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Can't figure out the problem

drewbie

Member
It looks like an N def. But the red petioles and the leaf edges curling downward are puzzling me. Wood ash has been added and can't see any noticeable effects yet.

The top of the plant, the budding part, is dark green, like the color it should be. But all the other leaves are pale green and looking like they are yellowing.

Puzzling still is that the leaf tips are looking like nute burn but only small amount of fertilizer has been added

Im guessing its a nute lockout due to some Ph trouble?

IMG_1105.JPG


If anyone has any help or wants to know some more info about the plant just post.
 

drewbie

Member
I'll resize later.

Plant is in the bathroom....so it gets a nice steam bath everyday. I think this helps the aura of the plant and makes them "more kind" after harvest.

I dont have any complex nutrients just some miracle grow 20-12-18 or whatever the regular numbers are for it.
I know the MG has a high Urea ammonia content and I'm not so sure there are enough bodies in the soil to break it down.

I usually give the plant .25-.5 litres every 3 days and fertilize once a week or so.

Also the HPS is only 70 watts. Had to stay on a budget.
The soil is MG organic choice, the water is tap water that sits for about a day to let the chlorine evaporate.
 

dyren

Member
Isn't MG soil pretty damn hot to begin with? I think you're on to something with the lockout scenario. Your symptoms look like nute burn + N deficiency from lockout + high humidity. What is the RH of the room?
 

drewbie

Member
Im guessing you mean relative humidity.


In the morning when I shower I'd say 100%. But after the steam dies down and the day caries on, the humidity relatively low, with the fan blowing 24/7. Prolly no more than 50% humidity.


What is this about the Mg? I didn't know the soil could have a Mg problem.

if it helps, I used the same soil and conditions for another plant at one time. However, I used Brita filtered tap water and the leaves were turning yellow and brittle and dying, looking like a phos. def. The stems and trunk of the plant were purple/red color.

I want this to get solved soon cuz I don't want another plant that doesnt grow to maximum capacity.
 

Blackvelvet

Member
drewbie said:
I dont have any complex nutrients just some miracle grow 20-12-18 or whatever the regular numbers are for it.
I know the MG has a high Urea ammonia content and I'm not so sure there are enough bodies in the soil to break it down.
That's good your aware of the high urea/ammonia content of your fert. As far as I know, your plant food is 100% ammonia/urea. You never want more than 40% in potting soil with the other 60% being nitrate nitrogen. You can experience ammonia toxicity. :frown: Its not that the ammonia/urea needs to break down for the plant to use it but rather be converted to nitrate nitrogen. Not very much of this occurs in potting soil.

Be aware that your fert lacks calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. It may be beneficial to add these to the fert water. Calcium will help with ammonia toxicity since ammonia disrupts calcium function in the plant and you will think...calcium deficiency. 1/4 teaspoon powdered (not granular or pelletized) gypsum and epsom salts per gallon of water along with the regular "food" can provide your cal mag sulfur. With dolomite lime in your soil mix, adds this boost every third fert or so and without lime, add the boost everytime. Calcium chloride can be used instead of gypsum. It may be under the name tomatoe blossom end stopper or something. To give a rate,
requires net weight on the bottle along with % calcium. Calcium nitrate used by tomatoe growers also could be used. 1/4 teaspoon per gal. It does add nitrogen which might not be desirable in flower.

Ph is very important. GEt some ph test strips from the aquarium section of the petstore or a brew your own beer/wine store. A digital ph tester that measures liquids would be more accurate and less of a hastle.

How to measure ph: Water/fert your soil mix well till runoff occurs. WAit 30 minutes. Apply a few ounces of distilled water to the pot till about 1 ounce of runoff occurs. Catch this on a saucer. Measure ph. Around ph 6 works for both soil and soilless grows.

Apply fert water everytime you water. This should pour out from the bottom of the pot. You want alot of runoff. 20% of your fert water applied should runoff.

After you have mixed up your fert water, adjust ph to about 6 using an acid or base. This prevents ph surprises.

If you look around homedepot or lowes, you might be able to find a high nitrate and low urea/ammonia fert. Somebody mentioned finding one with the numbers 20-10-20. This should contain all 6 micros. Cal mag sulfur still might need to be added. Check the label ingredients.

.
 
Last edited:

KABBAGE

Member
I can only assume you are in veg given the "steam bath" you give your plants everyday, as well as the 20-12-18 MG food you are feeding (more suited for veg than flower) Flower food should have an npk ratio of around 1-3-2.
If you are in flower, a steam bath "everyday"? this will almost certainly lead to mold.
Mg can be addressed sort of my buyin some Molasses (cheap too!), Black Strap preferably. This will also provide flowering plants with much needed carbohydrates and sugars. 1tbsp/gal, bit weaker if you like.
MG anything is some strong stuff man. Using pre-amended soil is a big no no. Never can tell what kind of reaction your plants will have down the road.

Blackvelvet said:
Apply fert water everytime you water. This should pour out from the bottom of the pot. You want alot of runoff. 20% of your fert water applied should runoff.
Am I reading this right? You are suggesting adding nutrients everytime water is administered? This will lead to overfert in no time, especially with MG - imho
 

drewbie

Member
KABBAGE said:
I can only assume you are in veg given the "steam bath" you give your plants everyday, as well as the 20-12-18 MG food you are feeding (more suited for veg than flower) Flower food should have an npk ratio of around 1-3-2.
If you are in flower, a steam bath "everyday"? this will almost certainly lead to mold.
Mg can be addressed sort of my buyin some Molasses (cheap too!), Black Strap preferably. This will also provide flowering plants with much needed carbohydrates and sugars. 1tbsp/gal, bit weaker if you like.
MG anything is some strong stuff man. Using pre-amended soil is a big no no. Never can tell what kind of reaction your plants will have down the road.


Am I reading this right? You are suggesting adding nutrients everytime water is administered? This will lead to overfert in no time, especially with MG - imho

nah Im pretty sure theyd only get mold if they were drying out on a clothes line, pot is naturally pest and mold resistand
 

Nikijad4210

Member
Veteran
KABBAGE said:
Am I reading this right? You are suggesting adding nutrients everytime water is administered? This will lead to overfert in no time, especially with MG - imho
Everyone needs to remember to just ignore BlackVelvet aka Sproutco aka Hotgurl---He never posts anything useful. Most of his advice tends to kill plants rather than help.


Dude, you still haven't mentioned what your PH is. Knowing that will help a lot in trying to figure out how to help you. It is actually pretty crucial for a grower to know & monitor.
 

KABBAGE

Member
drewbie said:
nah Im pretty sure theyd only get mold if they were drying out on a clothes line, pot is naturally pest and mold resistand
Some strains def. have some resistance to mold and pests, but none are immune .Mold on a clothes line??
Nikijad4210 said:
Everyone needs to remember to just ignore BlackVelvet aka Sproutco aka Hotgurl---He never posts anything useful. Most of his advice tends to kill plants rather than help.
Gotcha...
 

drewbie

Member
KABBAGE said:
Some strains def. have some resistance to mold and pests, but none are immune .Mold on a clothes line??

Gotcha...


oh i was absolutely baked when i wrote the clothes line thing.


anyway, im going to try and find some test strips today.

The miracle grow im using is actually 24-8-16 with 3.5% ammoniacal and 20.5% urea nitrogen.

I have another fertilizer for Orchids, but the plants don't seem to like it. Its called Schultz Orchid food and it has a rating of 19-31-17 with 4.4% ammoniacal, 1.2% nitrate, and 13.4% urea.
 
G

Guest

The (n) level in that orchid food is way to high for a flowering cannabis plant. Well same goes for the miracle grow food your using. I would use something with very low(n) at this point in the plants life. You will also get a very hay type of smell and taste with that high a (n) content this far into flower.
 

Blackvelvet

Member
Nikijad4210 said:
Everyone needs to remember to just ignore BlackVelvet l---He never posts anything useful. Most of his advice tends to kill plants rather than help.
That's funny. You really are clueles to how to grow plants. Didn't you say this?
Nikijad4210 said:
Just been needing to know how often to feed potted herbs.
Now how can you judge me?

By the way Niki, the epsom salts with the sulfur is special. They don't put it out with the regular items. Its behing the counter. :listen2: Tell them you want super xx epsom. :YaRight:

Back to the original poster...

Both those ferts stink because they contain mostly urea or ammonia.

Fertilizing with every watering is called constant liquid feed or clf. You use a weak amount of ferts. Quite a bit of runoff should occur with every feeding. This ensures not alot of salt buildup and little burn.

.
 

Nikijad4210

Member
Veteran
Blackvelvet said:
That's funny. You really are clueles to how to grow plants. Didn't you say this?
Now how can you judge me?
Because they're fucking culinary herbs, not cannabis, you retard---Not everyone grows them. You really think that's worthy of being called ammo?

How's your crack addicted, chicken leg eating, pepsi guzzling homeless girlfriend, by the way? Still sponging your money?
 

drewbie

Member
HazeToker said:
The (n) level in that orchid food is way to high for a flowering cannabis plant. Well same goes for the miracle grow food your using. I would use something with very low(n) at this point in the plants life. You will also get a very hay type of smell and taste with that high a (n) content this far into flower.


oh shit now I know what my bud from the previous plant smells like. its been a long time since ive been to the farm. It doesn't taste like hay though.




what about using bone and blood meal?
 

Brian1975

Member
Up to two weeks in and that 19-31-17 isn't bad. Switching to 5-30-5 after that, with Bloom Plus, works well. Need to check that PH though. Damn important aspect of the grow. Get some PH strips.
 

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