Can someone diagnose my Flowering Plant leaves?

[healthdude38]

Hey there fellow growers,

Im doing a DWC grow, im on week 7 of flowering and the plants are showing some symptoms that i dont know what it is..

Symptoms started about 2 weeks ago, at first i thought it was nute burn (which i still think it also was that), so i gave it only Ph'd water to flush the plant for this last week, the 2 times i went to check on the ph during this week the ph had become higher and out of range which i think made everything worse and now they look effed up. Somebody any ideas on what i should do?

Ps: the symptoms are starting in the higher leaves and going down the plant, the bottom leaves are not as damaged as the top ones..

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Hey there fellow growers,

Im doing a DWC grow, im on week 7 of flowering and the plants are showing some symptoms that i dont know what it is..

Symptoms started about 2 weeks ago, at first i thought it was nute burn (which i still think it also was that), so i gave it only Ph'd water to flush the plant for this last week, the 2 times i went to check on the ph during this week the ph had become higher and out of range which i think made everything worse and now they look effed up. Somebody any ideas on what i should do?

Ps: the symptoms are starting in the higher leaves and going down the plant, the bottom leaves are not as damaged as the top ones.. View attachment 18843172 View attachment 18843173 View attachment 18843174 View attachment 18843175 View attachment 18843176

Hi,

At first glance, it looks like a calcium issue.

That's mainly because the shotgun pattern of the damage; the fact that it is on the higher leaves and not lower (which would have made it a Phosphorus issue); the fact that it's in flower.

There even is a product called Calcium Kick that is recommended for early flowering.

However... without knowing the pH, the EC or PPM (with scale, 500 or 700 for instance), the nutrients used and the growing style (hydro, coco, soil, organics), I can't say if it is a calcium deficiency or a lockout.

 

[revegeta666]

I agree the rusty spots are a symptom of Calcium deficiency (very advanced). And judging by the general colour of the plant and burned tips, it is most probably caused by a lockout from overfeeding.

You say you are on week 7, so depending on the genetics, if it's a short flowering strain I would give plain water with low amounts of Ca. Always with the correct pH.

@TanzanianMagic DWC is hydro.

 

[goingrey]

You have just had plain water in your rez for a full week?

 

[Creeperpark]

That should be an easy fix if you give more details.

 

[healthdude38]

Hi,

At first glance, it looks like a calcium issue.

That's mainly because the shotgun pattern of the damage; the fact that it is on the higher leaves and not lower (which would have made it a Phosphorus issue); the fact that it's in flower.

There even is a product called Calcium Kick that is recommended for early flowering.

However... without knowing the pH, the EC or PPM (with scale, 500 or 700 for instance), the nutrients used and the growing style (hydro, coco, soil, organics), I can't say if it is a calcium deficiency or a lockout.

I agree the rusty spots are a symptom of Calcium deficiency (very advanced). And judging by the general colour of the plant and burned tips, it is most probably caused by a lockout from overfeeding.

You say you are on week 7, so depending on the genetics, if it's a short flowering strain I would give plain water with low amounts of Ca. Always with the correct pH.

@TanzanianMagic DWC is hydro.

You have just had plain water in your rez for a full week?

That should be an easy fix if you give more details.

that's what I was thinking at first, nute burn. I've been trying to flush the plant but I'm realising that with no nutrients in the water the PH fluctuates too much.. I just went and took a measurement and the ph is slightly above 7. Yesterday when I corrected it, it was 5.6.

So everyday since I'm flushing, when I go check, the PH is always out of range and gets too high. I just corrected it again today, later in the day I'm going to check the PH to see how it has changed throughout the day. But basically the plant got worse since I'm flushing.

DWC is a hydro style of growing. And I'm using GH 3 part nutrients only. Kiss method for now. I dont measure EC yet, im planning on buying an EC meter soon

 

[TanzanianMagic]

that's what I was thinking at first, nute burn. I've been trying to flush the plant but I'm realising that with no nutrients in the water the PH fluctuates too much.. I just went and took a measurement and the ph is slightly above 7. Yesterday when I corrected it, it was 5.6.

So everyday since I'm flushing,

What's there to flush in hydro?

when I go check, the PH is always out of range and gets too high. I just corrected it again today, later in the day I'm going to check the PH to see how it has changed throughout the day. But basically the plant got worse since I'm flushing.

DWC is a hydro style of growing. And I'm using GH 3 part nutrients only. Kiss method for now. I dont measure EC yet, im planning on buying an EC meter soon

You should most definitely get an EC meter. In hydro and coco it's indispensable. Even in organic growing you want to know the concentration of nutrients that go into the plant and the runoff, when nutrient deficiencies show up.

You should also look at the water quality. If you let the water stand next to the plants for a day or more, the chlorine in it will evaporate, and both lower the EC and pH.

 

[healthdude38]

The plant is looking worse everyday

Just went in the room and took some pictures before lights went out..

PH is in range, I gave it some cal/mag

I cleaned the reservoir and put only fresh pH'd water in it 2 days ago.

I cant measure the tenperature of the water but it feels cold to the touch, but its not too cold

The other plants are looking OK I guess.. I can see some brown spots here and there but nothing major.

I'm posting some images of my other plants too

Here are the other plants:

 

[Creeperpark]

Its looks like a water issue to me. What kind of water are you using? When you say you pHd the water what do you mean?

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Salts are too high.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

PH is in range, I gave it some cal/mag

You're fishing.

BTW, damage has been done. The old leaves are history. Just grow it out to harvest best you can and write it up to an education.

Good luck,
Uncle Ben

 

[Ca++]

I'm going

Hi,

At first glance, it looks like a calcium issue.

That's mainly because the shotgun pattern of the damage; the fact that it is on the higher leaves and not lower (which would have made it a Phosphorus issue); the fact that it's in flower.

There even is a product called Calcium Kick that is recommended for early flowering.

However... without knowing the pH, the EC or PPM (with scale, 500 or 700 for instance), the nutrients used and the growing style (hydro, coco, soil, organics), I can't say if it is a calcium deficiency or a lockout.

I'm going to question the P part of that. My question regards if lower leaves showing these signs have been pulled off. While I do see it on upper one's, I'm not really seeing older leaves below. The tip die back isn't quite as pronounced as I would expect from low P, but we do have the dark green.

I'm not quite ready to rule out P. Though I suspect high feed in general is the better idea, and while it's showing as Ca, it's too late to be correcting that now. So perhaps it's not sensible to pursue that, even if 90% sure.

Run-off figures might be a good guide here.

Pics were loading as I typed, that promote the over-feed idea. The last three don't say anything else, but the early one's tell a less clear story.

 

[goingrey]

Going on plain water for days was a huge overreaction to the initial issue of slight overfeeding and what is surely causing the problems. In hydro you always need to have nutrients mixed in your water. Should have just used a little bit less than what was causing the burn. Hydro is not like soil where the medium can store food, certainly not DWC.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Going on plain water for days was a huge overreaction to the initial issue of slight overfeeding and what is surely causing the problems.

Yep. Trying to over-correct the problem is not the right approach once the "aw shit" has happened. Instead a light application of a hydro food like Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro, my fave, would be correct. 1/2 tsp/gallon.

For those not familiar with DG, that one part food provides 16 essential elements - macro, secondary and micros. Been using it for 40 years. It's also my favorite orchid food (epiphytes), bromeliads and pineapples.

Uncle Ben

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

And I'm using GH 3 part nutrients only. Kiss method for now.

Exactly what does that mean? How much, how often? Total NPK and Micros in your applications?

Info like this would help a lot.

Just a thought to those who like "kewl challenges", this is where soil is a lot more forgiving and easy peasy. A 3 gallon pot of soil with about a TB of Osmocote 15-9-12, 5-6 month scratched into the top inch of backfill and all you have to do is water and let it go until harvest. Excellent results are predictable every time and you get peace of mind not worrying about it.

Uncle Ben

 

[DcSantos]

looks like K locked up your calcium and magnesium . it happened to me in coco. overfeed them with pk13/14 and had same problem as yours. don't know in hydro but the leaves looked exactly the same on my plants in coco. did you give them pK additives ? maybe you gave them too much like I gave them that time when I had the problem..

 

[FletchF.Fletch]

What measure per gallon or liter are you using for your 3 part GH nutes?

Are you experiencing the same ph fluctuations in your res with nuted water as you have been this week using just ph'ed water? also tap, well, rain, or ro?

 

[healthdude38]

Its looks like a water issue to me. What kind of water are you using? When you say you pHd the water what do you mean?

I'm using tap water, I live in Spain so I don't know what quality of water you guys have but our tap water is safe to drink so it's also safe for the plants.. of course RO would be better and cleaner but I don't have that right now.

When I say I Ph'd the water it means I adjusted it to the right PH 5.8- 6.1 is what I aim for

 

[healthdude38]

I'm going

I'm going to question the P part of that. My question regards if lower leaves showing these signs have been pulled off. While I do see it on upper one's, I'm not really seeing older leaves below. The tip die back isn't quite as pronounced as I would expect from low P, but we do have the dark green.

I'm not quite ready to rule out P. Though I suspect high feed in general is the better idea, and while it's showing as Ca, it's too late to be correcting that now. So perhaps it's not sensible to pursue that, even if 90% sure.

Run-off figures might be a good guide here.

Pics were loading as I typed, that promote the over-feed idea. The last three don't say anything else, but the early one's tell a less clear story.

The plants were definitely overfed! But also I gave the plants way too much light.

 

[healthdude38]

Going on plain water for days was a huge overreaction to the initial issue of slight overfeeding and what is surely causing the problems. In hydro you always need to have nutrients mixed in your water. Should have just used a little bit less than what was causing the burn. Hydro is not like soil where the medium can store food, certainly not DWC.

Hum I understand. But still the plants are still not showing a sign of flushing.. usually the leaves should be turning yellow but I don't see a change in the leaves, and they are flushing for 2 weeks now.. tomorrow I will add nutrients at half the strenght