can someone help me with my brakes????

[Guest]

order only matters when you're replacing brake fluid of your entire system as far as i know.

when you've just replaced pads, you know that the air is close to each of the calipers-

as in, isolated closely to each individual caliper (and not, say, in the middle of the system)

so when you bleed after replacing brakes (if you've loosened bleed screws in the process) order shouldnt matter

 

[Stoney Bologna]

I'd like to add that I've changed pads on cars that you don't need to bleed the lines for and I've change pads on cars that you do need to bleed the lines for. So this topic is very subjective. I think there is a posibility that you wont need to bleed the lines. But if you do, the folks here have good advice.

Hey Sgt. stedanko, Haynes manuals definitely omit crucial steps. The only manuals that have everything are the service manuals that repair shops use. These manuals are very expensive so that's why you don't see them in the parts store. I think you can order them from the actual car manufactures.

Peace

 

[Danknuggler]

Like mentioned, if you just changed your brake pads, then your brake lines don't need bled.
They would only need bled if:
A. You stonered up and when you had pressure on the caliper piston, while changing the brake pads, and opened the brake fluid reservoir cap and allowed brake fluid to flow out, then released the caliper piston and let air suck in through the reservoir into the master cyclinder. Ooops, you sucked some air in and need to bleed it out.

B. When changing your brake pads, you seen the bleed valve and said, "what's this?" and loosened it, letting it bled out and releasing pressure when you pressed in and released the brake caliper piston, sucking in air. Ooops

C. the brakes had air in them and were spongy or simply not feeling right to you, so you changed the pads hoping to solve this. You did good and have changed out your brake pads, but still haven't solved the initial problem of why the brakes didn't feel right in the first place. They'll need bled.

This is what most of them look like:

and a how to: http://www.4x4xplor.com/brake-bleed.html (They used a jeep explorer, but iut's the same on all vehicles.)

I do it the same way Gelatinous mentioned. I fill up the reservior with brake fluid. Go to the furthest brake caliper (engine running in PARK due to havng power brakes - just makes it easier) and tell the other person to press (they press down slow and even and then hold it) - the same time they are pressing you open the bleed and let fluid run out. They yell, ok, when they've pressed all the way and are holding the brake pedal down and then you tighten it back up. When you have the bleed valve tightened back up, yell to them, "release" and then release the brake pedal. Do it again, three times, move to the next brake caliper and do it again three times. Always wise to check the brake fluid's reservior between calipers so you don't run out and acidently suck air in. You also don't want them to release the brake pedal while you have the bleed valve loosened - as it will suck air in.

It's easy.

Of course, this doesn't touch on WHY you had air in the liines in the first place. This goes into the territory of a bad master cyclinder or leaking reservior, leaking brake lines (usually not seated at the ends properly), stripped bleed valve and not sealed, leaking brake pistons on the calipers, or simply the last person whom messed up on one of the above reasons and got air in or you did by allowing the brake reservior to go empty - pointing to one of the above initial problems of why you're losing brake fluid in the first place.

yes i accidentally opened the bleed valve when i was removing the calipers so i had some air get in there. thanx everybody for thr help. And to that guy who basically flamed me i won't give you bad K but dude you should seriously think before you type because this is what the Tokers Den is for.Any subject can be discussed here and I was toking while workin anyways so there I'm not a member of any forums that are not cannabis relayted so these are the only people i talk to anyways one love all peace !!nuggler

 

[Guest]

I'd like to add, that the newer type of cars breaks that are computer controled need to be bleed correctly.. Some with sensors must be disconnected first before bleeding. Others need to have things done in certain order. But a basic flush of air out of your lines is easy with two people.
Step 1.) locate power break booster under the hood.
Step 2.) find the furthest break from the power break booster.
step 3.) have the person in the car pump the break pedal about 3 times and hold it down.
step 4.) open the bleed nut on the break caliper
step 5.) when the break fluid flow lessens (and the break pedal is to the floor) tighten the bleeder nut.
step 6.) tell the person in the car to pump the breaks 3-4 more times. to build more pressure in the lines.
now repeat steps 3-6 with the furthest break caliper until you dont hear or see any spirts or bubbles. It is also a good idea to tap the breaklines between steps 3-6 at the bends of the lines.. After your dont with the furthest break, go the the next closest one and repeat the above steps..Also keep a good eye on the reservior for your break fluids.. Sucks to start all over if you suck in air at the fill point (done it, hahah). Also if you get break fluid on painted surfaces it is a good idea to rinse them off with soap and water.. It breaks down the paint bad.. I was a Certified auto mechanic like a decade ago, and thats how we did it Hope this helps.. Breaks are nothing to mess with.. just do it slow and correct.. sucks for them not to work when you need them lol.. Be sefe, take care..

Cannabismavin,