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Can I do anything with this plug? 30A plug

D

DB2004

You can wire your ballasts for 240 volts, get a 2 or 3 gang box with 4 to 6 outlets and plug your ballasts into that, then put a dryer plug on the end and plug it into the 30 amp receptacle.

Best Regards

Db2004
 
G

Guest

Take out the receptacle and mount an intermatic WH40 right over the hole,come out of the timer with 6 inches of wire to your receptacle box holding the receptacles.Second thread where I suggested this timer,mines been going over 5 years now with 3 1K vertizontals without a hint of burring contacts
 
G

Guest

For safety sake before mounting timer make good and sure the wire is #10 AWG,it should be on a 2 pole 30 amp breaker or less likely a 25,no smaller.Unfortunately you cant just assume the wireman knew his shit.If there is a neutral wire present in the circuit wire nut it off in the panel and in the elec. box,it wont be needed for the lighting circuit.
 
G

Guest

Another option would be to mount a 30A subpanel over the hole instead of the timer,in this case the neutral is needed(if present).Then you can come out with a 2 pole 30A 10 wire circuit to your WH40 and also run a 120V circuit for other small 120V appliances.Note you only have 4 maybe 5 amps max to use before overloading the circuit,you dont want to exceed 24 or 25 amps total
 
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Guest

ItsGrowTime said:
I have a 30A 125/250 dryer plug in my growroom thats obviously not hooked up to a dryer. This is the one:
http://www.levitonproducts.com/catalog/model_5054.htm?sid=B32D8B37387F6248104425C0A0A1941F&pid=1208

Since Im basically electrically stupid is there anything I can do with it to help my grow room? Like run lights or anything? Im reaching my capacity on the regular 120v 15a circuit. Thoughts?
It's grow time, if I may add a question here. I also want to use my dryer receptacle to run up to 4 1k lights. I can change the ballast to 240volts by changing the wiring .The breaker is 30 amps. I have 8 awg wire and an intermatic T104 timer from a water heater. However the ballast's power chords have the standard 3 prong plugs. Can I use 110 volt receptacles safely? I "think" I can with the ballast drawing 4 to 5 amps. Thanks!
 
G

Guest

Yes you can,I do and have for 6 years.When I safe "safely",I mean it is electrically safe to use 20 amp commercial grade 120 volt receptacle on a 240V circuit.The only way it is unsafe is if you plug a 120V appliance into it,if all receptacles are taken up though as in the case of 4K,that shouldnt be a problem.EDIT To elaborate a little,an electrical splice will always be the weakest part of an electrical system even when done correctly.Thats not to say splicing on 240V receptacles adds any danger,it really doesnt if done correctly,but this fact and the fact that you get to keep your original 120V plug if you ever go back to 120V,plus the added savings in receptacle costs adds up to me doing it that way.Others may disagree and I understand,I wouldnt ever suggest something electrical like this though unless I have it in my own home,which I do.How's that for a run on sentence lol.EDIT Also they dont make duplex 240V receptacles so you cant them all 4 in 4 by 4 inch metal box,unless they've come out with them in the last five years lol
 
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G

Guest

Thanks Ballastman! I totally agree with You on stressing the need to be absolutely sure before doing electrical work. I know just anough about electricity to get in trouble. I have gotten sound advice backed up with a clear explaination! Thanks again GrowTime!
 
G

Guest

Glad I could help it doesnt matter which hot wire you put on the silver teminal either,just make sure your ground is hooked up.Use good 20 amp commercial or industrial grade 120V receptacles also,none of this 15A residential poo poo
 
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ItsGrowTime

gets some
Veteran
Np cracker. Glad my thread could help ya out.

Thanks for the replies guys. Id love to take advantage of the circuit and this gives me a good starting point. Would it be safe to say that this dryer plug (circuit?) is isolated from the rest of outlets (120v/15a circuit) in the same room? Are dryer plugs usually on their own circuit?
 
G

Guest

It should have it's own dedicated breaker, At least mine does. 30 amp. It should be listed on the inside of the main circuit box. I was up LATE last night looking for this very same info. There is some good info here on the subject .
 
G

Guest

Yes the dryer circuit will be dedicated and be on a 2 pole 30 amp breaker,it will either be 3 wire( 2 hots and a ground) or 4 wire(2 hots aneutral and a ground)
 
G

Guest

So the two hots go to 1 & 3 in the timer ,the 3rd wire (ground )goes to the ground screw on the timer. 2 & 4 comes out of the timer. #2 goes to one side of the recepticle & #4 goes to the other side? Then a 3rd wire(ground) goes from the ground screw on the recepticle to the ground screw on the timer? I realize You guys have been over this again & again. If this isn't right then give me a :bat: and I'll hire an electrician.
 
G

Guest

:woohoo:
Ok, I got it all installed per directions , double checked & checked again that all wires were in the right place & all connections were sound. I plugged it in, switched the timer on & off and have power at the recepticles ,per my hand held voltage indicator. I "assume" when switching the ballast from 110 to 240, I just exchange the 110 wire with 240 wire (they are clearly marked). There aren't any other wires in the ballast that need changing. Also the recepticles are mounted in a metal box. Do I need to ground this as well? Thanks Guys for sharing your knowledge & patience. PM your way GrowTime.
 
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MTF-Sandman

OG Refugee
Veteran
cracker said:
I "assume" when switching the ballast from 110 to 240, I just exchange the 110 wire with 240 wire (they are clearly marked). There aren't any other wires in the ballast that need changing. Also the recepticles are mounted in a metal box. Do I need to ground this as well? Thanks Guys for sharing your knowledge & patience. PM your way GrowTime.

Yup, just change the hot lead to the 240v lead in the ballast. When used in 240v mode, it will use the common for the other hot lead.

Any metal enclosure needs a ground attached to it. If the recepticles are all attached to a grounded enclosure via metal conduit, you don't need to individually ground them.
 
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