Can I do anything with this plug? 30A plug

[ItsGrowTime]

Thanks for all the input and thoughts. I cant do anything with the plug until the current grow is done but it will definitely come in handy next one. Im going *bigger* and will be doing a complete re-do of my room (around 64sqft) and this will come in handy. Keep a look out for my "64sqft....what should I do with it?" thread. I'd love the input.

Shame we lost ballastman

 

[ItsGrowTime]

I just ran across this product and it is probably a better solution if you don't want to hassle with an electrician and running new lines and all. Its on sale at a decent price too. I might order one once some money frees up. Gives options with both 120 and 240 capability.

http://www.cheaphydroponics.com/cart/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=14

 

[Guest]

Ballastman gets frustrated sometimes with the BS lol,but he's never far from this forum.The thing I do not like about these units is I wouldnt put multiple 1K fixtures on a digital timer,no way.May work for awhile,maybe not but for 1K fixtures intermatic "hot water heater style" timers are the only way to go.If you can intergrate that setup with a WH 40 or T-103 it would be mucho better.

 

[Guest]

oops wrong thread lol

 

[EZB581]

oops wrong thread lol

It's OK Smilin bob. These things happen the closer You get to half a century old! I'm getting "real" close to half a century old so .This is for all You Whipper Snappers out there who think 50 is over the hill!
Anyway, the intermatic T104 timer I used is missing the guard that covers the wire connects. I want to fashion a cover out of plexiglass or such. Could I use material from a tuperware container maybe? I figure the idea is set it a bit off the contacts instead right against them.

 

[ItsGrowTime]

Ballastman gets frustrated sometimes with the BS lol,but he's never far from this forum.The thing I do not like about these units is I wouldnt put multiple 1K fixtures on a digital timer,no way.May work for awhile,maybe not but for 1K fixtures intermatic "hot water heater style" timers are the only way to go.If you can intergrate that setup with a WH 40 or T-103 it would be mucho better.

Hey sideshow bob,
Do you think 600w digis would be as much of a problem? I was thinking 3x600w, maybe a 400w magnetic and the 120v accessories (pumps, fans, etc). Do you think 600s would be as problematic with the digital timer?

 

[EZB581]

OK, I used a plastic tupperware lid to fashion a cover plate. I cut it down to fit snug yet not conflict with the timer wheel & trippers. Score the plastic with a utility knife 1st. It tends to crack if You go at it with scissors.
Thanks again to GrowTime for the highjack!

 

[Guest]

Good thinking EZ,I doubt you'd have much problem with 1.8K its just for higher wattage plug-in's should b avoided.People do use them at high wattages,scary.They are mainly rated in amps resistive"R" try and get one with an amp inductive rating "I",they are made specifically for motors and HID's

 

[EZB581]

Lots of great info on the intermatic timers lately. So You guys say no more then 4k is considered safe. I used the dryer plug in for the time being. I didn't want anything permanent as my setup evolves. I run 3k at the moment. My next step will be another 1k to the mix.
I used an#8 gauge cable that has four wires,3 insulated wires & a ground. Is the term "3pole" correct? Anyway I'm under the impression that I can expand my power needs with this "3pole" stuff. Meaning, I can setup a sub panel And have both 240 & 110 service ,etc. I'm not looking for any specific info here so rest easy. Just wondering if I'm on the right track.

 

[MTF-Sandman]

Lots of great info on the intermatic timers lately. So You guys say no more then 4k is considered safe. I used the dryer plug in for the time being. I didn't want anything permanent as my setup evolves. I run 3k at the moment. My next step will be another 1k to the mix.
I used an#8 gauge cable that has four wires,3 insulated wires & a ground. Is the term "3pole" correct? Anyway I'm under the impression that I can expand my power needs with this "3pole" stuff. Meaning, I can setup a sub panel And have both 240 & 110 service ,etc. I'm not looking for any specific info here so rest easy. Just wondering if I'm on the right track.

Substitute the word "conductor" for "pole" and you're dead on.

Poles are basically the hot legs...

And yes, you can run 120v & 240v off a 3 conductor feed with a subpanel as well.

 

[EZB581]

Thanks, "3 conductor" is the right term.

 

[Guest]

A good way to remember is to count all current carrying conductors including the neutral,the ground is the only non-current carrying conductor.Black red white and green would be three conductor,(more commonly referred to as 3 wire)Black red blue white and green would be a 4 wire or 4 conductor.Just remember the neutral though grounded is a current carrying conductor and under the right circumstances,will give you a shock that would make lineside(hot wire)jealous lol

 

[EZB581]

Got it! "3 wire" is the common term. I have phobia with electricity! Last thing I want is to blow out my good pair of shoes!

 

[EZB581]

Hope You "masters of Spark" will help me out one more time.
Here's the 8 gauge 3 wire, timer & receptacles at the room end.


Heres the other end at the dryer power supply



I'd "like" to install switch so I can direct the power to either the lights or the dryer. My poor old back pains me when I have to reach behind the dryer to swap the plugs. The 240 supply goes to the switch, then to, two recepticles one for the room the other for the dryer. I won't run more than 4 k's thru this to the room. If this is practical, what type of switch am I looking for? Thanks for any advise.

 

[EZB581]

I dug up this old thread instead of starting another as it's basically the same topic. I'm looking at another light with a Sunsystems (SS1) ballast. The disscription states ,You can change from 120 to 240 volts by just changing the power chord. I changed my other ballasts to 240 by changing the wires inside the ballast & used the standard 120v, chord. Can I do the same with this SS1 ballast or is it different than most other ballasts? I think they just want me to buy another chord with the 240 volt plug. Just wanted to be sure. Thanks

 

[EcoNepenthe]

Its an easy project converting a 220/30amp to run 110 outlets. Here's some pics.
Kudos to AN med forum, RichieRich, Hagen and others for this project. Basically, converted a 220/30amp to a 110/20/15amp subpanel.
At first I thought it was going to be a problem. Don't like f*cking w/electricity, sh*t kills w/o warning...no do overs. Anyway, after reading RichieRichs needs thread, got the parts, $30 bucks for load sharer panel. $3/4 bucks for the breakers ea, 10/3 wire...$70 bucks, misc bucks for outlets, etc.
Read, re-read instructions, got subpanel setup, ran wire, smoked a phatty, setup flashlight pointing at elec. panel, flipped the main breaker, disconnected red/black, netural and ground.......SWEATING LIKE A PIG, SHAKING LIKE ALL HELL, attached 10/3 red to where 30amp red went, etc. Flipped mainbreaker....no snap, no crackel, or pop. PHEW. Was tempted to call my girlfriend cell, keep her on the line while I did this....didn't nned too. All went smoothly. No shorts, no hot to the touch wires. Kewl!!! Upstairs plugged fan into outlets....IT'S ALIVE!!! Works perfectly.
So, it is quite easy to run a subpanel off a 30amp/220 line.

Elec panel 100 amp.

After adding subpanel/load sharer

subpanell/loadsharer in GR


Well, that's my 2 cents. Hope it helps someone.

Success w/ya grow
Stay safe.

Eco

Watch em grow!!!