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Can i run 5500w off that panel?

rives

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That doesn't answer your question - all that they are addressing is what it will take to feed the lighting. Perhaps you could request a detailed schematic of how the controller is wired.
 
Hello, once more their answer was not so helpful....

This is what i sent them: "Thank you very much for your answer. Unfortunately, it does not cover my question.

I want to know whether i can connect your controller with a female plug that is rated for 25A, that has cables rated for 25A, that is run off one 25A breaker. Meaning, if i will face a problem by the increased amperage of my breaker going to your controller that has 16A relays. Could you provide me with a detailed schematic of how the controller is wired? That would be very nice of you."

This is what they answered: "I think I do not understand your question well, I maybe have to advise to use our timer boxes as they are made, if you have a Chucko 1x16A socket to connect it to a normal wall socket. If you have CEE16A 3x16A to connect it to the correct CEE socket.

For all kind of changes I can not give advice, you have to ask a electric graduated specialist, he will also be responsible if some thing happen!"

Seems to me i should not take the risk and run less bulbs...Fuck, i wanted to try it since my ventilation allows it :(.

I find it odd that they can't ask someone from their company who knows his stuff (because obviously, from the name of the sender and her way of talking, she is just a person responsible for the e-mails) and transfer me his/her answer.
 

hazyfontazy

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Just looking at the panel, it doesn't seem like it would be broken up that way. Perhaps it's not the case, but it seems like the two breakers on the left would be fed by the 40a main on the left, and the breakers on the right would be fed by the 40a main on the right. I've never seen a panel like that, so I could be way off base.

.


,,,the switch on the right is rcd protection
 
Hello! Does the rcd protection help me in my case? I mean, it would be possible to connect the timer with the 16A relays to the 25A breaker, or it has nothing to do with that?
 

rives

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An RCD (GFCI on this side of the pond) is to detect low-level current flow that isn't returning to the breaker from which it is sourced. They are designed to keep people from being electrocuted by detecting current that is flowing to ground rather than coming back on the path that it is supposed to.

No, it won't help with what you need.
 
Hey bro!I contacted them again (i've busted their balls a bit :p) and they told me that the relays are provided to them by a Slovenian company called ISKRA.

I looked into Iskra's site and i beieve i found the pdf abou the relay used in g systems timer box (the controller i am looking at).

This is their site http://www.iskra-releji.si/index.php/relay

(for anyone interested)

and this is the relay i believe is incorporated into the controller (the only 16A relay i could find in their site):

Could you please look at it and tell me if it provides any info about protection of the fuses? I looked at it a bit, of course i did not understand anything from the diagram and such.

Thank you so fucking much :tiphat:
 

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  • TRK28_6.pdf
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rives

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There is no fusing included with the relays - they are simply a VERY small, printed circuit board-mount relay that is wholly inappropriate for this purpose. That relay could be used to drive a larger, more robust relay, but that is the only way that I would use it. Ballasts are one of the most difficult loads to switch, and those relays are not going to last very long even if everything else in the circuit remains healthy. If there is a problem, the relays will become the fuse and will be blown clear off the board.

Find another controller.

The link below is the relay that I usually recommend for use in a light controller. Take a look at the difference.....

http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...n-Style,_40A_(AD-PR40_Series)/AD-PR40-2C-120A
 
Hey bro, thanks for the recommendation but unfortunately the link is not opening! I assume this product you suggested is available in US only. For the love of God i cannot find a contactor with 25A Relays in Europe! Wtf?! Its like those things dont exist here!

Do you think its worth it to make a contactor on my own? I found a tutorial in another site. Its for a 400w but i think i could adjust it to my situation.
 

rives

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The only commercially-available light controller that I've ever seen that fully met the electrical code and I would consider safe to use was the "Ezi-Grow" that I mentioned earlier. If you have any degree of mechanical aptitude, it is almost invariably cheaper and safer to build your own.

If you feed a high-capacity double-pole relay with your existing 25a circuit, and then take the relay output and power a small sub-panel, you can safely split the circuit for your lights with the breakers in the sub-panel.

This relay is almost identical to the one in the above link, hopefully this link will work for you. These are the type that I recommend for lighting control.

http://www.grainger.com/product/MAG...m/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/6CUT5_AS01?$smthumb$
 
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