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Can i start LST? also another pair of questions
- Thread starter Cannatema
- Start date
al70
Well-known member
not sure if it is thrips canna but if it is try this
Thrips
Thrips are small, fast-moving insects with wings.
They rasp, or grate the marijuana leaves open, and suck the sap out.
Thrips prefer flowering tops, and fresh, young leaves.
Affected leaves have shiny, silvery spots. This is caused by the thrips sucking the chlorophyll out of the leaves.
In spite of the fact that they're small, you can see them marching in columns on an infested plant.
Solution: Thrips can be fought with your favorite insecticide. Or predatory insects, the thrips' natural enemy is Amblyseius cucumeris.
A thrip problem can be solved basically the same way as aphids. My favorite way to get rid of them is misting your plants in a solution made of 1 part SM90, 5 parts water.
You'll want to do this when the lights are about to go off(or else the leaves will get burned). do they have legs ? wings ? or just crawlers ?
Thrips
Thrips are small, fast-moving insects with wings.They rasp, or grate the marijuana leaves open, and suck the sap out.
Thrips prefer flowering tops, and fresh, young leaves.
Affected leaves have shiny, silvery spots. This is caused by the thrips sucking the chlorophyll out of the leaves.
In spite of the fact that they're small, you can see them marching in columns on an infested plant.
Solution: Thrips can be fought with your favorite insecticide. Or predatory insects, the thrips' natural enemy is Amblyseius cucumeris.
A thrip problem can be solved basically the same way as aphids. My favorite way to get rid of them is misting your plants in a solution made of 1 part SM90, 5 parts water.
You'll want to do this when the lights are about to go off(or else the leaves will get burned). do they have legs ? wings ? or just crawlers ?
the probelm is that here in italy i have no idea where to find those, i'll do a search though, thanks!
al70
Well-known member
Spider Mites
Spider mites (also called spidermites) are not insects but are more closely related to spiders.
Read complete tutorial here:
http://www.growweedeasy.com/how-to-get-rid-of-spider-mites
These arachnids have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a single, oval body region.
Most spider mites have the ability to produce a fine silk webbing. Spider mites are very tiny, being less than 1/50 inch (0.4mm) long when adults.
Spider mites have tiny mouthparts modified for piercing individual plant cells and removing the contents. This results in tiny yellow or white speckles.
When many of these feeding spots occur near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage of a plant becomes bronzed, it often drops prematurely.
Heavily infested plants may be discolored, stunted or even killed.
Web producing spider mites may coat the foliage with the fine silk which collects dust and looks dirty. Spider mite species seem to be warm weather or cool weather active pests.
The two spotted, European red, honeylocust, and oak spider mites do best in dry, hot summer weather. The spruce and southern red spider mites do best in cool spring and fall weather.
All spider mites go through the same stages of development. Adult females usually lay eggs on their host plants.
The eggs hatch in days to weeks into the first stage, called a larva. Larvae are round bodied and have only three pairs of legs. The larvae feed for a few days, seek a sheltered spot to rest and then molt into the first nymphal stage. The first nymph now has four pairs of legs.
The first nymphs feed a few days, rest and molt into the second nymph. The second nymphs feed, rest and molt into the adult stage.
The males are usually the size of the second nymph and have pointed abdomens. The females have rounded abdomens and are the largest mites present. Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite over winters as adult females resting in protected places.
This cannabis leaf shows the first signs of a spider mite infestation: dozens of tiny yellow spots.
Click for a closer view
Solution: Early detection of spider mites, before damage is noticed, is VERY important.
The tiny spider mites can be detected only by a full and thorough leaf inspection (on both sides of the leaf). If you find Spider Mites you must act fast and hit them hard.
The thing about spider mites is they are very quick to take over your plant, and even quicker to evolve and adapt to whatever methods you are using to try to kill them. They will soon develop resistance to almost any method you use to get rid of them.
If you have problems with spider mites, keep a constant and varied offence for the best chance at success.
If you already have an infestation, start hitting them hard with something that will kill them on contact.
Follow up in 2-3 days with something different that kills their eggs as well as a different method to kill the remaining adults (these ones will already be more resistant to your original method).
Repeat those two step at least one more time to ensure that you have really cleaned out your grow room.
Shake the plant, then kill the spider mites with something that kills them on contact, like:
I tend to avoid chemical sprays, or miticides with Abamectin or lindane because these are harmful to humans.
There are also insect predators that can help in providing some CONTROL but this does not mean 100% eradication. The insect predators can help to control spidermites if your infestation is out of control and chemical sprays are not your thing.
Spider Mite Prevention - The Clean Grow Room
Now it's all about prevention.
If you've had spider mites in the past, chances are you are unintentionally doing something to encourage or attract them.
There are many preventative products such as sprays or neem oil, which make plants less tasty to annoying spidermites. However, these should only be used to supplement good practices.
The most important aspect of spider mite (or any marijuana pest) prevention is a CLEAN GROW ROOM.
Spider mites (also called spidermites) are not insects but are more closely related to spiders.Read complete tutorial here:
http://www.growweedeasy.com/how-to-get-rid-of-spider-mites
These arachnids have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a single, oval body region.
Most spider mites have the ability to produce a fine silk webbing. Spider mites are very tiny, being less than 1/50 inch (0.4mm) long when adults.
Spider mites have tiny mouthparts modified for piercing individual plant cells and removing the contents. This results in tiny yellow or white speckles.
When many of these feeding spots occur near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage of a plant becomes bronzed, it often drops prematurely.
Heavily infested plants may be discolored, stunted or even killed.
Web producing spider mites may coat the foliage with the fine silk which collects dust and looks dirty. Spider mite species seem to be warm weather or cool weather active pests.
The two spotted, European red, honeylocust, and oak spider mites do best in dry, hot summer weather. The spruce and southern red spider mites do best in cool spring and fall weather.
All spider mites go through the same stages of development. Adult females usually lay eggs on their host plants.
The eggs hatch in days to weeks into the first stage, called a larva. Larvae are round bodied and have only three pairs of legs. The larvae feed for a few days, seek a sheltered spot to rest and then molt into the first nymphal stage. The first nymph now has four pairs of legs.
The first nymphs feed a few days, rest and molt into the second nymph. The second nymphs feed, rest and molt into the adult stage.
The males are usually the size of the second nymph and have pointed abdomens. The females have rounded abdomens and are the largest mites present. Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite over winters as adult females resting in protected places.
This cannabis leaf shows the first signs of a spider mite infestation: dozens of tiny yellow spots.
Click for a closer view
Solution: Early detection of spider mites, before damage is noticed, is VERY important.
The tiny spider mites can be detected only by a full and thorough leaf inspection (on both sides of the leaf). If you find Spider Mites you must act fast and hit them hard.
The thing about spider mites is they are very quick to take over your plant, and even quicker to evolve and adapt to whatever methods you are using to try to kill them. They will soon develop resistance to almost any method you use to get rid of them.
If you have problems with spider mites, keep a constant and varied offence for the best chance at success.
If you already have an infestation, start hitting them hard with something that will kill them on contact.
Follow up in 2-3 days with something different that kills their eggs as well as a different method to kill the remaining adults (these ones will already be more resistant to your original method).
Repeat those two step at least one more time to ensure that you have really cleaned out your grow room.
Shake the plant, then kill the spider mites with something that kills them on contact, like:
- A bleach solution (1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 gallon of 95°F, pH balanced, water in a spray bottle.)
- Alcohol and water mixed togther will also kill the bugs on contact and shouldn't hurt the plant as long as the solution contains at least 30% water.
- SM-90 mixed with water (1 part SM-90 to 5 parts water) kills spider mites on contact and is organic (it even smells good!)
- Neem Oil works in a similar way to SM-90, though doesn't smell as nice
I tend to avoid chemical sprays, or miticides with Abamectin or lindane because these are harmful to humans.
There are also insect predators that can help in providing some CONTROL but this does not mean 100% eradication. The insect predators can help to control spidermites if your infestation is out of control and chemical sprays are not your thing.
Spider Mite Prevention - The Clean Grow Room
Now it's all about prevention.
If you've had spider mites in the past, chances are you are unintentionally doing something to encourage or attract them.
There are many preventative products such as sprays or neem oil, which make plants less tasty to annoying spidermites. However, these should only be used to supplement good practices.
The most important aspect of spider mite (or any marijuana pest) prevention is a CLEAN GROW ROOM.
- Never move other plants from the outside world into your grow room - this is the most common way people get spider mites. If you get a clone or plant, keep that plant away from your other plants in quarantine for at least a couple weeks to ensure it has no bugs. Get a handheld microscope and use it to look for bugs on new plants, too.
- No old dead leaves in your grow room at any time - you must collect old leaves regularly and completely remove them from your growing space. It doesn't count if you put them in a neat pile or trash can in the corner, you need to keep dead plant matter out of your grow room
- Make sure that you or anyone who comes into your contact space is clean (don't ever walk into your grow room directly from outside)
- No
i'm quite sure they are thrips, white wormlike larvae, sluglike trails are the indicators. They say to treat them with some products but i don't think i can find them here in Milan.
I could get those shipped but i have not residence where i live and there is no doorkeep so i can't have them sent here, i can only do that at my parents house and it could raise some questions
( i am trying to find house remedies or if i can let them go for those 3 weeks i have left.
I could get those shipped but i have not residence where i live and there is no doorkeep so i can't have them sent here, i can only do that at my parents house and it could raise some questions
( i am trying to find house remedies or if i can let them go for those 3 weeks i have left.some update:
i've spreaded neem oil on the leaf (leaf by leaf, was a nightmare) to avoid spraying the flowers.
Right now the little white worms and the foiliar damage is under control, they are still there but they are not more than they were 3 days ago.
Crossing finger here, do that too for me ;D
i've spreaded neem oil on the leaf (leaf by leaf, was a nightmare) to avoid spraying the flowers.
Right now the little white worms and the foiliar damage is under control, they are still there but they are not more than they were 3 days ago.
Crossing finger here, do that too for me ;D
