Can someone diagnose my Flowering Plant leaves?

[healthdude38]

Exactly what does that mean? How much, how often? Total NPK and Micros in your applications?

Info like this would help a lot.

Just a thought to those who like "kewl challenges", this is where soil is a lot more forgiving and easy peasy. A 3 gallon pot of soil with about a TB of Osmocote 15-9-12, 5-6 month scratched into the top inch of backfill and all you have to do is water and let it go until harvest. Excellent results are predictable every time and you get peace of mind not worrying about it.

Uncle Ben

Kiss method means 'Keep It Simple Stupid'

I'm just using the 3 part feeding system from GH. Nothing else apart from a little seaweed that I gave once mid flower( just to finish the bottle I had laying around from my last grow)

About growing in soil, im not the same opinion. I've tried soil and coco. The good thing about DWC is it takes the grower out of the equation.

I can just take care of the plants once per week and then I don't need to worry much.. I can be out of the house ( I have a beach house where I stay alot of times) and don't have to worry about watering and so on..

Also with soil you can fuck up by watering too much or too less, wich if you water too much you can get fungus gnats that will destroy your crop. Insects also like the soil alot more..

Those are some of the reasons I will never go back to soil, plus my yield is alot better and the bud quality is not that much different.. I did an organic grow and the buds tasted nice, the high was about the same, but the yield was much less

 

[healthdude38]

What measure per gallon or liter are you using for your 3 part GH nutes?

Are you experiencing the same ph fluctuations in your res with nuted water as you have been this week using just ph'ed water? also tap, well, rain, or ro?

I'm using the recommended measurement on the nutrient bottle. At the beginning of Flower I used less, but then started upping up the dosage, because supposedly they require more nutrients as the flowering phase advances, but I guess it was still too much, next time I'm keeping it down the whole grow.

When I feed the plants with nutrients the ph stays very stable.
When it's just plain water the PH is all over the place, I corrected it and the next day is out of range again.

I gave the plant a bit of cal/mag 2 day ago and since then the PH did not change. I just took a reading 1 hour ago and it's still the same as 2 days ago

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

When I feed the plants with nutrients the ph stays very stable.
When it's just plain water the PH is all over the place, I corrected it and the next day is out of range again.

I rest my case.

Enjoy your harvest.

 

[FletchF.Fletch]

The bottle recommendations are definitely too strong. The basic ratio is 1 part Micro to 2 parts of the others. Mixing strengths are best determined by measuring the EC of your mixed solution. Some people eliminate the Grow part and just use Micro and Bloom following a mixing rate known as the Lucas Formula. I like the 3 part for flexibility to add more N in Veg. This mixing chart is from Jorge Cervantes' book and has been very helpful in demonstrating how far off the bottle mixing rates really are.

Somewhere between this chart and the bottle recommended rates lies the sweet spot. Always at least as strong as the chart, never as strong as the bottle.

 

[Ca++]

The only time to not put feed in hydro, is washing it between crops.

 

[OG_NoMan]

The bottle recommendations are definitely too strong. The basic ratio is 1 part Micro to 2 parts of the others. Mixing strengths are best determined by measuring the EC of your mixed solution. Some people eliminate the Grow part and just use Micro and Bloom following a mixing rate known as the Lucas Formula. I like the 3 part for flexibility to add more N in Veg. This mixing chart is from Jorge Cervantes' book and has been very helpful in demonstrating how far off the bottle mixing rates really are.


View attachment 18844479

Somewhere between this chart and the bottle recommended rates lies the sweet spot. Always at least as strong as the chart, never as strong as the bottle.

I run 6/9 Lucas and use floralicious plus for some extra nitrogen. It's 2 - 0.8 - 0.5 and really brings the smell and flavor out of the plant IMO

 

[Creeperpark]

The manufacturer is giving the amount of fertilizer for the whole week. If you use it in one mixing it can be too high, but if you split it up into 3 waterings per week it will be much lower. The plants will do better if you split the feeding up and keep it at the same EC and steady. That's the model manufacturers' charts use.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I'm going

I'm going to question the P part of that. My question regards if lower leaves showing these signs have been pulled off. While I do see it on upper one's, I'm not really seeing older leaves below.

Well that would change the diagnosis. If it started in the lower leaves first, it is a mobile nutrient (N, P, K, Mg) deficiency/lockout. And it doesn't look like N (chlorosis, sometimes clawing), K (leaf edges first) or Mg (leaf tip and edges, usually also a dark green/blueish hue, sometimes canoeing of the leaves).

The tip die back isn't quite as pronounced as I would expect from low P, but we do have the dark green.

I'm not quite ready to rule out P. Though I suspect high feed in general is the better idea, and while it's showing as Ca, it's too late to be correcting that now. So perhaps it's not sensible to pursue that, even if 90% sure.

Run-off figures might be a good guide here.

Pics were loading as I typed, that promote the over-feed idea. The last three don't say anything else, but the early one's tell a less clear story.

This is why it could be phosphorus or calcium.

Here is another possibility.

Phosphorus or calcium is just what the plant is using most of right now, and nutrients are generally being locked out.

I think it is possible there might be a mite infestation. So at least the damaged leaves should be removed, and the plants should have a good spray down with water, to knock them back/off. Especially have a lot of 'hang time' of say 5 seconds for the underside of the leaves. A persistent spray mechanically removes most insects over time.

However it could also be simpler - there is a need for an EC meter. The plant could just be crispy - and more sensitive to nutrients than the rest. If you're growing without an EC or PPM meter, you're playing Russian Roulette every time you're feeding your plants. One slip-up can destroy months of work.

 

[Rgd]

think it is possible there might be a mite infestation. So at least the damaged leaves should be removed, and the plants should have a good spray down with water, to knock them back/off. Especially have a lot of 'hang time' of say 5 seconds for the underside of the leaves. A persistent spray mechanically removes most insects over time.

However it could also be simpler - there is a need for an EC meter.

The plant could just be crispy - and more sensitive to nutrients than the rest. If you're growing without an EC or PPM meter, you're playing Russian Roulette every time you're feeding your plants. One slip-up can destroy months of work.

I would guess this too

however

...also seen russet mites create that necrosis too and the lil fkrz are too small for eyes

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

The bottle recommendations are definitely too strong. The basic ratio is 1 part Micro to 2 parts of the others. Mixing strengths are best determined by measuring the EC of your mixed solution. Some people eliminate the Grow part and just use Micro and Bloom following a mixing rate known as the Lucas Formula. I like the 3 part for flexibility to add more N in Veg. This mixing chart is from Jorge Cervantes' book and has been very helpful in demonstrating how far off the bottle mixing rates really are.


View attachment 18844479

Somewhere between this chart and the bottle recommended rates lies the sweet spot. Always at least as strong as the chart, never as strong as the bottle.

Charts, what a guessing game this works out to be. One big cannabis vendor farce with no real rhyme or reason to folks that understand NPK, secondaries and micros. One big racket.

Uncle Ben

 

[Ca++]

The manufacturer is giving the amount of fertilizer for the whole week. If you use it in one mixing it can be too high, but if you split it up into 3 waterings per week it will be much lower. The plants will do better if you split the feeding up and keep it at the same EC and steady. That's the model manufacturers' charts use.

The whole week? That's a mighty strange thing to do. I often fin myself questioning the sanity of soil feeds that talk about every other watering. Weekly quota though... I never saw that coming

 

[NEED 4 SEED]

There's no way around getting an ec meter today.

 

[Creeperpark]

The whole week? That's a mighty strange thing to do. I often fin myself questioning the sanity of soil feeds that talk about every other watering. Weekly quota though... I never saw that coming

That is why it is called a weekly chart.

 

[Rgd]

There's no way around getting an ec meter today.

yep ..and test run off

 

[NEED 4 SEED]

yep ..and test run off

You mean the reservoir...he grows in dwc

 

[Ca++]

That is why it is called a weekly chart.

All the charts I have seen, are like the one just posted by fletch. Where the dosing changes each week, but is based on volumes of water given.
I have never seen a weekly chart, where total ppm is given, regardless of water volume. Though it is a working method. Are you saying that's on the bottle? I'm surprised they would have a guess.

 

[Creeperpark]

All the charts I have seen, are like the one just posted by fletch. Where the dosing changes each week, but is based on volumes of water given.
I have never seen a weekly chart, where total ppm is given, regardless of water volume. Though it is a working method. Are you saying that's on the bottle? I'm surprised they would have a guess.

I'm sorry Ca, I just saw this and almost missed it. I'm not talking about using the tables feed for hydro like Rockwool DWC. I"m talking about soil-less mixes like Fox Farms, Pro-mixes, and Sunshine. The weekly table charts are high in ppm and splitting them up into 3 waterings is perfect for maintaining a steady EC for one week.

 

[healthdude38]

Well that would change the diagnosis. If it started in the lower leaves first, it is a mobile nutrient (N, P, K, Mg) deficiency/lockout. And it doesn't look like N (chlorosis, sometimes clawing), K (leaf edges first) or Mg (leaf tip and edges, usually also a dark green/blueish hue, sometimes canoeing of the leaves).


This is why it could be phosphorus or calcium.

Here is another possibility.

Phosphorus or calcium is just what the plant is using most of right now, and nutrients are generally being locked out.

I think it is possible there might be a mite infestation. So at least the damaged leaves should be removed, and the plants should have a good spray down with water, to knock them back/off. Especially have a lot of 'hang time' of say 5 seconds for the underside of the leaves. A persistent spray mechanically removes most insects over time.

However it could also be simpler - there is a need for an EC meter. The plant could just be crispy - and more sensitive to nutrients than the rest. If you're growing without an EC or PPM meter, you're playing Russian Roulette every time you're feeding your plants. One slip-up can destroy months of work.

The symptoms started on the top leaves ( Light burn I guess) ppfd was at 1700 and above..

Lower leaves are doing alright.

I got an EC meter yesterday, and after flushing the plants for almost 2 weeks (saw no fade or yellowing of the leaves), I fed them at half the strenght.

EC is sitting at 1 now.

Also I have been checking for insects and can't find anything, and it's only one plant having these symptoms, if it was an infestation I think it would already be on other plants also.

The other plants keep developing too, they are swelling, pistills turning orange.. only the damaged one seems to be stunted and is changing slow

Below are some pictures, how long do you guys think I have left? 2 weeks maybe? These plants should be 8 week finishers, the 8th week will be over tomorrow

The damaged plant:

The other plants:

 

[Dr.Dutch]

I'm using tap water, I live in Spain so I don't know what quality of water you guys have but our tap water is safe to drink so it's also safe for the plants..

What are the values, what exactly does your water contain? Just because it's drinking water quality doesn't mean you can just use it like that

Hum I understand. But still the plants are still not showing a sign of flushing.. usually the leaves should be turning yellow but I don't see a change in the leaves, and they are flushing for 2 weeks now.. tomorrow I will add nutrients at half the strenght

You are working with a DWC. The question has already been asked here: What are you flushing? You can do that if you have a substrate-based system and there are too many nutrients in the substrate.
You're not flushing, you've been giving your plants absolutely no nutrients for two weeks.

I can just take care of the plants once per week and then I don't need to worry much.. I can be out of the house ( I have a beach house where I stay alot of times) and don't have to worry about watering and so on..

A system where the pH has to be checked every day and corrected if necessary is probably not very suitable. KISS and Hydro do not fit together.

Many problems that explain the plant status. It's not due to a calcium deficiency or anything, you need to learn how to work properly with hydro first.
Daily EC check is also part of it.

 

[Ca++]

One bad plant often means bad roots.

If you were on water from week 5.5 to 7.5 of an 8 week plant, then chop them out and start again. These are the peak weight gain weeks, an without food, you missed them. They can't catch up now, the clock is ticking. Peak days have passed. Now they are just finishing. You could develop what is there until week 10. So little to develop though. Some new plants would be a better use of your time.