my application right now. things are much bushier and leafier though
CMH info
CMH info
Just wondered if the 600watt cmh is on the market place yet? Anybody got any info?
If you're planning to use cmh you might find the following link useful. Specs of several different cmh's by various manufacturers. Get to the page and click on a pic for technical info. Several of the data sheets contain spd's - although as usual they give the realtive spectral power on the vertical axis rather then an absolute value.
Check it out:
http://www.lamptech.co.uk/MBI Ceramic.htm
CMH info
Just wondered if the 600watt cmh is on the market place yet? Anybody got any info?
If you're planning to use cmh you might find the following link useful. Specs of several different cmh's by various manufacturers. Get to the page and click on a pic for technical info. Several of the data sheets contain spd's - although as usual they give the realtive spectral power on the vertical axis rather then an absolute value.
Check it out:
http://www.lamptech.co.uk/MBI Ceramic.htm
