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Can anyone share their CO2 chart for ppm and temps??
- Thread starter pacoclandestino
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pacoclandestino
Member
For the system to work properly you need to increase light intensity,co2,ec and Temp and RH.
Is not just puting CO2 and keep with the same feeding schedule as before, my normal(without CO2) EC at the start of 4th week would be 1.4, am at 2.0 with CO2 but also my normal temp and RH without CO2 was 24ºC.55% with CO2 at this stage of flower am around 28ºC/75%.
If you look at my profile you will see my current grow,there you have info and lots of pics on how I fed and dialed everything else, week by week til today, drop by see if any of that info is useful to you
pacoclandestino
Member
I give you what I see in my grow room, when lights switch off you are going to get a burst of CO2 and a hike in RH values, coming from 75% with the lights on unless you have a huge mother fucker of a dehum, and I mean huge, to get that room to optimal RH quick so plant transitions from day to night in a nice and controlled manner.
Since I had my doubts with this exhausting or not subject, and am new to CO2 I did last week an experiment, no exhaust in a room just switched off, after half-hour leaves drop and the plant gets mushy, you can see her having a hard time breathing, takes her a while to get back to her normal self.
The next day, 15 minutes after the lights went off I switch the exhaust on and blast the dehum, allowing it to cool down to 23ºC 60/65% RH. What I want is to take humidity out mainly but I always end up depleting some of the room CO2 to 500/600 ppm give or take, once Humidity is right I switch off the exhaust and keep the dehum blasting, half-hour later or so CO2 is back to 900ppm and it keeps going up
To my eyes, the result is noticeable overnight, and of course, the excess CO2 doesn't kill them but am sure it doesn't help them either to have a better growth
EDIT:Just in case today i will check the same, but this time I will just blast the dehum will not deplete CO2
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St. Phatty
Active member
some of you guys have CO2 meters ?
pacoclandestino
Member
Dont understand the question,sorry
pacoclandestino
Member
In just did another test taking into consideration your advice.
My problem was coming from the RH side,first grow with CO2, problem is having the dehum dialed for daytime use at 75% going to night time use with the same setting, was getting very high RH values,plants were noticing it.Thats solved now, since i only have one dehum, i have to manually chage settings for night time use.
Today i tested it with propper dehum settings and no exhaust, plants were ok, but also am giving them 1100 ppm at the stage am in durting day time, they stayed at that level ...a bit higher a bit less
Stil have used the xhaust in the end because i was getting a bit of smell coming out through the entrance door inside my house,it happens sometimes, since i have an inline ozone machine it takes me three minutes to exhaust and renew the air, back in the day it used to be 24/7 ozone and weed smell coming out of my house now is 5 minutes max a day,am happy with that.Usually when I exhaust CO2 level drop,but tghey go back up after a while, mamntaining around 900/1100 ppm with lights off
For the system to work properly you need to increase light intensity,co2,ec and Temp and RH.
Is not just puting CO2 and keep with the same feeding schedule as before, my normal(without CO2) EC at the start of 4th week would be 1.4, am at 2.0 with CO2 but also my normal temp and RH without CO2 was 24ºC.55% with CO2 at this stage of flower am around 28ºC/75%.
If you look at my profile you will see my current grow,there you have info and lots of pics on how I fed and dialed everything else, week by week til today, drop by see if any of that info is useful to you
Awesome I did look at your photos and wow they look great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge im just unsure of how much more to feed.
Yea i think that anyone that wants to be efficient and effective have co2 meters especially if they want to save money.
Im having a very hard to time keeping my VPD where it needs to be. Meaning my RH% is always to low which seems like its the opposite problem everyone has.
pacoclandestino
Member
Hi there mate!
I was ok keeping the RH during day time, but last week i had to put the humidifier on again,am trying to be on the upper side of VPD at 75% and it ain easy either.
Problem is when lights go off,it can go up to 85/90% if your dehum aint ready for it,in my case,my one is 80L per day, but maybe a bit slow reacting.The only way I have found to make it work, is to be ready when the lights are off, dial the dehum to 55% thats makes it work hard those two first hours,once I manage to get the room back to 65%, I dial it again to reach whatever VPD value am after.
Some of the new digital controllers allow you to plug in your AC and Dehum, that way I could have RH settings for day and night, not cheap but very helpful
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Hi there mate!
I was ok keeping the RH during day time, but last week i had to put the humidifier on again,am trying to be on the upper side of VPD at 75% and it ain easy either.
Problem is when lights go off,it can go up to 85/90% if your dehum aint ready for it,in my case,my one is 80L per day, but maybe a bit slow reacting.The only way I have found to make it work, is to be ready when the lights are off, dial the dehum to 55% thats makes it work hard those two first hours,once I manage to get the room back to 65%, I dial it again to reach whatever VPD value am after.
Some of the new digital controllers allow you to plug in your AC and Dehum, that way I could have RH settings for day and night, not cheap but very helpful
What kind of controllers are you talking about? Yea I run a quest 208 or 210 something right around there. My RH gets about 65-70% at night. The big problem with my VPD is when the lights are running. My ac takes alot of the humidity out of the air and have even tried adding a humidifier and not much change
not really sure what to do. In the daytime my RH is about 55%. Would like it to be around 70%. If you or anyone has any ideas I would really appreciate it.pacoclandestino
Member
What kind of controllers are you talking about? Yea I run a quest 208 or 210 something right around there. My RH gets about 65-70% at night. The big problem with my VPD is when the lights are running. My ac takes alot of the humidity out of the air and have even tried adding a humidifier and not much change
The controller, as far as I know Trolmaster has modules that allow you to control AC and Dehum, you need a little electric work that I remember to acces the Dehum so you bypass the sensor and use the trolmaster one, I think AC what Trolmaster does is that their module becomes like a remote control it hacks the original one from the machine.
The other one would be Dimlux, but for their controller is only for Dimlux fixtures.
Same problem with RH at lights on, the only way is a humidifier, I have one of those with a floater,it is big, and sometimes i have to use a second humidifier.
Be carefull with very high RH at the bottom of your grow where your pots sit, if you are going for 70% at the canopy best have the bottom well "shaved" with plenty of air, or even fans mooving the air
I was on the 28ºC 75% schedule, but yesterday I had an email reply from an email i sent a while back to Fluence EU recomending 55% RH for this stage of flowering, wich kind of really misplaced me, I thought the idea when at full light intensity 1200 ppf, RH and Temp should also be hight 28ºC/75% so you could bring EC and ppm up, thats what I thought, i replied an answer with more questions
. So far plants are OK, but I did have to pull back on EC at 4th week from 2.0 to 1.8 as i could see burn comming, I have also followed the advise from Fluence and i am now at 25ºC 55% since yesterday, looking ok, also found some readings here and there of growers bringing RH and even some ppm down in the last 3 weeks
Tynehead Tom
Well-known member
back when I used CO2 indoors 1200ppm was about what we maxed out at and we ran out rooms in that 82 to 84 farenheit range.
Later I worked a greenhouse application that supplemented CO2 at a much higher rate.
We were taught that a plant in full sunlight is receiving approximately 5000 lumens per square foot. That plant in full sunlight can process about 2000PPM C02 however, ambient CO2 levels outside generally range from 300 to 500PPM depending where one lives.
If you want to drive plants with 1500PPM of CO2 , you will require at lest 3000 Lumens per sq foot.
I was taught that for every 1000 Lumens per square foot , 300PPM CO2 is required with lights 20" from canopy (HID), all things being equal(temp,food , environment ect)
Later I worked a greenhouse application that supplemented CO2 at a much higher rate.
We were taught that a plant in full sunlight is receiving approximately 5000 lumens per square foot. That plant in full sunlight can process about 2000PPM C02 however, ambient CO2 levels outside generally range from 300 to 500PPM depending where one lives.
If you want to drive plants with 1500PPM of CO2 , you will require at lest 3000 Lumens per sq foot.
I was taught that for every 1000 Lumens per square foot , 300PPM CO2 is required with lights 20" from canopy (HID), all things being equal(temp,food , environment ect)
The controller, as far as I know Trolmaster has modules that allow you to control AC and Dehum, you need a little electric work that I remember to acces the Dehum so you bypass the sensor and use the trolmaster one, I think AC what Trolmaster does is that their module becomes like a remote control it hacks the original one from the machine.
The other one would be Dimlux, but for their controller is only for Dimlux fixtures.
Same problem with RH at lights on, the only way is a humidifier, I have one of those with a floater,it is big, and sometimes i have to use a second humidifier.
Be carefull with very high RH at the bottom of your grow where your pots sit, if you are going for 70% at the canopy best have the bottom well "shaved" with plenty of air, or even fans mooving the air
I was on the 28ºC 75% schedule, but yesterday I had an email reply from an email i sent a while back to Fluence EU recomending 55% RH for this stage of flowering, wich kind of really misplaced me, I thought the idea when at full light intensity 1200 ppf, RH and Temp should also be hight 28ºC/75% so you could bring EC and ppm up, thats what I thought, i replied an answer with more questions
So do you run LED from Fluence then? If so I always thought you were suppose to run hotter to keep the canopy a little warmer since the LED doesn't give off the heat as a HID.
Wow that is awesome makes alot of sense. Do you happen to know what 3000 Lumens is to PAR? When any of you guys ran CO2 indoors how often would the burner kick on? Do you think Co2 PPM should be the same as Nutrient PPM?
Tynehead Tom
Well-known member
the PAR values will be dictated by the light source you use.
My calculations were for 1000W metal halide and 1000W HPS Hortilux bulbs
The par value would be different if you were running a gavita type set up and again different with LED. The spectrums and intensity of your light source will dictate the PAR value.
there was no direct correlation between PPM of CO2 and PPM of nutrient.
I use the Lucas Formula which keeps feeds balanced through the whole grow.
Suplemented wit Ca, Mg and Fe depending on plants needs. PPMs of feed at the heaviest feeding plants might have hit 1250ppm but generally staying in the 980 to 1120 range.
Where we supplemented to boost feed intake the most was with foliar sprays
I liked to wake the plants up with ceiling florescents, give them a foliar, wait 1/2 hour and kick the main lights on. Wait another 45 minutes and the first CO2 boost would hit the room.
We ran sealed rooms with minisplit AC and CO2 tanks with timed, flow metered regulators and solenoid. Very simple.
My calculations were for 1000W metal halide and 1000W HPS Hortilux bulbs
The par value would be different if you were running a gavita type set up and again different with LED. The spectrums and intensity of your light source will dictate the PAR value.
there was no direct correlation between PPM of CO2 and PPM of nutrient.
I use the Lucas Formula which keeps feeds balanced through the whole grow.
Suplemented wit Ca, Mg and Fe depending on plants needs. PPMs of feed at the heaviest feeding plants might have hit 1250ppm but generally staying in the 980 to 1120 range.
Where we supplemented to boost feed intake the most was with foliar sprays
I liked to wake the plants up with ceiling florescents, give them a foliar, wait 1/2 hour and kick the main lights on. Wait another 45 minutes and the first CO2 boost would hit the room.
We ran sealed rooms with minisplit AC and CO2 tanks with timed, flow metered regulators and solenoid. Very simple.
St. Phatty
Active member
just wait 100 years.
Global CO2 is rising at about 3 ppm per year ?
Global CO2 is rising at about 3 ppm per year ?
pacoclandestino
Member
Hi, there mate!! thanks for dropping by with your experience, both posts have great info, will give it a couple of reads, my set up is almost the same to yours, I do exhaust a bit of air out, but is because sometimes my house stinks inside
I have a couple of questions, when at 84ºF what was the RH?
The reason I was going on such a high schedule comes from the fact I have a light that can put 1200 PPF out, and the logic I was following is more light intensity= more EC, more Temp, and more RH+ CO2. I had in mind a max of 1400 ppm when the light was at max, but at the 4th week i realized the plants were not taking much more, did a little wash in some a dropped EC on others, my guess is the max they are going to take is 2.2 (if) very similar to the values you were using. I think SPYDR´s put more light than 1000W HPS? not sure 100%
looks like I will need another crop to see if I understand better what I am doing
I use a Luxometer that was calibrated against a PAR meter and 1200 ppf is somewhere in the region of 50k lux ( In the hottest spot, at the center), but the SPYDR´s are very good at the way they distribute light, so the other plants are getting 48k/43k and values like that. With that intensity not trying to see how far you can go would be rude, that's why by 4th week I was already on
2.0EC.1100ppm.1000ppf.28ºC.75% RH
The reason I was advised to bring RH down to 55/60 is that the plants can get brotitis, powerful reason to bring it down, but this brings sooo many questions again
Thanks again for your help, if you feel drop by my grow diary down bellow, there I publish every week what's going on with the first CO2 enriched high light intensity grow, Am sure I could do with your opinion around there
Tynehead Tom
Well-known member
I run my rooms as close to the Vapor Pressure Deficit Chart as I can.
I use a lung room to condition my grow room air and the CO2 line disperses into the intake from the lung room.
Max temp for CO2 is generally viewed as 86F and at that temperature some growers have a built in temperature sensing shut off on the CO2 tank Solenoid or run to the on off switch of a propane generator.
In rooms capable of achieve max light senarios of 4000lumens below the canopy (rare) which generally only occurs in full sunlight, growers can push the confines and boost CO2 to 2000ppm @90F ….. I have not tried that personally
It's been many years since I worked with CO2 enrichment but may do again one day
If everything runs perfect and your plants are fed and lit well enough to actually make use of that extra CO2. 30% dry yield increases are achievable.
Using CO2 without addressing all other parameters to suit, is a complete waste of time.
I use a lung room to condition my grow room air and the CO2 line disperses into the intake from the lung room.
Max temp for CO2 is generally viewed as 86F and at that temperature some growers have a built in temperature sensing shut off on the CO2 tank Solenoid or run to the on off switch of a propane generator.
In rooms capable of achieve max light senarios of 4000lumens below the canopy (rare) which generally only occurs in full sunlight, growers can push the confines and boost CO2 to 2000ppm @90F ….. I have not tried that personally
It's been many years since I worked with CO2 enrichment but may do again one day
If everything runs perfect and your plants are fed and lit well enough to actually make use of that extra CO2. 30% dry yield increases are achievable.
Using CO2 without addressing all other parameters to suit, is a complete waste of time.
what size is your tanks and how long would they last? mine is hooked uo with natural gas but seems like they kick on alot about every hour,
