What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

California AC Box **Spectacular**

C

cork144

this is the attitude you get when you kids don't listen. Has ANY ONE BUILT A BOX LIKE H DADDY SUGGESTS. No... why.... it brakes ac's simple as that. (I explained why many times earlier)

If you don't wanna learn that's one thing but if you wanna just try to bash people please go find a different thread.

i dont quite understand your logic here, can i have some resources that you will probably have access too where using an AC as it was intended to be used actually causes the AC more damage.

all your evidence sofar has been what you have "experienced", but can i quickly ask somthing?

Have you even built an ac box in the manner hdaddy has been trying to get across to you?

because personally i dont beleave you have, simply by the way you act, sort of reminds me of my 9 year old neace.
 
G

grow nerd

You could also enclose the condenser coil in a container and pump water through it to cool your condenser instead of using a box and ducting air to it replacing what everyone is making in this thread. I'll try that one sometime too.
Hmmm I thought there might be an issue with blowing the compressor if you don't have a TXV valve or something? I recall this issue (suddenly cooling radiator coil w/ water) being discussed in the mister system. Or is this irrelevant if it's constantly (as in, from beginning of unit power-on) water- (or air, or otherwise) cooled and a sudden pressure change doesn't happen?

Also: any issues with running nutes through copper lines? (I think "commercial" chillers have a titanium heat exchanger to avoid corrosion.)
 

SKUNK420

Member
This is totally different that what is being discussed in this thread, but it is something you can make out of a window A/C. And that is a badass chiller. Mine is a 5k btu unit turned chiller for my reservoir. He actually converted his into one that can run very low temperatures, I only run mine at 66f so none of that is needed. Took about 30 minutes and a screwdriver to make.


attachment.php
so you got the evaporator in the coolers correct?
 

smoke1sun

What Goes Around Comes Around. But Am I Comming Or
Veteran
Believe it or not theres actually some good info in this thread, Thanks globel, and hoosierdaddy.

Good link Smokinshogun, and nice pics Squirrelfooker.

Globel dont worry about the rest of the sack riders, who seem to always jump on the guy with the most post count. Suck asses just tryin to fit fit, whoo knows they'll score some free beans. hahahaha

Between the info you and hoosier posted we could easly build a nice a/c box with the benefits of both your ideas.
 
L

lysol

The unit hanging in the window will have all the air flow it needs to work efficiently and as designed. The unit in the box is a question mark because we don't know what the openings are. It matters not what CFM you are pushing/pulling through the box if there isn't the proper cubic feet of air allowed into and out of the box.
You could have a hole 1/4" in diameter and pulling 600 CFM through it, but it would not be near enough cubic feet of air flow to satisfy the unit's needs.
But of course if you have the boxes like yours, it doesn't matter because you have not separated the air flows that demand to be separated. Your unit will never work as designed and will be very inefficient..

You do realize cfm means cubic feat per minute? so 600cfm guarantees there will be 600 cubic feet of flow.

When it hangs in the window the air flows are not separated. I think it matters less on your particular cfm more so on the temperature of the coils themselves, if they are staying cool then great, if not you fucked up. Does separating them keep them much cooler? I'm sure it does and is a smarter way to build it but I can't believe I just read thru all those pages of put downs

Oh and neat thread, dunno if its "spectacular" ( why hype stuff up )
 

hoosierdaddy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Well, yeah...I do actually know what CFM is and what it means, verbatim.
I should have said something like; "have a 600 cfm fan pulling on it, and it would not be near enough cubic feet of air flow to satisfy the unit's needs"

A fan rated at 600cfm means that it will move 600 cubic feet of air per minute in a zero pressure situation...which would mean the fan running with no ducts either end.
When we add ducting, or restrictions of any sort, including choking down the size of the intake orifice, we rob the "volume" of air that the fan can handle. Making the intake orifice smaller effectively lessens the amount of CFM that the fan can move. By increasing the size of the intake orifice area, we can supply up to the amount of air that the fan can move.

On a window AC, we could say that the air flows are not separated, but in practice it really isn't true. The air that is used for the intake, and the air that gets exhausted are not intermingled. The hot air is being forced out the back of the unit, effectively pushing the hot air away from the fresh air intake vents. It is also rising during it's move away from the back of the unit (hot air rises fast) which causes the air to be even further away from the intake flow.
The intake air is of a different temperature, and coming from a different place than where the hot exhaust air is at any given time..so in essence, yes the air flows are separated on a window ac unit.
In a box that surrounds both the intake and exhaust the air is truly not separated, and the hot exhaust air gets a chance to heat up the fresh intake air before it reaches the coils. This is in a nutshell the problem with the asshat box.
 
Great ideas love them... but my situation is a little diferent we arent allowed ac boxes in the windows and to make my matters owrse i live on the first floor.....and as much as i hate leaving my window open all the time i have to becuse its the fresh air source as well as the source i use to push the hot air.....so wht suggestion would you have
 
M

mrdizzle

could you just take the metal shell off the back of an AC and just have a passive intake and a 8in maxfan exhaust, they move tons of air and if the whole units open then it wont have a chance to get hot, I have one 8in max fax cooling 4000w to the touch the bulbs are in vertical cooltubes will tons of bends and different angels so its gotta be strong enough to cool a 2ton a/c?

thanks for any info
 

antimatter

Active member
Veteran
lol this thread is funny, im gonna duct my intakes from outside and exhaust into my house for free heating how bout that now. Hoosier daddy has it right though this global guy is crazy hes not even using foam insulation panels for his box what a noob :noway: :yeahthats :laughing:
 

Rednick

One day you will have to answer to the children of
Veteran
when building a box like H diddlez you will have more issues and problems with your setup. Look at real world scenarios and not what some long fingered child is typing on the inter webz. I have build box's both ways his way and my way. There is a reason I choose the way I build box's. Its my experience. I have actually built these box's he just writes about them and then makes them out of cardboard... look at his gallery .. Remember I actually do this stuff. he just writes about it. And the kid was insulting me so I stopped posting and I think I proved him wrong and explained why many times so I see no need/point trying to educate him further.

Just give it up kid.

Your way is subpar. Separating airflows is the best way to do it. I know phase change and all that, but we are talking about 'removing' heat from the area.

C02 for a tiny room is cheaper than elec, especially at Cali rates.

Only kid here, can't spell.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top