Danknuggler
Active member
I know WTF right? well i just changed the pads on my car and would like some help from someone who KNOWS car repair or mechanics can tell me how to BLEED my brakes?thanx nuggler
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can someone help me with my brakes????
- Thread starter Danknuggler
- Start date
youd probably get a faster response...hmmm...where???@ a fucking car forum possibly?? hmm yea
TrustNoOne
Member
nycdfan042 said:
wow. now that's a friendly response.
G
Guest
you need two people. one person in the drivers seat.
the other person will sit at each brake caliper and losen the bleed nut. the person in the drivers seat will then press down the pedal and before they let it go back up the bleed nut is tightened.
you really only have to do this if you suspect there is air in your brakes. if all you did was put new pads in, you don't necessarily have to bleed your brakes. unless, of course, you loosened the bleed nuts in the process of putting new pads in. if you did that, you should bleed the brakes.
usually if you get air in your brakes you can *really* notice it.
depress the pedal on each caliper maybe 3 times to ensure no air is in there if you're gonna do this. make sure you do not go below the "minimum" line in your brake fluid reservoir under the hood while doing this, because each time the pedal goes down with the bleeder nut loosened, fluid will come out of the bleeder nut (it's supposed to, and you'll see any air bubbles come along when they sputter out)
the other person will sit at each brake caliper and losen the bleed nut. the person in the drivers seat will then press down the pedal and before they let it go back up the bleed nut is tightened.
you really only have to do this if you suspect there is air in your brakes. if all you did was put new pads in, you don't necessarily have to bleed your brakes. unless, of course, you loosened the bleed nuts in the process of putting new pads in. if you did that, you should bleed the brakes.
usually if you get air in your brakes you can *really* notice it.
depress the pedal on each caliper maybe 3 times to ensure no air is in there if you're gonna do this. make sure you do not go below the "minimum" line in your brake fluid reservoir under the hood while doing this, because each time the pedal goes down with the bleeder nut loosened, fluid will come out of the bleeder nut (it's supposed to, and you'll see any air bubbles come along when they sputter out)
his question has now been answered, and he didn't need to register on another forum. voila.nycdfan042 said:
Last edited:
fr33th3w33d
Member
good explanation. i still wouldnt want to try it on my car, id rather not end up in one of those movie style "brakes cut" scenes. nowhere in jersey will i get out unscathed.
bluebublelove
Active member
I have a bridge in my town with a toll booth right at the other end and a few years back neglected to take care of my brakes and they did indeed cut out in movie style fashion and I had to use my e-brake to stop, very scary in a 2 ton suv...
Danknuggler
Active member
thank you!!!
if you have air in your lines then the brake pedal will feel mushy and not firm.
I have never replaced my pads or disks, I do most of my own mechanical repairs, mostly engine related stuff. I haven't worked on suspension, brakes or steering before so I know more about engine repairs and I'm no mechanic.
brakes are suppose to be the easiest repair on a car but like you said I'm not a professional mechanic and don't want to screw something up and end up losing the brakes on the freeway
so what exactly is wrong with your brakes?
was this problem there before?
could be your master cylinder, air in lines (if it feels mushy), could be the brake pads.
I have never replaced my pads or disks, I do most of my own mechanical repairs, mostly engine related stuff. I haven't worked on suspension, brakes or steering before so I know more about engine repairs and I'm no mechanic.
brakes are suppose to be the easiest repair on a car but like you said I'm not a professional mechanic and don't want to screw something up and end up losing the brakes on the freeway
so what exactly is wrong with your brakes?
was this problem there before?
could be your master cylinder, air in lines (if it feels mushy), could be the brake pads.
G
Guest
bentley books are a must if you wanna do serious repairs on your car, it helps a lot
It fucking sucks Bentley only makes European books for my car...it'd be useful if my steering wheel was on the right hand fucking side. Fucking Barnes and Nobles...who the hell aside from someone stupid enough to not read the smaller font(IE me) could possibly want to buy this book in the states.
G
Guest
I've found critical steps missing in the haynes for my vehicle, on regarding half shaft replacement and the other regarding water pump replacement.
Just curious if anyone else has run into this? I do a brief overview now but following those steps? Good luck when steps 5 6 and 7 are missing
Just curious if anyone else has run into this? I do a brief overview now but following those steps? Good luck when steps 5 6 and 7 are missing
Blackvelvet
Member
If you just changed out the pads, the brakes don't need to be bled.
Ding! Fries are done.Blackvelvet said:If you just changed out the pads, the brakes don't need to be bled.
Of course, when was the last time you changed out your brake fluid?
(it's one of the most commonly overlooked general maintenance things you should do.)
G
Guest
Like mentioned, if you just changed your brake pads, then your brake lines don't need bled.
They would only need bled if:
A. You stonered up and when you had pressure on the caliper piston, while changing the brake pads, and opened the brake fluid reservoir cap and allowed brake fluid to flow out, then released the caliper piston and let air suck in through the reservoir into the master cyclinder. Ooops, you sucked some air in and need to bleed it out.
B. When changing your brake pads, you seen the bleed valve and said, "what's this?" and loosened it, letting it bled out and releasing pressure when you pressed in and released the brake caliper piston, sucking in air. Ooops
C. the brakes had air in them and were spongy or simply not feeling right to you, so you changed the pads hoping to solve this. You did good and have changed out your brake pads, but still haven't solved the initial problem of why the brakes didn't feel right in the first place. They'll need bled.
This is what most of them look like:
and a how to: http://www.4x4xplor.com/brake-bleed.html (They used a jeep explorer, but iut's the same on all vehicles.)
I do it the same way Gelatinous mentioned. I fill up the reservior with brake fluid. Go to the furthest brake caliper (engine running in PARK due to havng power brakes - just makes it easier) and tell the other person to press (they press down slow and even and then hold it) - the same time they are pressing you open the bleed and let fluid run out. They yell, ok, when they've pressed all the way and are holding the brake pedal down and then you tighten it back up. When you have the bleed valve tightened back up, yell to them, "release" and then release the brake pedal. Do it again, three times, move to the next brake caliper and do it again three times. Always wise to check the brake fluid's reservior between calipers so you don't run out and acidently suck air in. You also don't want them to release the brake pedal while you have the bleed valve loosened - as it will suck air in.
It's easy.
Of course, this doesn't touch on WHY you had air in the liines in the first place. This goes into the territory of a bad master cyclinder or leaking reservior, leaking brake lines (usually not seated at the ends properly), stripped bleed valve and not sealed, leaking brake pistons on the calipers, or simply the last person whom messed up on one of the above reasons and got air in or you did by allowing the brake reservior to go empty - pointing to one of the above initial problems of why you're losing brake fluid in the first place.
They would only need bled if:
A. You stonered up and when you had pressure on the caliper piston, while changing the brake pads, and opened the brake fluid reservoir cap and allowed brake fluid to flow out, then released the caliper piston and let air suck in through the reservoir into the master cyclinder. Ooops, you sucked some air in and need to bleed it out.
B. When changing your brake pads, you seen the bleed valve and said, "what's this?" and loosened it, letting it bled out and releasing pressure when you pressed in and released the brake caliper piston, sucking in air. Ooops
C. the brakes had air in them and were spongy or simply not feeling right to you, so you changed the pads hoping to solve this. You did good and have changed out your brake pads, but still haven't solved the initial problem of why the brakes didn't feel right in the first place. They'll need bled.
This is what most of them look like:
and a how to: http://www.4x4xplor.com/brake-bleed.html (They used a jeep explorer, but iut's the same on all vehicles.)
I do it the same way Gelatinous mentioned. I fill up the reservior with brake fluid. Go to the furthest brake caliper (engine running in PARK due to havng power brakes - just makes it easier) and tell the other person to press (they press down slow and even and then hold it) - the same time they are pressing you open the bleed and let fluid run out. They yell, ok, when they've pressed all the way and are holding the brake pedal down and then you tighten it back up. When you have the bleed valve tightened back up, yell to them, "release" and then release the brake pedal. Do it again, three times, move to the next brake caliper and do it again three times. Always wise to check the brake fluid's reservior between calipers so you don't run out and acidently suck air in. You also don't want them to release the brake pedal while you have the bleed valve loosened - as it will suck air in.
It's easy.
Of course, this doesn't touch on WHY you had air in the liines in the first place. This goes into the territory of a bad master cyclinder or leaking reservior, leaking brake lines (usually not seated at the ends properly), stripped bleed valve and not sealed, leaking brake pistons on the calipers, or simply the last person whom messed up on one of the above reasons and got air in or you did by allowing the brake reservior to go empty - pointing to one of the above initial problems of why you're losing brake fluid in the first place.
The Anchorman
Member
I have always been a fan of the Mighty Vac,
http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=PAR_DS-310207&tier2=63
should be able to get it at any parts store or motorcycle shop. They are the best for one person bleeding of brakes, clutches really anything hydraulic.
Hope all goes well!!
http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=PAR_DS-310207&tier2=63
should be able to get it at any parts store or motorcycle shop. They are the best for one person bleeding of brakes, clutches really anything hydraulic.
Hope all goes well!!
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