After reading the forum you have to feed your plants a higher ppm or EC? I Just installed a 10 burner and was wondering why my plants started having deficiencies I have never seen before. I have been doing the same nute temp humidity lights for the past 3 years and never had a problem until I recently implemented co@. If anyone could confirm that I would really appreciate it. Thanks
Nighttime co2 doesn’t affect them at all.
Dont understand the question,sorrysome of you guys have CO2 meters ?
Nighttime co2 doesn’t affect them at all.
For the system to work properly you need to increase light intensity,co2,ec and Temp and RH.
Is not just puting CO2 and keep with the same feeding schedule as before, my normal(without CO2) EC at the start of 4th week would be 1.4, am at 2.0 with CO2 but also my normal temp and RH without CO2 was 24ºC.55% with CO2 at this stage of flower am around 28ºC/75%.
If you look at my profile you will see my current grow,there you have info and lots of pics on how I fed and dialed everything else, week by week til today, drop by see if any of that info is useful to you
some of you guys have CO2 meters ?
In just did another test taking into consideration your advice.
My problem was coming from the RH side,first grow with CO2, problem is having the dehum dialed for daytime use at 75% going to night time use with the same setting, was getting very high RH values,plants were noticing it.Thats solved now, since i only have one dehum, i have to manually chage settings for night time use.
Today i tested it with propper dehum settings and no exhaust, plants were ok, but also am giving them 1100 ppm at the stage am in durting day time, they stayed at that level ...a bit higher a bit less
Stil have used the xhaust in the end because i was getting a bit of smell coming out through the entrance door inside my house,it happens sometimes, since i have an inline ozone machine it takes me three minutes to exhaust and renew the air, back in the day it used to be 24/7 ozone and weed smell coming out of my house now is 5 minutes max a day,am happy with that.Usually when I exhaust CO2 level drop,but tghey go back up after a while, mamntaining around 900/1100 ppm with lights off
Hi there mate!Im having a hard to time keeping VPD where it needs to be. Meaning my RH% is always to low which seems like its the opposite problem everyone has.
Hi there mate!
I was ok keeping the RH during day time, but last week i had to put the humidifier on again,am trying to be on the upper side of VPD at 75% and it ain easy either.
Problem is when lights go off,it can go up to 85/90% if your dehum aint ready for it,in my case,my one is 80L per day, but maybe a bit slow reacting.The only way I have found to make it work, is to be ready when the lights are off, dial the dehum to 55% thats makes it work hard those two first hours,once I manage to get the room back to 65%, I dial it again to reach whatever VPD value am after.
Some of the new digital controllers allow you to plug in your AC and Dehum, that way I could have RH settings for day and night, not cheap but very helpful
What kind of controllers are you talking about? Yea I run a quest 208 or 210 something right around there. My RH gets about 65-70% at night. The big problem with my VPD is when the lights are running. My ac takes alot of the humidity out of the air and have even tried adding a humidifier and not much change not really sure what to do. In the daytime my RH is about 55%. Would like it to be around 70%. If you or anyone has any ideas I would really appreciate it.
The controller, as far as I know Trolmaster has modules that allow you to control AC and Dehum, you need a little electric work that I remember to acces the Dehum so you bypass the sensor and use the trolmaster one, I think AC what Trolmaster does is that their module becomes like a remote control it hacks the original one from the machine.
The other one would be Dimlux, but for their controller is only for Dimlux fixtures.
Same problem with RH at lights on, the only way is a humidifier, I have one of those with a floater,it is big, and sometimes i have to use a second humidifier.
Be carefull with very high RH at the bottom of your grow where your pots sit, if you are going for 70% at the canopy best have the bottom well "shaved" with plenty of air, or even fans mooving the air
I was on the 28ºC 75% schedule, but yesterday I had an email reply from an email i sent a while back to Fluence EU recomending 55% RH for this stage of flowering, wich kind of really misplaced me, I thought the idea when at full light intensity 1200 ppf, RH and Temp should also be hight 28ºC/75% so you could bring EC and ppm up, thats what I thought, i replied an answer with more questions . So far plants are OK, but I did have to pull back on EC at 4th week from 2.0 to 1.8 as i could see burn comming, I have also followed the advise from Fluence and i am now at 25ºC 55% since yesterday, looking ok, also found some readings here and there of growers bringing RH and even some ppm down in the last 3 weeks
back when I used CO2 indoors 1200ppm was about what we maxed out at and we ran out rooms in that 82 to 84 farenheit range.
Later I worked a greenhouse application that supplemented CO2 at a much higher rate.
We were taught that a plant in full sunlight is receiving approximately 5000 lumens per square foot. That plant in full sunlight can process about 2000PPM C02 however, ambient CO2 levels outside generally range from 300 to 500PPM depending where one lives.
If you want to drive plants with 1500PPM of CO2 , you will require at lest 3000 Lumens per sq foot.
I was taught that for every 1000 Lumens per square foot , 300PPM CO2 is required with lights 20" from canopy (HID), all things being equal(temp,food , environment ect)
the PAR values will be dictated by the light source you use.
My calculatio.
the PAR values will be dictated by the light source you use.
My calculations were for 1000W metal halide and 1000W HPS Hortilux bulbs
The par value would be different if you were running a gavita type set up and again different with LED. The spectrums and intensity of your light source will dictate the PAR value.
there was no direct correlation between PPM of CO2 and PPM of nutrient.
I use the Lucas Formula which keeps feeds balanced through the whole grow.
Suplemented wit Ca, Mg and Fe depending on plants needs. PPMs of feed at the heaviest feeding plants might have hit 1250ppm but generally staying in the 980 to 1120 range.
Where we supplemented to boost feed intake the most was with foliar sprays
I liked to wake the plants up with ceiling florescents, give them a foliar, wait 1/2 hour and kick the main lights on. Wait another 45 minutes and the first CO2 boost would hit the room.
We ran sealed rooms with minisplit AC and CO2 tanks with timed, flow metered regulators and solenoid. Very simple.